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Thread: Just installed wiring harness

  1. #1
    Registered User esmit208's Avatar
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    Default Just installed wiring harness

    Hello crowd
    I know its been a while but I have been trying to get #6333 back on the road again after a main harness fire back in 2005. I was able to scavenge an exact copy of a good unmolested harness from an early 1972. #6333 was built in the spring of 1970 but the harness is the exact same. After many weeks of of cleaning the harness up an soldering some ragged spots and recovering it I have it installed and all connections completed. I put a battery in it this morning but nothing inside works. No lights, the starter does not turn over, no brake lights, NO NOTHING. Can someone shed some light on something I may have missed. At the moment I am at work and it is really bugging me. I hoped at least the dashboard gauge lights would work. I'm really stoked to almost be able to drive it again after almost 8 years of garage life. Any assistance would be appreciated. BTW the fuse box gets power but the power does not seem to be going past the fuse box. Currently I have the factory fuse box installed but an upgrade to an MSA box is on the near horizon. If anyone has a hint you can also e-mail me at edtwomuchz@gmail.com
    THANX
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

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    Is every thing plugged into the harness? Even the rear harness sections that go down the passenger frame rail?
    Charles

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    Registered User esmit208's Avatar
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    YES but I will give another check on Saturday
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

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    I found that my 73 won't crack if all of that is not hooked up. Also make sure all the small connections at the passenger kick panel are correct. Will it crank over with a remote starter or screwdriver short on the starter? Is the harness well grounded to the firewall near the battery?
    C

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    Check your grounds.
    -Bo

    1972 240z - Not original and still not done.
    "Something wicked this way comes...."

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    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm View Post
    Check your grounds.
    What he said^
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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    Registered User esmit208's Avatar
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    Thanks guys
    All grounds were checked and checked again. Strange though I tested with a test light and only 2 fuses are getting power. The fusible link running from the started to the main harness is the only thing inside the.car getting power. Even the red and white wire that screws into The back of the fuse box gets NO POWER. Where is Dave when you need him. If anyone sees or talks to him ask him to read my thread and contact me. 772-205-4349. That is Dave from Marysville Washington. AKA ZsOndaBrain. Once again thanks
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

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    HLS30A 17574 djwarner's Avatar
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    Examine the back side of the fuse panel for corrosion. First things first, power comes in through the white and white-red wires. When checking voltage, use a chassis ground. If you have no voltage anywhere, check the ground cable from the battery. If you are finding voltage on some fuse terminal and not others, turn on the ignition switch and retry. If you have voltage on some and not others, suspect corrosion in the fuse panel.
    1971 240Z HLS30A 17574 L24-021025

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    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    Do some continuity checks on the the power wires. Amp meter hooked up?
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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    Quote Originally Posted by esmit208 View Post
    Thanks guys
    Even the red and white wire that screws into The back of the fuse box gets NO POWER.
    As madkaw asked, is your ammeter hooked up and if so, is it functional? The R/W wire will only get power if the ammeter is hooked up/functional. The R/W does not get power from the fuse box.
    -Bo

    1972 240z - Not original and still not done.
    "Something wicked this way comes...."

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    Ammeter is hooked up but I might have to pull the dashboard out again to check it as it is almost impossible to do a thourough check when trying to work under the dash iin these cars. The dashboard was out of the car when the dashboard section of the harness was installed. I will have to remove it again to do an inspection. No rust on the fuse box but it is the factoryt unit and 41 years old. The main red and white wire that screws into the back of it is not getting power either. But thanks to everyone who offered input. I will let you all know how it goes. If anyone can come up with anything else please feel free to email me at edtwomuchz@gmail.com
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

  12. #12
    Registered User esmit208's Avatar
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    Also one other question is it possible to test the ammeter for functionality? I.E. Does it actually work without the car running?
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    A functioning ammeter always "works" in that it will measure the current flowing through it. When all of the circuits on the alternator side of the ammeter are off (and the car is off), there is no current flowing for it to measure. (This is a simplified view of things for clarity's sake.)

    If the meter is blown, the connection is open. In this case, circuits that hang off of the white/red wire would not work with the car off. This includes the headlights and parking lights to mention a couple of obvious ones.

    How to diagnose? the easiest way is to pull the ammeter and replace it with a shunt (piece of wire). If the headlights work with the shunt and not with the ammeter, the ammeter is bad. (They can be repaired, though.)
    You can also test the ammeter by itself out of the car. Let me know if you are interested in trying that, and I'll draw up the circuit for you.
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

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    SteveJ,
    If I can ask, to test the ammeter do you have to take it apart? I have one to test but don't know how to put 45 amps through it to test.
    Mike

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    To test it, you don't need to take it apart; just take it out of the dash. A bad ammeter will act as an open circuit. You can test it with a 12VDC source and a test light.

    I suggest using two lantern batteries wired in series for the 12VDC source. Wire the positive to the positive on the ammeter. Wire the negative of the ammeter the test light, and touch the other end of the test light to the negative on the battery string. If the lamp lights, the ammeter is good, just not necessarily accurate.

    If you want to test accuracy, use the 12 VDC source with at least a 500W rheostat. The 500W will allow about 41A before you exceed its rating. Unfortunately, 500W rheostats are pretty pricey. The cheapest I could find in a quick search was $165.
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    73 240Z
    74 260Z

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    Registered User esmit208's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve I will give it a shot and post my results
    "HAPPINESS"....isn't just around the corner......"HAPPINESS"....is the CORNER"

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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    If you can wait until the weekend, I have a spare ammeter, and I can fabricate the circuit and take pictures of it for a reference.
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

    Blue's collection of tech tips - A great place to look for answers
    XenonS30 -The cheap source for FSMs
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