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Thread: '72 stock with SU's(?)

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    Default '72 stock with SU's(?)

    Howdy,
    Just getting started with restoring 72 240 with 51k original mi.
    Lots of things to do, but getting it running is first on the list.
    It sat for about a year. I replaced points, plugs, condensor, rotor, cap, wires, added fresh fuel, sea-foam ( I swear by this stuff!) and to date have gotten one near miss out of the engine. Cleaned the carbs, and referred to the Chiltons which tells me that the carbs need 20W oil in the damper/plunger.
    I have tried NAPA, and a host of other parts "chain stores" and none of them have 20W any more. Where can you get 20W? Would 5W-20 suffice? also, any tips, pointers both verbal and electronic to areas regarding carb synchronization would be most appreciated. I'm not much of a mechanic, but my 15 year old son has "the gift" and can basically fix or rebuild anything that rolls. This will be his car, as soon as he's old enough to get a license, but for now it's "our's".
    This site is amazing, great info, looking forward....

    Glennz02

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    Registered User 240ZX's Avatar
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    Have you thought about going to a motorcycle shop and purchasing some fork oil? I would recommend using 10W or 15W.

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    Registered User MikeW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glennz02
    I have tried NAPA, and a host of other parts "chain stores" and none of them have 20W any more. Where can you get 20W? Would 5W-20 suffice?
    The oil in the carbs has little to do with the fact that you're having trouble getting the engine running. The oil simply acts as a dampener that affects the rate in which the throttle opens and closes. The weight of oil is not critical. Many people use ATF. I use 20W oil that you can buy in a little blue and white can labeled 3-in-1 oil.

    http://www.wd40.com/PressRoom/StockI...z_motoroil.gif

    As far as getting things running I'd first make sure you're actually getting fuel into the carbs. You might consider spraying some starting fluid into the carbs to get things going. If it runs a little and then knocks off you know you're not getting fuel. If it won't run at all with starting fluid then you're not getting spark.

    Quote Originally Posted by glennz02
    also, any tips, pointers both verbal and electronic to areas regarding carb synchronization would be most appreciated. I'm not much of a mechanic, but my 15 year old son has "the gift" and can basically fix or rebuild anything that rolls. This will be his car, as soon as he's old enough to get a license, but for now it's "our's".
    This site is amazing, great info, looking forward....
    Your best bet is to just search this site for information. Many people have come before you and asked similar questions. The best tool for syncing the carbs is called a Unisyn:

    http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merch...tegory_Code=TE
    -Mike
    Add your Z to my online spreadsheet registry

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    Thanks, I'm learning......

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    Great suggestions, thanks!

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    Biafra for President e_racer1999's Avatar
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    honestly, i use 10W40 and it works better than the 20W that i had in it before.
    Jason King
    6/72 240Z / HLS30 89646 (Yellow)
    1996 Infiniti I30 *I finally have all Nissans again!*
    1971 510 4door (wife's car)
    IZCC Member #14186

    Quote Originally Posted by xray View Post
    As unfortunate as it may be, if you want to vintage race, go Euro....If you want to race for real, stick with the Z!

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    Registered User jmanz6's Avatar
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    If you connect your timing light to each plug wire and crank it over, you will see if there is spark or not. That is how I found the miss I had when I misadjusted the new Crane XR 7000 pickup. If there is no flash, you have no spark. Make sure you have spark. Check fuel by unhooking the fuel line from the rail going to the carbs. Be sure gas comes out when you crank it over. Disconnect the coil plug wire for this test. No fires please...
    72 240Z, SU, header, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, All new Poly bushings, 280Z Tach, Crane XR-3000 ingition, 4-speed, "poop brown" Work in progress. Website

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    Thanks for all the input. here's the update. Got Spark, found clog on fuel line. tracing lines back cleaning and replacing as necessary. Filter replaced, fuel pump is primary suspect. Film at 11.
    GZ

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    Do you have the electric pump at the tank as well as the engine mounted pump? Is the electric pump not working? If it stops, it will be hard for the mechanical pump to pull gas thru.
    72 240Z, SU, header, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, All new Poly bushings, 280Z Tach, Crane XR-3000 ingition, 4-speed, "poop brown" Work in progress. Website

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    I have a 72 240 stock and have had similar problems as yours in the past due to the car not being run enough which was all my own fault. Victoria British LTD (search the web) has a catalog for Z's with the damper oil you need. They also have fuel pumps and the one I ordered has been working great for several years. The one I got from them was exactly like my original. In the meantime, if you know anyone with an old MG, old Mini Cooper or Jaguar that has SU Carbs they use the same oil. Where I live, there are alot more of these old cars than 240/260Z's and their owners seem to know a lot about the SU carbs.

  11. #11
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    Z Therapy recommended regular ATF for my carbs, which is what I used when I installed the new carbs. If you really want the 20W stuff, find an industrial lubricants supplier. I have a quart somewhere in my garage coolecting dust on a shelf, picked it up at a farm/ranch equipment supplier.
    1971 Datsun 240z
    9/70 HLS30-10766 Series 1 905 Red
    Pertronix Ignition
    Z Therapy Carbs w/Dual K&N Filters
    Jet-Hot coated MSA Exhaust Header
    Polyurethane Bushings, MagnaFlow Exhaust
    Tokico Illumina Shocks, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs

  12. #12
    Still plays with cars kenz240z's Avatar
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    If your '72 has an electric fuel pump back by the fuel tank, be sure to check the filter in it. It could be dirty and clogged. My '73 has both the mechanical pump and the electrical pump. I was having fuel flow problems and it turned out to be a dirty fuel filter.

    Kenny P.

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    Sum total of the multiple fuel pump discussion, SUs wont handle more than about 3 pounds of fuel pressure.

    51 thousand miles, those carbs are just getting broken in. Our JUST SUs video is a great tool for helping go through them cleaning them up and looking for anything out of whack. We also have a needle upgrade that helps bring them to life as well.
    Bruce Palmer
    Salem Or
    Sales@ztherapy.com
    www.ztherapy.com
    503-587-9800

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