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Thread: Just ordered my Rebello 3.0, now what

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    Default Just ordered my Rebello 3.0, now what

    I placed the order for a Rebello 3.0 so at some point a mostly complete motor will be brought home to swap into my running car. I have done motor swaps on other vehicles but I am not a professional mechanic, what could I be forgetting? Heres my current list in no particular order:

    • Have gaskets on hand for valve cover, water pump, intake/exhaust
    • Lots of engine brite for cleaning empty engine bay and transmission
    • label wires and tubes
    • fluids for new motor
    • clutch?
    • oil change for manual transmission
    • repaint engine bay
    • replace battery tray
    • New fuel lines
    • Beer, bbq and weekend with friends


    I have left off the plug wires, cap/rotor, belt and water hoses because they have already been replaced this year. Rebello is also going to work over my SU carbs. Any recommendations?
    Nite_Grind likes this.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Barn Find Daily Driver Captain_Zeros's Avatar
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    Camera on hand for the momentous occasion!
    New engine mounts?
    1973 240Z w/ roundtop carbs, 280zx e12-80 distributor, 280zx alternator, late model Altima junkyard electric fans. 115 Blue Metallic & white side stripes.

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    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    Brake job for WHOA moments. Suspension up to the task of more power. Driveline in general----U-joints on all drive shafts.

    Any specs on the motor? CR and cam specs.
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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    Clutch kit and flywheel. Make a list of the installation steps, in order, and you'll realize what you'll need to replace or upgrade at each step.

    You might need/want to recurve your distributor also, or at least check that the curves are right. A Rebello motor probably likes different timing than a stock motor.
    alternativez likes this.
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zed Head View Post
    You might need/want to recurve your distributor also, or at least check that the curves are right.
    I did specifically ask Dave at rebello this question. He said that because i already have an electronic 280 series distributor I should be good to go.

    • motor mounts
    • Clutch kit

    Clutch kit seems like a good idea, ill take recommendations on type. The car right now is running and driving though it feels like its rocking about 50hp. The suspension parts are all there and the rubber actually looks pretty new, the alignment is even straight. Because of this and about a dozen other reasons I think this car had a caring owner as late as the mid 2000's, though it was never restored. The brake system has been rebuilt end to end to stock specifications and while upgrades might be happening in the future it wont be part of the motor project.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    I did specifically ask Dave at rebello this question. He said that because i already have an electronic 280 series distributor I should be good to go.
    That seems a little bit vague and general. If you have the 260Z distributor it's set up for carbs, if you have a ZX distributor with the side module it might have a high advance vacuum system designed for emissions engines. If you have one of the 280Z distributors there are essentially two sets of advance curves, high vacuum, low centrifugal for the EGR systems and vice-versa for the earlier non-EGR. Just saying, it seems like there could be more attention there. It's all part of the fun though.
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

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    petrolhead spitz17's Avatar
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    Answering the "now what?"

    Stay on top of Dave. They are great guys over there, but things don't happen quick. With most quality things, it takes time. It took probably half a year or so for me to get my engine, but you won't see me complaining! Nothing but smiles . Just make sure you stay on top of them, and call in once in awhile to give soft reminders.
    '72 Fairlady 240Z-L - HS30-10052, Imported in 1973 from Yokota Airbase
    '70 240Z - HLS30-19927, History in SCCA CP & Trans-Am, ICSCC CIP, IMSA GTU
    '77 Porsche 930 Turbo Carrera - Black on black
    '13 Subaru BRZ Limited - Daily Driver

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    Registered User grannyknot's Avatar
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    SU's on a Rebello? I see triples in your future.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grannyknot View Post
    SU's on a Rebello? I see triples in your future.
    Perhaps, but not today. Lets get this thing driving first
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L
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    My first Rebello was a 3.0L with 2-inch SUs and it was fine until the need for (more) speed invaded my brain (what brain my wife asks).
    Travel'n Man likes this.
    if a little knowledge can make you dangerous, I'm a little dangerous

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    Registered User Travel'n Man's Avatar
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    Tell us about the build - block / head - - flat top pistons? expected compression? - specs - cam - carbs - headers - gearing - transmission.............need more info. While the engine is out it's a great time to have the engine bay painted - review your brake lines and the male ends near the wheels.........you have room to work. Great time to clean up any wiring issues and run Dave's light upgrade in the wiring harness along the front frame. With the added power you need to think about brake upgrade......vented rotors in my opinion are a must...the solid one's warp like hell with any any heat for an extended period IMO. I'll never go back to solid rotors.
    ............the sky is the limit with enough money.

    Be sure to think about the diesel crank for a stroker..........you're almost there.
    Life's a journey; enjoy the ride!

    Mitchell
    L28 - N42 Block w/Flat tops - N42 Rebello Head & Cam - Triple 40 PHH Mikuni's - Headers - Recaro Seats -
    R180 3.9 Diff - Close Ratio 5 Speed - Toyota Vented Brake Upgrade w/ Porterfield High Performance Pads & Shoes

    1972 Datsun 240z
    HLS30-75040


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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    wow you guys are junkies for engine porn

    The motor i went with is the Rebello "Standard" build. I made it clear that I want drive ability and reliability over performance. Frankly I was happy with a 200hp motor and when Dave said his entry system was 240hp out of the box, and 300 with some custom head work and triples I was pretty stoked. From Dave:

    Longer 240 rods
    ARP rod bolts
    Crank stroked from 79 to 80mm
    89mm Nissan KA24E pistons
    63DI cam kit
    turbo oil pump
    clivitte rod bearings
    SU reconditioning and modification

    After restoring a car and a few motorcycles already I have become a big fan of what I like to call a "rolling project" The goal is to keep the vehicle operational as much as possible to keep from losing interest or parts. I accomplish this by only taking apart one system at a time, focusing on it, and putting it back together as quickly (and correctly) as possible to prevent losing parts or forgetting things. It results in some duplicate work: The brakes for example. I completely refurbished the stock brake system despite the fact that I want to upgrade it. On the plus side ill start that upgrade with zero frozen bolts and a known working system, minimizing potential problems when the upgrades come time. It also allows me to spread the cost of the car's projects over an infinite time span since I rarely "need" expensive components, and I never need a huge pile of expensive components. I rescued this car from its certain doom less than 2 years and I have been driving it for over a year. The initial restoration of stock functionality only cost me a few hundred bucks and I got to enjoy the car while I upgraded one system at a time.
    Willoughby Z likes this.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    How old is your radiator? You'll have to remove it, might as well get a new one.
    1972 240Z #918 New Sight Orange
    1977 280Z #305 Light Blue Metallic
    1972 240Z #110 Persimmons Red

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    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    Smart guy to keep it a rolling project. Too many Z's don't get finished because the project drags out too long without any fun driving time.
    Keeping stock brakes in good repair should suffice.
    I don't think a "new' radiator is needed but taking it to a radiator shop to be flushed and pressure checked would be smart. Especially a 3 core datsun radiator flow REALLY well and will keep that motor cool.
    Kind of curious if Rebello specifies oil to use or oil with zinc or any othe additives?

    Hell yeah ENGINE PORN!!

    Stock ehaust?
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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    Registered User conedodger's Avatar
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    Nice! Though I'm going to slow your project down by bringing mine down there and paying him cash! 8-)
    Rob
    2000 BMW R1100 RT-SE (for sale)
    1999 Toyota 4Runner Supercharged
    1975 Porsche 914 stroker motor autoX car
    1973 Datsun 240Z Restoration project. New paint in original white. E31 head on 2.4 block. Nissan Motorsports header. R200 with Nissan motorsports LSD.

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    Condodger: I offered him cash! Dave didn't seem to care one way or the other which is weird considering transaction fees. 2% of $$$$ is $$

    The car has a stainless system in it now thats in good shape. I do have a header thats getting put in there

    Dave mentioned that even with the new oils lacking zinc the motors hold up fine but that wasnt exactly a recommendation one way or the other.

    The Radiator is factory. When bringing the car back to life I flushed the radiator myself then painted all of the non-grill area. It passed pressure tests and keeps my poorly running motor cool now. Radiator upgrade is part of my AC conversion so its definitely on the list.

    I am considering changing out the fuel pump with one of those carter rotary pumps, then eliminating the pump in the engine compartment. With that would come some stainless braided fuel hoses and maybe some kind of fancy fuel rail.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Registered User z boy mn's Avatar
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    I did the Carter fuel pump last summer and am happy with it. It supplies plenty of fuel for my triples and holds steady at around 3-5 PSI, so no need for a regulator (for me, anyway). It is on the loud side, even with the vibration mounts, but that just lets me know it's running.

    The only issue I had was getting recommendations on the return line. Most folks (including Top Performance) said it didn't need a return, but I kept hearing the pump dead head. I called the manufacturer and they were horrified (they said it needs fuel running through it to cool it), so I put in a return line. Bad sounds went away and it runs like a champ. I'm still not 100% sure if it needs one or not, but it seems happier this way.

    Also, I like your "rolling upgrades" option. I got my Z from someone who did everything at once, and 16 years later it wasn't up and running yet. In the end, we put it together together and he got to drive it 8 miles before I drove off with it. I need to go pay him a visit now that it's running well and let him scream around the block a few times!

    Good luck with the new motor, sounds like a fabulous way to celebrate spring!
    siteunseen likes this.
    Current Z: 1971 Datsun 240Z, 3.1 Stroker (F54 block, P90 head, 490-290 cam, triple Webers); 95% complete
    First Z: 1972 240Z, destroyed in a shipping accident. Ack!

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    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Look into the Mallory fuel pump on summit or jegs. It is internally regulated at around 3 psi and is VERY quiet.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Registered User tlorber's Avatar
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    I say go with a 5 speed while you have the motor out. Then a 3.7-3.9 rear diff.

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    Thinking about clutches: The upper limit of theoretical power for this car is about 300hp, will a stock clutch system handle that or do I need something like a centerforce?

    Zboy: The tip on the return line is great, thanks for that.

    Zedyone: I checked out the mallory pump, thats a $300 unit.

    I have a 5 speed manual
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    I hear what you are saying about not pulling too much apart. You might consider this though if you haven't already...

    In addition to cleaning up / painting the engine bay while the engine is out, I like to take the opportunity to remove and powder coat the cross member and rebuild / powder coat the steering rack.

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    Registered User RIP260Z's Avatar
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    Kurbycar,
    And enjoy it when you get the engine up and running (I do with my Rebello 3.2l unit).... clutches, also may want to look at ACT. Fuel pump, there is also Holley.
    RS30 June 1978 built 260Z (9th last)

    1965 Nissan Silvia (CSP311) the next restoration

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonathanrussell View Post
    I hear what you are saying about not pulling too much apart. You might consider this though if you haven't already...

    In addition to cleaning up / painting the engine bay while the engine is out, I like to take the opportunity to remove and powder coat the cross member and rebuild / powder coat the steering rack.
    Crossmember is a great idea, I cant exactly remove that while the motor is installed.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L
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    Well I hope after all your hard work and $$$ spent you manage to attend ZCON 2014 so many of us can see your Z and meet you in person.
    if a little knowledge can make you dangerous, I'm a little dangerous

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    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    A good standard upgrade for the clutch is to go with the 2+2 clutch. It has a 240mm clutch disc compared to the 220mm original and can 700plus lbs of torque. The original is somewhere around 550 lbs.
    You will need the 240mm flywheel though.
    This way you keep the original light clutch pedal feel.
    Chas

    Edit: the turbo model 280ZX had this clutch as well. They are a bolt on upgrade including the flywheel.
    Last edited by EuroDat; 03-05-2014 at 11:23 PM. Reason: Turbo clutch
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    Thinking about clutches: The upper limit of theoretical power for this car is about 300hp, will a stock clutch system handle that or do I need something like a centerforce?

    Zboy: The tip on the return line is great, thanks for that.

    Zedyone: I checked out the mallory pump, thats a $300 unit.

    I have a 5 speed manual
    well you never said it had to be a certain price
    Diseazd likes this.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    RX-7 pump 39$ quiet!!!
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    lol. lets put it this way, i have Some money but I'm certainly not made of it. If the choice between parts is a $70 carter that we know works but might make noise, and a $129 pump thats perfect i'd spring for the perfect pump. The $300 mallory is too rich I did look into a RX7 pump, I found the main difference is that its a different type of pump . Brand new replacements are around 80 bucks and carter even makes one, I think i might give it a try: https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cat...ER_P60504.html

    Carter overview of pump types:
    Carter Fuel Delivery Products. Complete Fuel System Solutions for the Professional. Fuel pumps and accessories.



    Heres what I have on the list of things to buy:
    • Valve cover gasket
    • water pump gasket (new water pump last year)
    • intake/exhaust gasket
    • Motor mounts
    • 240mm 280zx turbo clutch kit from LUK, #06-032 (rebello recommended LUK)
    • Fuel pump
    • Side post battery and related cables


    Stuff to do other than the obvious engine swap:
    • strip engine bay paint
    • repair rust found after stripping engine bay
    • sandblast/paint crossmember
    • repair/replace/improve battery tray
    • paint engine bay
    • make fuel system pretty
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L
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    24F battery, which moves the negative post to under the body and two new cables (need to measure the ones you have and order the size of the current cables but reverse (black length would become the red length).
    if a little knowledge can make you dangerous, I'm a little dangerous

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    If I put - strike that - When I put all that work into repainting the engine bay, I decided to go with an Optima battery.. Just couldn't stand the thought that a liquid filled battery might ever leak, outgas etc - and eat my paint. Expensive - Yes. Piece of mind - Priceless. {a plus is the Optima's seem to hold a charge forever!}.

    When your changing the battery cables - go first class with large stranded copper and gold plated terminal ends. Corrosion will be a thing of the past.. Some of the best money I spent on the Z.

    good luck with project..
    Carl B.

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  32. #32
    Registered User jackboxxx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    Thinking about clutches: The upper limit of theoretical power for this car is about 300hp, will a stock clutch system handle that or do I need something like a centerforce?

    Zedyone: I checked out the mallory pump, thats a $300 unit.

    I have a 5 speed manual
    As someone who has "drank" the Rebello kool-aid (and its really GOOD kool-aid ) I would not hesitate to upgrade your clutch and flywheel, pickup a lightened flywheel and centerforce clutch ( I went with the centerforce II ) and it will not disappoint you. I think the biggest problem you are going to have is wiping the "sh*t eating grin" off your face the first time you take her out for a spin.

    note on the fuel pump, since you are keeping the SU's, remebmber they are low pressure carbs..
    you dont need a ton of fuel flow to keep them full..I went with the "big bore" SU upgrade from Dave Rebello myself and never had an issue.
    NOT Empty Anymore...

  33. #33
    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L
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    Drank? I've swam in it, First a 3.0L w/2-inch SUs, then a 3.1 w/triples and finally (my wife hopes) a 3.2L 12:2 CR stroker making 358hp@crank running on 100 octane grin inducing monster.

    A Mallory supplies the fuel to the 44mm Mikunis and the lack of noise means I can really hear the exhaust (from say a mile away people have been known to explain).

    The CF II and a lighter flywheel are the right choice for the 3.0L just remember you will have a bigger than normal drop in rpm once the clutch is engaged. Shift accordingly.
    Captain_Zeros likes this.
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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    I converted to a side post Optima red battery yesterday. new battery cables were required. By chance i also received my new inspection light lens from eurodat and installed that too. The install looks much more clean but i want a new metal battery tray installed when the motor is pulled out.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Any updates? How much, if you don't mind me asking?

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    Dave was pretty clear upfront that i ordered a motor at the beginning of racing season and it would be a while, since i have a running car I wasn't pressing for a fast turn around. Since i last posted here i took my carbs over for modification and to meet everyone. I upgraded the valves and added a "street port" job to my head. Dave showed me a head mid-porting and I was able to see factory casting with stalagmite growing in it vs his mirror finish port/polish job. I expressed that I wasn't interested in the mirror finish but it would be nice to make it smooth inside so the "street port" will be exactly that

    Pricing: They seem to have something available for any reasonable budget with options to utilize used parts to cut costs. I happened to have sold my motorcycle for $3500 and that was enough to get me a basic motor with some used parts.

    By the way I made a killing on this deal. I had a 65hp motorcycle that I sold and was able to purchase an additional 200hp from the sale for my Z (up from 50, my Z is old and tired) so in the end ill see a 300% profit in HP on that investment
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Registered User 73str86's Avatar
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    I like your profit in horsepower perspective, as well as the "keep it on the road" plan. My Z was off the road for about 9 months waiting for my 'new' L29. I replaced the radiator as stated above, and replaced every engine accessory except for the fuel pump so far. Still going mechanical.

    With the engine out, I also replaced the steering rack bushings and steering coupler.

    That is a very reasonable price. Thank you for sharing it. I paid more, AND had to worry about a local race shop's Z familiarity. I always read/believed you couldn't touch one for less than $7000.
    http://www.hookit.com/members/triingsoldier/

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    I just wanted to keep this thread alive as I'm wondering when and how your engine turns out for you. Dave is also currently building me a 3.0L Stroker. I'm not sure if it quantifies as the 'full-on' package, but it includes the "billet" build and my Z-therapy 4 screws will be bored out. Perhaps triples in the future... I sent my dizzy and (obviously) the carbs for dyno and tuning. I'm skeptical about what those modified SU's will put out, but I'm sure the amount of torque I gain will make me grin.

    For comparisons sake, I ordered the Fidenza flywheel, KUPP Stage 4 clutch (hope it isn't crap), Mishimoto Aluminum Rad, Mishimoto Silicone Hoses and new valve cover gaskets for (hopefully) a no-delay installation when it arrives. I don't know if the head cover is included with the engine or not. Dave said they typically include a new water pump, and oil pump, etc. Wilwoods 4 piston kits front and rear, AZC front control arms and knuckles, GC lowering coilovers, poly bushing kit, RT diff mount, and 15x9 / 225/50 wheels and tires to help with power. I am planning on running the mechanical fuel pump, and he didn't say it wouldn't work... Will see. I suppose as long as the bowls stay full, that's all that matters, right?

    I plan on keeping my R180 (3.364) diff for now, probably having it welded solid and will be swapping in a later year 5 speed to replace my already new_to_me 4 speed...

    Lets share dyno numbers, etc.

    If there is anything obvious I myself am overlooking, shout it out.

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    Let me also say that Dave, while a busy fella seems to be quite easy to talk to and work with. I'm not super-savvy with this stuff and had a lot of what were probably pretty stupid questions. It was his advice to get a new clutch, flywheel, etc. You just need to ask what you need.

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    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L
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    Note: when you get your engine back check to see if your thermostat is still there.
    if a little knowledge can make you dangerous, I'm a little dangerous

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    Note: Thermostat and gasket added to "just in case" list.

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    Oranngetang that sounds like one hellavuh setup, definitely more bells and whistles than I bit off on and attached to more awesomeness of a chassis. I spoke to Dave last week and yes he is easy to deal with and has answered every question. I am half planning on a lightened flywheel through either getting the maxima "frisbee" or having my buddy lighten it himself at his machine shop, it will be mated with an OEM style clutch or a centerforce. The hold up there is that my car has a 5 speed swap and honestly I have no idea what size or the diameter of the clutch so I'm going to pull it and check before getting the flywheel and clutch ordered up. In an effort to save costs i did authorize Dave to utilize used parts such as an oil pump and exhaust valves (i opted for the enlarged intake valves). I also didn't spring for the dyno session as it was close to 1/3 the cost of the motor for a full day session. If you're buying though ill be happy to let you bolt the motor up for comparison. The one thing i have going for me is that the motor is going into a completely driving car so there shouldn't be any suprises
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Clutch-wise, and please anyone correct me if I'm wrong as I'd hate to pass on false information. I believe ALL clutches were 8 7/8" (225mm) x 1" x 24 tooth all the way through to the 1983ZX's 5 speed, with the exception that the 2+2 and turbo models had a 9 7/16" (240mm) x 1" x 24 tooth for the additional workload.

    Mind you, I've collected this data by scavenging the RockAuto part numbers and descriptions for that decade.

    That said though.... The premium clutches on a quick "240z clutch" ebay search will show different results... My ASSUMPTIONS are that the flywheels and clutches are interchangeable and that the larger size was Nissan's answer for a cost effective heavier duty clutch, but I don't know. I'd like to though... Any thoughts?

    I believe Dave did mention to me that he preferred to run the "smaller" clutch, which I can only assume means the 225mm plate, and I mentioned I'm running a later year 5 speed.

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    i wont dispute your clutch sizes, but with a motor and clutch swap already done who knows what the PO put in there. my plan was use a centerforce if I found a small clutch, and use an OEM type if i found a turbo/2+2 (240mm) system
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    As for my chosen engine, I wasn't going to ship them a core since it's less to buy one than ship it from way up here in frosty Northern Canada, so there is only a distributor, carbs and valve cover being re-used. I'll have to pass on the free-dyno, though it would be entertaining! Buy yourself a side-draft sync. tool if you don't have one!!! They work well for setting up the SU carbs!

    I may not have mentioned, just remembered some comments about the electronic 280 dizzy. I'm running the 240Z with a Pertronix (sp) Ignitor to replace the points, sounded like it wouldn't be a problem, and they have a significantly different curve than the later years from what I've read. <4 months left before the snow hits again, I hope all these parts arrive in a timely order... hint hint.

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    Just to add to the info on the flywheels. Both the 225mm and the240mm flywheels will fit.
    The pressure plates are not interchangable. I have heard (NOT confirmed) that the 225 will fit to the 240 flywheel, but why would you use a 225 pressure plate on a 240mm flywheel?

    The general rule rates the 225mm clutch at 550lbs and the 240mm at 725lbs. There is a thread here with a sketch on how to machine these flywheels showing where and how much to cut. If you follow the sketch it should drop the weight from 23lbs to about 15-16lbs.
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Are the flywheels themselves actually different? I was under the impression that as long as the clutch friction disc and pressure plate mated up, they could be bolted onto any flywheel. My understanding is the only curve ball would be whether or not the correct clutch collars are being used for the correct application. I stumbled upon a few good threads last night, I'll try to post some links later, I have not had a moment to thoroughly read through them yet... Busy at work again!

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    I think this is the thread you were speaking of.

    Lightening the flywheel

    I wouldn't get too carried away with taking meat off the stock flywheel unless your machine shop has done this a fair bit. There engines rev pretty high, and I'd hate to think about what the aftermath of a failed flywheel would be. Especially if you were really cruising, in a busy place. Is the Maxima flywheel lighter and interchangeable?
    Last edited by oranngetang; 05-13-2014 at 11:23 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oranngetang View Post
    Are the flywheels themselves actually different? I was under the impression that as long as the clutch friction disc and pressure plate mated up, they could be bolted onto any flywheel. My understanding is the only curve ball would be whether or not the correct clutch collars are being used for the correct application.
    The flywheels are different on two points:
    1: There is a groove in the surface just outside the clutch disc contact area on both flywheels. On the 225mm it starts around 228mm which is in the contact area of the 240 clutch disc. The groove is too deep to machine out.
    2: The 240mm pressure plate has 9 bolts holding it down and the 225mm has 6 bolts. The 6 bolts will line up on the 240mm flywheel so in theory you could drill the other three holes in the 225mm flywheel to fit the 240mm pressure plate, but then you would still have the groove to deal with.

    The collor for the 280Z/ZX 2+2 is the one you want for the 240mm pressure plate. Its 4 mm shorter than the normal 280Z collar, but longer than the 240Z series 1 and the later 240Z / 260Z collars.
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Quote Originally Posted by oranngetang View Post
    I think this is the thread you were speaking of.

    Lightening the flywheel

    I wouldn't get too carried away with taking meat off the stock flywheel unless your machine shop has done this a fair bit. There engines rev pretty high, and I'd hate to think about what the aftermath of a failed flywheel would be. Especially if you were really cruising, in a busy place. Is the Maxima flywheel lighter and interchangeable?
    I'd guess that Rebello is his machine shop. It's mine and he knows a bit about Z cars so... 8-)
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    1973 Datsun 240Z Restoration project. New paint in original white. E31 head on 2.4 block. Nissan Motorsports header. R200 with Nissan motorsports LSD.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oranngetang View Post
    Is the Maxima flywheel lighter and interchangeable?
    The 810/Maxima (L24) flywheel is interchangable. It weighs 8kg compared to the 10kg the Zeds use. Its also a 225mm disc flywheel.

    I use my car for street use and don't rev it very hard. The lightened flywheel is the best performance mod I could do with my 280Z running L-Jetronic EFI. Certainly made it zappier around town. The flywheel is now a little lighter than the Maxima flywheel
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Quote Originally Posted by conedodger View Post
    I'd guess that Rebello is his machine shop. It's mine and he knows a bit about Z cars so... 8-)
    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    I am half planning on a lightened flywheel through either getting the maxima "frisbee" or having my buddy lighten it himself at his machine shop
    EuroDat, some really good info coming from you, thanks! Maybe some would run that 225mm clutch just due to the smaller diameter and potentially lighter weight anyway? That clamping force is based on OEM specs right? Wouldn't it be possible that a high-performance system designed on the 225mm stature might exceed the OEM grip/clamp of a 240mm?
    Last edited by oranngetang; 05-13-2014 at 02:07 PM.

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    Considering my situation with an unknown clutch/flywheel, plus bang for the buck factor here is the recommendation depending on what i find in there:

    225mm clutch: Grab a Maxima flywheel if you can find one, use a performance clutch like a centerforce

    240mm clutch: Optionally machine down the flywheel and use an LUK clutch
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    How much power are you hoping for out of this build?

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    Quote Originally Posted by oranngetang View Post
    EuroDat, some really good info coming from you, thanks! Maybe some would run that 225mm clutch just due to the smaller diameter and potentially lighter weight anyway? That clamping force is based on OEM specs right? Wouldn't it be possible that a high-performance system designed on the 225mm stature might exceed the OEM grip/clamp of a 240mm?
    The Maxima would be a good option, but they are getting harder to find these days. The clamping force is OEM spec and you can get an aftermarket performance clutch to match the 240mm clamping force.

    A collegue (after restructuring has left the company) had a 260Z and he used a performance clutch (I cant remember the brand) and it was slightly heavier than the 240mm pressure plate. That was just feeling the two, we didn't weigh them, regret that now. Would have been usefull information.

    His clutch pedal was a lot heavier after he installed it. My pedal is the same as when I had the 225mm clutch and that is what I wanted to keep. Now I have a heavy duty clutch, but you don't feel the difference.

    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Dave's estimate is 260-270hp on this build. I asked again about dyno tuning and confirmed that its going to add about 20% to the cost of my motor so thats out.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    I think we will make the same power, and you'll spend about 30% of what mine cost... come on.... get it dyno'd and tuned!

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    I have the same 3.0 motor. 278HP/260TQ at the crank w/ Triple Mikunis and previous mild head work done. See my profile below to hear what it sounds like... Dave makes solid motors!
    Last edited by byunique; 05-15-2014 at 08:38 AM.
    Brandon Yu
    '73 240, stroked Rebello 3.0, ported N42, 44 Mikunis, Adj. Tokicos, 5 speed, Trust 10.8lb Fly., Centerforce Dual Friction, 4.44 Nissan Comp LSD, MSA Header, Autopower rollbar, 16 " Riken Mesh Wheels.

    sound of my Z

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    Quote Originally Posted by byunique View Post
    I have the same 3.0 motor. 278HP/260TQ at the crank w/ Triple Mikunis and previous mild head work done. See my profile below to hear what it sounds like... Dave makes solid motors!
    Sweet! That makes me happy. Minus the triples our setup is identical except maybe the muffler, im excited to hear that. you should shoot another one in HD
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    Sweet! That makes me happy. Minus the triples our setup is identical except maybe the muffler, im excited to hear that. you should shoot another one in HD
    Here's another video which is cleaner, and it does compare what it sounds like with a center muffler if you are considering that. Sorry, didn't look over what was mentioned about exhaust.

    Rebello 3.0 Datsun 240z Sound, Muffler - YouTube
    Brandon Yu
    '73 240, stroked Rebello 3.0, ported N42, 44 Mikunis, Adj. Tokicos, 5 speed, Trust 10.8lb Fly., Centerforce Dual Friction, 4.44 Nissan Comp LSD, MSA Header, Autopower rollbar, 16 " Riken Mesh Wheels.

    sound of my Z

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    Pricing: They seem to have something available for any reasonable budget with options to utilize used parts to cut costs. I happened to have sold my motorcycle for $3500 and that was enough to get me a basic motor with some used parts.

    By the way I made a killing on this deal. I had a 65hp motorcycle that I sold and was able to purchase an additional 200hp from the sale for my Z (up from 50, my Z is old and tired) so in the end ill see a 300% profit in HP on that investment
    Wow are you kidding, does 3500 include the carb and head work? 270HP for under 4k is really kinda crazy. Man maybe I can afford to build an L6 for my Z. I really want to keep it L6 powered but think I'm gonna be craving more power by next summer, hmm maybe it's to start a go fast savings.
    1974 early 260z, Weber DGVs killed my motor.....

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    Their is a guy on zcar.com parting out a 280Z 2+2 if anyone is interested in a 240mm flywheel.
    Parting out 1978 280Z 2+2 - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
    Kurbycar32 likes this.
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sixTZombii View Post
    Wow are you kidding, does 3500 include the carb and head work? 270HP for under 4k is really kinda crazy. Man maybe I can afford to build an L6 for my Z. I really want to keep it L6 powered but think I'm gonna be craving more power by next summer, hmm maybe it's to start a go fast savings.
    $3500 does NOT get you a 270hp motor, but it was enough to get an basic bored/stroked rebuilt motor with used parts. I added some stuff to that base price like enlarged valves, head porting, carb tweaking.. If you called them up with 4k im sure you could get over 200hp and keep your inline 6.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    $3500 does NOT get you a 270hp motor, but it was enough to get an basic bored/stroked rebuilt motor with used parts. I added some stuff to that base price like enlarged valves, head porting, carb tweaking.. If you called them up with 4k im sure you could get over 200hp and keep your inline 6.
    Ah alright, I figured it that was too good to be true but till those are comparable to any local shop that has no clue how to build an L6, see what came to mind for me, would be sending a head out to him be built and doing the bottom end myself
    1974 early 260z, Weber DGVs killed my motor.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2sixTZombii View Post
    Ah alright, I figured it that was too good to be true but till those are comparable to any local shop that has no clue how to build an L6, see what came to mind for me, would be sending a head out to him be built and doing the bottom end myself
    Datsun Spirit builds good motors on a budget too. I was looking at an ou can with STR ver.B without a core and shipping to Canada for a fair bit under $5000. I believe the engine itself is under $3500 if you provide a core. You can spend as much as you want, as you can with Rebello. I've read nothing but the highest opinions of Eiji regarding his customer service and engine build quality.

    I went with Rebello because I made contact with them first and it sounded like a <3 week completion at the time, also the power figures (or claims), seemed higher per dollar.

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    If you want huge and cheap power, a stock L28E / L28ET block running higher than stock boost (on the stock turbo) with some head work (which you're doing anyway), will make more power than either of our NA engines.

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    i strongly considered using Eiji to build my motor after seeing some of his build threads and hearing nothing but good things. I live less than an hour from Rebello and shipping alone was going to save me hundreds. If you must pay for shipping i would contact both companies and do a detailed comparison before pulling the trigger.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroDat View Post
    Their is a guy on zcar.com parting out a 280Z 2+2 if anyone is interested in a 240mm flywheel.
    Parting out 1978 280Z 2+2 - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
    EuroDat strikes again. I snagged the flywheel and flexplate from this guy. Thanks Chas
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Quote Originally Posted by oranngetang View Post
    If you want huge and cheap power, a stock L28E / L28ET block running higher than stock boost (on the stock turbo) with some head work (which you're doing anyway), will make more power than either of our NA engines.
    I was considering that as well, when my brother originally bought the car his plan involved a SBC. Which I too considered, but I feel like would be fun, but could kill the personality of the car. I will have to research the turbo motors some more. am excited to se the outcome of this thread, can't wait to see how the little 260 does, with it's new engine.
    1974 early 260z, Weber DGVs killed my motor.....

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    Here is what my old 3.0 Rebello stroker motor sounded like with Header and 3 inch exhaust

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnvGLdC6zzM

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dreco View Post
    Here is what my old 3.0 Rebello stroker motor sounded like with Header and 3 inch exhaust

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnvGLdC6zzM
    Better than the boobs thread..

    On another note the dude with the 2+2 sent me a 225mm flywheel when i specifically asked him for a 240mm, so i have in my possession a flywheel i dont need.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    thanks! I was running a lightweight flywheel with centerforce2 clutch at the time. The carbs were bored su's with shaved needles (Rebello rebuilt them).

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    Yup, that should be damn close to what i ordered. What size flywheel did you go with? and how does that centerforce feel in terms of clutch weight, i intend to daily drive this thing.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    I had the "full on" 3.0L with the head work and big cam. I think I used the 225. Pedal feel was stiff, but not like your on a leg press machine haha. I used a braided clutch line and daily drove it from time to time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    On another note the dude with the 2+2 sent me a 225mm flywheel when i specifically asked him for a 240mm, so i have in my possession a flywheel i dont need.
    Ouch, sorry I mentioned it now. I don't how he could not see if it was a 240mm. How hard can it be to measure a clutch disc?
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    No idea. Maybe I should have converted to inches when I asked him about it, this IS America after all and nobody here can work a metric system..
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

  77. #77
    Registered User RIP260Z's Avatar
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    Why not use the 225mm flywheel? I have on my Rebello
    RS30 June 1978 built 260Z (9th last)

    1965 Nissan Silvia (CSP311) the next restoration

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    Nice build. I went with a Rebello 3.0L stroker with ported SUs three years ago, and still have the grin on my face.

    I had it dyno'd because I wanted some semblance of a performance guarantee before it shipped (I'm in Canada and on the other side of the continent) and because they had the carbs and distributor (with Petronix) they could tune it on the dyno and I'd not have to fiddle with it. I've not changed anything on the setup since it shipped to me 3 years and 8000 miles ago.

    With his 63DI cam and pacesetter header it made 280hp at 7000rpm. But most importantly, the torque curve is nearly flat with nearly 250ft-lbs from 4k (the lowest rpm he measures on the dyno) through 6k. This is a very tractable setup that has great midrange punch and pulls hard to 7200. You will love this motor around town.

    I went with a Fidanza flywheel from Motorport and an ACT clutch. Very happy with both. I'd be reluctant to have your flywheel lightened because I have seen them come apart.

    I had planned to run the stock mechanical fuel pump but they didn't build the motor with the eccentric installed on the cam nose. So I installed a Holley electric back by the tank. The wiring for the pump was actually present on my 1/70 built series 1, and after I wiped off 40 years of road grime, the wires actually worked!

    As was mentioned, the SUs don't need much fuel pressure to keep the bowl full. Dave recommended 3-4psi for me. I still run rich. I have a 3.90 rear end and 5 speed and I get barely 12mpg.

    I'd go with a CDI ignition like Crane or MSD. I found a noticeable improvement in throttle response.

    I went with the AZC radiator and new hoses. New alternator and belts. New high capacity starter is a good investment too. Get good plug wires and NGK B8ES plugs is what Dave recommended for my build.

    While you're in there, I would change everything previously mentioned plus your heater core hoses.

    I have over 8000 miles on my Rebello including track days, and done nothing but oil changes. It has been dead reliable. People hear it idle they think because of the cam lope it's a V8, but once you open it up it just sounds like a very angry six. And it is. You will love it.

    Phil

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    Registered User Kurbycar32's Avatar
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    I just ordered the Fidanza flywheel which I verified was a 240mm setup in case anyone else was wondering. Fidanza part number 143281

    I've wanted a centerforce centrifugal clutch since I was like 14 so their marketing department is doing something right. I called and verified that a centerforce II series clutch would be rated to about 300 ft/lb so short of a horror story ill be ordering that up when I get over paying more than I intended on a flywheel.

    Public notice: Fidanza has billet aluminum flywheels listed for this car that weigh about 15 pounds and cost $220ish. Sounds perfect doesnt it? I called Fidanza and verified they haven't made them for several years. Then I put some feelers out and tried to dig one up anyway, no dice.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Small update and change of plans: Rebello has gone through 3 different N42 heads (2 purchased for this project) and ultimately none of them are serviceable. Since I have a functioning N42 head on the existing motor the plan is now to pull my motor first instead of having the new motor ready when the old one comes out. Motor removal party July 13th
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Registered User rossiz's Avatar
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    wow, bummer...
    did they say what made the other heads "not serviceable"?

    i'm going through an N42 myself right now and am interested in what to look for...
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

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    They did actually. The first one looked OK at first but after deep cleaning they found a few cracks that were not repairable. The second head was warped, and again too far gone to repair. The third head looked OK even after cleaning, they started doing the head work and found a dark spot which ended up being aluminium corroded below the surface likely as a result from sitting exposed to the elements. I am not a machinist but my experience has been to check the following:

    1. has the part been exposed to the elements for an extended period of time
    2. is the head flat or warped
    3. clean the heck out of it and inspect thoroughly including for discoloration

    These parts are getting old people
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Rust Free'ish zKars's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    I just ordered the Fidanza flywheel which I verified was a 240mm setup in case anyone else was wondering. Fidanza part number 143281

    I've wanted a centerforce centrifugal clutch since I was like 14 so their marketing department is doing something right. I called and verified that a centerforce II series clutch would be rated to about 300 ft/lb so short of a horror story ill be ordering that up when I get over paying more than I intended on a flywheel.

    Public notice: Fidanza has billet aluminum flywheels listed for this car that weigh about 15 pounds and cost $220ish. Sounds perfect doesnt it? I called Fidanza and verified they haven't made them for several years. Then I put some feelers out and tried to dig one up anyway, no dice.
    Great information about the 15 lb'er. Thanks.

    One note to all as well, the Fidanza 143281 has a 240mm friction surface but is drilled for both the 9 bolt 240 clutch plates AND the 6 bolt 225mm units. Point is, you are not forced to use a heavier 240 clutch plate to negate some of the weight savings, if all you're running is a nice stockish 2.4L.
    -----------------------------------------
    Jim
    73 240Z HLS30 149331
    69 510 PL510 77603

    www.zKars.com
    www.calgaryzclub.ca
    Reference materials
    www.xenonS30.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    They did actually... These parts are getting old people
    thanks for that - good info.
    i have a head that was cleaned and prepped and i'm going over it carefully to see if there's anything i need to do before going through the trouble of installing it.
    so far it's just been fixing a few threaded holes and doing a little bit of flow work on the combustion surface, the rest looks really good.
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

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    Default This weekend..

    Old motor out!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Nice clean garage; mine is a disaster. Dave called last week to let me know the engine is delayed. No crank pulleys in existence from the sounds of it. Ready for the dyno otherwise I believe. Wish I was ready to pull my engine out As is I can't even get wheels on it, to do it.

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    Things learned after complete tear down:

    1. This has a mild cam in it: Schneider 274F
    2. Flat top pistons
    3. the head is an N42, but there are no fuel injection ports for it. Rebello said they have only seen one or two of these in person, but there are no issues with using it.

    That explains why it took me several attempts to get the idle circuit perfect.. It also reinforces my theory that somebody loved this car, I'm guessing in the 90's.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Always seems to be a mystery as to what has been done to cars of this age. Mine appeared to be pretty original with the E31 head and 'A' cam. Still had the air pump, and associated smog thingies. I'm eagerly awaiting word of completion and shipping of my engine; I am really-super-disappointed about the whole process so far. Definitely could have spent my summer-play-fund in so many better ways, and may have bought a lot more engine if it was going to be a next year project. Really hoping the tardy 3.0L is worth the wait and free of headaches.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kurbycar32 View Post
    Things learned after complete tear down:

    1. This has a mild cam in it: Schneider 274F

    That explains why it took me several attempts to get the idle circuit perfect.. It also reinforces my theory that somebody loved this car, I'm guessing in the 90's.
    It's funny that you say that, as it's something I find myself saying alot when working on mine.
    Is that cam still nice? I beleive I have stock E30 cam in mine and wouldn't mind something stouter.
    1974 early 260z, Weber DGVs killed my motor.....

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    I turned it in for core. Everything looked rough when I pulled it. At least one valve was stuck, the valve seats were all wasted, the pistons were pitted, half the threads were stripped in the head. I did find stuff that was once cool, but its all junk now. Before deciding to buy a new motor I inspected this one and did what I could to keep it moving but I was new to Z's and wasnt able to identify specific parts like I can now. This time on teardown i knew what I was looking at
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    Wow- hope it's worth the wait! It seemed forever to get my engine done locally, but in comparison I guess it want too bad. But my head was serviceable !
    Just grabbed another e-88 for spare too!!
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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    Yeah sounds like your car had a rough go, I think my engines been out before because it's painted gold acording to the lore that followed the car it's was rebuilt in the eighties when much else was done to her. She pulls really hard through all the gears, for a car with 90k that sat for 14 years, so I believe it, I would to crack mine open with a real Z guy on hand and see if it's been warmed up.
    1974 early 260z, Weber DGVs killed my motor.....

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    Any updates on the engine build? Who knew 5 weeks would become 5 months!

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    Quote Originally Posted by oranngetang View Post
    Any updates on the engine build? Who knew 5 weeks would become 5 months!
    Seriously, spitz17 said that in the beginning and was dead on. I had about a 2 month delay due to lack of head availability and then some more delay for me to pull everything and send it in. I got an update last week saying that the components were all ready. The head was done, the block has been done a long time now and they finished my carbs, everything needed to be bolted together. I called just a minute ago and got the same update.

    I have been slowly not working on the engine bay in the meantime. I hung a hammock in my back yard on Tuesday and took a nap after a dip in the spa instead, then my daughter brought me a beer without even asking. While holding a (different) beer and staring at the area I determined that there won't be a need for any metal work so its mostly justa scuff and paint situation. My body shop buddy just had a baby so I think the engine bay painting is on hold for a little while. Once I get the motor ill probably stop procrastinating and do the engine bay over a weekend, then install the new motor on another.

    On a positive note this is the longest this car has sat still since its been in my possession, including when I first got it and the car didn't run.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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    It's incredibly disappointing being given a time frame and having it mean nothing. I ordered the engine when there was still snow on the ground, there will now be snow on the ground again when it arrives... The car will now take another calendar year to complete, I missed the events I wanted the car to attend this summer, AND I know this is going to somehow cause an issue with my current conflict between my ride height and GC... Since I cannot drive or see where it sits with a complete drivetrain in it...

    I'd take my money back at anytime at this point.

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    My 3.2l build took about 8 months on my Rebello. Dave always would keep me posted on the progress. Mine is still sitting in the shipping crate waiting for me to finish the car.

    Steve

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    Nix240Z, May I ask how much your 3.2 build cost. Thanks.
    72 240 Z.
    75 911S.
    88 951Turbo.
    88 944 NA.
    91 318I

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    Im in the same boat. I ordered mine the beginning of May. He told me it would be 2 months. He did tell me that the guy that does his headwork had a death in the family, sounded like his father, so that delayed him quite a bit. Im trying to be patient but im kinda at the point in my build where i'm ready to put in the motor. I dont wanna keep calling and bugging him though.

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    I was there today. They were busy but Dave said "racing season is over" so he may have time to finish other projects. To be fair, everything has to be as planned for his timeline to work. All core parts must be serviceable, no one in the talent chain can be sick or have a death in the family. He said 10 weeks for mine, but I haven't even pulled the head he's going to be modifying (E31) so I'm my own problem as far as time is concerned. Mine will be a 10.2:1 3.0 liter with 200+ at the rear wheels. The torque though is the real story with these motors. I just need enough to overcome the talent difference between me and Silver Streak... 8-D
    LeonV and Travel'n Man like this.
    Rob
    2000 BMW R1100 RT-SE (for sale)
    1999 Toyota 4Runner Supercharged
    1975 Porsche 914 stroker motor autoX car
    1973 Datsun 240Z Restoration project. New paint in original white. E31 head on 2.4 block. Nissan Motorsports header. R200 with Nissan motorsports LSD.

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    I called for my weekly update call. Supposedly the motor is finished, I'll go pick it up next weekend. First post was on 3-3-14, today is 9-12-14. Total time: 6 months 2 weeks

    also post #100
    Last edited by Kurbycar32; 09-12-2014 at 02:34 PM.
    Early 1974 260z
    https://sites.google.com/a/thecomputerrehab.com/260z/

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