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Thread: Brake Bleeding Issue

  1. #1
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    Default Brake Bleeding Issue

    Hi guys,

    I attempted to make my own brake lines over the last two days and I thought it went pretty well. I used Fedhill copper/alloy lines, and their appropriate fittings. Using the newly purchased Eastwood flaring tool it was a breeze.

    I noticed on the left rear wheel cylinder, when tightening the line it had quite a bit more friction then the practically finger tightening method I was using on the others. It also kept screwing in farther and farther.

    Which comes to today, I bled the entire system. By the end of it I had a very firm pedal and was very pleased until I noticed that one particular fitting had a slight leak. Tried tightening it but had no luck.

    I decided to redo the line. As I unscrewed the fitting, I noticed that the flare had basically unravelled itself, and it was now a piece of straight copper again. I thought that may have been my issue, a faulty flare. Put in the new line, and it still leaks, although this time it was much easier to screw in. I also have no pedal feel at all. It goes flat to the floor.

    Could I have buggered up the wheel cylinder? Is it possible to tap a new thread? Possible damage from over tightening maybe? Anyone experienced something like this?

  2. #2
    Registered User Oiluj's Avatar
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    Default

    I hate brake problems..!

    "Zero" pedal feel does not indicate a small leak. Look under the car for evidence of brake fluid.
    No pedal feel sounds more like a problem at the master cylinder.

    1st, repair the leaky line, then go back to basics. Start at the "top", and work your way down. Check the fluid reservoirs to see if they are empty, and maybe bleed the master cylinder. Then bleed the brakes in order, looking for leaks as you go. It's best if you have a helper or a pressure bleeder, so you can watch what's happening at each brake.

    To your last question, it is possible to tap new threads, providing you have the correct tools and the threads are no too deformed. The "seal" is not made by the threads though, but is a valve seal at the end of the bleed screw. Take one all the way out and you will see what I mean. It's also possible that you have some dirt in the metal-metal seal area on the brake/bleeder, which can cause a leak as well.

    Good Luck!
    Julio
    1972 240Z (in-progress, 95% complete)
    CZC# 15388

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    Default

    Thanks for the suggestions. Tomorrow i'll pull it apart and see if I can see anything abnormal in the threads/or abnormalities/dirt in the wheel cylinder. Good thing is the local hardware store has tap and dye sets on sale on Thursday My tool collection is getting pretty big with this car.

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    Took it back apart, and looked inside the wheel cylinder. A piece of the first flare which fell apart the first time around was sitting in there. My system now seems to be leak free! Bled the master cylinder and rear brakes and we now have a firm pedal once again!

  5. #5
    Registered User Oiluj's Avatar
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    Congrats!
    Julio
    1972 240Z (in-progress, 95% complete)
    CZC# 15388

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