Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Second Hatch Strut?

  1. #1
    Registered User Jetaway's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-16944
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Manteca, CA
    Age
    61
    Posts
    382

    Default Second Hatch Strut?

    The recent thread about a torn away hatch hinge piece got me thinking. The same thing happened to my 1972. Not many data points, but from the thread I got the impression that the driver's side is more likely to fail. I suspect that a driver's side fail may cause the passenger side to fail quickly as well because it probably is creating unusual stresses on the other hinge, and thus accounting for the dual weld reports.

    The only difference between the sides that I can determine is that the single hatch strut is on the driver's side. Wouldn't seem that such a relatively small pressure could cause a break, but metal does fatigue and given enough time and flexing, any metal will eventually break apart.

    I've neither done much with metal nor welded a thing in my life, but it wouldn't seem to be a big project to add a second strut to the hatch. Weld a piece of metal shaped to hold one end of the strut to the body and drill a couple of holes in the hatch to receive the struct plate seems to be all that is needed. Is there some complication that I'm overlooking in my ignorance of metal and welding?

    A second strut would also do wonders for the lifespan of the struct cartridge, I would think.

    Chris

  2. #2
    Registered User 5150 will's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-22460
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Riverbank, Ca
    Posts
    167

    Default

    I'm sure it wouldn't be too difficult, but you'd need to get two struts that were made to be used in a two strut system (like the later s30). Or, you may be able to get the strut setup from a later car and have all the necessary brackets and struts. Just some random thoughts...
    '71 240z 907 Green/Butterscotch Interior 81,000+ original miles
    HLS30-31061 5/71

  3. #3
    240Z Elec. Upgrade guy Zs-ondabrain's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-4921
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Marysville, WA. U.S.A.
    Age
    49
    Posts
    4,004

    Default

    See? Now that's too funny...

    Went to the Grocery store today, come out with a few bags, pop the hatch and oad the groceries, shut the hatch like normal and here a loud "SNAP" sound... WTH was that? so I pop the hatch and the bracket is just floating between the body and the plastic panel.

    So now I gotta reweld the damn thing back on. But not before I have to tear it apart to do it. So I guess you could say "I feel for ya"

    Dave
    Rate my Z at Car Domain.com
    My 70' 240Z, Daily Driver

    My Parking Light and Headlight Upgrade Harness's at MotorSport Auto
    HLH - PLH - SCP - ZXP's at MSA *They accept PayPal!!*
    Headlight Upgrade Harness info here at ClassicZCar Club
    HLH info at CZCC Do a search for info on the other upgrades I offer.

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-18227
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    169

    Default

    Mine came apart a few months ago. My concern is trying to weld it back on. The car has recently been painted and I'm afraid that spot welding the hatch mounting bracket will mess up the paint. Mine came apart at the body mount by the rear wheel.
    Do you guys think spot welding it back would be ok to do without hurting the paint on the car body?

  5. #5
    Registered User ZCurves's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7312
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Spring, Texas USA
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,052

    Default

    If any of you earlier model guys want to go to the two strut setup, I have the inner mounts on my old parts car - First come first serve. If you live in Houston, come a get em. If you live else where, just pay postage. PM me to connect the dots.
    Andrew (ZCurves)
    1978 Coupe - HLS30-440105
    Spring, Texas USA

    pro deo et patria
    My Albumz

  6. #6
    Registered User Bonzi Lon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-11300
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kingman, Kansas
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,155

    Default

    manny1973, yours is now the 6th 73 that has had the bracket welds fail. From my own records over 5 years. The spot welds appear to be small / weak at all points. Mine failed in 79, rewelded during refurbishment in 06.

    The only paint damage will be on the rain gutter under the weatherstrip. The inner welds are on a peice of metal about 1/2 inch from outer body. Mine never got warm there, wet rag for caution, but the gutter area was toast. Dis-connect battery before welding.

    2 struts? -- Been there, done that. -- Didn't work. -- The way I did it.

    I removed another bracket from a 71, it was welded in better than the 73 by far, reversed it on the passenger side, with the pivot same distance, which makes them off-set, then the plastic won't fit without a trim. Drilled, made a bracket for the hatch attachment.

    At the time, I didn't know the 280Z strut was a lower pressure. I installed both 240Z struts. Fail! Very hard to close and about takes your nose off when opening. The bracket must of been off a little bit as it made the passenger side lift 1/4". Said bracket was removed and is now unreconizable.

    So, back to original design, welded solid and always close the hatch with my hand right above the strut attachment.

    Bonzi Lon
    1973 HLS30-168500
    1968 SPL311-18100
    1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
    CZCC#11300

    Ones and Zeros

    "We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla

  7. #7
    Registered User tlorber's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-20299
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Age
    55
    Posts
    1,190

    Default

    Bonzi, I'll put my '73 on the list as the 7th car. My strut bracket was held on with 2 screws. I'll have to figure out whether I'll weld it or just bolt it back on.

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-18227
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    169

    Default

    Bonzi, Thanks for the info. I thought I might drill a couple of small holes and bolt it on instead of welding but now I'm not sure, might have to get it rewelded. I don't have the equipment to do my self so would have to find someone.

    What do you guys think about just bolting it on.

  9. #9
    Registered User tlorber's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-20299
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Age
    55
    Posts
    1,190

    Default

    The cheapass screws that were holding mine on seemed to work ok.

  10. #10
    Registered User Jetaway's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-16944
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Manteca, CA
    Age
    61
    Posts
    382

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzi Lon View Post
    manny1973, yours is now the 6th 73 that has had the bracket welds fail. From my own records over 5 years. The spot welds appear to be small / weak at all points. Mine failed in 79, rewelded during refurbishment in 06.

    The only paint damage will be on the rain gutter under the weatherstrip. The inner welds are on a peice of metal about 1/2 inch from outer body. Mine never got warm there, wet rag for caution, but the gutter area was toast. Dis-connect battery before welding.

    2 struts? -- Been there, done that. -- Didn't work. -- The way I did it.

    I removed another bracket from a 71, it was welded in better than the 73 by far, reversed it on the passenger side, with the pivot same distance, which makes them off-set, then the plastic won't fit without a trim. Drilled, made a bracket for the hatch attachment.

    At the time, I didn't know the 280Z strut was a lower pressure. I installed both 240Z struts. Fail! Very hard to close and about takes your nose off when opening. The bracket must of been off a little bit as it made the passenger side lift 1/4". Said bracket was removed and is now unreconizable.

    So, back to original design, welded solid and always close the hatch with my hand right above the strut attachment.

    Bonzi Lon
    Just the kind of complication I was hoping for. Well, not hoping, but am glad to find out about. Makes sense, a single strut would need to have a much higher pressure to lift the lid than dual struts. Put two high pressure struts together and you could launch small children from the back. (Not recommended by the NHTSA.)

    Okay, this is possibly the stupidest idea ever posted on this forum, but what about using two worn-out single struts? I've got a pair that were removed fairly quickly after failing, so they shouldn't have lost a great deal of pressure, just enough to not counter-balance the weight of the lid.

    Or, possibly a somewhat saner idea. Use a pair of 280Z struts. I'm assuming that the body side mounts for the struts differ between the 240Z and 280Z, but it might be worth the effort to remove the old strut mount and weld in a new pair positioned for the 280Z struts.


    Chris

  11. #11
    Registered User Bonzi Lon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-11300
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kingman, Kansas
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,155

    Default

    Once you get the plastic covers off and look in there you will be able to make a decision. I have not seen (paid attention to) the 280 strut bracket to see if they changed altogether or a mirror image was made for the right side. Maybe someone has a pic? I found out placement of the bracket is critical.

    A buddy of mine had a portable mig, took him about 10 minutes, cost me a 12 pac.

    Bonzi Lon
    1973 HLS30-168500
    1968 SPL311-18100
    1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
    CZCC#11300

    Ones and Zeros

    "We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla

  12. #12
    Registered User tlorber's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-20299
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Age
    55
    Posts
    1,190

    Default

    Bonzai,

    When your friend welded, do you know where he put the welds, and how he accessed them? I welded my hinges this morning and was looking inside the car. I feel like I will be frying everything only to get some marginal tack welds on there.

  13. #13
    Registered User Bonzi Lon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-11300
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Kingman, Kansas
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,155

    Default

    IIRC there are 4 holes on the bracket for the welds to fill. Look for the stain of the previous welds for proper placement. He clamped and welded spots in all 4 holes. Short bursts so not to burn through. very solid now. It is not the easiest place to weld, thankfully he was a small and bendable.

    Bonzi Lon
    1973 HLS30-168500
    1968 SPL311-18100
    1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
    CZCC#11300

    Ones and Zeros

    "We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla

  14. #14
    Registered User IdahoKidd's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-17702
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Moscow Idaho
    Age
    60
    Posts
    751

    Default

    The single strut bracket on my 72 (Otto) was broken when I got the car. The spot welds had come loose. It was a major PITA to get it welded back into place. I drilled out the old welds from the bracket and then spot welded the two on top side. The two on the underside were a major pain, mostly because I was laying upside down in the back of the car trying to get my hood under the thing so I could see to weld. I did manage to get it welded and ground it down so the gasket fit (and painted it so it wouldn't rust). The bigger problem was that the old gasket had been torn when the thing broke free in the first place. After several repair attempts, I bought on from Black Dragon and replaced it. Works like a champ now.

    72 240Z HLS30 49052 110 Persimmons/white stick
    72 240Z HLS30 70087 110 Persimmons/white auto 43K
    77 280Z HLS30 400336
    77 280Z Turbo HLS30 369869
    57 Volvo 444K
    57 IHS120
    85 500 SEC

  15. #15
    Registered User Jetaway's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-16944
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Manteca, CA
    Age
    61
    Posts
    382

    Default

    Thanks for the input, all. Quite a bit more complicated than I had contemplated. For now, I'll stick with the single strut setup and resign myself to frequent replacement. If and when I go ahead with a two strut solution, at least now I know what to expect going in.

    Chris

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 71 240z hatch strut mount
    By darr3239 in forum Interior (S30)
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 03-03-2014, 09:04 AM
  2. 1971 Hatch Strut
    By rtaylor in forum Interior (S30)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-27-2007, 11:37 AM
  3. '71 rear hatch strut
    By astrohog in forum Interior (S30)
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 09-14-2006, 09:49 PM
  4. '71 Hatch Strut
    By texasz in forum Interior (S30)
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 06-16-2003, 09:30 AM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •