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Thread: Poly bushing : Not worth it ?

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    Default Poly bushing : Not worth it ?

    Doing a complete refresh/restore of a 73 this winter. Project is being done by a restoration shop owned by a highly skilled/experienced/knowledgeable car passionate. This Z will be my primary week end ride next summer. Everthing is going great so far and level of service and workmanship is first class. Wish to have all bushings replace by poly bushing (Black dragon #62-455). I am being told by the restore shop that unless i plan to race the car this type of mod is not worth the money spend and will actually discomfort/harsh my ride to an unpleasant point for my 47 year old body... Any help/comment appreciated.
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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    That would depend on the rest of the components in the system. What combo are you going with for your suspension??

    Struts?
    Springs?
    Tires?
    Wheels?

    I ask because I have Urethane all around and 225/50ZR16's with KYB struts and Eibach Springs. My ride is great, not too harsh, not too hard. Taller sidewalls will be even softer.

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    very good question...

    i'm also gonna do an original restoration and I'm also planning to use polies ver rubber... i was hoping it would make the car feel tighter if you know what i mean...

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    It will, and you'll eliminate the "Slosh" of worn rubber bushings
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    Default Poly want a cracker?

    Unless you plan on restoring that Z to drive like a '70s American made vehicle I would suggest installing the poly. It will last longer than the OEM rubber bushings, give you better feedback and make your car handle like new for many years to come. The new rubber bushings will be a great improvement over the 35 year old ones you have now but will start to lose their response factor in a year of so of aggressive driving.

    I can understand why a muscle car shop would think that upgrading to poly would be cause for some concern since the change over from sloppy Mustang or Mopar to tight can really be felt now that poly is available for these cars as well. All that (non-rack and pinion) front end play would run right up your arms.

    Your Z, when new, was a whole hell of a lot tighter than any car made in America at the same point in time. I owned them new back in the '70s and the Z was on par with more expensive cars like Porsche and Jaguar, and head and shoulders above my "68 Mustang or '73 Cuda.

    But ride feel is a personal thing and while I sacrifice my fore arms for the feel I get when I drive my Z may not be your idea of how a Z should handle.

    What you want from your Z is the most important thing.
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    Thanks for all the great answer. I love this forum, there is so much to learn from. Wish to do the following bushings :

    - Front/rear control arm
    - Front strut rod
    - Front/rear bumps stops
    - Rack and pinion
    - Mustache bar
    - Steering coupler
    - Tie rod end boots
    - Front sway bar endlinks

    What should be my expection in term of effort/time estimate ?

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    The rear inner control arm bushings are a breeze to put in, as are the Ball joint and tie rod end boots, as long as your installing new ones. 2 minutes, tops.

    The mustache bar bushings are more involved. You need or want to burn out the old rubber and center sleeve, then use a dremmel with a drum sander to clean the remaining rubber out. Them use the Mfg Urethane lube before installing the urethane. This ones a pain because you tend to get an air pocket in there and they try to push back out. Urethane first, then the new metal sleeve. Half hour to 1 hour. DO NOT cut the large metal sleeve from the mustache bar.



    Outer control arm bushings in the rear are a pain in the a$$. First, burn out the rubber or the center sleeve then the rubber can be almost cut out. Then use a hack saw or saws all to cut the outer metal sleeve in 2 places, out 1/2" apart from each other. use a flat head screw driver to ply the sleave away from the metal of the control arm and seperate it from the body. Then clean it and prep it for the urethane grease.
    Similar to the picture of the front control arm below.

    Same thing for the front inner control arms but pay attention to which side is long and short, Take a picture that you can refer to when installing the urethane bushings. Don't forget to use a thin film of the supplied lube on every urethane to metal surface.



    The Steering coupler is only a couple bolts. no grease needed.

    Front strut rod bushing easy enough. but unless you're racing, you might wanna stick with rubber on this one. They typically just need to be retightened a little to remove the slop.

    Steering rack bushings are fairly easy as long as the motor is away from the front crossmember or vice-versa. The only problem I had with them was the Squared edge of the urethane bushing into a round edge seat. You'll see what I mean. I believe the one on the gear-set side (drivers side) is the problem child.



    Hope this helps. You can also check out the rebuild pics of my 260Z on cardomain, link is below, in my signiture. Also, either replace or clean and regrease the front strut bearing that sits between the upper spring perch and the mount. You'll thank me later.

    Dave.
    Last edited by Zs-ondabrain; 01-08-2009 at 10:19 PM.
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    Registered User Zealous's Avatar
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    Dave that is fantastic and very useful thank you
    Cheers

    JC

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    I think any new bushes, rubber or poly would feel alot better than 30year old worn out one rubber ones.

    You can get poly bushes in black now too, so you can keep that original rubber look, if that's a concern to you.
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    I wouldn't think that you would want poly bumpstops.

    My 510 has all poly bushings and most of my BMW bushings are poly. I love it. Everyone told me it would be too loud and too harsh. Hogwash!!!

    Definitely makes it ride tighter. May be a little more uncomforatable over potholes and cobblestone but normal driving should be very nice.

    Just be sure to grease the bushings unless you want a symphony of squeaks
    Last edited by five&dime; 01-09-2009 at 07:38 AM.

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    Poly bumpstops are a no-brainer and great. If you do no other poly, the bumpstops are the ones to do -- there are no downsides to the bumpstops, no ride concerns, no noises. No reason not to use them.

    Other than the bumpstops, all the rest of my suspension is rubber. I've always used OE Nissan bushings, and they work fine for normal street driving. Like Dave mentioned, if you are selective in where you use poly, the ride harshness increase (and there will be some) isn't too bad.

    As for color - unless you just have to have something flashy, go with Energy Suspension black, not red. The black are graphite impregnated, and are MUCH less prone to squeaks and noises.
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    Really b/c my BMW hits the bumpstops from time to time. They are rubber. I can't imagine how bad my teeth would hurt if I bottomed out on poly's

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    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arne View Post

    As for color - unless you just have to have something flashy, go with Energy Suspension black, not red. The black are graphite impregnated, and are MUCH less prone to squeaks and noises.
    Actually, Black is now More common as red is almost a special order item. When trying to buy all my Poly bushings for the 260Z, I wanted to go with red (as most of my offset colors on the under side are red) but found that if I wanted red, I'd have to go thru Energy Suspension or some other special retailer.

    The black, graphite impregnated bushing are better all around. They look stock, last longer (because of the graphite) and are actually stronger than red. It was explained to me that the red coloring process makes the Urethane weaker than the black, which is a more natural material? Or something like that.

    EVERYTHING is getting Urethane in the 260Z. I just want all the hard work to last and not have to be readjusted every year do to wear and tare. Don't get me wrong, rubber works and can last for years, but the rubber I removed from the 260Z was Trashed and should have been replaced 20 years ago.

    Mikemerkury,
    I forgot to mention the Sway bar bushing in my previous post. They are very easy to swap and a great place to start. The rubber factory doughnut bushings (on the end links) tend to split, tear and make the front end sloppy. It's as easy as buying new end links and poly bushings, that come with 2 new grade 8 bolts, nylon lock nuts and new washers. The stock ones tend to rust and deteriate and can "Snap" or bend if put under too much tension.

    If you stick with the stock size sway bar in the front, the body mount bushing is easily replaced. If you go with a larger bar, make sure you order the larger bushings and new body mount brackets. The larger bars urethane will not fit in the stock bracket.

    I did'nt take pictures of every upgrade so make sure you take plenty of before and after pics, both for us and your personal folder. You'll love showing off the end results of "Before and After"

    Dave.


    Here's a couple before and afters and the new 25mm front bar. just for your viewing pleasure.
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    I have removed all the poly bushing on my Z mostly because of the road noise they cause . They are harsh, but do tighten up the suspension. Since I do not race my Z , the OEM rubber is vary much quieter but still vary responsive . The tired rubber is gone and with the new rubber installed she handles great. I did install polly bump stops all the way around .
    Energy Suspension bump stops are soft and not harsh if you do bottom out. I have lowered my 240 and I can bottom out easily on speed bumps but it is not harsh or jarring at all. When I had the Polly bushing on the mustache bar I could hear a lot of gear whine besides the road noise. With the rubber it is 75%+ quieter . I drive my Z on mountain roads alot in the summer. I belong to a Z club and we have cruises once a month and the majority of them involve spirited driving in the twisty s .
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    Quote Originally Posted by five&dime View Post
    I wouldn't think that you would want poly bumpstops.

    My 510 has all poly bushings and most of my BMW bushings are poly. I love it. Everyone told me it would be too loud and too harsh. Hogwash!!!

    Definitely makes it ride tighter. May be a little more uncomforatable over potholes and cobblestone but normal driving should be very nice.

    Just be sure to grease the bushings unless you want a symphony of squeaks
    I'll second that.

    I replaced all of the original bushings on both of my '78 coupes with the Energy Suspension master poly bushing kit. Replaced the front sway bar bushings with poly too.

    Just make sure you get the right diameter sway bar bushings as I believe Datsun used three different diameter front sway bars on the various S30 models. Or maybe it's just the 280z's. Someone more knowledgeable on this please correct or clarify if necessary.

    Although driving on rough roads can be a little bouncy and even slightly harsh, overall both cars feel and handle very tight and nice. On the freeway and good roads, the ride is smooth as butter. Well almost . Surprisingly quiet too.

    From time to time I do hear a small squeak or two from somewhere up front but it's really not bad at all. IMHO, its a small price to pay for the huge improvement in handling and overall feel.

    Something else you may want to consider: using poly bushings will most likely accentuate any pre-existing rattles, loose or ill-fitting parts, etc. For example, the driver's side window on my burgundy '78 is a little loose on its track, so that's sometimes more noticeable.

    Think of it as an additional incentive to fix all those little things like that!

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    Mike....Definitely go poly (IMO). Just make sure when installing the bushings that you coat them with silicon grease, otherwise they will squeak on you. The poly on the rear inner control arms will also help eliminate the dreaded rear clunk!
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    RedNeckZ redneckz II's Avatar
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    Cool poly info

    I have the red poly bushings on my 71 240Z. Also have lowering springs and Koni D racing shocks set on the number 4 setting. It rides a lot harder then the stock version. But it also out performs the stock version by miles. The noise isn't that bad (I also do not have any interior in it). But everyone has their own taste and likes. So look at all of the information out there and make your own decision. You do have to apply a good coating of the poly grease when installing the bushings. I went so far as to drill and install grease fittings into most of the bushings. It helps a lot to keep the noise down. Good Luck, Rich.

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    It's funny how most of the people who recommend poly are from warm weather states. Keep in mind that road quality in the areas you drive will determine if poly is the way to go. I have full poly in my '78 and it is fantastic on smooth roads, but horrible on beat up Michigan roads. We have some of the worst roads in the US and I have to be very carefull when I'm on roads that I don't drive everyday. On the roads that I do regularly drive, I know EVERY pothole, manhole cover, frost heave and patch. On any given day, I drive in the same lane and follow the same weaving pattern to avoid the nasty stuff. My car really hates frost heaves. Any sudden wheel input will rock my car. I don't know how your Montreal roads are, but if they are anything like Detroit's roads, I would go with rubber unless you are really willing to trade off ride for handling. New rubber will be way better than old rubber and will still make your Z tollerable on bad roads.

    When I take my Z on a road trip and cross the Ohio line, I am in heaven. My Z responds beautifully and does a great job on rolling roads and small bumps. The minute I cross back into Michigan, I wonder why I installed poly, but more often than not, kick myself for ever moving to this crappy state with it's horrible roads.
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    Jeff, I never thought of that. I've been following the poly vs. rubber debates for awhile. I already ordered a set of Energy black poly bushings for the whole car, but I could always mix 'n match or go to rubber if need be. Montreal roads are just like Toronto roads. Come spring, theres a ton of potholes from the constant freeze/thaw effect.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff G 78 View Post
    ...but horrible on beat up Michigan roads. We have some of the worst roads in the US...
    Not to rub salt in your wounds, but I frequently drive to Detroit on business, and I agree, Michigan has to have some of the worst road conditions in the Midwest.

    The Michigan DOT always blames it on the weather, but I don't understand how the weather can change that radically at the state line. You don't suppose that it has something to do with the lack of overall weight restrictions on trucks in Michigan do you?

    Entering Michigan from either Ohio, or Indiana, if you are riding in a car reading or working on a notebook computer, you can actually feel the change without having to look up from what you are doing. And I94 (the Ditch as the locals call it) is horrible. It is like a badly maintained county road. I don't know how people who have to drive on that road every day keep their cars operational.

    I feel your pain, usually at least three or four times a year.

    So to bring us back on subject... consider the local terrain before deciding to switch to poly bushings. If you drive mostly on poorly maintained roads you might not want to go that direction.
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  21. #21
    Registered User Jeff G 78's Avatar
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    We have one of the highest gas tax rates in the country, yet the worst roads. Just yesterday, I saw a guy get a flat tire from a chunk of pavement that had broken loose and was sitting on top of the roadway. I kid you not, the chunk was close to two feet square and a foot thick. Every day, I see potholes that are 8-10" deep with vertical walls. We have had times when they had to close bridges because the potholes were going all the way through and debris was falling on cars below.

    Michigan allows trucks to carry more weight than any other state. Many times, those trucks are full of trash coming over from Canada. Yep, it's cheaper to drive it across the border and dump it here than dump it in a country with vast amounts of wilderness.

    Ohio has the same if not worse weather and their roads are not bad at all. Also, we have more dirt roads than any other state. There are still dirt roads here right in the middle of very dense suburbs. I'm not talking farm land, I'm talking in cities! I really don't know where they hide all the road funds, but someone's getting rich!

    I laugh when people from Texas, or Florida whine about how bad their roads are. They would only have to come to Detroit once and they would never complain again.

    Sorry to rant. Bottom line, if your roads are good, go poly, if not, weigh the options carefully before choosing.
    Last edited by Jeff G 78; 01-24-2009 at 11:14 PM.
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    I feel sorry for the MI roads...
    Moved from straight bumpy MI roads to smooth curvy forest roads nearby Paris

    The Z is very happy here. First time I smile in a car driving it because of my feelings.
    Poly bushings are the garage ready to be installed this year

    I also moved from 17" wheels with 215/45-17 tires to 15" wheels with 225/50-15. The ride is definitely softer and less crisp than before but the car is now more balanced and confortable (if I can say so...)
    Last edited by Lazeum; 01-25-2009 at 06:34 AM.

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    You guys think michigan roads are bad? you havent seen manila(Phil) roads, they are for the most part the absolute pits! I hope you MI drivers feel better now! The only place you can run your z or most any other fast sportscar would be our expressways (maybe our version of the turnpike?). POLY- Great sharp handling, but noisy on bad roads(i got em on my 924 but drive only on select roads and keep it lubed). RUBBER- Not as sharp handling but quieter on bad roads. your choice. Good luck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemerkury View Post
    Doing a complete refresh/restore of a 73 this winter. Project is being done by a restoration shop owned by a highly skilled/experienced/knowledgeable car passionate. This Z will be my primary week end ride next summer. Everthing is going great so far and level of service and workmanship is first class. Wish to have all bushings replace by poly bushing (Black dragon #62-455). I am being told by the restore shop that unless i plan to race the car this type of mod is not worth the money spend and will actually discomfort/harsh my ride to an unpleasant point for my 47 year old body... Any help/comment appreciated.
    Did go with the poly bushings. Ride response is great but the more than frequent SQUEAKKKKK are killing me.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemerkury View Post
    Did go with the poly bushings. Ride response is great but the more than frequent SQUEAKKKKK are killing me.
    Crap, im getting some thrown in tomorrow and this is what you have to say
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    It is my understanding that liberal lubrication will sequester squeeks, for a while.

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    I had the dreaded squeaks in my BMW as I have poly subframes and trailing arm bushings. My indy decided to use self tapping grease fittings and installed them where the two parts of the subframe bushing meet. Now he can just pump those suckers with grease whenever they make noise

    Literally just had this done yesterday so I will keep you updated. He was able to get a good amount of grease in there on the first pump and said it oozed out of all sides so... job well done

  28. #28
    Registered User moritz55's Avatar
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    I went with Poly "Black" ones from MSA on my '73 240z. Did the Steering Coupler, Rack Bushings and all Transverse link bushings, mustache bar bushings and Sway bar bushings(I may have missed one or two..). I lubricated with Lithium Grease (becuase it's not moisture absorbant) and MSA provdes a clear (vasoline-like) grease with their kits. Only thing left to do is the rear Bump Stops when I get my new coil springs from Arizona Z.

    My car rides at Stock Height as I have Tokico Shocks and Arizona Z coil springs.

    I get a squeak once in a while from my rear when accelerating on bumpy roads. But never on normal roads even over pot holes. I do live in upstate New York and our roads are pretty riddled with potholes. My steering and front end is awesome and on highway I get super control and no drifting. I love it - it drives better than my original 71 Z.

    My tires made the biggest difference on comfort and noise overall... I went from BFG g-Force Sports to Bridgestone Potenza A/S Pole Positions 205/65/15 .

    Also after rebuilding my rear end - and aligning the rear Toe-In to spec on my rear, noise was even further reduced.

    I think as you rebuild your rear end - try to assure your braces and mounting hardware is square so that your Toe-In is to spec after your new bushings are installed. 35+yrs of wear and stress causes many of vertical rear braces holding the transverse links in places to almost all be out-of-square. Thus a lot more noise and vibration is transferred to the body since the tires track poorly. Here is the link and read post #87 on what my experience was regarding my rear end rebuild:

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...t=33630&page=4

    Anyway - good luck and enjoy the process of improving your 240z !
    Last edited by moritz55; 10-13-2009 at 02:29 PM.
    Regards,

    Mark M. .........
    1973 240z HLS30-124668 (9/72), "Deep Beryl Green-PGV"
    2010 370z JN1AZ4EH3AM503017 (3/10), "Black Cherry-NAG"

  29. #29
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Weirs, I only used a thin film of the supplied grease from ES and I've Never had ANY squeaks from the suspension. Oil and grease tend to break down rubber and poly materials. So I never use any other than the supplied grease.

    Sorry to hear you have a squeaky rear.
    Dave
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    Weirs, I only used a thin film of the supplied grease from ES and I've Never had ANY squeaks from the suspension. Oil and grease tend to break down rubber and poly materials. So I never use any other than the supplied grease.
    I called Energy Suspension and asked about grease and they said any chassis grease would work and not degrade the poly. I put zerks in the outer control arm bushings in back, and they functioned well and made a difference that you could feel when pushing the control arms up and down by hand with no spring in the suspension. Unfortunately they don't work on the inners because the bushing cap isn't tight and the grease just comes out the gap. You can also drill and tap the sway bar brackets to grease there too, and you can shim up the strap that holds the sway bar bushing so that it isn't so preloaded and tight on the bar. Less stiction should = less squeaking, and being able to grease them up is for sure going to help.
    Jon

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    If you had immediate squeaking I would say your restorer didn't put any grease or lubricant when installing the bushings.

    Definitely go with poly, even with stock rubber you aren't going to have a "mercedes" like feel.
    things will only bother you if you let them.

    82 280zxt 4 spd auto
    73 240z--lsd, cv axles
    short throw info

  32. #32
    Registered User Walter Moore's Avatar
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    Between the exhaust note, and the stereo trying to keep up I can barely hear any squeaks... But then I have nearly 30 years in and out of industrial plants of various sorts. My hearing isn't what it once was.
    '71 240Z, Because any fool can drive fast in a straight line.

  33. #33
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmortensen View Post
    I called Energy Suspension and asked about grease and they said any chassis grease would work and not degrade the poly. I put zerks in the outer control arm bushings in back, and they functioned well and made a difference that you could feel when pushing the control arms up and down by hand with no spring in the suspension. Unfortunately they don't work on the inners because the bushing cap isn't tight and the grease just comes out the gap. You can also drill and tap the sway bar brackets to grease there too, and you can shim up the strap that holds the sway bar bushing so that it isn't so preloaded and tight on the bar. Less stiction should = less squeaking, and being able to grease them up is for sure going to help.
    And now I know. I just find it real interesting how 2 plastics, that almost look identical, can have adverse effect on the surface when introduced to Acetones, fuels and oils. Like I know that the white plastic on the turn signals can be cleaned with acetone, but the black plastic plate on the early combo switch's will immediately melt w/ acetone, as will the black handle and knobs. So I used hot water and soap and mostly isopropel? alcohol.

    Good to know J. I might consider this while reassembling the 260Z. Thanks again as usual.
    Dave
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  34. #34
    Registered User tibZ's Avatar
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    Good advice coming through this thread. Judging by the comments I think I will stick with the rubber bushings when I get to the suspension rebuild. Our roads here in Ma. are horrible, plus I'll only be doing summer driving.

    Does anyone out there offer a complete rubber suspension set?
    Mike
    tibZ
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  35. #35
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    Cool

    Just a heads up it turns out I don't need my Master Poly Bushing kit for
    my 77 Z after all.
    If any one needs it I can sale for less than MSA.
    All still in factory bags, otherwise they'll be on my shelf
    Works for 74-78 BTW

    (Edit: Sold them yo!)

    ~Z~
    Last edited by WingZr0; 10-22-2009 at 05:11 PM.
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    As long as you out run,
    The cops! ! !

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  36. #36
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    Originally Posted by Tibz
    Does anyone out there offer a complete rubber suspension set?
    Here is a rubber bushing source (Z car source)
    http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/...t__70_74___new

    Price is quite a bit more than poly $354.
    Last edited by Rich1; 10-21-2009 at 06:44 PM.

  37. #37
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    There is really alot to the bushing replacement that is important to consider. It has been mentioned that the black graphite is better than the red poly and this is true for a couple reasons. One, the graphite lubricates and gets rid of squeeks and two, they can be honed to 'fit' them to the application. Suspension travel is extremely important and can be the cause of the harshness that some complain of. If the suspension binds, and this can happen with any of the commonly available bushings you have limited suspension travel and the bump gets transmitted to the driver.

    I am not generally a big fan of rubber bushings but they do restore the original ride feel. The red poly bushings tend to gall when you try to fit them. Get the graphite!
    Rob
    2000 BMW R1100 RT-SE (for sale)
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    1975 Porsche 914 stroker motor autoX car
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  38. #38
    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Well, I read the post by Tibz wrong, and looked up where I got my poly set from.

    These guys are really great to deal with. The Poly set was inexpensive enough that I bought the tie rod ends and lower ball joints as well.

    I suggest one purchases the poly master kit, then purchases the rubber T/C rod bushings from NAPA and swap the rear poly bushing with the rubber. The other pair one may save for a few years and swap them in for the deteriorated rubber when the elements and underhood temps begin to degrade the rubber.

    http://energysuspensionparts.com/pro...ssan+240Z+1971
    Mat
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    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

  39. #39
    Registered User 240Z-Fan's Avatar
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    Default I recommend rubber bushings

    Years ago I spoke with a Z mechanic that used to frequent the old Z-list, Marc Sayer. Though he wasn't the best businessman, he did have a lot of knowledge that I appreciated.

    He said he often had to talk people out of going to poly bushings. Instead, he talked them into replacing all the old rubber with new rubber because poly is just too harsh for the street. Replacing the old worn out rubber with new rubber really transformed the cars.

    For a race car I would go with poly, for the street, rubber.

    My 240z is getting new rubber this winter as I doubt the 36 year old rubber is still good. It is also getting all new ball joints and tie rod ends.

    Al
    Last edited by 240Z-Fan; 10-22-2009 at 06:39 PM.

  40. #40
    Registered User Jeff G 78's Avatar
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    Marc Sayer! Wow, it's been a long time since I heard that name. He used to be quite a fixture on the old Z Home mailing list.

    As far as his advice, I couldn't agree more. Poly is great, but there are major trade-offs. Most people would prefer new rubber for street driving.
    Jeff
    Northville, Michigan
    IZCC #1285
    '78 280 10:1 CR, Arizona Z Car header, urethane bushings, Tokico springs, Illumina struts, Panasports w/Hankook R-S2 225/50R16 tires, Maxima 105 amp alternator
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    Found this old thread...great info and opinions. Just wanted to add my post.

    I live in Southern California where the roads are smooth, but with traffic you only drive 5 mph anyways. lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by five&dime View Post
    I had the dreaded squeaks in my BMW as I have poly subframes and trailing arm bushings. My indy decided to use self tapping grease fittings and installed them where the two parts of the subframe bushing meet. Now he can just pump those suckers with grease whenever they make noise

    Literally just had this done yesterday so I will keep you updated. He was able to get a good amount of grease in there on the first pump and said it oozed out of all sides so... job well done
    In order to solve this annoying squeak problem of mine i am about to try installing self tapping grease fittings as suggested by five&dime. Anyone did try this before ? Did it solve your squeaking problem ? What kind of grease did you use ?

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    Registered User LeonV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemerkury View Post
    In order to solve this annoying squeak problem of mine i am about to try installing self tapping grease fittings as suggested by five&dime. Anyone did try this before ? Did it solve your squeaking problem ? What kind of grease did you use ?
    Everything you ask is in this thread, if you look.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonV View Post
    Everything you ask is in this thread, if you look.
    Started this thread and surely know what is in it. This is not zcar.com and your comment do not add anything positive to this group and thread. Arne can you delete LeonV latest reply please.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikemerkury View Post
    In order to solve this annoying squeak problem of mine i am about to try installing self tapping grease fittings as suggested by five&dime. Anyone did try this before ? Did it solve your squeaking problem ? What kind of grease did you use ?
    I had a lot of squeaking coming from the poly T/C rod bushings right after I put them in. That was the only suspension component that I had changed so I know it was coming from them (plus direct application of WD40 to the bushings stopped the squeaks for a while).

    Subsequently one of the T/C rods broke so I went to the poly in the front, stock rubber in the back, and ALL of the squeaking went away. I also replaced the front transverse link bushings with poly at the same time, and this did not add any new squeaks.

    For your consideration. Might be worth a trial anyway, pretty easy to change.

  46. #46
    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L
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    I have installed grease fittings in several bushing locations and they work fine. I use regular grease and hit the fittings the same time I'm under the car doing the ball joints, steering rack, u-joints, etc.

    Before I put in a different rear control arm set-up I had delrin concentrics and I tapped fittings in on the long narrow tube of the stock rear control arm. Filled with grease they keep the bushings well lubricated.

    I also have them on the concentric front control arm bushings that are delrin. Works great.
    if a little knowledge can make you dangerous, I'm a little dangerous

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    Quote Originally Posted by gnosez View Post
    I have installed grease fittings in several bushing locations and they work fine. I use regular grease and hit the fittings the same time I'm under the car doing the ball joints, steering rack, u-joints, etc.

    Before I put in a different rear control arm set-up I had delrin concentrics and I tapped fittings in on the long narrow tube of the stock rear control arm. Filled with grease they keep the bushings well lubricated.

    I also have them on the concentric front control arm bushings that are delrin. Works great.
    Fantastic answer gnosez, this is exactly what i was looking for. Will do the same as you and will let everyone know how it went once done. Thks

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmortensen View Post
    I called Energy Suspension and asked about grease and they said any chassis grease would work and not degrade the poly. I put zerks in the outer control arm bushings in back, and they functioned well and made a difference that you could feel when pushing the control arms up and down by hand with no spring in the suspension. Unfortunately they don't work on the inners because the bushing cap isn't tight and the grease just comes out the gap. You can also drill and tap the sway bar brackets to grease there too, and you can shim up the strap that holds the sway bar bushing so that it isn't so preloaded and tight on the bar. Less stiction should = less squeaking, and being able to grease them up is for sure going to help.
    Does this not answer your question, Mike?

  49. #49
    Eeeeeezzzzzzzz
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    Replaced my rubber with poly... Not happy stiff ride and squeaky. It was done by a reputable shop. Made sure to tell them to grease, but not sure that happened. Knowing what I know now, I would prefer rubber because of the ride. Personal choice

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