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Thread: No power over 4000 rpms...

  1. #1
    Registered User code3z's Avatar
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    Default No power over 4000 rpms...

    Thats right, no power over 4000 rpms. Just installed Pertronix points and new "Flame thrower" coil. Starts just fine, runs well upto 4000 rpms. Then no more power. I think i might have wired the coil/ballast wrong. Got any ideas? Got a pic of the coil/ballast so i can compare my wiring to yours? What do i do with that?

  2. #2
    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    Can we assume that this was not a problem until the Pertronix was installed?

    Also, I don't have one so I'm not sure about this - but I always assumed that you don't want to use the ballast resistor once you have installed Pertronix.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    Registered User code3z's Avatar
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    Thanks Arne, your right. I called Pertronix who stated i do not need the ballast. OK but how do i wire it? Add a third wire to the + terminal of the coil? Right now i have two wires to the + terminal and two (including the wires from the distributor) attached. HELP.

  4. #4
    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    Connect the two wires from the ballast to each other.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    Registered User jackboxxx's Avatar
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    I still use my ballast (stock unit) with my pertronix setup. I noticed when i bypassed it, i got a lot more TACH needle "bouncing" up and down. anyone else observe this too???
    NOT Empty Anymore...

  6. #6
    beandip beandip's Avatar
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    The ballast resister is just for the old points dist setup to keep from frying the points. Just connect the two wires , the ones from each end of the resister , thus eliminating it . Also have you had this problem before the new ignition ? If so check the level of the floats in the Carbs and the fuel filters . You may be having a lean condition at the upper RPMs . If non of these things I mentioned then check the fuel pressure and under load . At Idle you should be seeing around 4 psi. not over 5 . Testing under load is tricky so be careful because it will require seeing the gage while driving at speed . If in doubt , change filters . Gary
    I'd rather die while I am living than live while I am dieing. CZC 1887 IZCC 12602 Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

  7. #7
    Registered User code3z's Avatar
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    Thanks for all your replys. I have fixed the problem. After I rewired the distributor and synced the carbs, it was down on power. I pulled the spark plugs and found all of them in poor condition. I dont understand how the engine ran before with the plugs in that condition. I installed new plugs and now it runs perfectly.

  8. #8
    Registered User WW2Winger's Avatar
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    Hold on guys, don't go away yet. Here is my story. Before getting into carburetor adjustments, I wanted to be sure the ignition was top notch. I replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Then I installed Pertronix. The car ran OK but the tach didn't work. I have re-wired till I'm totally confused. I have by passed the resistor but the tach acts very bad. It is jumpy and above 3000 RPM goes really crazy and even goes to zero. Also, at this point, the car acts like it is missing and erratic. Car was running reasonably well before Pertronix and my wiring efforts. I'm sure it's not the Pertronix, but my efforts. I have now lost track of even where I was. I know this is a simple fix, but I only have a few minutes each night to investigate, the weekend is when I will have more time, but this is heavily on my mind. Right now I have the Pertronix connected directly to the coil, a Green with white tracer wire connected to a black with white tracer wire at one end of the resistor. I have another black with white wire connected to the pos. side of the coil. This is a '71 240. Thanks for any advice.

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