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Thread: Dome LED Light

  1. #1
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    Unhappy Dome LED Light

    So I'm trying to replace my dome light with LEDs. *I check the LEDs on the battery and a nice bright light. So up at dome wires I check and get 12 V. but when I hook up the LEDs to the dome wires I get a real dim light.

    78 Z

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    Registered User beermanpete's Avatar
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    Perhaps the ground is bad. The power (+12V) is constant to the dome light. The ground is made when you open the door. Check the switches in the door jambs.

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    I have I'm stumped. All the switch are working fine.

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    Polarity? Try turning the bulb around.
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

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    I have try that.

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    Default test the voltage

    test the voltage at the dome light. try wiggling the door switches around see if light gets brighter momentarily. i've had corroded switches
    that did that

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    Known Zitus carrier! hls30.com's Avatar
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    Might you be checking the LEDS one at a time on the battery and all wired up at the dome light? If so check your wiring-you possibly have series where you should have parallel-or viceversa!
    A Z is beautiful from any angle, I just happen to prefer to view from the drivers' seat!

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    I have check the light in series on the battery and nice and bright. Get 12 v on the dome wires, door switch works fine. I'm stumped

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    Corrosion in the switch in the dome light or on the contacts?


    disconnect battery then measure resistance to ground through the circuit to see where the problem is.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
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    Voltage is potential - not power. If there is a high resistance (compared to a light bulb) in the circui, it might be inconsequential to the very high resistance in your meter. This results in a very small voltage drop as read by your meter. When you insert a bulb, this resistance appears huge and drops a lot of voltage.

    Don't measure ohms, measure voltage across the socket contacts with the bulb out and then in. If there is a serious drop in voltage when you insert the bulb, you have high resistance somewhere in the circuit.

    As others have said, automotive LEDs usually only work mounted in one direction. First check is to reverse the mounting to see if things get better or worse.

    One last thing, I replaced the Malibu lamp bulbs with automotive LEDs. Found the cheap contacts in the lamps and cheap contacts in the Chinese LED didn't always make good contact. You may have the same situation and may have to scuff the contacts with some fine sandpaper to get a good contact.
    1971 240Z HLS30A 17574 L24-021025

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    I'm losing all the power when I plug in the LEDs. Could it be a amp drop because of corrosion?

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    HLS30A 17574 djwarner's Avatar
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    Exactly, did your bulb work before you tried the LED? First place to look is corrosion in the door switches. These switched supply a ground to the circuit. Try opening each door, snapping the nylon button a couple times and then twisting th button while it is fully extended.
    1971 240Z HLS30A 17574 L24-021025

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    My plan is to intall the ZX map light where the 240Z dome light goes. I always liked the swivel aspect.
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

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    Yes the stock dome light work before I put the LED.

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    If you can insert the old bulb and it still works, you are making poor contact with the LED. I am assuming you bought one tha mimics the terminals of old bulb.

    Mine is a tube with terminal caps with points on each end. Scratch the contacts with a fine sandpaper or steelwool.
    1971 240Z HLS30A 17574 L24-021025

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    Go get another bulb, I had the LED in my '78 and it was dim as well - I went back to the OEM style.
    Andrew (ZCurves)
    1978 Coupe - HLS30-440105
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    pro deo et patria
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    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    What sort of LED setup are you using. Im using standard LED replacements and they work excellent. See http://www.abc-led.nl/webshop/led-autoverlichting/ but Im sue you can get these in the states.
    Chas

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    I had no problem with the LED bulb I got from Superbrightleds once I turned the bulb around for proper polarity. Of course, I installed new door switches at the same time and cleaned the contact area for the switches to ensure good contact with the body.
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    Found the problem, had a bad connector on the power line. Thank all for your input.

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    Great! btw I looked at the new LED dome lights when doing a resto but wanted to see if others had luck. What do you think? Is the cabin brighter with the LED vs incandescent dome light?
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Yes and I ran wires down the foot wells a now light in the foot wells.

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    Phil, I'm very pleased with the LED bulb I installed in the dome light.
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

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    Great! Did anyone swap out the map light too?
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  24. #24
    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    Of course, Phil. I put one into the 260Z. I think I needed to use a more powerful LED than I put in, though.
    73 240Z
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    Thanks Steve! You are the electric Guru here. I should have asked long ago.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yellow78 View Post
    Yes and I ran wires down the foot wells a now light in the foot wells.
    Why did you need to do this?
    The OEM Wiring harness has the wiring already in it's circuits, and it's already connected to the door switches and the dome light switch.

    E
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    I did not any in the OEM wiring harness that I saw so I ran a new one.

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    Yellow78 there is an obscured run that is unused in North American cars and tied back in the wiring harness. It is for lights in the door panels of some other regions.

    It is convenient to use but the trouble is knowing that it exists. I only learned of it last year.

    FYI: There is also an unused run to the fuel tank in some Z's.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  29. #29
    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    Look for a pair of bullet connectors taped back to the main harness rope with blue electrical tape. Same at the Fuel tank for the optional electric Fuel pump and at the front of the car for the optional Fog Lamps.

    The last two have their corresponding Fuse/Switch circuit finishers by the center console fuse box. The Fog Lamps feed off the Parking / Instrument light circuit and it is highly recommended that you use a switch to in turn operate a relay up front along with a fuse. The Fuel pump set up isn't safety wired, meaning that once you power the pump by inserting a fuse in between the connectors at the fuse box it will run continuously, so it is advisable to connect it also to a fused/relay setup but with an oil pressure (or similar device) kill switch.

    FWIW
    E
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