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Thread: Crankshaft Pulley Removal

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    Default Crankshaft Pulley Removal

    Hello,

    Trying to install a stock cooling fan to replace the flex lite fan that was in the car when I bought it.

    Once I got the stock fan installed I noticed it is rubbing the A/C portion (3rd row) of the crankshaft pulley. It looks like this third row is actually an add on to the 2 row pulley that is on there. The manual says to use a puller. Just curious if it is the same process with an "add on" pulley?

    I'll try and post a picture later when I'm on my computer.

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    I think there should be a spacer between the fan and water pump. I'm not positive but that would give you a little more clearance if I'm correct. I've worked on a lot of cars so I could be mistaken. You may already have a spacer there.

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    philbar73 might be thinking of the fan clutch. Which you would probably be using if you're going back to stock, since the stock fan won't work without it.

    You didn't mention any details about the car or engine, like year, stock engine, etc.

    I have a ZX motor in the garage with the third pulley. It is attached with 6 bolts to bosses in the second pulley. Nothing to press on to so I'm sure it would fall right off if I removed the six bolts.
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

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    Sorry, 1971 240z. Stock with aftermarket A/C(I think. York unit). The spacer is in there and it still doesn't clear. This pulled looks like ts held on by two bolts. I removed them and gave it a slight tap with a rubber mallet but no movement. Really don't want to be hitting the harmonic balancer. I'll try and get the pictures up soon.


    I guess the AC is coming out (never worked anyhow), or I'll go the electric fan route.

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    Crank shaft bolt must be removed to remove 3rd pulley.

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by HuD 91gt; 10-16-2014 at 05:42 PM.

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    Z dreams, if that's the case I guess i'm going the electric fan route. I don't think I have a chance of removing that bolt without an impact gun. Using the starter bump method i've seen online seems dangerous for me and my car. Silly question, but it is a standard thread bolt is it not (Counterclockwise to loosen).
    Last edited by HuD 91gt; 10-16-2014 at 05:41 PM.

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    I recently went through this process (crank bolt removal, followed by pulley removal) with my '72. I considered all of the alternatives and decided to start with my electric impact wrench (1/2" drive, nothing special). Radiator was out of the car, so I had good access to the crank bolt. The cylinder head was off the engine, so no hope of relying on compression to resist torque applied to the bolt. I just put the car in gear and crossed my fingers. The bolt gave way very easily. Despite the high torque used to install this bolt, its threads live in a very clean environment and are unlikely to have rusted (even though the bolt head will probably be very rusty). Mine had clesan threads from top to bottom.

    I used a 26mm, 6-point, non-impact type socket (impact type socket's walls may be too thick to fit into the pulley recess).

    I expect that using a breaker bar instead of an impact wrench will probably require a lot more effort towards keeping the crank from rotating. The 'high-torque chatter' generated by the impact wrench seems to be the key.

    The next 'non-challenge' turned out to be getting the pulley off the crank. Here, too, I was afraid that the pulley would be rust-seized onto the crank snout. Instead, it actually offered very little resistance and slid off quite smoothly. I used a steering wheel puller, with long-ish bolts (M8, IIRC) threaded into the two threaded holes in the pulley hub. Had to use a tap to clean out the pulley hole threads first.

    The engine I was working on was high-mileage and I doubt whether the pulley had ever been removed previously.

    Rossiz posted a nice review of his pulley/timing cover removal process about a month ago, with lots of pictures.

    Your results may vary, of course, but I think you may find it's not so problematic as you're expecting.

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    p.s. The big crank bolt uses regular threads, so you turn CCW to remove.

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    The crank bolt is 27mm or 1 1/16th inch. I use the latter, tight fit.

    Bonzi Lon
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    fwiw - i pulled mine with a breaker bar, without any real drama. 148K on the car, pulley was rusty on the outside, bolt was clean on the inside. i had the oil pan off and put a piece of wood between the block skirt and the crank to lock things in place. wasn't a big deal. getting the pulley off took some creativity, as the two threaded holes in the pulley for a pair of puller bolts were mucked up so i had to rig up a makeshift setup with 3 long bolts and some bailing wire wrapped around the outside of the pulley, but it came off with very little resistance.

    don't pry - pull straight off.
    HuD 91gt likes this.
    '78 280z - Daily driver/work in progress...

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    Thanks for the reply guys! I might try and get it off this afternoon. I ended up purchasing a new rad, water pump and some electric fans yesterday so having to remove it is now not needed. I think the A/C is still coming out though.

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