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Thread: fusible Link 280z

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    Default fusible Link 280z

    One of my fusible links is broken where it screws onto the fender wall. Is there anything that will work to glue it back together?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    First, don't forget to put the year of your car in your posts. There are some wiring variances between years.

    Second, your post doesn't make much sense from an electrical standpoint. A fusible link is a wire. It doesn't make sense that there would be a fusible link screwed to the fender wall since you typically don't want to break the ground on a circuit.

    That would lead me to guess that you're talking about the holder for the fusible links. (See the attached diagram.) If you are talking about the holder, I haven't tried to glue one back together. You could probably get a used one from Z Barn. Heck, you could also probably talk me into helping you swap it out.

    You might want to download a copy of the factory service manual. You can find a link to one in my signature.

    Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Steve, sorry about that, it's a 1978 280z and I'm talking about the fusible link holder. How do you swap the holder out, aren't the wires encased in the holder? I'm heading to Gainesville tomorrow afternoon to pick up a set of mags. I'm in Braselton.
    Thanks
    Randy
    Last edited by Irish Wake; 07-26-2010 at 07:24 PM.

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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    To be honest, I've never tried to take apart a fusible link holder. It shouldn't be too difficult with a reciprocating saw. There is probably a barb on the terminal that locks it into the holder. With a little work, you should be able to push it out.
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    Rust Free'ish zKars's Avatar
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    There is a popular method to replace these links with modern fuses.

    http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/f...nks/index.html

    I'm not personnally a fan of this, as it is just about as weatherproof as the original (not), but it is likely MUCH better than your current setup.

    Replacing the stock one with another stock one requires you cut and splice the wires. The base has molded in contacts. The high currents carried by these wires require that you do proper solder connections and properly insulate the exposed wires or you'll be doing this all over again real soon.
    Last edited by zKars; 07-27-2010 at 07:59 AM.
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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    From what I've read (one source only), the blow characteristics on fuses can be different from fusible links. I haven't studied the curves to see how different they are. Also, with fusible links, the length plays a part in the blow characteristic in addition to the rating of the wire.

    As Jim pointed out, with the moulded case we can't just push the wires out. Given that, the maxifuse mod may be a better solution since there wouldn't be splices involved.
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    A 20 amp fusible link is a 20 amp fusible link.When the amperage reaches 20 amps-it burns/melts.
    An alternative is installing a spade fuse holder and then using a circuit breaker instead of the fuse.
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    The easiest, most economical, water resistant method of replacing fusible links in my opinion would be with maxi fuses inserted into these holders. Parallel connectors crimped onto your existing harness covered with some heat shrink makes it an easy installation leaving the maxi fuses accessible. Remember, you can never go wrong by starting out with a smaller rated fuse if you are concerned with choosing the proper rating. I will see if I can dig up a link.
    Last edited by geezer; 02-14-2011 at 09:59 PM.

  9. #9
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Aren't fusible links classified by the gauge instead of amperage? The material is the same for all, and the gauge of the (wire) is what determines how much it'll take before melting. We can figure (or they did it for you) how many amps by those two factors.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomoHawk View Post
    Aren't fusible links classified by the gauge instead of amperage? The material is the same for all, and the gauge of the (wire) is what determines how much it'll take before melting. We can figure (or they did it for you) how many amps by those two factors.
    You're correct.But we are starting to get into semantics.A particular guage will pass "X" amps without melting.
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    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    NOt only will it handle so-many amps, but it also acts like a slo-blow fuse, taking some time before finally melting. Otherwise, it would pop every time you put on a heavy load like headlamps or charge the battery.
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    Hi Randy! My name is Carlos I am in VA. I too have the same problem with the two fusible link holders. Where did you find them and do you know if they have an additional pair of them? I have been calling many many places and no one seems to have them or answer my call. Any help would be appreciated!!

    thanks
    Carlos

  13. #13
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    Hi Carlos and Randy,

    I had the same crumbly fusible link assembly problem on my '78. I couldn't find used blocks anywhere, although I didn't make a completely heroic effort of it. I ultimately switched to maxifuses after briefly considering automotive circuit breakers (which are pretty cool). It's all described here:

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=35588

    ... with photos.

    I also did an alternator wire upgrade and headlight relay conversion while I was into the harness. Diagrams are in the above thread.
    Last edited by FastWoman; 08-06-2010 at 02:37 PM.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

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