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Thread: Have the rear panel painted or leave it black?

  1. #1
    Car Guy
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    Default Have the rear panel painted or leave it black?

    This weekend on Sunday, we made an appointment to drop my car to get painted, finally! I'm so stoked and excited as I've been waiting for this for years now. It's going to be in the shop for about two to three weeks depending on how soon he can work on it.

    Any way, I thought it might be interesting to get your opinions on the whether or not you guys like the rear panels on these cars painted the color of the car or left black as they were when they left the factory? I used to lean torwards having it painted the color of the car, but now I think I'll probably just have it painted black again. I have a few more days to think about it, but that's what I'm leaning torwards as of now. What are your opinions, what do you prefer just out of curiousity?





    Couple examples of a painted panel and the stock color
    Last edited by 76Datsun280z; 06-21-2007 at 07:02 PM.

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    GunZlinger KDMatt's Avatar
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    "Paint it black"

    'Stones knew what they were talking about.
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    Registered User JimmyZ's Avatar
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    It looks nice using the same color but I'd prefer to have original color on back. Contrast is good.
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    My personal opinion is that I prefer the original charcoal color.
    I have one original, and another painted the same color of the car, so I experience both every day..... If I put the second one back on the road it will be returned to a close to stock color.
    Again, that's only my opinion - if you really like the same-as-car color, go for it. Remember, it's yours, and your goal is not to please me.
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    Yeah,

    I've also kind of thought the look of the painted rear panels give the car more of a modern look then were they're black.

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    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    Austen:

    At the risk of being one to spoil the fun.

    Get the leak problem up front taken care of FIRST, then address any mechanical issues you may have, THEN go for the paint job.

    IMO there isn't a sadder sight than a beautifully painted car.....in the boneyard.

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by EScanlon View Post
    Austen:

    At the risk of being one to spoil the fun.

    Get the leak problem up front taken care of FIRST, then address any mechanical issues you may have, THEN go for the paint job.

    IMO there isn't a sadder sight than a beautifully painted car.....in the boneyard.

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    Good catch.

    Actually, the leak ended up being under the cowl under neath below where the wiper motor mounts after all. There we're several rust spots that we ended up filling under there and after several leak tests and driving it in the rain, no more leak. Thanks again for the help on that.
    Last edited by 76Datsun280z; 06-21-2007 at 08:23 PM.

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    Biafra for President e_racer1999's Avatar
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    paint it the charcoal colour...... i looooove it.
    Jason King
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    Back to OEM (Gray) for sure....When painted the car color...it just kind of blends in with the rest of the car...When it's gray...it's kind of IN YOUR FACE...they would have to be behind you tho...


    webdawg1

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    The alphabet begins w/ Z. AndysPlit's Avatar
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    Black will always add a nice contrast. My bodyshop painted my panel black without asking, but it turned out really nice. Never really cared for when the panel matched the rest of the car, but that's just me.

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    Administrator bpilati's Avatar
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    Paint it the original factory color.
    Bryan Pilati
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    Blue MeanZ Blue Meanie's Avatar
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    As the Stones said, "paint it black"! I even blacked out the trim around the taillights.

    Mine is black, and it compliments the car very well. (body is Laguna Blue Pearl with bright white Daytona stripes)
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    Black, but I do like that 240 in silver!
    Last edited by Rockr69; 06-22-2007 at 03:58 PM.
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    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
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    OEM factory gray
    Mark
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    Factory grey.

    Not black!

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    You guys think it would look better in the factory grey than the black?

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    You guys think it would look better in the factory grey than the black?


    Yes, I think the factory gray is the best option mentioned. It will be close to original, and in my opinion, by far the most appealing. Black would be a bit too much......
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    Bitten by the Z bug hard bigoak's Avatar
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    Once you go black...so maybe just paint it grey...if not...go gray....
    Bigoak

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    I like the rear panel body color, but only *prefer* it on a car with an integrated bumper body kit, like the MSA Type 2 I'm going to be putting on this summer.

    With the chrome bumpers, I definitely like the factory "suede" finish dark gray.

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    Blue MeanZ Blue Meanie's Avatar
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    I'd go with the black or the grey personally.
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    Factory grey.

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    I realize this is an old post, but need to paint the back panel. What is factory gray, does anyone have a sample paint code, or heck even a can of spray paint that I can buy at Lowes to use as a guide. Doesn't have to be exact, just close.

    Also, the front grill, was it a flat black, satin black or a gloss black, or really what looks best.

    Thanks.

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    Registered User Oiluj's Avatar
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    My votes:

    1st Choice: Factory Grey

    2nd Choice: Gunmetal Metallic

    3rd Chioce: Semi-Gloss Black

    4th Choice: Body Silver (looks too "modern" for my taste...)
    Julio
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    The front grill was the same color as the rear panels. All of these parts were originally a medium-dark, matte finish gray. You can a pre-mixed spray can from Classic Datsun Motorsports that is designed to be a very close custom match to the original color, but it runs $28 per can + shipping.

    If strict originality is not required, there are plenty of commercially available graphite colors that would look acceptable, although finding one that isn't a gloss finish can be tougher. (Gloss just doesn't look right to me, personally.)
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    Biafra for President e_racer1999's Avatar
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    I plan on using some of that graphite wheel paint and then spraying it with a satin clear coat. A lot cheaper and it will still look decent.
    Jason King
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    I originally posted black last year, but I got the chance to see a 240 in person with the charcoal grey and I would like to change my vote to original charcoal grey.
    Dan

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    TRtom - I don't know if your monitor will show an accurate color, but mine seems to be right on. Take a look in my gallery at the FairladyZ grill pic. That is about as close as you will get to the correct color on a computer screen. I like Jason's idea of using graphite wheel paint coated over with satin clear. That would look good and also give you the correct texture or close to it.
    Last edited by geezer; 08-19-2008 at 09:38 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by e_racer1999 View Post
    I plan on using some of that graphite wheel paint and then spraying it with a satin clear coat. A lot cheaper and it will still look decent.
    That's exactly what I'm planning to do. Would be done, but somewhere along the way I lost the center panel to my tailight finisher and had to buy one on eBay...
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    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by e_racer1999 View Post
    I plan on using some of that graphite wheel paint and then spraying it with a satin clear coat. A lot cheaper and it will still look decent.
    Quote Originally Posted by Oiluj View Post
    That's exactly what I'm planning to do. Would be done, but somewhere along the way I lost the center panel to my tailight finisher and had to buy one on eBay...
    I actually tried that, but found that the satin clear did a rather poor job of dulling the finish. Still looked glossy when it was done.

    I ended up using the expensive paint from Classic Datsun as I noted earlier. Even with that, I had to apply the final coats very dry to keep the gloss down and retain some texture.
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    Curses, Foiled Again! (while twirling my mustachio).

    Hmmm... Perhaps a light rub with fine bronze wool? That's worked for me before on varnish. I'll try a few things and let you know how it goes.
    Julio
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    It's all in the technique. Of course that's not to say the particular brands of paints couldn't make a big difference also. When spraying both, the graphite wheel paint and the satin clear, hold the can about twice the distance away that you normally would. Spray in very light multiple coats. Take your time in between coats. This results in a very dry spray and will contribute greatly to achieving the desired texture. Experiment, till you get it right, then come back here with your full report.

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    Paint - as Arne said - the front grille and the rear panels with the same colour:
    factory dark grey ("70% black").
    Tuomo
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    Jason:

    What do you mean the Graphite wheel paint? Is there a particular color you use, or place you buy at? I like the idea of using a satin clear coat as $28 ofr a spray paint can sounded high.

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    Default "suede" "satin" or "percent gloss"

    Professional paint (meaning catalyzed paint that is typically prepared with some ratio of paint: reducer: hardener can have a "flattening agent" added to it.

    The amount of flattening agent determines the "percent gloss". A painter experience with hot rods is likely have access to the "percent gloss" values for certain cars (I'm thinking of similar panels on some muscle cars).

    I forget the exact values (and it wouldn't matter because it was specific to the PPG paint I used) but I made up a close match for the factory gray and sprayed it with, I think, 60% gloss. It turned out GREAT! (this is where I'd post a pic if I had one handy).

    With PPG, the trick was to spray it in ONE heavy coat, and the flatenning occurs as the paint flashes out. This is certainly counter to "rattle can wisedom" of fewer, lighter coats, but I can tell you that it is definitely the case. I know this because I tried it both ways, and the single coat worked much better. Also, when spraying my struts with PPG black, I tried to emulate the factory sheen, which to me seems not full gloss. I added flattening agent then, too, but the parts REQUIRED multiply coats for proper coverage - and they came out super glossy despite the flatening agent.

    Too much information? -OK - but +1 more vote for "factory charcoal"

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    IMHO, I would absolutely stick with factory original specs- first. You can always change it darker later if you aren't happy. I hear Tower Paint is another source for Datsun colors, perhaps someone can comment on their quality if they've done business with them in the past? I have to buy 920 Gold touch-up paint once I get the existing paint color-scanned to deal with aging effects- as I imagine there might be some significant variance.

    Wah! I want to have nice, newly painted panels too, but I'm unable to make any major changes that would bring attention to them as not being utterly original. I just have this unavoidable drive to leave my car untouched as much as possible, except for any potential safety issues.

    The only solution? Buy another Z!

    2/71 240Z, HLS30-23788. 920 Gold/Black. California car. 5-speed, otherwise all original/paint, stickers & matching #'s. Driven almost daily over my local "road course" along a river. Performing thorough mechanical restoration, using only OEM parts to not ruin the provenance as an "original" car. Please check out my Flickr photostream!
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    Known Zitus carrier! hls30.com's Avatar
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    What, no mention of carbon fiber?
    black, to highlight the chrome.
    Will
    A Z is beautiful from any angle, I just happen to prefer to view from the drivers' seat!

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    Quote Originally Posted by hls30.com View Post
    What, no mention of carbon fiber?
    black, to highlight the chrome.
    Will
    How right. On a silver, black, or other similar colored Z, those cf panels really rock!


    BTW, @ Will, how do you like this pic taken from the driver's seat? The road was so twisty, as you can see in the GPS. I so agree with the sentiment expressed in your sig!
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    Last edited by Poindexter; 08-20-2008 at 08:11 AM.

    2/71 240Z, HLS30-23788. 920 Gold/Black. California car. 5-speed, otherwise all original/paint, stickers & matching #'s. Driven almost daily over my local "road course" along a river. Performing thorough mechanical restoration, using only OEM parts to not ruin the provenance as an "original" car. Please check out my Flickr photostream!
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    This is what I used and am very happy with the results.

    I saw a thread quite some time ago and wrote the numbers down as I was too cheap to spend the $28.00 a can for original. It is "Dupli-Color High Performance Wheel Coating, WP-102 Graphite" (on the bar code), but had to have "HWP-102 Graphite" to order. It went on the steel wheels, wheel covers, tail finisher, and the grille. I first used it on the wheels and it looked way to metalic and shiny for what I was going for. I then used "Krylon Matte Finish #1311" over it after drying and it turned out great. I put my original grill next to it and could not see hardly, if any, difference in color or texture. I then went and did the tail finisher, wheel covers and grille just to have it all matching as I had a few chips on the grille and a scratch on the tail finisher.

    I think the only way you could tell the difference in colors from original is to have an original side by side, but then have to take into account the original would of had some fading from being 35 years old, or changed from exhaust fumes. We will see what the judges say at the Midwest Z-Fest in Tulsa later this month.

    I was also told by the person behind the counter that Dupli-Color had just purchaced Krylon, or was it the other way around. Don't remember.

    Here are some pictures of how it turned out. Like I said before, I am very pleased with the results.

    Bonzi Lon
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    Please paint it the original charcoal color. From what I have found looking at these cars and pix of them, they might have used a darker and lighter shade of charcoal depending on the color of the car to help with contrasting.

    I know one member has a blue and a silver S30 overseas. One of the nicest pair of Z cars I have ever seen. From the pix showing the back, his blue car has charcoal rear and the silver is darker almost black. Can't remember which member. My dad would but he is out of town this week.

    Geezer is spot on how to create a satin look witha spray can. We shot my dad's green car using PPG clear. I added flattener to get the desired egg shell/satin.

    If you spray satin out of a can and it dries gloss then you are laying too heavy of coats on. Just do 4-5 light coats.
    Last edited by five&dime; 08-20-2008 at 12:43 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Poindexter View Post
    BTW, @ Will, how do you like this pic taken from the driver's seat? The road was so twisty, as you can see in the GPS. I so agree with the sentiment expressed in your sig!
    Is that a genuine, period correct, deerskin driving glove I note in your picture?

    Dennis
    1971 240Z - Original Owner
    2010 Infiniti G37 Convertible

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