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Thread: Sandblasting the K

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    V8 convertible 240kconvertible's Avatar
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    Default Sandblasting the K

    I spoke with John from Envirostrip this morning about sandblasting my shell. I wanted to know how much I would save by doing the job myself. He quoted me $2000 gst inc for a sandblast and primer of my shell. It appears I'm not saving much money at all by doing it myself and if I add in the cost of what I earn an hour plus my mates I'm actually losing money. I'm already at $1000 for primer, grit and petrol. All that's left is more petrol, food, beer and time.

    Average cost is $2000 to $2500 doing the stripping yourself, cost goes up a lot if he has to remove parts.To get this price the car had to be stripped and be just a rolling shell. John also blasts at low pressure 30psi to avoid any panel distortion. This he can do quite effectively.

    Also if you choose to get it powder coated he always uses an etch primer underneath. The only thing I wasn't happy with about his job was that he wouldn't get into the inside of a lot of places.

    http://www.envirostrip.com.au/

    Address 3 Cosgrove Road
    Enfield NSW
    AUSTRALIA 2136

    enquiries@envirostrip.com.au
    sales@envirostrip.com.au

    Phone/Fax 02 9642 7533
    Mobile 0410620743 or 0433176796

    I have attached a few photo's of my passenger side chassis rail, as you can see the long box section that goes into the engine bay was full of rust, the big lunch box size sections next to it were fine. The driver side rail had only just started to go.

    This would not be fixed by a sandblaster unless you opened up the rail for them.

    Can other K owners go and check the state of their rails please, you can get your finger into the big hole without laying on the ground. I'd like to know if anyone else is having the same problem as me.
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  2. #2
    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    wow, that is a bit of rust!! i luckily didn't find any rust on the underside of my car, i do wish i POR15'd it though before i srayed 5 cans of underbody deadener under there though (if only i knew better back then )

    I am pretty sure that the majority of my body should be okay, so i am not sure what would be better... sandblast (probably more $$$, and possible warping), or just scrape the hi-build off with paint stripper (should be cheaper, and i guess i can do panel by panel, and POR15 at the same time)

    it would be nice to somehow treat the rails though.. not quite sure how easy it would be to get a good coat of something in there though
    07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
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    skyc110 skyc110's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    Also if you choose to get it powder coated he always uses an etch primer underneath. .
    what is the powder for ?
    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    The only thing I wasn't happy with about his job was that he wouldn't get into the inside of a lot of places..
    so dif, and he want to save time and grit..
    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    the long box section that goes into the engine bay was full of rust, .
    also me. early in the 70's & 80's our Ks weren't with enthusiasts, when the car get buncher (air out of the tyre) they rise up
    the car (by jack) from any point no care wether that point is designated for raising or no, so sometimes the jack goes inside the body making bends and holes helped by the cumulated rust cos of rain and wet mud etc, also I can blame some workshop whom not care about where to rais the car from.btw I dont take my K to ws unless if I realy cant go further.
    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    .big lunch box size sections next to it were fine...
    the two perpendicular rails ? if show photo Anderw
    in my opinian rust depends on
    1- how far away is the K from the sea.
    2- how rainful is the area which the K live in.
    3- how much the owner care about his K, dont clean you car daily, do drive in muddy roads etc.

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    V8 convertible 240kconvertible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyc110
    what is the powder for ?
    .
    The powder is just another form of paint, do you have powdercoaters over there?

    My K has lived near the sea for most of it's life, hence the rust problem. I'm confident that it will be fine for many years after I'm finished restoring her though.

    To get into the rails to protect them you can wash them out (por has a product to do this) then blow them dry and spray a heap of fine mist coats into the inside. It was recommended to me to put a few nice drill size holes in them to get the spray in. If you go to one of the places that specialise in rust treatment you will see some body deadener guns with long rubber hoses on them to get into all the little hidden holes.

    I've just taken squares of steel out so I can get to it all 100%. After these have been welded up I'll have to spray inside again to cover the welds. You wouldn't cut them up unless the rust had attacked a lot of the car and opened up these spots.

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    skyc110 skyc110's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    do you have powdercoaters over there?.
    am not sure, could be, but I didn't see yet. what am sure about - sb then strengh then primer and some put diluted liquid asphalt.

    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    It was recommended to me to put a few nice drill size holes in them to get the spray in. ?.
    its a good tech. doesn't affect the strenght of the rail. but the SB grit mayn't reach the inside well .
    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    I've just taken squares of steel out so I can get to it all 100%. ?.
    wont affects the strenght?
    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    You wouldn't cut them up unless the rust had attacked a lot of the car and opened up these spots.
    this what force to do that. now u need to go in the car cabinet remove the carbet and inspect what is under the driver & the pass. feet

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    V8 convertible 240kconvertible's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skyc110
    wont affects the strenght?
    I'll be welding them back up with plates so strength won't be affected.

    If your just going to drill into the rails just wash it out, no sandblasting and then coat it with a paint product. It's not the best way to do it but is better then nothing. A lot of panelshops won't even wash them out they just blow in there with compressed air and then just hit it with the spray.

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    skyc110 skyc110's Avatar
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    a rust such lik this
    http://00op.com/up/uploads06-11-06/68c24c0799.bmp
    make me sad, that is why in one of my threads said that sometimes
    I dream if nissan made the body from ss or aluminum.
    what to do ... we have to live with that (remedy, remdey, keep spending $ )
    but all in all its funny. wish u good luck with ur project, wish u the best saving

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    V8 convertible 240kconvertible's Avatar
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    Well I have finall begun the stripping and primering af the shell. I used a pressure pot sander at 160psi from 2 foot away with no distortsion problems but only in the engine bay. We tested what it took to warp a panel and it seems to be when the steel heats up it bends, we had it glowing red on a test piece. I found a heap of accident damage to the driver side front guard, it had been in a small accident but didn't affect the chassis rails.

    A lot of what you see i did by my self in about 5 hours with a heap of problems going wrong and only having a mate mix up paint for me. The blaster kept on cloggin as there was moisture in the garnet grit and the gun I was using was just spitting out paint.

    I will be using paint stripper to do all the large panels as I can't risk ruining them with the blaster. In the end I'll only use the blaster for the inside cabin and under body all other bits will be done with stripper or the hand help blaster. The small hand held blaster is slow as and is only good for the hard to get to spots.

    POR 15 arrives tomorrow. I paid approx $350 for 4 lt of POR 15 4 lt of metal ready and 4 lt of marine wash.
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  9. #9
    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    looking good!

    did you order the por straight from PPC? what colour por are you going to use? i thought there was a white one, but there isn't so i am tossing up between clear (though, i wouldn't know where i have POR'd), or grey. POR do a very good paint stripper too apparently..
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    I got the paint from Vintage vee dub supplies in Campsie as a friend and i went there recently. They had to get the Por 15 in black sent in so I guess it was coming from PPC anyway. It sprays on so nicely and is a pleasure to use, the system still freaks me out though as you have to wash it with water just before you spray. I know it works but I still don't like it.

    I'll keep you updated with the progress on the PORing, I'll be using a modified body deadener gun to spray it into all the cavities which are all opened up now. We cut the gun midway along the shaft and put a piece of hose in between so that it is flexible and then start spraying and just pull it out.

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    What do you mean by "wash it with water just before you spray"? according to the directions, the surface needs to be bone dry.. but it does use humidity in the air to cure..

    let us know how it goes, i might start stripping some of the small panels, and start PORing too this weekend, hopefully i can do most of it over the xmas holidays.
    07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
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    V8 convertible 240kconvertible's Avatar
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    If you want to go the whole way with POR you have to first spray wash it with marine wash leave for 15min-30min then wash off with water. Then spray on Metal ready leave for 30 min then wash off with water and dry straight away. The metal ready will zinc phosphate etch the metal. You can get away with only using the metal ready and POR, you don't have to get the Marine clean.

    It recommends to do two coats of POR minimum maybe 3 if it's a bad area. If a coat is left for more than 12 hours it should be sanded back. I'm really looking forward to spraying 4 litres of POR onto the vert.

    If you go down the paint stripper road on your engine bay keep me updated with the amount of time it takes to do.

    Damn Damn Damn I just read that if the area is sandblasted you don't need any marine clean or metal ready Doh

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    Don't feel bad - you might not NEED marine clean & metal ready but American friends tell me it helps even after sandblasting.
    Something about unless you are absolutely and totally sure you get ALL the rust including surface.
    The only time I used it I stuck with their guidance and then used a large evaporative air cooler to pump as much moist air as possible around the job for several hours. Seems to have worked!!

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    i spent the weekend stripping the Bonnet and boot lid with the full complement of POR products

    the POR paint stripper worked very well, the thicker you lay it on the better! it does stink though.. it was pretty cool to watch the paint bubble off in large sections. It did take a while to strip the underside of the bonnet.. lots and lots of scraping in very hard to get places.. downside is of course, i couldn't get right into the frame..

    marine clean and metal ready went on okay, it is easy to wash into hard to get places.

    POR15 grey went on okay as well, just brushed it on as suggested. I didn't get it into the inside frame of the bonnet like i wanted to, i am not sure if i should bother trying to wash it through, it could be a waste, but it is also an area which i would imagine is prone to rust.

    I think it was good that i did strip them, there were lots of small veins of rust on the tops, and a fair bit of surface rust on the bonnet frames

    not quite finished yet (stripping took all of yesterday, and i only had time to clean and paint 1/2 of it today), but i will get some pics up.. i also tried stripping the front lower valance, but it is a bit of a mess with surface rust.. i think sand blasting is the go for that one..

    next weekend, i will look at stripping one of the fenders (we did a bit of work bending/cutting in the guards to fit the front flares)

    I think the POR stripper will work pretty well on the engine bay, just not looking forward to all the crevices.. body panels should be fairly easy..

    i used about 150mls of POR15 for the bonnot bottom and the boot lid, i think the 4L will go fairly quickly
    Last edited by khughes; 11-19-2006 at 04:00 AM.
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    I also had a fun weekend using POR, did you manage to spray it on your face and hands? I seem to be very talented in that department and can't wait for my first meeting Monday morning.

    My bonnet is absolutely rooted with rust flakes floating around the inside of it, it's so bad I feel like getting another bonnet (this is actually the second anyway) as I will have to seperate the frame from the top to fix the rust. The bonus is that I'll know it's fine for 15 years+ as opposed to getting another and having this problem in 2 years.
    Aren't you worried about the inside Kent?
    I'm kinda considering just spraying por with the spray pot with flexible tip into the cavities and just being done with it. A few really rusty test pieces I por'd came up so good I feel like it would be fine to just brush the loose rust off and por without removing every spec of the rust.

    What do you think guys? is the bonnet worth seperating into 2 pieces to totally fix every spec of rust?

    I blasted the inner guards and most of the underbody and inside the chassis rails then applied two coats of POR. It looks really good I'll post photo's when the rear is finished. That's 2 full days spent so far just blasting and primering the body I can't wait for it to be finished.

    Sandblast the whole engine bay Kent, mine went fine (no warping) and was stripped and sprayed in a day with just me doing it. In saying that I will not be sandblasting any large flat panels from fear of warping.

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    I am afraid, any compressor spraying (or large areas of sandblasting) is out of the question for me where the car is, so i am going to have to resort to more complex methods

    It looks like ppc do a aerosol pass through type spray can, which may allow me to spray the por15 into the frames.. seems $$$ at $18, but i have not seen anything similar so far.

    i hope that it is okay to leave the metal bare after metal readying it (and wishing it off), for a week.. hope it doesn't rust up even more!?

    it would be quite an effort to seperate the frame and bonnet... if you did, you could look at getting a carbon fibre/fibreglass copy made and bond it to the steel frame that would solve any rust issues !!!
    Last edited by khughes; 11-19-2006 at 09:50 PM.
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    I should be finished my shell shortly, when that's done we will be able to take yours up to Newcastle and do the engine bay if you want. I also have a modified body deadner gun that you could borrow to get into the cavities, it works alright.

    It says on the Por instructions that it adheres best to rusty surfaces so I wouldn't worry about 1 week. I did a few test pieces that just had the rust removed by rubbing a hand over them and they came up fantastic with 1 thin coat.

    A copy of the bonnet would be great but it is already missing some of the front left corner. It's so bad I'm not sure I should even bother with it.... it has to be pulled apart to be fixed that's for sure.

    My bro missed the M3 auction at the insurance place so won't be bringing it into the country. He's gone and bought a M3 CSL now...surprise surprise I'll be aiming to get that over in a year. At least I can book the vert back into the engineers for the engine and suspension mods asap

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    thanks, i may take you up on the offer of the body deadner gun.. that could be a huge help.

    here are some photo's of my efforts last weekend, http://www.project240k.com/images/th...s.php?album=30

    yesterday we spent stripping the front fenders, and welding up the ex-bogged up rust holes... it certainly slows you down when you hit bog..

    I also started stripping the front of the car to see how it would go on the 2-pak, and it came up very well, all the little crevices are a pain, but nothing lots of stripper and wire wool doesn't fix i don't think the engine bay will be too much of a hassle, unless it is bogged up too.. i took some photo's of the fenders and front, but they didn't come out on my phone so i will get them next weekend..

    i have almost used the 4L of stripper (probably 300ml left) just on the bonnet, boot lid, front fenders.. but well worth it so far! i am hoping i get a lot better coverage of the POR
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    you must've got quite a workout, the k having the heaviest bonnets of all the datsuns

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    it was a lot worse trying to swish a bonnet full of water and marine clean around
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    Deftly daft Alfadog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mat Big Hat
    you must've got quite a workout, the k having the heaviest bonnets of all the datsuns
    Heavier than a 260C or 280C?? How many bonnets have you picked up

    Anyone want to make a fibreglass bonnet? I'd buy one.

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    me too .
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    Datsaholic Mr Camouflage's Avatar
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    Someone makes them. Remember the Blue 240K that got sold to a p plater on here, then he started complaining about it being a "death trap". He re-sold it again, but when he sold it it had a a F/G bonnet, as aparently the metal one was so rusty.

    So someone must make one.
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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    V8 convertible 240kconvertible's Avatar
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    Can't stop fantasising about a carbonfibre bonnet as we don't really have enough numbers to warrant building the moulds for the fibreglassing.

    I hopefully will be finished the majority of stripping/painting the shell this weekend so you should be able borrow the modified gun next week to get into the cavities Kent.

    As it stands i'm going to drop my bonnet, doors and boot lid into Redistrip at blacktown to strip them next week at a cost of $600 gst inc. $2000 to strip a whole car not painted though. I'll then cover them in POR before high build primer. The bonnet will be going to the panel beaters to get welded up the front passenger corner exists no more.

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    oh man, after spending all saturday stripping the battery tray area of the engine bay, i must say, getting the thing sandblasted sure looks inviting

    but better to spend a couple of extra hrs of my time rather than pay somebody else i figure (atleast for what i can do myself)..

    I think some of my larger photos are dead (stupid software!), but here are some shots of my hard work (up to the suspension tower, it is a little hard to see grey on grey! )
    http://www.project240k.com/images/th...s.php?album=30

    i don't think there is a way around not removing the brake and clutch booster, the brake booster is too big to strip/spray around.. i hope it isn't too difficult
    Last edited by khughes; 12-03-2006 at 11:05 PM.
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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    i would have thought that to CF the bonnet, it would cost exactly the same to make a mould etc...

    as good as it would be, i think it would be a little too *****ly from an engineering point of view certainly if done to a budget.

    let em know how it goes, i will have to get my front chin valance sandblasted, and redistrip are very local!

    i may not need to grab the gun off you for a good couple of weeks (until xmas is over atleast, i cringe at the thought of stripping deadener off the bottom of the car!)
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    Datsaholic Mr Camouflage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by khughes

    Yeah, for some reason I though it had an FG bonnet.

    Might ask lurch if he knows.
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    Registered User aarc240's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by khughes
    as good as it would be, i think it would be a little too *****ly from an engineering point of view certainly if done to a budget.
    Have a read of the National Code of Practice (NCOP) for modification and construction of light vehicles.

    Replacement of removable panels with ones made from GRP is specifically permitted with a minimum thickness of 3mm.
    That requirement is there for the sole reason of preventing 'crash through' intrusion and subsequent increased likelihood of injury to a pedestrian.
    Note this does NOT include doors or door skins which must remain metal!

    So, all that is needed for ECF (epoxy bonded carbon fibre) is for the impact resistance of the panel at the desired thickness to be shown to be at least equivalent to that of 3mm GRP.

    The manufacturer of the material can provide the data needed.

    The main difference is that a metal panel (even aluminium) will bend and stretch on impact. GRP will bend to a much more limited degree and then fail catastrophically ('punch through'). CF exhibits similar characteristics although the amount of energy absorbed before 'punch through' is much higher for the same thickness.

    The downside with CF is that when it does fail it produces some very nasty pieces which still retain that incredible resistance to deformation and have razor sharp edges as well!
    I've seen such pieces punch straight through the tread area of interstate truck tires, destroying the case in the process.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    Can't stop fantasising about a carbonfibre bonnet as we don't really have enough numbers to warrant building the moulds for the fibreglassing
    A CF bonnet will require a mould every bit as expensive as that for GRP.

    For strength, carbon fibre construction is done by laying up the epoxy and CF, bagging the whole thing, pumping out all the air and then baking in a high temperature oven. If high strength is needed then another outer skin, bag or shell is required so that the article being molded can be placed under pressure.

    Things like carbon fibre race car tubs, wings etc etc are done in an 'autoclave' with a complete mould set covering every surface and under VERY high pressure as well as high temperature.

    Not withstanding all that, I must admit I've been toying with the idea of a ferro-concrete mould of the bonnet and then doing a bagged & baked ECF replica. Bloody expensive and time consuming though!

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    well, if you ever decide to go ahead with it, i am sure there will be some of us very interested in sharing the costs!
    07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
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    Sorry aarc240 I assumed it would cost more for carbon fibre moulds.
    I'd really like one but I can't see it happening it's just too big a cost for such a few bonnets. Epoxy resin is horrible stuff to work with, it and sanding drove me from the family business of boat building to a less dirty life of sales repping.

    If someone ever did get it going you'd have to sell them over the net and make about 50 to recoup your costs and time I reckon. First thing we need though is to find the perfect bonnet to start with.

    How long has it taken you on the engine bay so far Kent? the pictures look good.

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    too long no seriously, not much has actually been done, it took a whole day just to do the left side of the front panel and that front side of the bay!

    i just have to keep reminding myself that every bit of rust i uncover makes it well worth the effort! i have to say, i can't wait to just pour the stripper on the roof and sides.. smooth surfaces are very nice to strip..

    i have spent probably 3 full days on it all so far (with some help from my girlfriend, my chief POR painter)
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    ok, ok, so it's among the heaviest datsun bonnets

    remember us yanks didn't get those bomber glorias

    howsabout a carbon fibre bonnet ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    Sorry aarc240 I assumed it would cost more for carbon fibre moulds.
    I'd really like one but I can't see it happening it's just too big a cost for such a few bonnets.
    You're right about the cost, particularly if done the 'conventional' way.
    A ferro-concrete mould is a short life and relatively cheap solution but for a very limited number, who cares?
    A bit like Holden with the last Monaro - to make steel dies for those big side panels would have killed the project so they used ceramic dies. Life expectancy was in the order of 250,000 articles maximum but then they sure weren't planning on building millions and probably never anticipated building as many as they did.

    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    Epoxy resin is horrible stuff to work with, it and sanding drove me from the family business of boat building to a less dirty life of sales repping.
    Funny about that, I got out of my original trade for the same reason (though not the same trade).

    Quote Originally Posted by 240kconvertible
    First thing we need though is to find the perfect bonnet to start with.
    That's probably the main reason to get me off the backside and do a mould - the bonnet on our car is dead straight (at least it is as yet).
    The fault with it is minor rust in the frame, easily covered to make a usable master for the frame mould part of it.

    If I can con my ex son-in-law into it there just might be a chance. He loves playing with that sort of stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by aarc240
    If I can con my ex son-in-law into it there just might be a chance. He loves playing with that sort of stuff.
    can we convince him with cases of beer?
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    ok, tried that - he says a deal for a dozen cases of Wild Turkey!
    I suspect his distant relationship with one infamous Ned Kelly is showing up.

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    that sounds like a bargain!
    07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
    1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212

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    So all we need to do is get 12 people willing to buy a case of wild turkey each. I'd love a carbon fibre bonnet but will still drop my rat**** rusted bonnet off this week to get stripped along with the doors and boot lid. Can't really see us all getting this together in time.

    Engineers are booked in for mid Feb and the shell is nearly ready so that photo of the R230 in a 240k should be coming shortly Kent. If the engineer puts me off again to work on some cobra I'm going to cry.

    If anyone is upset about their neighbours making noise over christmas please direct your complaints at me, I turned two linked compressors on Christmas eve and Boxing day. When I heard one of my neighbours start playing bagpipes on Christmas day I nearly turned them on then too. Yes I'm sick in the head working an a Datto during Christmas but I just can't help it.

    I've attached photos of what's been done so far, they pretty much speak for themselves.
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    V8 convertible 240kconvertible's Avatar
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    And some more, thought I'd include a shot of my Bugatti badge, they are making the worlds fastest car, even if it is just a quad turbo'd VW W12

    My friends call the vert the "Por car" now, as I've ended up doing everything in Por 15. Rust be damned.

    I can't describe how horrible it was using heat guns in the middle of a nice hot summer day to strip the sound deadening from the floor pan, take my advice do it in winter!
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    I have a problem viewing photos sometimes only a few of them shop up most of the time, it drives me nuts as I can't see what people are talking about. Can anyone help me with this problem?

    I can't even upload photos now for some reason.

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    that is certainly an interesting way to get to the underbody.. i am struggling with having to do that myself (remove all the underbody sealer).. i was looking at somehow making a rotisserie, but i don't really have the space or skills, plus i can't be arsed stripping the whole subframe at once..

    what did you lift the car with?

    it certainly looks good! i have just about stripped my whole car too (with the exception of 1/2 the engine bay, and the underside), marine washed and metal ready'd it, next weekend it is time to start POR'ing the first coat.

    i think i am going to have to use a twisted wire brush to get my underbody coat off, i am pretty sure it is of the rubber type, so heat won't really help get it off (so i have heard)

    i certainly wish i had as much space as you have.. that would make things 1000x easier.. oh well.. bit by bit i will get it done.
    07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    all the photos seem okay to me.. maybe your internet connection is a little slow today? or is it just the site since the upgrade?
    Last edited by khughes; 01-15-2007 at 09:45 PM.
    07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
    1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212

    www.project240k.com - project details on all my cars

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    www.project240k.com khughes's Avatar
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    do you have any photos of the re-inforcements that were made on the body? i can sort of see that they have welded in bars along the sides of the car (below the door), but is there any structural strengthening in the dash etc?
    07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
    1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212

    www.project240k.com - project details on all my cars

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    I don't know what's going on with the photos but 80% of the time they don't show up as the little thumbnail they come up as a minus sign and a few of them are always missing. I can see that there is an attachment on the thread but sometimes I can't access it or see it.

    Sometimes I post one photo and I can't see it straght away. It can't be my internet speed as it's 1500kb/s and It's been happening the whole time. When I can see the photos as little thumbnails it's all working fine but then 5 min later. . . . . drives me crazy.

    For some reason I can't upload photos anymore they start to upload and then crash just as they should appear. It comes up with the windows diagonistic page which says all connections are fine, I'm not very computer savy unless it's an online first person shoot em up so I have no idea.


    Pm me your email address Kent and I'll send out some shots of the modifications made to make it a vert or you can come and check the car yourself if you can be bothered driving to Maroubra. I have posted some shots on "attacked by rust" third thread. the only strengething done to the dash area was at the bottom of the A pillar with some plates being added. It's had two chasssis rails welded in then attached by a plate to the front engine bay rails and more plates to the rear.

    The heat gun won't do anything to the underneath except waste time but will get the sheets of deadening from the inside off fine enough, heat an area up then let cool off a little then you can just peel it off in big sections.

    We did an EH pano bottom with wire brushes while on floor trolleys it was horrible, make sure you get an old set of skiing goggles as they won't fog up as your working (took a while to work this out) all other types are a waste of time as **** goes in your eyes and you can't see what's happening. We did a bit of stripping the other day and the brushes that go into a drill with the red brush head (not steel and from bunnings), they seemed to work quite well and last a fair while. You can't beat the wire brushes though, get a few different sizes and drop the IRS, lift the car up with an engine hoist then chock up with bits of wood or steel bars (don't let any photos of you under it get onto the internet lest you end up in funny photos in the back of Street Machine) keep the hoist attached. Do the rear of the car one day then lift up the front and do the front half of the car. Make sure you have someone to help you as it's going to be a massive job by hand. We used chain and a home made massive A frame for the front and rope as seen in the photo for the rear.

    The farm you can see is my friends up in Newcastle, your right you can't beat the space or good mates when restoring a car. One of the photos shows the rear of the car hoisted up, in the back ground you can see the sand blasting equipment.

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    Can't post photos of the A frame as now the "manage attachments" button does nothing when I click it.

    Best pm me your email address and I'll forward some nice shots to you.

    It's obviously something on my end.

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    Manage attachments opens a pop up window. I'm thinking that maybe your browser has a pop-up blocker on it, and maybe an ad-blocker to, and that might be why the images are not showing in the threads.

    Most of them have an allow pop-ups from site etc. you just have to add this website to the allowed list - if thats your problem.

    If you are using IE, try using Firefox.
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