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Thread: Cowl area Drain Tubes

  1. #1
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Default Cowl area Drain Tubes

    On my '78 280Z...

    I have this strange dripping inside my car on both sides under where the drain tube/elbow is for the air cowling. On the left it drips on my left foot while driving in the rain, and I assume the same on the right. So when there is a decent rain, the carpet is wet.

    I haven't had time to get the cover off and look in there to check the tubes and see if they're blocked, but I plan on it after the car goes into storage. (wish I had a mini video!) These tubes might be cracked, and/or blocked, so they fill up with water and/or drip into the car.

    Can somebody tell me if you can get at those drains from the outside of the car? I'll check them & clean as necessary. If they are cracked ( all the rubber parts are dry & cracked so far) Can you get replacements? Has anybody tried removing these tubes without removing the dash first?

    thx

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    240Z Series II-5 spd 4/71
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    Funny you bring this up...my 240Z is at the body shop now, and I suspect mine is also clogged, there's a tube that exits outside the body in front of the passenger side, thought it was related to my A/C but I think it connects to the main cowl drain outlet, I'm planning to "snake" it from there, access through the cowl may be difficult...maybe slightly different on the 280...need to check this over the weekend..

  3. #3
    Old Z Guy LanceM's Avatar
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    The real only acess to them is pulling the fender and going from the side where they exit the body. Under the cowl their point of exit is almost unreachable but from what I could feel there is a steel tube that enters from the cowl to the under dash area, there a rubber 90 is connected and exits the side under the fender. I suspect Tomo that you have one of 2 problems, either the rubber 90 is cracked as you suspect or you have rust through at one of the seams under the cowl area. I believe with a lot of twisting around on your back you can get to them without removing the dash but it wouldn't be fun.
    Lance

    73 240Z, tripple webbers, 5 speed, 4 wheel disk, Einbach springs
    98 BMW 540i/6

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    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    Before they put the fenders back on, take a look at these photos:

    http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...me=all&way=asc

    http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...me=all&way=asc

    That PVC tube ends just behind the rubber flap, and is cut in a diagonal with the face facing down and back so that the air flow under the car sucks the water out (like a venturi in a carb).

    Hope it helps.
    Enrique

  5. #5
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    I've sen your photos before, EZnrique. When I get to doing the bodywork (fenders off) I'll put in the drains. I need to clear the elbows or replace/fix them currently.

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    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    The elbows coming off the cowl feed into the extensions I added.

    If I had wanted, I could have taken the clear pvc all the way through the kick panel wall to the cowl drain. A little bit of heat and the clear pvc will shape itself real well. Just be careful not to bend it too fast or the walls will collapse.

    E

  7. #7
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    If you wanted to, you could totally eliminate those elbows by going straight down from the drain hole to the floor inside the car, or through the firewall, etc.
    Last edited by TomoHawk; 11-10-2005 at 06:10 PM.

  8. #8
    beandip beandip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EScanlon
    Before they put the fenders back on, take a look at these photos:

    http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...me=all&way=asc

    http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...me=all&way=asc

    That PVC tube ends just behind the rubber flap, and is cut in a diagonal with the face facing down and back so that the air flow under the car sucks the water out (like a venturi in a carb).

    Hope it helps.
    Enrique
    JUST FOR INFORMATION , THE WHITE FITTING PICTURED IS A SIMPLE 1'' 45 DEGREE ELBOW PVC PIPE FITTING AND IT FITS INSIDE THE FACTORY TUBEING EXITING THE BODY . THANKS ES I did this mod to my 240 also .
    I'd rather die while I am living than live while I am dieing. CZC 1887 IZCC 12602 Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

  9. #9
    HLS30165540
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    I did the PVC tube extension modification also. Real easy to do. Haven't tested it yet since my car hasn't gotten wet since I finished the restoration.
    The 1973 240Z 165540 Slightly modified. L28, 5sp, cam, headers, MSD 6AL, power windows, power door locks, leather seats, custom this and custom that.

  10. #10
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Ok, but what if the elbows are cracked & leaking? Can you get replacements?

  11. #11
    HLS30165540
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    I've never seen any replacements for sale, atleast not new. I have seen them on Ebay a couple of times. A parts car might be your only alternative. Visit your local junk yard.
    The 1973 240Z 165540 Slightly modified. L28, 5sp, cam, headers, MSD 6AL, power windows, power door locks, leather seats, custom this and custom that.

  12. #12
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Like I keep saying.... There aren't any Zs in Cleveland, OH, except for the 'imports.'

  13. #13
    Supporting Member =Enigma='s Avatar
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    Ummmm.........they're all imports.
    =Enigma=
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  14. #14
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    I was waiting for somebody to say that. Why not just ask what I mean by 'imports?'

    It means that since there aren't ANY in northern Ohio, you have to import, or bring them into, the area. Mine is from FL. Will or Vicky might know the place- on Fletcher Ave. just off I-275 N. USF is down the street.

  15. #15
    Registered User ZSaint's Avatar
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    I saw what Escalon did when he restored his Z. I figured if the car lasted 34 years with the stock drain, why do anything else with it. I sealed the inner fender with epoxy primer, painted it and then undercoated it. It will never be left out in the rain and seldom will be washed. (drycleaned) So, the only time water will be "draining" is if I get caught out in an Oregon thunderstorm and when I wash it a couple of times a year. I worked too hard on this car to drive it or let it sit out in the rain. I will drive my Durango or Rabbit in the wintertime. I never thought I would build a "trailer queen" but this is what I have decided. I know this is anal but I'm pleased that the car is finished and it is put away for the winter. I drove it 75 miles after working on it for 14 months. Ain't life a bitch?
    Z Saint, the vintage racer! I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.

  16. #16
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    I only drive about 1000 miles a year, and I prefer nice dry days, so mine only sees a few rainstorms in the summer. since it would be in the way in front of the house during the winter, I store it in the hangar. I don't even use the cover any more; it seems to trap the moisture in which causes rusting. Cover only used during hurricanes, and goes on prior to the rain.

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    Supporting Member =Enigma='s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TomoHawk
    I was waiting for somebody to say that. Why not just ask what I mean by 'imports?'
    Roger that. I figured there was another meaning in there somewhere. You say you store your Z in the hanger? Would that be your hanger or one at work? If so what do you fly?
    =Enigma=
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  18. #18
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    It's one of dad's hangars. He has a 172 and I think a couple 150s.

  19. #19
    Registered User ZSaint's Avatar
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    Congrats on having rich parents. There is no substitute for cubic inches or cubic dollars!
    Z Saint, the vintage racer! I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.

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    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Nobody rich here. Everybody works hard & manage money well. When I get a job, I'll to those too. And have a Z with no leaks

  21. #21
    beandip beandip's Avatar
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    Saint , The reason to do the mod is for the zdrivers that actually drive there car. If dust or dirt , heaven forbid , is washed into the cowl and drains down into the area below the drain . In all likely hood it will stay there and hold moisture for quite a while . This is the reason you see the lower part of the front fender rusted out + it is also the starting point of the rocker and if there is any rust through the water flows along under the door sill , rocker, and ends up in the dogleg . It is such a simple thing to take care of , and it will help prevent this for in the future. For a G Queen or a Show car this is not an issue.
    Last edited by beandip; 11-13-2005 at 09:43 PM.
    I'd rather die while I am living than live while I am dieing. CZC 1887 IZCC 12602 Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

  22. #22
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Exactly the reason I want to fix up what's going on in there. I want to see if I can get those two bolts at the bottom of the fender out over the winter, and see what it looks like in there. Since mine is a FL car, I don't expect much, but dirt, but couldn't hurt to look and loosen up those two bolts. Then put them back in with some aniti-sieze.

  23. #23
    Registered User ZSaint's Avatar
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    My '71 came from CA. There was only surface rust behind the fenders. I understand your maintenance. I probably should have done something similar. Looks like a good idea!
    Z Saint, the vintage racer! I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.

  24. #24
    240Z Series II-5 spd 4/71
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    Quote Originally Posted by EScanlon
    Before they put the fenders back on, take a look at these photos:

    http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...me=all&way=asc

    http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...me=all&way=asc

    That PVC tube ends just behind the rubber flap, and is cut in a diagonal with the face facing down and back so that the air flow under the car sucks the water out (like a venturi in a carb).

    Hope it helps.
    Enrique
    Augggh...I'm convinced, I gotta do this fix or something similar...I was at the body shop this past weekend looking at my 240's body...I noticed a dried waterline inside the cowl area and checked that at least the rhs drain hole is clogged, there's evidence of a standing pool of water in there for sometime... Rust is showing in spots...

    Enrique...from your pics I see that you extended the hose from the stock location...did it originally just drain into the area behind the small rubber mudflap? I can't locate that part # in the parts CD (63835-E4100 maybe?)...what did you use to replace the original sealing strips? (63815-E4100 "sealing mud guard")...I'll also search on "fender replacement" threads for more info...as always thanks for your input...


  25. #25
    long time owner a7dz's Avatar
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    It's located under cowl top on page 107-1 item 7 Part number 66430-N4400

  26. #26
    240Z Series II-5 spd 4/71
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    Quote Originally Posted by a7dz
    It's located under cowl top on page 107-1 item 7 Part number 66430-N4400
    Yup those are the drain elbows from the cowl area...I'll have to look at those too, I'm thinking their still solid because I haven't had wet floors in that area over the years...I was speaking of the little rubber flap that's at the bottom of the mudguard, at the rear of the front wheelwells......thanks for the input!


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