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Thread: Removing/installing fuel tank

  1. #1
    Registered User rocketdog's Avatar
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    Default Removing/installing fuel tank

    I have been getting lots of crud in the fuel filter requiring a change every several hundred miles. So after 40 years the tank needed cleaning. I downloaded the Z Tech Tips for tank removal from the atlanticz.ca website. Most of the tips are similar except on my late 260 there is no need to do anything inside the hatch. The day before the removal I shot PB Blaster on the tank strap bolts. Removing the two vent hoses from the rear of the tank was my most difficult task since there is so little room to work. I had to cut the larger old braided line off the tank connection. The filler line actually came off easily using the weight of the dropping tank to help slip the filler hose off the tank connection.

    Performance Radiator in Phoenix did the cleaning and also banged out much of a dent I had in the rear of the tank. Cost was $165 and took them about a week. They are a national chain I believe.

    While the tank was out I checked my fuel sending unit as I was not getting any reading on the fuel gauge. The ohm readings for the sending unit were in spec and fluctuated correctly when the float was moved. This meant the fuel gauge was the problem. I tried several tests trying to see if the gauge would work and I got no results. I dropped the gauge off at Z Car Source in Phoenix (they have a website) and they recommended a rebuild to make sure the wiring was compatible. They shipped the completed gauge back to me within a day.

    Installing the cleaned tank: After regluing the rubber bumpers back on I jacked the tank up and canted it at a angle to get the two rear vent hoses attached. That was the worst part of the reinstall as there is little room for hands to work. Also having to cut one of the vent hoses required a splice of 5/8" heater hose to make it long enough to attach. Replacing that hose would be a huge task as it winds up through the rear and side of the back hatch to the evap tank. Once I got those attached I used the jack under the tank to push it up to help reinstall the filler tube which takes more finagling. I put all new fuel lines on and new filter of course. Connecting the fuel sending unit wiring is fussy. Those connectors are the trickiest to get on and 40-year-old rubber covers don't flex easily. I put dielectric grease on the connections.

    I reinstalled the fuel/amp gauge, filled the tank and got a full reading!!! Finally after all these years. A bit of cranking to get fuel up to the front but she runs fine and probably likes all the nice new clean fuel.
    Late 260Z; 2005 Daytona Blue paint; Triple Webers 40DCOE; competition springs w/Tokico HP shocks; Koenig 17x7 Crosshairs w/ Yokohama AVS 215/45 WR 17; Original owner; Show car w/ many awards

  2. #2
    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    Congratulations! Nothing worse than a good running car running out of gas.
    1972 240Z #918 New Sight Orange
    1977 280Z #305 Light Blue Metallic
    1972 240Z #110 Persimmons Red

  3. #3
    Registered User Travel'n Man's Avatar
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    Hope you cleaned the ground for the fuel sending unit harness "while you were at it".
    Life's a journey; enjoy the ride!

    Mitchell
    L28 - N42 Block w/Flat tops - N42 Rebello Head & Cam - Triple 40 PHH Mikuni's - Headers - Recaro Seats -
    R180 3.9 Diff - Close Ratio 5 Speed - Toyota Vented Brake Upgrade w/ Porterfield High Performance Pads & Shoes

    1972 Datsun 240z
    HLS30-75040


  4. #4
    Registered User Pop's Z's Avatar
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    I hope the heater hose splice will not deteriorate when exposed to gas fumes. That hose is a PITA to fix.

    Cheers, Mike
    '73 240Z, 80,000 original miles, F54, N42 massaged and shaved (10.5-1 comp.), stage 2 cam, ZX ignition, Header, 2 1/2" exhaust w/ magnaflow muffler, 5 spd (Maxima), 4:11 R180 (200SX), 15" Rota RBs 205-60/15 Bridgestone Grid 109s, KYB struts, stock springs, rubber bushings, MSA sway bars and strut bars, HotRod Air hvac system, '90 300ZX seats, upgraded sound system, BRE-type spook and spoiler

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