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Thread: The Bad News: RUST - VIDEO

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    Registered User BoldUlysses's Avatar
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    Default The Bad News: RUST - VIDEO

    Finally got around to editing/posting this one:



    Comments/corrections welcome. Let me know what you think! Is it a goner or salvageable?
    Matt | Spannerhead.com | Original Z Owner #129 (2nd Gen) - '72 240Z (HLS30-93069) '95 525i/5 '05 MPV

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    I just finished writing a series (a long series) of cheques for an extensive vacation on a rotisserie and mine started out very clean. It is amazing where the rust can pop on these cars and it spreads like wild fire once it breaches the unibody. The dog leg rust on mine came from the front of the rocker and so forth. So is it worth it to restore? That is a question only you can answer.. I'm glad I did mine but it has cost at least 3x what I figured. Good luck!

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    Registered User olzed's Avatar
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    What you can see is just the tip of the iceberg. A big undertaking.

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    Registered User BoldUlysses's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies, guys. Yeah, I should post another video after I get the car stripped down to the metal. Chances are it'll be even more bleak.
    Matt | Spannerhead.com | Original Z Owner #129 (2nd Gen) - '72 240Z (HLS30-93069) '95 525i/5 '05 MPV

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    Supporting Member Diseazd's Avatar
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    I agree with olzed.......your money would be better spent on paying up for a more rust free car. You're looking at hours and hours of expensive work and materials......"Jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it"! IMO Guy
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/1404980...7600346077563/
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    Reproduction panels are not the best, so you not only will have to replace, but will have to fabricate too. Like said above, there's more to be found, but I have seen much worse. Depends on your skill level and time and initial investment and sentimental attachment to the car.
    I spent 40 hours just doing floors and rails.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
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    Registered User Z dreams's Avatar
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    If the price is right you would have a good parts car. IMO you will never catch up with the rust.

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    Registered User BoldUlysses's Avatar
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    That's where it gets tricky. My dad was the car's original owner, so we're kind of stuck with this one. It's either restore this particular Z or don't restore anything at all.

    I'm going to take it apart at least and have a "Z-knowledgeable" body guy look at it. At that point I think we'll be able to make a more informed decision.
    Matt | Spannerhead.com | Original Z Owner #129 (2nd Gen) - '72 240Z (HLS30-93069) '95 525i/5 '05 MPV

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    Registered User cbuczesk's Avatar
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    I'd fix it. It doesn't seem that bad to me. Zedd Findings sells nice floors/frames and the other areas are easy to make by hand. How are the rear wheel arches, battery area and front shock towers?

    Chuck
    East Coast Z Nationals held at the Carlisle Import & Kit Nationals - May 16-18, 2014 Carlisle, PA
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    Registered User BoldUlysses's Avatar
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    No visible rust around the front shock tower area. The inner fender under the battery tray has a nice rust hole in it (the tray itself is fine, weirdly enough). Wheel arches seem okay except where they meet the rocker panels behind the doors. Some bubbles under the paint, but they're not ragged and crumbling.
    Matt | Spannerhead.com | Original Z Owner #129 (2nd Gen) - '72 240Z (HLS30-93069) '95 525i/5 '05 MPV

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    Registered User cbuczesk's Avatar
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    So far everything sounds easy to fix. Yeah, the floors/frames take some time but they aren't hard to do. You might want to drill out the battery tray to get better access to the rust and hole under it. It'll be easier to weld in a patch from up top too.

    Chuck
    East Coast Z Nationals held at the Carlisle Import & Kit Nationals - May 16-18, 2014 Carlisle, PA
    www.carlisleevents.com/events/import
    1969 240Z #390
    1971 Fairlady Z
    1971 240Z parts car
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    1972 240Z turbo
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    1975 280Z my first car
    1978 620 King Cab

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    I'd estimate - around $14K for metal work, replacement parts, body work and Paint & Supplies. Then perhaps another $15K redoing everything else. On top of that about 650 hours of your weekend labor. When finished, you would have a high quality restoration - ready for the next 50 years. As long as you get inside all body panels and stop all rust.. $30K isn't too much to have a finished car - especially one that has been in the family since new.

    Looks like it was originally White with Red interior..

    Can you do it for less ? Yes - but no sense doing it if you don't go 100%..

    HOWEVER - the only real reason to do it - is because you enjoy the process. You enjoy the time spent in the garage, you enjoy the personal satisfaction of getting each part, component, assembly finished and looking like new again. Getting done can not be the goal - enjoying the process is the objective. Otherwise don't start...

    FWIW,
    Carl B.
    Last edited by Carl Beck; 06-18-2012 at 07:26 AM.

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    Registered User psdenno's Avatar
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    Not as bad as some, not as good as many. As others have said, much depends on your skills, bank balance, and need for a long term project. What do you want to have when it's finished - show car, fun weekend driver, daily driver? Take into consideration the car's mechanical condition as well as the rust issues when making your decision.
    Dennis
    1971 240Z - Original Owner
    2010 Infiniti G37 Convertible

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    Registered User BoldUlysses's Avatar
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    Gulp.

    Well Carl, you have an experienced eye if ever there was one.

    I plan on doing everything except the actual cutting, welding and paint shooting. That includes as much of the prep work as I can do, which may not be much. But I can certainly strip down the car.

    It was originally silver on red, which it will be returning to. (C'mon Carl, the car's on your registry! )
    Matt | Spannerhead.com | Original Z Owner #129 (2nd Gen) - '72 240Z (HLS30-93069) '95 525i/5 '05 MPV

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    ... I should have looked. My body work estimate is based on the lastest 240Z resored. I took the body shop a bare shell. That one took new floorboards, an NOS Right Rear Quarter, replacement innerfender wells on both rears, replacement dog leg on the left. The car was on a rotisserie and the undercarrage was striped to bare metal and completely refinished, sealed etc. All paint/supplies were PPG.

    At first I thought the estimate was a bit high on that last project .. but after all the metal work was done - I felt it was a very fair price. About 1700.00 of that $14K was for the body parts replaced. About $6K was labor for the metal work and the other $6K was for a very high quality paint job. When the metal work was done - you could not tell the car was ever touched..

    Of course prices vary depending on the overhead of the location in which the shop operates.

    I tried to keep a very accurate track of the actual time spent on the last car - I don't work too fast but I'm fairly efficient at most tasks.. so I feel that the 650 hour figure is pretty close.

    FWIW,
    Carl B.
    Last edited by Carl Beck; 06-18-2012 at 07:54 AM.

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    Registered User cbuczesk's Avatar
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    The cutting, welding and painting is the fun part! If you were closer I coupld probably help you out with the metal work.

    Chuck
    East Coast Z Nationals held at the Carlisle Import & Kit Nationals - May 16-18, 2014 Carlisle, PA
    www.carlisleevents.com/events/import
    1969 240Z #390
    1971 Fairlady Z
    1971 240Z parts car
    1972 240Z ITS race car
    1972 240Z turbo
    1974 260Z turbo
    1975 280Z my first car
    1978 620 King Cab

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    Is there a chemical dip in your area? That would eat all the rust leaving you with seeing all that would need to be redone.

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    Marooned Fish cygnusx1's Avatar
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    You can't put a price on sentimental value, but if my son had my old Z, and he was in your position, I would slap his wrist, tell him to put that wallet back in his pocket, and spend it more wisely.
    Dave C, Putnam, NY
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    Thanks for the input, Carl. That's really helpful. I think I'm going to tear the car down over the course of the next couple of months and see where we are then.

    Thanks for the thoughts, Chuck. I wish you were closer too! Mechanical work I can handle, but bodywork is a black art to me...

    Don't know about a chemical dip. I assume that's where they dip the entire unibody? I'll ask the body guys when the time comes.

    Dave, rest assured my dad and I are going to have some long conversations about this one. We may move forward; we may decide it's time to move on. FWIW, neither my mom or dad are the type to throw things away easily, so...we'll see.
    Matt | Spannerhead.com | Original Z Owner #129 (2nd Gen) - '72 240Z (HLS30-93069) '95 525i/5 '05 MPV

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    Brian
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    I would say if your going to do all the work yourself and dont mind spending tons of time doing it, go for it. If your paying someone to do the bodywork, you would be much better off with a less rusty car.

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    Registered User grantf's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=BoldUlysses;401735]
    I plan on doing everything except the actual cutting, welding and paint shooting. QUOTE]

    The paint shooting I understand. But the cutting and welding is not that difficult and you could save a lot of money there. You could if you were so inclined get a welding setup with gas for under $1,000.
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    Last edited by grantf; 06-18-2012 at 04:06 PM.

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    you can't put a price on sentimental value. I like that you and your dad are going to review the needs of the car and then go from there.

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