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Thread: engine bay refresh

  1. #1
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Default engine bay refresh

    I have decided to on the first bit of 'body work' I have ever tried (not counting refinishing my air cleaner). I am going to try to paint the engine bay fenders of my Z. They have long been scratch up from the dealer installed A/C hoses and canisters, etc. Plus it will give me a chance to really clean up the battery tray area.

    So far, I have removed everything from the passenger wheel well area. I mean everything but the VIN tag, I am going to leave that there and carefully tape over it.

    I have wet sanded the bejebus out of most of the area and I am working my way down to the frame rail. I am debating if I am going to remove the fuel lines or use a long brush to clean around them. Not sure. I have tested a small area of the touch up paint I ordered from http://www.automotivetouchup.com/ and it appears to be the real deal. I have an extra front valance that I am testing everything out on as well so I can see it in the sunlight. I think the color is pretty darn close to my 15 year old respray. Close enough for an engine bay anyway.

    So my first newbie question. I have half a dozen or so holes drilled in my fender for old A/C plumbing grommets, and places where the voltage regular had to be moved due to the compressor. What is the best way to fill in screw holes.

    Options that come to mind are:

    Small Welds
    Brazing
    Body filler
    JB weld (sandable if they make it)

    If I come across as a complete beginner at painting things I am. I know enough that prep is everything. Sand, clean, degrease, clean, use tack cloth, clean. Clean clean clean. If I do that, then my chances are better for a good result. So for a while, I will spend my time cleaning and sanding.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  2. #2
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    Your best bet for a permanent solution, would be to bring it to a shop, so they can MIG weld the holes. Then you can finesse the welded holes with primer and spot filler before painting. If you have a friend or someone other than a pro weld up the holes, make certain they remove the neg. cable from the battery before any welding is done.

  3. #3
    Registered User steve91tt's Avatar
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    I am taking on a similar project soon. How much paint do you think you will need to do the entire engine bay?
    Steve

    1973 240Z (daily driver)
    1971 240Z (track car)

  4. #4
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    I have no idea!! I just bought one can of sandable primer, one can of basecoat, and one can of clear...

    I am taking pictures as I go, I will post them when I have made more progress.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  5. #5
    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    May I recommend pulling the number tag also? The engine compartment tag on my '71 is attached with small Phillips head screws, not rivits. You should be able to remove and replace it tracelessly, and that will give a much nicer job.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    ZCCIV Webmaster motorman7's Avatar
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    AAhhh, I love an engine bay refresh. One of my favorite things.

    I did my yellow Z (back when it was silver) with two cans of silver paint. I used them both completely. Everything was covered but it wouldn't have hurt to have a third can.

    Zedyone, I would take off the VIN plate, it's only four screws. Just don't lose it.

    Sounds like the engine is not out. That makes it a little tough I think. Never tried it that way.

    Escalon mentioned using a 100W soldering iron for small holes. That sounds like a good option and one that can be done at home by those without a welder.

    I like scotch brite for cleaning the brake and fuel lines. Don't use steel wool, it leaves small hairs. Just make sure you use a high temp clear coat over them after they are clean.

    It's nice to have those fuel and brake clips zinc'd, but if you can't do that- there is zinc simulated paint, or wire wheel clean and use the high temp clear coat again. Looks better than the oxidized gray brown.

    Take your time and have fun.

    Rich

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

  7. #7
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    will do, pics to follow. I thought it was rivets. I will double check. Yeah, the engine is not out. I have a couple of projects planned in the next two months that I want the engine in for.
    Last edited by Zedyone_kenobi; 08-24-2010 at 09:40 AM.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  8. #8
    Brianz1973 BrianL1987's Avatar
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    FYI: tinfoil works great for wrapping parts that you don't want over-spray on

  9. #9
    Registered User mgmoreau's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianL1987 View Post
    FYI: tinfoil works great for wrapping parts that you don't want over-spray on
    Great idea Brian, I had never thought of that. It beats peeling tape off of things.

  10. #10
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    copy that, saw other threads with tin foil used. Very good idea.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  11. #11
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Okay progress has been slow,but today I took off the VIN plate and started polishing up the screws to put back in. I also did more sanding followed by my first coat of sandable primer. I will put this on in layers and work out all the scratches, nicks, I can. After I get it just right, I am going to hit it with several layers of base coat, and then some clear.

    Pics to follow.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  12. #12
    Registered User rd.stick's Avatar
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    good luck with the refresh I just finished my eng bay now for the rest of the car

  13. #13
    Registered User tlorber's Avatar
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    Looking forward to the pics. I've been cleaning portions of mine as I have time. Oven cleaner works really well to remove the grime and get the paint back. Obviously it won't fix scratches though.

  14. #14
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Okay, I downloaded some pics as I have been working on them. As you know I tried my hand at some primitive body work. And I am both pleased and displeased with the results. First, my before pictures...


    This is the completely before picture before my optima died and I decided to replace my battery hold down to OEM and get new battery ignition wiring, which started this whole thing!



    First step is of course to remove all the extra nonsense that was in the way. I never did remove that strut bar, it just never seemed to be in the way to be honest. You can see the mismatched colors and spots and half a dozen extra holes where the AC stuff use to be.


    Now you can see my second coat of primer. I still had not filled in the holes at this point. All I keep doing is sanding, sanding, sanding. More and more, I think that this whole job should be done with the engine out of the car. I am trying my hand at this on the passenger fender, first, but I think I would like to do it all again, with the engine out. Add that to my do-to list right.

    Next steps are to fill in the holes. I decided to go with a tube application. Granted it is not the best, but it is sandable and comes recommended from a buddy of mine. It is called plastic metal. Made by Bondo. I have mixed feelings about using it, but I will give it a try and see where it goes.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  15. #15
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Right, I took a stab at filling the holes, and shooting it with a coat of 901 silver. Well as you can see the results are not exactly Pebble Beach..



    So what am I to do, but sand it down and try again. This time I got more aggressive with my sandpaper. I started at 200, then 600, then 1500. I am getting happier as this goes on. What a long learning curve..



    The surfaces are much smoother, and now I think I am ready for clear. I could sand and re-prime/re-paint forever, but what I learned is that this job is best done with the engine out.

    Next shots will be with a coat of clear, and then with the hardware installed!
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  16. #16
    ZCCIV Webmaster motorman7's Avatar
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    I would remove the bar that is attached to the two front shock towers, just 3 nuts per side. Clean up the nuts that hold it down. Re-install after your done painting.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

  17. #17
    Registered User steve91tt's Avatar
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    Are you happy with the paint color match? I'm pulling my engine next month to do a similar 901 engine bay respray.
    Steve

    1973 240Z (daily driver)
    1971 240Z (track car)

  18. #18
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    So the complete A/C unit is gone? Looks cleaner without it, for sure.

    I love that silver, looks clean.
    Dave
    Rate my Z at Car Domain.com
    My 70' 240Z, Daily Driver

    My Parking Light and Headlight Upgrade Harness's at MotorSport Auto
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  19. #19
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    yup, the whole thing. It started to blow warmer air. So I was just looking for a reason to yank it and clean it all up.

    The flash makes the paint look brighter than it actually is. The match I think is pretty good. Well, good enough for an engine bay. I sprayed an extra valance panel and compared it to the body. I think it is very close, but not perfect. Lets call it 95% there. No surprise really. My exterior paint is 15 years old, and the engine bay is probably original.

    I am going to take off the strut bar and clean up that post. I will also look into getting some of those nuts plated. Good advice.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  20. #20
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    UPDATE:

    I hit my wheel well with two liberal coats of clear last night. This morning I was pleasantly surprised that the color appears a shade or two darker and looks much deeper. The silver dried darker than pictured above overnight. The color is DARN close to my exterior color. So much in fact, I would challenge anybody to tell me it was not sprayed 15 years ago with the rest of the car.

    The directions on the can say I can wet sand with 1500 or 2000 grit, but it looks so good now, I may skip that step. I will take more pictures when I get everything bolted back on the car.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  21. #21
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Well for better or for worse, this is my first attempt at a refinish job. I am very happy with the results..

    Before:


    After:
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  22. #22
    Registered User d240zx2's Avatar
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    You can begin thinking about changing your signature block.
    First & Third owner of HLS30-00721
    B. 01/70 D. 03/12

    New owner of HLS30-15653
    B. 12/70 D.

    Frank in Houston, Texas

  23. #23
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    hows that Frank?
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  24. #24
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zedyone_kenobi View Post
    hows that Frank?
    Maybe to a solid 91% now? Maybe 92%?
    Rate my Z at Car Domain.com
    My 70' 240Z, Daily Driver

    My Parking Light and Headlight Upgrade Harness's at MotorSport Auto
    HLH - PLH - SCP - ZXP's at MSA *They accept PayPal!!*
    Headlight Upgrade Harness info here at ClassicZCar Club
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  25. #25
    Registered User tlorber's Avatar
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    Wow, even the battery looks newer!

  26. #26
    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zs-ondabrain View Post
    Maybe to a solid 91% now? Maybe 92%?
    after I get your rear diff mount, I may move it to 91.....maybe. Still so much to do.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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