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Thread: SK racing carbs

  1. #1
    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Default SK racing carbs

    I just purchased a fairly cheap set of SK Racing (not oer) carbs with 62mm horns. They look good and are all intact. My first idea was to put them to my Z but i need money now more than ever...I wonder what these are worth? Not many around and Made In Japan. That should say something about the quality.
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    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    They appear to be identical to mt SK/OER triples except mine don't have the raised letters on the jet cover.
    Mine were made just after OER bought the company from SK and they were made in Japan also.
    Any chance you could take a close up pic of the stamped letters on the top?
    Thanks,
    Chris



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    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    I'd like to know a little more about these carburators. Where to get throats (or chokes?) and auxiliary venturis.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    These guys are about the only place I know of,
    Z Car Customs- JDM - HOME:
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    I wonder is there any guides or something downloadable (or for sale) anywhere... :/
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Could you tell me what that extra inlet/outlet tube is for? You (granny) have put threaded hoses to it. Is it fuel return or has it something to do with that cold start circuit?
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Koalia, I think you mean the overflow/breather tube.
    I have the SK/OER Technical Manual published in 1988,
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    Can't seem to load anymore, I'll try and put the rest up tomorrow.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Lightbulb SK Racing OER Carb Exploded Diagram

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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  11. #11
    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Thanks! I have most of the manual pages, there's at least one i don't have. One helping soul sent those to me via czcc Facebook page. What kind of linkage you use granny and whered'ya got that choke linkage? I heard that Weber linkage is not direct bolt on
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    The throttle linkage looks stock from OER but the fuel enrichment (choke) cable is a generic motorcycle type brake or clutch cable. I'll post some close up pics soon but my computer got some virus last night and self destructed, got to see if I can save any files.
    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Here is the choke cable,Click image for larger version. 

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    and this is the throttle linkageClick image for larger version. 

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    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    With slight modification to the original choke cable system, it can be used on that i suppose. Where does your breather/overflow tube go from there?
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    The breather/overflow hose is about 4" long and just clears the carb body so if there is an over flow it spills onto the heat shield. I guess those hoses could be longer like on a bike.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Okay, id love to hear any other experiences considering these carburators. Seems like there is not much of these around and all the info would be great, this thread could be modified to "general info about SK Racing carbs" thread or something
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Im looking to buy complete linkage set directly from Japan, i just cant figure out what items would i need. Can you guys help?

    OER Linkage Parts
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    What manifold are you using? If you haven't bought one yet I would go with the shortest you can find only because by the time you have horns on or air filters there is very little room left between the carbs and the shock tower/Master cylinder.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    I am curious about how well the SK carb does with the cold start circuit in cold weather? Anyone know how it works?
    granny, I always enjoy seeing Ted your cat, I like cats and he looks like a good one.
    Last edited by Mikes Z car; 08-28-2013 at 02:06 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikes Z car View Post
    I am curious about how well the SK carb does with the cold start circuit in cold weather? Anyone know how it works?
    granny, I always enjoy seeing Ted your cat, I like cats and he looks like a good one.
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ID:	65569 This will probably answer your question.

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ID:	65570 Here's Ted healing up an infected paw, the black one is Spike,still a kitten.

    Koalia, here is a link to Wolf Racing, they have some good images of linkages,
    Customer Gallery - 6 Cylinder Carb Setups
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    I have Lynx (quite short) manifold, at least its shorter than the Cannon manifold on the link you provided. It should fit quite well with the 62mm horns. Nice pictures, but there is so many kind of levers and shafts so i dont know which might be the right size, in that i was hoping you could give some measurements. I can measure the manifold etc if that helps.

    Btw Ted remotely reminds me of grumpy cat, if you have ever heard of him

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    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    I have a set of 47MM and plan to install them maybe sometime after the first of the year. I spoke with Dave Rebello and he seems to be quite knowledgeable about OER's. Also I purchased mine from PIERCE MANIFOLD out of Goleta California just north of Santa Barbara complete with the intake. About $1200.00 for everything and they have a pretty comprehensive selection of other performance parts. Good luck!
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Koalia View Post
    Nice pictures, but there is so many kind of levers and shafts so i dont know which might be the right size, in that i was hoping you could give some measurements. I can measure the manifold etc if that helps

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    Koalia, I'm happy to give you some measurements from my set up but you have to know that what I have and what you need may be two different things. Linkages by their nature are adjustable and it will probably be fine, but it also may not,
    do your research.
    Does your Lynx manifold have rod ends and a rod yet or is it bare? Can you post some pics, 5-6 with detail of the manifold and what is on it?
    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Here's some
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Koalia, just looking at your cold start levers, I think you'll need to reverse those so they open in the other direction,
    your technical manual explains how to do that. It's not hard.
    From your pics your intake manifold appears to be the standard depth, if the length of the runners from flat to flat are about 13.5 cm. then that is standard not short. No big deal just know that by the time you get air filters on it gets a bit tight for room.
    Your last pic shows that you have rod ends already, if you use those rod ends then the rod and levers you buy will have to be the same diameter.
    The OER site your buying from doesn't have a lot of description on their linkage parts and they don't seem to sell
    the intercouple linkage that is missing from your carbs, see it here, WEBER DCOE INTERCOUPLE LINKAGE
    PM3718

    You might want to look at a linkage kit like this, UNIVERSAL LINKAGE KIT
    PM3701-L

    I would order one more rod end then they have in the kit but the rest of it seems to be there.

    So here are my measurements, main rod, 8mm dia, 50cm. length,
    rod levers approx 5.2cm centre to centre,
    turnbuckle, 9.5 cm centre to centre, so something like, JPS adjustable rod
    75500.100

    intercoupe linkage, 4.1 cm C/C

    Are you also going to overhaul the carbs while you have them out on your bench? You won't find a better time than now.
    I just installed my SK/OER triples and sofar every thing is running smoothly,
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    I just previewed this and I don't know where the RED came from, I must have hit some key I shouldn't have.
    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Maybe it was Ted who highlighted it for you? Nice info Granny, i have set of new gaskets directly from OER, only 40 bucks (including shipping!) So far the old gaskets look nice and shiny, so im not gonna change them yet. Atm i have smallest main jets possible(?) (115) but im sure they will be changed to bigger ones. That universal system looks legit, i'll have to compare prices.


    I'd love see close up pic how you connected the oem linkage to triple setup
    Last edited by Reverend; 09-05-2013 at 02:33 AM.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    You can see where I cut and welded the two ends together, This is only temporary until I can get the Lokar cable back on.
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    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Thats nice, i should do something similar, though i dont have extra rod to destroy/no welding skills. Gotta figure it out.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Pick up one on ebay, measure the angle before cutting, cut to fit, find some metal tubing to fit as a sleeve over top of both ends, drill and insert roll pins or even screws. Sand, fill and paint. : )
    Here is a bit of inspiration,
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    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Just got a set of use SK Racing 40's... The PO has broken the inspection bolt off one of the progression holes....I looked at the remnants and it seems like there is some sort of substance between the threads and body? I am wondering if the factory use a sealant or if a wise PO used something like JB weld? Arggggghhh
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Blue, the only thing the factory would have used is a thin rubber O ring, that might be a hard tap to find.
    Congrats on your buy, with all your carb knowledge I'll be interested to hear what you have to say about the rebuild and the performance.
    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Copied from the net:

    The following SK Carburetor parts are interchangeable with the Weber DCOE carburetors:
    • Main jets
    • Air correctors
    • Idle jets
    • Emulsion tubes
    • Pump exhaust valves
    • Pump rod, spring and piston
    • Auxiliary venturis (45 DCOE only)



    The following are interchangeable with Mikuni PHH late model carburetors:

    • Pump jets (Mikuni calls these pump nozzles)
    • Floats
    • Needle Valves
    • Fuel Union Banjos (I think Mikuni calls these Fuel Pipe Assembly)



    Another:

    I have a set of triple sk carbs on my 3.0 liter stroker motor and I love them.They have the same Idle jets,main,air,jets as the weber dcoe.The pump jet and needle and seat are mikuni parts.You can not get the main chokes and aux venturi in the USA any more.You might be able to find a used set .I had to bore out my main chokes to 34mm at the machine shop ( it was cheap though) I have talked to the people at twm induction (who supplied these carbs in 1992 (they were the biggest suppliers of these sk carbs in the USA they can still get the gaskets for these carbs.I ordered a set of these gaskets back in december and never got the gaskets but I was able to make my own.The guy I talked to told me that the SK carbs were very good carbs and easy to work on and he was right .He also said that these carbs were better than weber and as good as mikuni at top end .I had a set of 72 su carbs on the 3.0 liter stroker before I put the sk carbs on and the power was ok but I thought it needed more so I bought these carbs and now the power in unreal ! The idle sucked on the su carbs I would not idle below 1400 rpm and now it Idle perfect at 900 rpm (I have a huge cam 496 lift and 290 duration) The gas mileage has improved and I am very happy now they are almost tuned correctly .


    Another:

    Yes, that was the great compromise: the later style SK utilized the superior accel pump design of the Mukini, with the jets/emulsion tubes of the Weber. More like a racing version of the Mikuini (which the Weber was modeled after: the German Solex!) Webers just never worked right with that small pump they had, but the SK had a big shot when you mashed it, unlike the Webers. Just more volume for transition. That's why you can jet down Mikuinis and SK's and get decent gas mileage and still have a car that dosent't buck and pop in transition and light cruise.
    And by decent mileage, I mean 28MPG at a steady 65 from LA to Phoenix in a car with 1:1 top gear and a tight rearend! Weber just don't do that...
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

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    Blue, where do you find this stuff? I've googled these carbs a dozen times and never come across those quotes.
    I happened to meet the master mechanic (he's about our age) at Woodbine Nissan a couple of weeks back at a show n shine and what he had to say about Weber, Mikuni and SK was pretty much the same as the 2 quotes you listed.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    I'm just a data geek at heart.

    I think it would be good for us to post all data to this thread. if you can scan the sk manual into a pdf that would be a good nugget'o knowledge.

    btw the more we enhance this site's content, the more people will come to it and in turn the more revenue for the admin. It is a good thing for all
    Last edited by Blue; 09-17-2013 at 04:24 AM.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Data

    SK40

    • inlet dia = 43mm
    • outet dia = 40mm


    TWM manifold

    • inlet dia = 42mm
    • outlet dia = 33 to 35mm (variable numbers.....could use a clean up)
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Any tips on removing the accelerator pump rod assembly in SK's?

    It looks like a weber assembly except for the extra tab on the top that looks like it is pinned down with a peened rod in parallel with the pump rod?

    Parts 50 and 51 in the exploded drawing above.

    btw these carbs are almost at the point of a tough return... it takes a lot of coaxing to unstick some of the parts due to old gas, glue-like gaskets and corrosion. At least the throttle plates move nicely!
    Last edited by Blue; 09-17-2013 at 10:01 AM.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  37. #37
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    Blue, I can't help you on the accelerator pump, mine where working well so I didn't dig in there.
    I have found plain old methyl hydrate is the best stuff for dissolving all that gum, works like magic.
    Then I pull out these puppies,
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    Everytime I go to the dentist I ask if he has any dental tools they are throwing away and he always has a few for me. They my not be new enough to use on teeth but they perfect cleaning carbs and they are free.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

  38. #38
    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    I just had flashback when i saw your picture. For some reason my jaw began to hurt...

    Good info Blue!

    And guess what, i just uploaded the PDF manual.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/96qmbxwgf8...s%20Manual.pdf
    Blue likes this.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Default Triple SK carbs

    I read this thread yesterday and was going to post the manual but it looks like it's already been done. Here's a recent photo of mine. I paid $800 for them including the intake. They are 45mm and I have about 8 hours worth of cleaning into them. I noticed that like a photo posted above, mine don't have any model # stamps on the top plates. The 2.9L engine is fairly modified (check my build thread for specs) and they seem to do ok. They are even running admirably on the factory mechanical fuel pump. I plan to go with a Mazda RX7 unit when I find one. I have some vacuum leaks I'm dealing with right now, and timing is still set by ear.

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    Does anyone know where to find the SK sight tool or another method of setting the floats to factory specs?
    http://www.hookit.com/members/triingsoldier/

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    73str86, I have an SK fuel level sight tube tool in the mail on its way to me right now, I'll post pics when I get it.
    I purchased it from, Z Car Customs- JDM - HOME: Brian is a really good guy to work with. It's more than a bit pricey at $75 plus shipping from Japan for an eye dropper with gradations but to get the float level PERFECT you need it. I set my float levels by using a vernier caliper and the tech manual and engine runs well except it doesn't like to start which is indicative of the wrong float level, ...so I bought the tool.
    I'm sure once I get my float levels set that I will be mailing this tool around the continent to others if you are interested.
    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Just ordered some parts from Japan:
    - 6mm insulating spacers
    - 3 rebuild kits
    - part #60

    Took the carbs apart.... starting to clean. Yeah.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Quote Originally Posted by grannyknot View Post
    Blue, the only thing the factory would have used is a thin rubber O ring, that might be a hard tap to find.
    Congrats on your buy, with all your carb knowledge I'll be interested to hear what you have to say about the rebuild and the performance.
    Chris
    UPDATE:

    Thanks Chris! I used a DENTAL TOOL-like instrument to pluck out the rubber ring (as you expertly guessed). Some liquid wrench and a healthy hammer via a punch loosed up the remnants of that progression hole screw-cap. Did it on my lunch break.

    I have now completely disassembled the 3 carbs. The only casualty is the loss of one of the secondary small springs in the adjacent arm of the pump rod. I am not sure if it was there in the first place.

    I like the 50 DCO style throttle valve return spring.

    Getting the aux venturi and venturi out was challenging for 4 of the 6 throats (2 came out with finger pulls, the other 4 needed taps on the aux venturi cross brace to drive out like a wheel bearing race from a hub. Some corrosion seems to be the cause. I'll lube when I rebuild.

    I also have a question about the big screw at the bottom of the fuel area (you have to remove the bottom plate to see it)? Is it a stop for the main jets?

    The quality and precision of the metal work is much better than the DCOE's I have worked on.
    Last edited by Blue; 09-20-2013 at 10:49 AM.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Blue, I didn't open those covers, #78 because I didn't have new paper gaskets but the big screw may be nothing more than a plug covering an access hole used for machining purposes, it is not listed on the exploded diagram and that may be the reason.

    "The quality and precision of the metal work is much better than the DCOE's I have worked on."
    I agree and without a doubt the founders of SK were racers using Webers on their cars and got tired of tearing them open to change anything.
    Finally they said "We can do better than this, we can improve on this design" and they did.
    I've heard Weber sued (as they had every right to) and part of the settlement was that SK could openly advertise in Japan but no where else. They could ship anywhere in the world but "dealers" couldn't carry any stock so as to inconvenience the buyer.
    I have done some hunting and have found very little info on the company and most of what I know is heresay from old mechanics.
    Chris
    Reverend likes this.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    By the way, ive ordered the paper gaskets straight from the factory shop, very fast and very cheap. Also they have very polite customer service, i guess its kinda culture related too to be superduper polite.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    I found out what that screw in the bottom does! It holds the central jet holder assembly into the carb body. there are O rings in this unit that would probably dissolve with carb cleaner.

    I noticed the part had separated while bathing in methal hydrate as you recommended.

    Thanks again Chris!
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Just a warning to anyone reading this thread! Methal Hydrate although one of the milder cleaners does react with certain material! I'm not a chemist, just a backyard mechanic with some experience and I have found that med-long term contact between MH and rubber, SOME gasoline rated rubber (neoprene) and aluminum is not good. I'm not concerned with legalities,
    I just don't want anyone reading this thread to go and soak their carb in MH and think they can pull it out and use it.
    Short contact with MH, no more then a minute, (I keep mine in a common utility spray bottle) is fine as it evaporates very quickly. If your carb is old and dirty it needs a rebuild.

    Blue, what part seperated?
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    The big cluster that holds the jets... it looks like a tower of aluminum.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    So I just received my new SK float level sight tube, costly but very nicely made, apparently it can be used on Webers and Solex carbs as well. All of my fuel levels were 2-4mm too low.

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    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Do you set ii into the jet well or do you have to thread it all the way down? It appears that you cover the hole on the top of tool and then check the fuel level trapped by the vacuum. Is that correct?
    Charles

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    you just place it in the hole, put your finger over the breather hole on top and pull it out and read it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Patcon View Post
    Do you set ii into the jet well or do you have to thread it all the way down? It appears that you cover the hole on the top of tool and then check the fuel level trapped by the vacuum. Is that correct?
    Charles
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Very cool. Nice, simple and repeatable I like that.
    Charles

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    My friend is making these awesome looking heat shields, im getting one too. They look nice and shiny + they are affordable. If you guys are interested, you can contact him directly to zaanou@gmail.com
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    I am interested....how much?

    Can he put a thermal brake between the bolt holes and the rest of the sheet?
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Umm im not sure what you mean (lost in translation) but price for these babies should be around 80 bucks + postage. Thats what i call cheap!
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Thanks!

    Anything bolted to the head transfers heat. That is why carbs have insulators.

    A heat shield would work better if it was not directly bolted to the head. Thermal insulators would help a lot in the design.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



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    These guys are great! キャブレター,インジェクション,エアクリーナー[OER:オーイーアール]キャブレター

    They rushed my shipment of parts and also included a present of some special parts and some they thought I missed ordering:

    The special O-rings for the well towers, return springs and well tower screws!

    I highly recommend this company and SK Racing/OER carbs!

    Chris..got your gaskets and O-rings!
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

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    I also did order from them, most pleasant customer service. Not directly related to SK-carbs but kinda: I wonder do you guys have any pics/hints how to handle block breather? Do you put k/n filter on there or? I heard some guys have made special "jar" or container that collects the overflowing oil/exhaust material.

    edit. they send me full list of parts what i need for the linkage! yay.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    It's called a Snot can, Allstar Performance - racing and high performance car parts, accessories and specialty tools.
    it catches oil and lets smoke and water vapour escape, but I'm not sure if our blocks breathe in or out.
    I tie-wrapped a couple of layers of bug screen over mine and it seems to be fine.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    As far as i know, it breathes out, and in SU's the vapors are delivered back to the intake manifold. It takes fresh air in from the valve cover, as you know.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Unless you set up a draft pipe to send the gas and oil under the car, you will have a dirty and oily engine compartment if you just let the vapours exit the block and breather. Recycling to the intake manifold or exhaust pipe is cleaner.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Almost related to the topic but didnt want to flood the site with my "asking stupid questions" threads: i looked into few options and it seems that the wire controlled throttle is easiest and cheapest to do. I wonder does anyone sell "ready to go" sets for Z? Also if not, is there any good write-ups about doing one?
    My SK's are going in this month and i hope to fire them up before first snow falls.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

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    Sheesh! Thanks for the links! Too bad there aint no "plug and play" options on this one.. It would be too easy then!
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Maybe get a motorcycle mechanic to build one. They do a lot of clutch and brake cables which are similar.

    I fould this:
    McKinney Throttle Cable and Bracket - Datsun 240Z S30 - Raw Brokerage

    Another partial kit:
    Throttle Cable Conversion Kit - Interest? Does not require a different Throttle Body - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z

    A great DIY:
    CABLE_INSTALL
    Last edited by Blue; 10-15-2013 at 04:09 AM.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Default Some interesting design aspects of OER SK Racing carbs

    Each throat has a brass stub to block a choke from sliding back and hanging up the throttle plate.
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    3 progression holes precisely drilled in a line
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    A ported vacuum hole (left of the progression holes). I think this will improve highway mpg as it is located where the throttle plate will be when cruising.
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    Dual rod accelerator pump with brass cylinder wall sleeves
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    Return spring similar to DCO50/55's
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    Last edited by Blue; 10-16-2013 at 06:06 AM.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

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    Default SK Racing OER removable jet tower casting

    Jet tower casting

    Note the rubber figure 8 O-rings that could dissolve in carb cleaner.

    The passage to the main circuit's aux venturi is ~23.5 mm down from the top ledge.

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    Carb body with the jet tower removed.The tower is keyed and slides in. A screw in the bottom secures it.

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    The body casting has holes on each side for accessories. A nice throttle return spring and bracket is typically attached here. the other side could hold a heat reflecting shield.
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    There are 3 retaining holes for the venturi/choke, aux venturi, and front tube.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Blue; 10-16-2013 at 06:17 AM.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

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    Default Side Draft Fuel Level Settings

    Quote Originally Posted by grannyknot View Post
    So I just received my new SK float level sight tube, costly but very nicely made, apparently it can be used on Webers and Solex carbs as well. All of my fuel levels were 2-4mm too low.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I saw this on an excellent Japanese racing/tuning site (http://www.carry-back.com):

    MFGR CARB Fuel Level from top
    SOLEX (Mikuni PHH) 4 type 40φ 44φ 19-20

    50φ 20-21
    WEBER DCOE 8, 9 29

    DCOE 152,151 29
    OER 40φ 45φ 47φ 50φ 29-31


    On a 240z resto, and my first kick-at-the-can of webers, I set DCOE 152's at 25mm (high fuel level) as per Keith Franke. It seems to bring the main in earlier and i run leaner idles than most report.

    As mentioned above, the OER 40mm overflow point in the well is ~ 23.5mm down from the ledge compared to a weber's 23mm as reported by Keith Franke.

    So it seems the Carry-Back site sets the fuel ~6mm below the main jet well's overflow/spill point compared to Keith Franke's 2mm-below-overflow.

    The Carry-Back site discusses acceleration and fuel sloshing so a lower fuel level may be better for racing and high-g driving.
    Last edited by Blue; 10-17-2013 at 01:28 AM.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

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    Question Side Draft Idle Enrichment Screw Settings

    The same tuning site gives these idle enrichment screw settings:

    MFGR Idle Screw
    SOLEX40φ, 44φ (4 type)   2 turns ア 90 ー
    SOLEX (Mikuni PHH) 50φ 1/2 turn ア 90 ー
    WEBER DCOE 152,151 2 to 3 turns
    WEBER DCOE 9, 50φ 1/2 to 1 turn
    OER   2 turns ア 180 ー
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



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    Default

    Philip,

    Is there a Japanese to English translation of:

    ガレージ キャリーバック ????
    Original Registration and Warranty Card

    Original owner of: HLS3018859 (Jan./71) ZCOOR Member # 178

    'Storms Never Last'

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    Philip,

    Is there a Japanese to English translation of the info at: carryback.com?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. 240Z View Post
    Philip,

    Is there a Japanese to English translation of:

    ƒKƒŒーƒW ƒLƒƒƒŠーƒoƒbƒN ????
    Original Registration and Warranty Card

    Original owner of: HLS3018859 (Jan./71) ZCOOR Member # 178

    'Storms Never Last'

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. 240Z View Post
    Philip,

    Is there a Japanese to English translation of the info at: carryback.com?
    Google Chrome translates automatically. Google used to have a great translate tool but it has been dumbed down and works much worse than what they use in chrome.... the web was taken from us geeks!

    Here is a watered down Google translation


    http://translate.google.ca/translate...carry-back.com
    Last edited by Blue; 10-17-2013 at 02:29 AM.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Google Translation to English

    ** There can be different from the setting value of the actual are the manufacturer standard value. It's become a symptom, for example, such as stalled as "Gobogobo~tsu" when intense lateral G took it cry almost necessarily bite the air, "the waterfall climb carp" intense length, with lateral G in the hall led to the center venturi

    To go sucked (the only gasoline) product gas that is a state, it is considered a symptom caused to become "dark" state time.

    It is not so that does not reach the hole down the oil surface As a workaround, but the numerical values ​​we try to avoid here value because it also involved in (condition over the next G) ride of the people.

    To say that the lower the oil level, please also consider the connection to the main is also a little slower.

    There is a difference of reaction to G in any vertical cab or horizontally. ← here Add
    photo-4




    My Interpretation:

    Intense lateral G force and cause fuel to rises up inside the carb and flow into the passage leading to the center venture.

    This fuel-only entering the main circuit's aux venturi causes a rich period.

    To prevent this, our work-around is to recommend lowering the fuel level based on the G loading of the individual痴 driving and G forces in the carb.

    Please also note that lower fuel levels will also delay the main circuit starting.

    The reaction to lateral G force is different between vertical(side-draft) and horizontal (down-draught) carbs
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Again blue, thanks for tonload of information!!
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Here is my setup installed, all i need is fuel pump and linkage... waiting for reply from OER.
    Blue likes this.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Didn't see any Sk history but to help get some info
    I copied over sone tidbits from the oer webpage.
    1966 Established 鉄K Engineering Ltd.
    Developed 殿ir governor for automotive pollution control.
    Received formal test reports (of the air governor) from AIST (Agency of Industrial Science and Technology) of MITI (Japanese Ministry of International Trade and Industry).
    1970 Developed fuel acceleration feed system of internal-combustion engine.
    1972 Acquired patent registration No.753500 for automotive compensator during low-load operation condition.
    1974 Acquired petty patent No.1193868 for combustion pressure unit for automobile.
    1978 Acquired petty patent No.1247406 for automotive adjusting device during low-load operation condition.
    Acquired petty patent No.1255374 for overflow type carburetor.
    1979 Developed SK turbo kit. Started production and sales of the kit.
    1981 Applied 13 patents for SK turbo kit.
    1983 Started to develop OER carburetor.
    1986 Developed and completed OER carburetor.
    1987 Developed various kinds of OER carburetor kits.
    1991 Established 徹ER Corporation.
    1992 Developed and completed OER throttle body.
    1993 Developed various kinds of sports injection kits.
    1994 Developed and completed B16A sports injection kit.
    Developed and completed DRC full computer.
    1996 Developed and completed AE101 direct air system.
    1998 Developed and completed PS13 carburetor kit.
    1999 Developed and completed MPC fuel increasing and decreasing device.
    2001 Developed and completed VTC valve timing controller.
    2003 Developed and completed NA6CE sports injection kit.
    2004 Developed and completed idle up kit.

    I'm happy to see more people are using Sk/oer Carbs.
    I have a set of sk 45 units with matching sk manifold and my roomate has oer 45 units with a mikuni manifold. We love these carbs. I will be doing a blow through setup with mine using an Hks surge tank. I have been searching for an sk unit but have come up short.
    Last edited by mildsquare; 11-01-2013 at 12:33 AM.

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    Good info and good luck with those. Remember to post (a lot of) pictures of your setup. I just noted, my first post was about selling these and now i have installed them in my Z, what the hell happened?
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Default some sk linkage photos

    Click image for larger version. 

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    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  79. #79
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    Koalia, VERY pretty! Did you take pics while you disassembled and cleaned? Are you going to add air filter screens or "suck dirty" ? I saw 2 Z cars at shows this summer that had no air filtering of any kind and it wasn't just for the show, they drove that way all the time. Couldn't do it myself.

    mildsquare, great info, I've had a hard time finding history on this company and it's nice to see this stuff ending up in one place.

    Blue, did you take those pics while you were in Japan?
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    just hoovered from the net....I may put more up in this thread
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    By chance would any one know if a webber dcoe throttle shaft would fit an sk? One of my carbs, shafts is bent and the throttle plate started digging into the carb itself. Not too bad, but enough for me to take it off and go with another unit.
    Last edited by mildsquare; 11-02-2013 at 10:54 PM.

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    I'll have a look today.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    You will have to check with someone who has dcoe45's. dcoe 40's are no go.

    I just checked dcoe 40's with my sk40's and the sk's have a thicker shaft with the 4 plate screw holes having different spacing. The end fasteners seem 1mm bigger on sk's.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  84. #84
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    mildsquare, ask Brian at Z Car Customs- JDM - HOME: how much it would cost from Japan, I think you might be surprised how cheap it can be, the price for parts are reasonable. Your looking for part #64
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Quote Originally Posted by grannyknot View Post
    Koalia, VERY pretty! Did you take pics while you disassembled and cleaned? Are you going to add air filter screens or "suck dirty" ? I saw 2 Z cars at shows this summer that had no air filtering of any kind and it wasn't just for the show, they drove that way all the time. Couldn't do it myself.
    I did open them up but they were quite clean, so i did not do anything to them. I have set of new gaskets ready to go if the old ones (which look quite new) starts to leak. Im looking for decent priced air filters as we speak, i wonder if these are any good or should i go with the "traditional" style filters: 2 x RAMAIR Carb Sock Air Filters Double Trumpet Weber DCOE Dellorto DHLA CS-901 | eBay
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Those foam filters look great and a lot easier to get on and off then the K&N filters.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Thanks blue! Thanks Grannyknot! I bout my surge tank fron Brian. I'll have to contact him. I found a set of 45's i'm just waiting for them. Once the car is up and running i'll try and fix the down carb.

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    Here is a pic of the tank setup. I bought the carbs with a twm manifold but as you can see it's too long and brings the surge tank inlet too close to the shock tower. The sk manifold remedied this but stil isn't as short as a mikuni manifold.

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    According to the manual, there is "another cam" for cold start circuit, dang.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Hey all, my oer's came in. Older set from JP. Just wanted to let every one know some tidbits I discovered that Might not have been covered, if they have sorry for the double posting.
    Well i made 2 carbs into 1 by utilizing my top half and a working bottom half. What I found out was Oer has 2 types of
    Jet tower setups. A stnd mikuni jetting style and a weber type. The sk set on my car are weber style but the newer oer set are the newere stnd type. They do not interchange and you need to use one or the other.
    Its an easy fix by swapping jet towers,but if you want to order a new set or find a used set ask the seller or specify what type of jettings it uses. So you can plan accordingly.

    Type stnd or
    Type w.

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    Well that's interesting, it would be good know when that change took place.
    Any chance you could post some pics of your jet towers and the rest of us could do the same? But then SK may have just changed the Dia. of the hole and thread size and not changed the outer appearance, worth I try.
    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Yup, will take pics tomorrow. The towers are the same on the outside. The emulsion tube holes are def different dia. The weber tubes will thread in but not rest like the sk tube and cause the main jet to get stuck. Not that I'd know what a pita that's like lol.

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    Sorry for the late reply.



    Weber style on left oer type on right.



    Weber style



    Oer style

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    So here are mine, the air jet looks like your second photo so I guess that is a Mikuni style of jet, but my idle jet holder is just slotted like on the blown up parts diagram and not like yours. I'm pretty sure my carbs were purchased in 1999 new from OER.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Just like z's, same body different little bits. Good thing more of us are using these and info is flowing in.

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    It's so friggin cold out in the garage even with the heater on full that I'm trying to do small jobs that don't take too long.
    SK/OER carbs have this 1/2" dia hole on the face of the intake, a breather of some kind. We have a lot of pollen bees around our property and they are forever looking for any hole they can plug up with mud, eggs, larva and more mud so this is what I came up with to try and defeat them,
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    So far they feel pretty secure.
    Man, it must be January if I think this is worth posting.
    Blue likes this.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Default Greetings from Poland!

    Hi, my name is Hubert and I'm from Poland.
    I do not own any model of "Z" unfortunately (but I've seen a 240Z in my life and I surely won't forget how it looked, sounded and speeded down the racetrack), but I have two SK 40 DCOE Racing Carburetors mounted on my Vaz Lada 2107 car

    I don't know if I'm posting my message in a good place (if not, then please redirect me to where I can get suitable information).

    Engine specs of my Lada are:
    4cyl OHC 1.3L shortrodded to 1578cc.
    High compression (though not measured)
    Sporty camshaft 316/304 (valve timing set up according to tuner's info)
    Harder valve springs.
    Electric fuel pump 0.25bar 65L/h
    4-1 freeflow exhaust designed and made to get use of 316/304 cam.

    Engine starts up ok, idles somehow good (engine shakes a bit, yet has constant revs).
    Real problems start when I rapidly open the throttle... takes more than a second to rev up and when engine finally revs it blows a cloud of black smoke through the exhaust. When I open the throttle gently it's all ok.
    Another bigger problem is at high revs... I don't even reach them, because no matter how wide throttle is opened engine won't rev more than 4500rpm... only roars louder through the air horns.

    I somehow tuned it "by ear", but I know it's not the way it should be... and it didn't solved problems mentioned above. I even don't have any manual on how to tune it and link in this thread doesn't work

    Below there's a video I made to somehow illustrate my problem.
    Please don't mind clanging of the valve levers... Engine runs the same even when gaps are precisely set up.

    Some people told me, the ignition timing is off and vacuum ignition accelerator is connected to wrong place; that fuel pump delivers too little fuel for high revs; that carbs are dirty and/or damaged; that jets, choke sleeves and other replaceable stuff doesn't match the engine... all this just makes me crazy, cause I don't know how to diagnose the real problem sources and how to deal with them. Visiting other forums and sites clears my thoughts on how a sidedraft racecarb should work, but brings even more useless information (or no information at all) on how to deal with certain problems.

    Your forum looks like the only one, that has competent users... not wizards that even don't know there are such carbs, like SK/OER.

    Ok, here's the video

    I'd really appreciate any help... and any way to obtain certain parts that could match my carbs to my engine.

    Cheers .
    Hubert.

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    Welcome Hubert!

    What are the internal component sizes (jets, choke (venturi), air correctors, emulsion tube)?

    What is your fuel level?

    Do you have a way of balancing air flow?

    Read this to get up to speed on how side drafts work: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/c...pposition.html
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


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    Oh, that explained to me a lot more, than other sources, that were way bigger. Thanks, now I know how things are named

    I don't know how to measure the fuel level... If someone would tell me what distance should be from the top cover (not the jet cover) to the fuel level, than I would set it to 29mm as it was earlier posted in this thread.

    Err what's balancing air flow? You mean synchronising carbs using vacuum meter? I don't have a VM, but I will buy myself one soon.

    I took off the jet cover and unscrewed them.



    Accelerator jets are numbered "40".

    I somehow measured the venturis, but it's a +\- 1mm tolerance, cause carbs were still mounted to the engine and there was no way to measure it with a caliper.


    All the elements have the same symbols, none of them is different, but right carb had emulsion tubes already unscrewed and one jet helder was in the float chamber (!), while the second one was angled and the screwthread on the jet block was somehow damaged, but I repaired that.

    I didn't run the engine after I bolted back stuff togetger, because of what I found during camshaft gap regulation...




    It terrified me... Those were new parts and the car ran only 11km after engine rebuild.

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    Other thing is I don't know If I should link my ignition vacuum advancer before or after the throttle? There is a small pipe near the progression holes' screw, but I don't know if it's for regulation or for the ignition vacuum advance purposes?

    Oh and I found that those accelerator jets are squirting fuel like mad... even when slow throttle opening. I have to almost unscrew the pump spring screw completely for the engine to not overfuel it.

    I also didn't unscrew the Back-Bleed/Spill Jet, because I didn't take the whole carb apart... I'm afraid I'll loose some kind of small yet vital part and I'll make the carb useless.
    Last edited by Ladashnikov; 05-09-2014 at 12:53 PM.

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