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Thread: Starting a new project...Subaru STI Differential swap into my Z

  1. #101
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    madkaw

    I got the pinion nut on the front of the diff off easy enough with my impact. However, the Yoke that is splined onto it is not budging an inch. Is there a secondary retention method on that thing, or is the yoke on the front of the diff that the drive shaft bolts to, really that tight!! I have had a sledge and screwdriver on it, and it did not even think about coming lose.

    I really do not want to pull the diff back out, but did you use a puller? OR did your front yoke just slide off.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

  3. #103
    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    It's probably not going to take much , but DON'T pry on it. Use a puller, it will pop pretty easy, but prying will not get you anywhere.
    Any puller that you can make work.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

  4. #104
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Yeah, it would seem a puller is in my near future. I may just go buy one. I have needed one many times. Lets just hope I can get one in there with the DIFF installed.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    I had one hell of a time getting my RT mount in aswell, it was a very tight fit. One thing I would suggest doing as a safety precaution would be to measure the rotating torque of the pinion before removing the nut and tighten to the same spec. While doing my r200 swap I replaced my pinion flange seal and even made a punch mark on the nut before removal so I could re install to the same mark, but I decided to ignore the mark I made and follow the torque spec in the fsm which resulted in the nut being about 1/8th of a turn tighter and with in a few days of driving I had a nice humming diff. The pinion bearings were toast so out came the diff again for a rebuild!

  6. #106
    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    Harbor freight ? Get a 3 finger puller- universal type
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

  7. #107
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Okay well I left a beautiful set of 11s on the road this morning. Got up early, took the day off and finished up on the Z! HUZZAH

    The puller did the trick I am happy to say. THE rest was just bolting up parts and she was off.

    LEt me tell you though. The sound that thing made backing up the first time was NOT a good one. IT sounded rough, like the LSD was not happy to be spinning under load or something. NO idea what it was, but I drove her gingerly around the block Just listening. My diff whine that I had for ever slowly vanished. The thing runs quiet now as far as I can tell. Backing up into the garage was silent as a mouse. So I looked for leaks and took her back out again, this time determined to break it. IF she is going to break let it be close to the house right.

    Pulled out on the highway and just floored it in 1st. The car jumped sideways and pulled like a damn train. leaving two lines behind me. Yeah… um that was fun. Those 3.90 gear really wake up that L28. She gets into her rev range very quickly now. I shifted into 2nd and 3rd very hard and I do think I have a clunk now. I may have not adjusted my RT mount right, or I cut too much off and it is the metal cross member on the RT mount. NOt a big deal. lowering the front of the diff is hardly an issue.

    So over all I am thrilled. Only now I have mysteriously developed a wicked shimmy in the front end.

    I thought it could be from the tires sitting so long, but it has never been right since I took it to Nissan to have an alignment done. So a more thorough investigation is needed.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  8. #108
    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    It's nice how the gears will change the personality of your drive. Stepping out the rear is fun too!
    When you go back under there recheck every bolt. 1/2 turn loose on the diff cover/moustache bar or LCA will cause a clunk.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

  9. #109
    Registered User Hunter260Z's Avatar
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    Please tell us how many RPM's you turning at 40,60,80mph in 4th gear.
    Ray
    1974 Datson 260Z
    RLS30-27748 Matching #'s
    L26 Stock w/72 Round Tops
    Interpart Front Spoiler
    Addco Front & Rear Sway Bars
    My Very First Car
    Purchased 5/23/1974

  10. #110
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    This seems like quite the victory. I think a step-by-step guide with pictures should be created for future would be swappers.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

  11. #111
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    Well before I wave the flag of victory I want to take her our for a much longer run. I want to see how she does on the long runs and on the track

    But right now I am far more worried about the wheel shimmy
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  12. #112
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    I did not take that many pictures, but a step by step list would go something like this.

    Put rear of car on jack stands as high as you can get them.
    Remove rear tires
    Disconnect half shafts from wheel hub
    Disconnect half shafts from differential
    Put half shafts on ground with hardware in plastic baggie
    Remove Drive shaft bolts and put in plastic baggie
    Remove the bolt holding the diff to the diff mount on the diff crossmember
    Remove the two nuts that hold the diff to the mustache bar
    (NOTE: on some occasions the studs that screw into the diff rear cover will come out with the nuts, in this happens, you will need to support the differential BEFORE removing the studs!)
    The diff is now loose and should move around a little
    Place jack under the differential to support its weight (IF studs were coming off with the nuts, you will already have this done)
    Remove 4 bolts holding the differential cross member to the chassis
    (NOTE: the exhaust may need be lowered to do this, so plan accordingly)
    With the crossmember out of the way, slowly balance the diff on the jack and lower it down from the car
    you will need to move it forward first to clear the mustache bar before it moves down
    Place the Diff on a work surface.
    Remove the yoke on the front of the differential. You may or may not need a puller to do this job
    Remove the output flanges from either side of the differential (just one bolt holds them in)
    Using a press or a 5 lb maul, tap or press the studs out of the flanges, you will need these to install into the wolf creek output flanges.
    Thoroughly clean off the studs removed from the OEM output flanges with a wire wheel.
    Using an arbor press or rubber mallet, press or tap the studs into the wolf creek output flanges
    Acquire a R180 STI rear diff.
    Clean diff as well as you can
    Inspect the side oil seals on the STI diff for tears, or dry rot. IF questionable, replace with new seals (can be bought at SUBARU Parts and Accessories | SubaruParts.com®)
    Install the front yoke from the DATSUN diff to the STI DIFF. The splines are the same and it will slide on, or it may need some convincing with an impact. I cannot speak as to how tight to make this yoke, but it should be very tight. There is no way to get a good running torque on the nut as the splines will make it very hard to get it on so any torque number will be masked by the running torque completely. So try to get a feel for how hard it is to turn the STI yoke and tighten until it feels the same.
    At this point you should have the front yoke on and now you can install the wolf creek output flanges into the STI diff. You will notice the wolf creek output flanges have a groove in the splines. THis groove is for a clip that is already inside your diff, go ahead shine a light in there and you will see it. THe flanges do not have any bolts that hold them in. The clip does it all (I know kind of creepy, but the the half shaft once installed gives the output flange nowhere to go, so it will be okay)
    Using a rubber mallet gently tap the wolf creek output flange into the STI diff. You will feel it go in and engage the clip
    Ensure the diff has plugs in the fill and drain holes. I recommend using female style plugs versus male to make draining easier. You can buy the female plugs at MSA.
    Fill the diff with 1 bottle (about 1 liter/1quart) of 75w-90 gear of your choice (80w-90 will work too, but check your FSM for temps and recommended weights)
    If the studs came out of your Datsun diff cover with the nuts, Now is the time to remove the nuts. You will probably need a vice or a strong helper to hold the stud while you get the nuts off. Clean thoroughly it will make installation easier
    Install the studs back onto the STI diff cover.
    Remove the OEM diff mount from the Datsun DIFF and Install the OEM diff mount onto the STI diff.
    Place the heavy as **** diff on the jack and jack it up into position. Have the diff cross member and hardware, (THAT YOU CLEANED!) ready to go.
    carefully and slowly jack up the diff so that the studs are lined up with the mustache bar. Once they are close wiggle the diff so the studs slide into the mustache bar holes. Once you do that, you are in good shape. Hand tighten the nuts.

    Now at this point you can install the diff crossmember with the 4 bolts and the diff is in. Do not forget that nut, washer and lock nut that attaches the diff mount to the diff crossmember.

    NOTE: IF you are installing an RT mount, you will have had to install it BEFORE you put the DIFF in. To do that you will have to remove the diff strap hardware from the sides of the transmission tunnel. You will also need to trim the bump stop (if you went that route) about 3/4". I will let the user of these directions figure out what kind of mount they want to use with the RT mount, as there are numerous different styles.

    Happy motoring!
    Last edited by Zedyone_kenobi; 11-28-2013 at 06:36 AM.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  13. #113
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    Just to cap off this thread. I figured out what my wicket shimmy was. The car had sat a while doing this modification, and while it was sitting we had a hard spell of cold weather. When I checked my tire pressures, I only had 18 psi in the front tires. Upon airing them up, my wicked shimmy was gone. Just goes to show you. Before tackle a problem with extensive money and labor, try common sense things first.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  14. #114
    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    Classic engineer's eye for detail oversight....not to worry. Investigation and scientific method always wins in the end, just the order the way the problems fall out may not be the easiest path.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  15. #115
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Took the Z out on a few drives and I am now convinced I want to do a 5 speed swap. Keeping the rpm lower on long trips and vintage rallies (which is what I really want to do with my Z) would be a nice benefit.

    Just need to go find all the 5 speed swap threads to find which one I want to go with. Probably willing to pick one that will just swap in easy versus trying to pick one that is the most performance oriented.

    what I know so far is that the 5 speed is still a type B unit. so it should bolt in. I assume that means I can also use the standard 71 transmission mount. Shifter is still questionable. I may have to do some research on that. I think the Type B shifter I am using now should work. Still, the 5 speed is going to be nice.

    Anybody have a good reliable source for good 5 speeds.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  16. #116
    Registered User er34gtt2000jp's Avatar
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    I got my JDM Type A 5 speed off Craigslist for $250. Just had to source the front half of the drive shaft from a Roadster guy on Ebay and I was in business. Nice thing about the Type A is no modifications needed to shifter hole or console for a 70-71 car and as long as you're running a 3.90 or higher rear it will be quite nice.

    All of the L series Z trans will bolt right in using the 71 trans mount but the shifter hits the opening for a type B trans requiring trimming like 3/4" off the forward lip. I wanted to keep mine all factory so i scoured CL to find a JDM 5 speed.

  17. #117
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    I am running a Type B 4 speed right now, so I would think the modifications would be absolutely minimal. Just wanted to be sure before I drop a decent bit of coin on a rebuilt 5 speed box.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    Don't forget the 240sx transmission swap. I think some 300zx's have the same unit. I got one from a 200sx turbo.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  19. #119
    Registered User Travel'n Man's Avatar
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    No matter what anybody says - once you get the 5 speed - complete a rebuild before putting that bad boy in...............make it easy on yourself...........you'll be glad you did!
    Life's a journey; enjoy the ride!

    Mitchell
    L28 - N42 Block w/Flat tops - N42 Rebello Head & Cam - Triple 40 PHH Mikuni's - Headers - Recaro Seats -
    R180 3.9 Diff - Close Ratio 5 Speed - Toyota Vented Brake Upgrade w/ Porterfield High Performance Pads & Shoes

    1972 Datsun 240z
    HLS30-75040


  20. #120
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue View Post
    Don't forget the 240sx transmission swap. I think some 300zx's have the same unit. I got one from a 200sx turbo.
    Hi Blue,
    Which 71C came in the 200SX turbo?
    I know the early 71C (with the 16mm wide gears) came in the 300ZX N/A Z31 and the 240SX S13. The later version, with the 20mm wide gears set and synchro reverse gear, came in the 240SX S14.
    Here is a link that shows the differences well. DSC04293JPGThumbnail1jpg id 266482 | Motortopia
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    I have not opened it but I would think it was the smaller size. The car was an '88 turbo s12 with 4.11 R200.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  22. #122
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue View Post
    I have not opened it but I would think it was the smaller size. The car was an '88 turbo s12 with 4.11 R200.
    I have an early type out of a 300ZX with 68k km on it. Planning on swapping the 71b in my car. Unfortunatly the 71b came from a 280ZX with unknown milage. Even with a new set of bearings and synchro rings its noisy.
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  23. #123
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    Bummer that the 71B rebuild didn't work out. Apparently they're not easy to get back to factory-level performance with the parts that are available for rebuilding.

    What kind of noise does the 71B make? Shifting, driving or just sitting in neutral? I have a late ZX 5 speed in my car now that needs synchros, and a 1985 300ZX 71C with the front case swap completed ready to replace it. I'd like to take a shot at rebuilding the 71B but there's only one person who seems to have really improved his 71B, and been happy with it, with a rebuild and that's duragg over on Hybridz.org. And he spent a lot of money on Nissan parts, and a lot of time on fitting the synchros perfectly to the gears.
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

  24. #124
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    I used bearings from a local supplier, synchros, needle rollers, gaskets/seals and the shaft nuts from my local Nissan dealer.
    Most of those parts are the same as the 71C part numbers and still available at Nissan.
    I don't like using the kits because the supplier couldnt tell me the manufacturer of the bearings and the kit is only the ball bearings and gaskets.

    The transmission had a growling whine in all the gears except 4th. This I thought was typical bearing noise caused by sideways force when the gears are under load. I suspected a shot bearing in the cluster shaft.
    After the rebuild everything worked very nicely, but the whine is still there and 5th is marginally the worst. The bearing "kit" and Red-line trans oil helped it a lot, but its dissapointing that the whine hasn't gone.
    I noticed the gear teeth were dull and not very shiny like the ones in the 300Zx 71C transmission I have. I think the 71B was run with a low oil level or the wrong oil?
    I would like to do the 71C swap, but other things are keeping me occupied atm.

    Zedyone, Sorry for hi-jacking your thread, but it might help you with your tranny swap. I want to start a new thread on my 71C project. Hopefully start it in Feburary.

    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  25. #125
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    no worries. Both my original 71 Type A transmission and my new late 71 Type B transmission have a third gear whine. I just think that it is something about 3rd gear. It will be nice to have a 5 speed, but I am not looking forward to pulling the engine AGAIN! I have had poor luck installing a transmission with the engine in the car.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    If it didn't whine in 5th, I would probably put up with it, but then I would be the one "whining" about it to the wife

    What was causing you so much grief removing the transmission? Removing the engine, I can understand you not wanting to do that again in a hurry.
    I have done mine with virtually no problems. I removed the top radiator hose, heater hose, air intake hose and throttle linkage just to be sure I wouldnt damaged anything.
    Can't tilt the engine much anyway with the fan shroud in place. Still had enough room to drop it out by myself and that is with the 280ZX 2+2 clutch.

    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  27. #127
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    I struggled to mate the current transmission to the engine for 2 days of ramming it forward and pulling it back. It just never lined up. I made some long studs to help guide it in. Nope. I finally gave up and pulled the engine and put it on a wooden stand and then slid the transmission while on a transmission jack to the engine, and it was still hard. I am not sure why. These things should just align and go in. But who knows why it gave me such greif. If I could get the car up higher it would not be an issue I think. It may be time to buy a big boy jack.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    If the clutch disc is not perfectly centered the nose of the main shaft will sometimes not slide easily in to the pilot bushing. That's the last part, along with the dowels in the engine block, that mate when installing. I've had loose, poor quality clutch alignment tools that would let the disc drop down when tightening the pressure plate. You need the tightest alignment tool you can get, and hold it up perpendicular with the back of the engine while tightening the plate bolts. Spend a lot of time getting that perfect before lifting the transmission up.

    I've also found that the scissor jack that comes with the cars is great for holding up the back of the engine. You can adjust the angle of the engine on-the-fly as you get everything aligned. Sometimes it's easier to adjust the engine than the transmission.
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

  29. #129
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    Im thinking also along the same line as Zed Head. Clutch disc maybe not exactly in line or the angle was a little bit off.

    I have nether used an aligning tool. Nissan sells the clutch components individually and I nether bothered to order one. Just eyed it up with the pressure plate tightened enough to hold the disc in place and used a loose fitting dowel rod in the bearing. Its hard to explain, but I rolled it around on the disc splines and checked the distance to the pressure plate fingers. Then tighten the pressure plate down.

    Like Zed Head I used the scissor jack under the back of the engine and the tranny on a trolley jack. Make usre you get the car high enough of the ground to give yourself enough room to move under the car.

    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

  30. #130
    Registered User Walter Moore's Avatar
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    Another trick that I have used is to put the transmission in gear, and rotate the output shaft with my fingers while lining it up with the clutch. I use a transmission jack to hold the transmission up while getting it back in place, but still I admit to more than my share of cursing while installing the transmission the last time.

    One time I had my adult son help and things went better, but the last time I did it by myself and it was a hassle.
    '71 240Z, Because any fool can drive fast in a straight line.

  31. #131
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    good advice. Just a note, since you mentioned the clutch alignment tool. I distinctly remember how hard it was to get that darn thing out once I tightened down the pressure plate. I actually popped out the ball and hoop that is inside the tool Once, I had to use a vice grip and hammer to tap it out. It was that tight. I have installed clutches in Camaros and Jeeps, and never had that issue. Maybe I am just being lazy. But if I drop the transmission again, I will definitely be getting the car 6" higher than last time. I struggled for a while getting that bell housing under the car, as the frame rail with the T/C rod was just not high enough. So I was not working smartly. I will definitely get a better transmission jack, as my harbor freight jack had exactly ONE good use until the gears stripped! HAHA. I will get this working no doubt. Just need to source a solid good 5 close ratio 5 speed first.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    I tried to install the flywheel and pressure plate evenly with symmetrical tightening /torquing of all bolts in steps to ensure correct alignment and fastening. I still had to slam the transmission harder than I wanted to make it mate (after ~ 20min of trying gentler methods).

    I wonder if the problem is at the fly wheel area or up at the nose where the new bushing resides.
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blue View Post
    Yup... I like what you are doing but $500 for the stubbies from Wolf Creek is the hardest part of the upgrade in my opinion. There may be a less expensive solution. The Yoke solution arose from your trouble getting those short faced D cut bolts. A Yoke with 27 splined shaft would be a nice keystone.
    To revisit an earlier part of this thread....

    Couldn't the $500 for the Wolf Creek flange-shafts be saved by either A) installing splined yokes, as Blue mentions here, and then replacing U-joints to mount up the rest of the 240 half-shafts, or for that matter B) just re-using the flange-shafts from the original R180 that is being replaced? Even if opening the diffs were required to swap in the threaded buttons, it seems like a good way to save a bundle of $$.

    Am I missing something here? That seems like the obvious and cheap solution.


    EDIT: Never mind... I just figured it out. Datsun spines are 25 tooth, Subaru are 27. Bummer.
    Last edited by robox; 01-13-2014 at 12:08 AM.

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    Stephen, I rebuilt an '82 5 speed before putting it into my '73. You definitely do NOT need to pull the motor. However, you should 1) remove the fan, 2) loosen the motor mounts and 3) lower the rear (or raise the front) end of the motor to a bit more extreme angle in order to permit the tranny to slide in. The purpose of removing the fan is so that it does not hit the radiator while the motor is at a cocked angle. I had no issues whatsoever.

    By the way, if you have not already done so, don't forget to get the speedo pinion gear that matches your diff.

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    Questions ...
    1. Why did you remove the half shafts ? when I replace my diff with one from a 720 I just laid the m to the side. Now i want an LSD. Is this required with a STI diff?
    Also I working on getting a STI diff with a stripped drain bolt are the covers interchangeable
    Thanks
    Dan
    1972 240z

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    The cover for the Datsun cover will definitely fit the STI diff cover. I can tell you that for certain.
    I forgot why I removed the half shafts, probably just to get them off and clean them. But also they may have been in the way to my exhaust. I wanted to install new high strength steel bolts and nuts in there that were clean and freshly cad plated as well.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Thanks ! thats why I got it so cheap, the stripped bolt. well that and it was low on fluid but for the price I figure i could give it a shot. it has 110k miles on it the engine spun a bearing so I wonder about the condition of the diff.
    thanks
    1972 240z

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    After installing a STI diff in I figured I would share my experience. Ok the folks at Wolf Creek say to hit the stub axles in with a hammer. Mine did not go in so easy so i put it on a press . Don't do what I did~! You must center the C-clip that lies in the diff between the shims of the LSD. I being a newbie did not know and broke the C-clip. Luckily it fell into the spider gear and locked the diff so when I turned in a parking lot it was like having a welded diff. After taking back out again and taking it to local diff guy he re-stacked the plates and replaced the C-clip all is good now. Much better handling ...
    1972 240z

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by madkaw View Post
    I think I remember John Coffey stating that the LSD is the single best improvement you can do for handling. With the STI set up it is one of the easiest also. The LSD is not that exotic for an OEM , just a very nice option.
    Does the LSD make the steering wheel force harder on the corners? That concern is what's kept me from doing it, in case my bride drives the car...
    Julio
    1972 240Z (in-progress, 95% complete)
    CZC# 15388

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    No...

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    No, Highly recommended I have a r200 LSD in my turbo car. I like the sti diff a little better maybe because I had the shims re stacked in the sti. I found my STI diff on the WRX forums pretty cheap.
    1972 240z

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    for those of us who haven't experienced an LSD, can you illuminate? what makes it better? is this something noticed on the track only, or is there some quality to it that is somehow noticeable on the street? i've never noticed anything particularly odd or bad about the stock diff in my '78... what am i missing?
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

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    There's nothing bad of odd about a stock open diff. If you've never spun the rear tires on your Z in a corner, then you'll never know the benefits of a LSD. If you want the car to be more stable in a corner and allow earlier and more throttle exiting, then a LSD is of great benefit. Its the single best thing you can do for the handling of a S30.

    If you're not a cornering kind of guy, no need to spend the money on the diff.

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    Alright guys, you've talked me into it - I'm joining the LSD Club!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Life's a journey; enjoy the ride!

    Mitchell
    L28 - N42 Block w/Flat tops - N42 Rebello Head & Cam - Triple 40 PHH Mikuni's - Headers - Recaro Seats -
    R180 3.9 Diff - Close Ratio 5 Speed - Toyota Vented Brake Upgrade w/ Porterfield High Performance Pads & Shoes

    1972 Datsun 240z
    HLS30-75040


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    Just be careful of the bright flashes and weird thoughts.. Oh! Different LSD, enjoy the curves
    C

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    That's funny Charles. That kind of LSD may or may not get you better handling of stuff-lol


    Quote Originally Posted by Patcon View Post
    Just be careful of the bright flashes and weird thoughts.. Oh! Different LSD, enjoy the curves
    C
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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    I can say that the LSD under normal driving is completely un-noticeable. It is benign, quiet and easy to own. The added punch is welcome and when you do get frisky coming out of a corner, you can really feel the back end bite and go. It leaps forward. Other than that it is just just like an OEM diff. I never launch my car like I was drag racing, but I have no doubt it could take the abuse. MY L28 can really put the power down through the 205's. The car may be more fun with the 195's I have in storage. But she is definitely sure footed.

    I made one mistake in my installation, I installed the RT mount for the rear end. But I trimmed the bump stop too short. So if I really get abusive with the transmission I get a thump. Other than that it has been flawless. A wonderful mod that has added a GREAT deal of enjoyment to my car.

    IN fact so much, I was able to shock a guy in his fancy FRS with what an old Z could do.. haha.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  48. #148
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    ummmm, not that I know from first hand experience or anything, but I heard you can get two rubber marks when launching.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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    Travelin' man you'll notice a difference in the mountains. Especially with the extra HPs you have. It makes a bigger difference in my turbo car than the NA just because of the torque but a nice upgrade. There is a guy in Weaverville who works on diffs. especially the Subaru and Mazda stuff. I had him re-stack the shims in mine after I broke the c-clips. I was told it is better than stock but don't know for sure since I broke mine before install the 1st time.
    1972 240z

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    Hi...would you mind sharing the name of the shop in Weaverville?

    Thanks..

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    Sure I sent you a PM. Hes a nice guy and has a race shop and only works on diffs on the side to help pay for racing. I say its a race shop but maybe more like a huge garage that would make everyone here jealous.
    1972 240z

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