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Thread: E-tek RACING '71 Parts Car Resto

  1. #201
    Ultimate Restorations e-tek's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, although I'm not sure what blue means......
    E-tek Racing and Restorations

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  2. #202
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    Default Glass goes in tomrrow

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    E-tek Racing and Restorations

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  3. #203
    Ultimate Restorations e-tek's Avatar
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    Default GLASS iNSTALLATION

    I use a mobile glass service called Showtime Glass here in Saskatoon because the owner, Chase, does great work and stands behind it. Today he needed his crew to do the work, which I wasn't crazy about, but I learned later it was because he had broken his elbow in a skate boarding accident. He still showed up however, to supervise and lend a (good) hand to make sure it was done to his standards:

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    Cleaning the trim/insert pieces:

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    That'll be it for work on the Z for a while. I wanted to get paint on and the glass in during good weather so that I could work on it in the winter when I'm between other work.

    This will give Dan a chance to get ahead of me though - so I won't be leaving it for too long!! !

    Thanks for following along!
    E-tek Racing and Restorations

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  4. #204
    It's awesome bartsscooterservice's Avatar
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    E-tek,

    Do you have a sandblaster cabin ? If not i'd recommend getting one.. it saves ALOT of time on all the small parts...

    Gr Bart
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

  5. #205
    Ultimate Restorations e-tek's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bartsscooterservice View Post
    E-tek,

    Do you have a sandblaster cabin ? If not i'd recommend getting one.. it saves ALOT of time on all the small parts...

    Gr Bart
    Yes I do. I'm fairly well-equipped, but I have learned over the years what to farm out - like some paint jobs and major blasting. I've also learned not to blast things like carburetors !
    E-tek Racing and Restorations

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  6. #206
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    Default Good-night, for now....

    It's killing me not getting at the re-assembly process now that it's paints (and ALL the parts are here!), but I've got several other projects in the cue and I'm hoping as my son gets older his interest in it grows.....

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  7. #207
    '75 280z tamo3's Avatar
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    Looks great! I really like the color.
    Could you tell us what exact color did you paint? product code?
    Also, did you spray clear?
    '75/280z

  8. #208
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tamo3 View Post
    Looks great! I really like the color.
    Could you tell us what exact color did you paint? product code?
    Also, did you spray clear?
    You bet! It was done with Dupli-Color's "new" Paint Shop paint system, which is a DIY color system you spray right from the can - no mixing, reducer or hardener required. I used about 4 (quart) cans of their Deep Blue Metallic and 4 cans of clear, which are about $30.00 a can, so the total for the paint was about $250. Compare that to about $1000 for 2-part paint from a local supplier.

    I sprayed it from a $120 HVLP paint gun in my own shop, after draping the surroundings with plastic and watering down the floor. (Of course even doing so, the floor is now blue!) The paint went on easily, just make sure you have a cross-flow (fans sucking air through and out) and a GOOD "Organic Vapour/OV' rated mask. I used a P100 rated mask, which is not quite the same and got pretty high near the end....

    After a week or more you will need to buff it all out with a power buffer, which can be just as much (or more) work as the paint process to make it shine. That'll be down the road for me though, as I have a couple other project to get done ahead of it!

    Hope that helps - if you have any specific questions, fire away!
    Last edited by e-tek; 10-18-2013 at 02:15 PM.
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  9. #209
    '75 280z tamo3's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info!
    Based on a lot of people's recommendation I was planning to paint my car with PPG.
    I bought Epoxy primer ESU470 a couple month ago. I haven't spray epoxy primer yet.
    Do you think if I use this Epoxy primer and use Dupli-Color's "new" Paint Shop paint system will messed up?
    '75/280z

  10. #210
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    Default Paint product differences

    If, by Epoxy Primer you mean a 2-k (2-part, catalyzed) high-build primer for block sanding, that's what I used - and always use. I block it all out with 120 then 180, then re-spray it to sand it with 320 then 600 wet. Finally, I sprayed a 2-k sealer just before spraying the paint.

    The big (and really only) difference between the PPG-type of paints of course is that the are catalyzed, meaning after you spray the base you mix and spray a catalyzed clear (not necess. the same brand) which has isocaynates (the DC product doesn't) but will be harder and shinier right away, while the DC paint will need to harden over time and has to be polished to a shine. Polishing the hardened clear is not really for shine, but to remove orange peel, dirt, runs or other imperfections.

    They are very different products. The Dupli-color product is easier to spray in a DIY setting, with no mixing or reducing required and no isocyanates to worry about, but, you have to wait for it to harden (days to weeks), then you need to polish it to a shine. Hardened/2-part paints were created for production settings: dangerous, but fast to harden and shiny right away. If sprayed under perfect conditions (heated booth by an experienced painter), it may not have to be polished at all and can be ready to re-assemble and deliver in hours.

    Lastly, repairing the Dupli-color product is easy in a DIY setting too. You just sand it smooth, then blow on enough base to cover, then a few coats of clear. You'll then be able to polish it and it'll blend in, whereas with catalyzed clear generally has to be painted in full panels (it can be blended out in small areas, with specific solvents that will 'melt' it into the old clear).

    Hope that helps!?
    Last edited by e-tek; 10-20-2013 at 07:20 PM.
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  11. #211
    '75 280z tamo3's Avatar
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    Thanks E-tek for the detail of explanation.
    I used 2K epoxy primer as you mentioned.

    When I read review of this paint at Amazon, a lot of people complain about clear.
    How many time did you paint clear?

    Thanks,
    tamo3
    '75/280z

  12. #212
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    I put on 3 or4 coats of clear. I haven't polished it yet - maybe I will at least do a piece this week to see and show how it turns out.
    E-tek Racing and Restorations

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  13. #213
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    Thanks E-tek. Look forward to seeing the final results.
    In the mean time, I want to see more pictures. The color looks like a bit lighter. but some area shows purplish blue.
    Can you post more photos?

    I like this level of dark metallic blue
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    But this level of metallic blue is also look nice.
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    i wonder mixing with BSP210 - Midnight Blue with BSP204 - Deep Blue (Metallic) can make the color darker easily...

    Regards,
    Tamo3
    '75/280z

  14. #214
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    Looking great!! Any more progress on this? I love these threads. I just picked a 71. Welder in the mail and am ready to get to gettin'.

    On your windshield, did they just use a universal moulding??

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    when are you going to paint the area at the bottom
    of the windshield? that area shows a bit even after
    the cowl cover is on.

  16. #216
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    Default Suspension

    Quote Originally Posted by hr369 View Post
    when are you going to paint the area at the bottom
    of the windshield? that area shows a bit even after
    the cowl cover is on.
    Never!

    Front Suspension - complete stock rebuild - plus Urethane bushings:

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    E-tek Racing and Restorations

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  17. #217
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    Finished off the brake rebuilds today, but I forgot to order the ball joints with my Black Dragon order, so I'm waiting on those from NAPA.... (I hate NAPA)....

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    Time for a second application of Eastwood's Caliper Paint!

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  18. #218
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    Default

    Glad to see you back at it.

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by 240dkw View Post
    Glad to see you back at it.
    I've been REALLY busy in the shop, but haven't worked on the 240 after painting it. Took some time off my "real" job and finished the 40Ford, plus took a big bite out of the 68 Camaro. Just checking in on yours!
    E-tek Racing and Restorations

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  20. #220
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    Got the brakes and spindles completely rebuilt, just working on the last bits before being able to bolt it all up to the car:

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  21. #221
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    Details, details....

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    Hoping to get the frond end bolted up tomorrow, then I can start detailing the rear end.
    E-tek Racing and Restorations

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  22. #222
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    Looks great!
    '75/280z

  23. #223
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    Nice work there E-tek, keep going it will be a whole car again soon
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by bartsscooterservice View Post
    Nice work there E-tek, keep going it will be a whole car again soon
    Thanks! I CAN ONLY HOPE....and keep plugging away!

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  25. #225
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    Looks great E- Tek, is that the Eastwood cad paint on those nuts and washers? I'll be passing through Saskatoon this May, bringing my car back from White Head. Maybe I'll stop by to see your work in person!
    Mark

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by northernz View Post
    Looks great E- Tek, is that the Eastwood cad paint on those nuts and washers? I'll be passing through Saskatoon this May, bringing my car back from White Head. Maybe I'll stop by to see your work in person!
    Mark
    No, it's a gold shade I found that is close, but actually covers! Eastwood's Cad system is 3 paints plus a clear. I used it on a brake booster for a 74 Challenger and it turned out great, but it's picky work that take a while - and maybe a couple tries - to get right.

    If you're on your way through by all means, look me up, there's always lots going on in m shop. My home phone is 306.665.1908
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  27. #227
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    As I am getting closer to bolting some items up to the car, I wanted to reverse the overspray on the undersides, so another coat of Rust Bullet was in order:

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    then i pulled in all rear end suspension parts out of the storage shed and brought them into the shop. I tell ya - metal at minus 30C goes through the gloves - FAST!
    E-tek Racing and Restorations

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  28. #228
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    It's not so long ago I painted the parts of my suspension but the front end is allready showing surface rust on some parts due the weather conditions right now. It's a constant fight against the elements I tell ya...
    Last edited by bartsscooterservice; 02-10-2014 at 02:19 AM.
    HLS30 32581, 5/71 Matching numbers

    Jay Leno : You know one week after the Americans have walked on the moon, the Japanese introduced this sports car, and…if you’re a car guy pretty equal. I mean walking on the moon was pretty good, but how many times you’d gonna walk on the moon? But here was an affordable sports car that had real performance and looked like it cost a lot more than it did.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by bartsscooterservice View Post
    It's not so long ago I painted the parts of my suspension but the front end is allready showing surface rust on some parts due the weather conditions right now. It's a constant fight against the elements I tell ya...
    Yep. Thats why my Zed won't see daylight until April. The weather here has been good so far, but when they start using salt on the roads its bad news for any Zed. Lets face, rust prevention wasn't Datsuns strong point.

    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Quote Originally Posted by e-tek View Post
    Details....

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    E-tek, Thats a nice job you have done on the suspension parts. Looks neat. I wonder how it will hold up to daily use?

    Your project is coming along nicely. Keep up the good work.

    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    E-tek, Thats a nice job you have done on the suspension parts. Looks neat. I wonder how it will hold up to daily use?

    Your project is coming along nicely. Keep up the good work.

    Chas
    DAILY USE?!?! Surely you jest!

    We have 6 cars and 4 only see summer use. The Z will get a rip a couple times a week at most. As for the painted bits holding up, I really enjoy the process of restoration and treat them like full-sized models. Not too concerned if the paint wears once done - I'll just touch it up again!
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  32. #232
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  34. #234
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    Thanks Bart.
    Pretty slow site though - eh?! I know we gotta post and support it though!
    E-tek Racing and Restorations

    Visit me at : www.E-tekRestorations.com

    or check my Blog: www.E-tekRestorations.blogspot.com

  35. #235
    Ultimate Restorations e-tek's Avatar
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    Jan 2009
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    Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
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    Goings on at the E-tek Rodshop

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    With the 40 Ford gone, I hope to have more time to get something done on the Z...

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    I've posted this photo before, but now the story of why it's still sitting here - ! The mounting points are currently occupied by the rotisserie bars - so I have to jack/lift/hold the front end to remove the rotisserie then attach the suspension! Oh brother.

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    E-tek Racing and Restorations

    Visit me at : www.E-tekRestorations.com

    or check my Blog: www.E-tekRestorations.blogspot.com

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