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Thread: Fuel tank removal

  1. #1
    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Default Fuel tank removal

    I've read section of FSM about removal BUT i decieded to ask from the pros too. My current tank is ok, but PO had painted it over with the same colour as the car, and it looks ugly.

    Is this a tricky task? Any hints?
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

  2. #2
    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    It's not complicated. It's just time consuming. I think I recall the order correctly. Make sure you drain the tank well. Remove the wires for the sender. (You may want to get a new O-ring & locking tab for the sender in case you need them.) Support the tank. (I prefer to use a floor jack.) Take off the straps and lower the tank. Detatch all of the vent hoses, the filler hose & fuel lines. Remove the tank.
    73 240Z
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    After them straps are undone and hoses off it pretty much falls out, but needs to pivot forward a bit due to the rear skirt. If alone put a smaller sheet of plywood or something on the jack as to not dent the tank and to give it more leverage. If you have someone around I find it best to just lay down under it and rest it on your chest as it comes down and other person there can undo any hoses or hand you tools as needed. But thats just me, I do transmissions like that too cause I get tired of fumbling with another jack. Careful on the ring to undo the sender unit if you plan on taking it out inspecting it or the inside of the tank, the tabs will break off fairly easily if you start whacking at it. People say not to use a metal screwdriver due to potential sparks, not really sure if tank explosion is even a possibility, but I suppose that word of advice came from somewhere! I just use a piece of wood or scrap brass, something like that. Also, if you are removing the unit, keep it clean as you do it, any dirt particles around that ring as you turn it will surely fall into the tank as you remove it, a small hand broom or something like that is always nice to keep brushing out the dirt so it does not enter the tank.
    1971 240z, L28 with SUs.

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    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. Is that o-ring some standard size or do i need to order it from somewhere?
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    I've seen it on MSA & eBay. Maybe even Nissan still carries it.
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

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    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    Here is for a 280z. Not exactly the same but general idea http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/f...tank/index.htm

    Some nice photos of the early240z emission lines to the tanks and drawings here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...uel-vent-hoses
    Last edited by Blue; 01-25-2012 at 05:39 AM.
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    Supporting Member Zedyone_kenobi's Avatar
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    Here is my experience with the removal... maybe a tidbit of info there.

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...r+tank+removal

    I did not document as much of it as I wanted to, but some great advice in the thread none the less.
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

  8. #8
    Registered User Jeff G 78's Avatar
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    Dammit, I typed out a nice, long response and my computer decided to reboot.

    Dropping the tank isn't terribly difficult, but be warned that the "While I'm At It" syndrome will take over. The tank drop will be easy if the strap threads and nuts are not rusty. It they are, soak them for several days before you begin. The biggest thing you will find is old, dry vent hoses which, while you're in there, should be replaced. This requires the interior trim panels to be removed and some fabrication work since the large vent hose in the back of the tank is NLA. It has a 180 bend molded in, so bulk hose cannot be used without additional hardware. You can find a how-to online to make a copper fitting to replace the 180 in the hose. This is easy, but I would recommend incorporating beads on the ends of the copper to keep the hoses in place. I didn't do this and had the hose pop off. I had to drain and drop the tank at the race track which cost me a lot of time and aggravation. When you replace the hoses, be sure to use fuel-rated vent hose and not heater hose. I had to special order the 5/8" fuel hose as it's not very common.

    Chances are very good that all of your hoses are way overdue for replacement anyways, so use the opportunity to do it right. Be sure to seal the hoses where they go through the floor. You are probably getting exhaust fumes sucked in through the old grommets.
    Jeff
    Northville, Michigan
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    The fuel sender seal is available at any Nissan dealer, the part is still used in modern cars. It costs about $4.50. A parts guy will be able to cross-reference it for you.

    I'll +1 everything said so far. It's not difficult, just time consuming. I ended up replacing the fuel filler neck, both sections of flexible tube going to and from the tank to the main fuel supply and return lines, all the grommets and all the vapor system hoses. A couple of the hoses were parts-store approximations, so I also used a couple of those parts-store bendable metal hose supports to keep them from kinking. As a final couple of steps, I sanded/painted the tank straps and put gaskets material on them as a new backing, and I repainted the fuel tank. In my case, painting the tank was necessary as it was a leaking fuel level sender seal that started the entire process, and the leaking 4.5 gallons of gasoline ate much of the tank paint as it escaped.

    I didn't use a service manual, it's a very simple system if you're savvy with tools and can observe how the pieces all fit together as you disassemble them. I recruited a friend to help with the new filler neck, that rubber tube and its related ring clamp at the base of the tank are worlds easier with a second pair of hands.

    P.S. - for rusty tank strap nuts and/or rusty ring clamp screws, PB Blaster is your bestest friend.
    Last edited by BTF/PTM; 01-25-2012 at 11:18 AM.

  10. #10
    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Messing with sender unit seemed to cause some problems? How common is that? ( i hate doing electronic stuff!!) And does Nissan sell those sender units or are they NLA? Braided hoses i have, seem to be in ok condition, at least in the cabin side. I had some smell issues but they are caused by bad hatch w/s and leaking watercock.

    But i have to wait a little while before i start...its -20C out there and my garage has only small heater :P
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    The senders are available via eBay & MSA. However, they are essentially a potentiometer. Unless you took out the sender, there is little chance of breaking it, though they can wear from the float going up and down. What exactly did you mess with? Search around here. I know I've posted on how the fuel gauge circuit works. It's pretty simple.
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

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    Default Fuel Tank

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Fuel Tank.jpg 
Views:	1056 
Size:	116.0 KB 
ID:	50835

    I am in the process of restoring my fuel tank. I tried cleaning it but there was some debis in it after all the years the car has been on the road. So I removed it two weeks ago, boiled it, resealed, primed, undercoated, ordered a new sending unit and am waiting on the hoses to arrive so I can reinstall. Its also a good time to replace aging gromets and other aging rubber. I figure I only want to do this once. The overall process should take about a month due to waiting on parts to arrive.
    Rod
    1972 Datsun 240Z, HLS30-70797 05/72
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    Check out my progress at: http://sites.google.com/site/timbymdg141/

    "A carbureted man living in a fuel injected world"

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    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Earthcruiser View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Fuel Tank.jpg 
Views:	1056 
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ID:	50835

    I am in the process of restoring my fuel tank. I tried cleaning it but there was some debis in it after all the years the car has been on the road. So I removed it two weeks ago, boiled it, resealed, primed, undercoated, ordered a new sending unit and am waiting on the hoses to arrive so I can reinstall. Its also a good time to replace aging gromets and other aging rubber. I figure I only want to do this once. The overall process should take about a month due to waiting on parts to arrive.
    That looks nice, and I imagine you would never need to touch that tank again, good job. I wanted to add a tidbit of info about cleaning the sending unit or the entire tank if someone wants to do just a quick and cheap cleaning up of minor rust. Instead of using any high dollar treatments or chemicals, try a bottle or two of "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner, sold at Walmart, ect, for like 1.25 a bottle. Can soak the sending unit in it. If doing the tank, dump a couple bottles in and slush, let it sit, slush again, till clean then empty. Wash out then blow dry right away to get any remaining moisture out. Then some say use a fine mist of wd40, not really sure if getting too much in their would affect the fuel tho, always wondered if just slushing a little marvel mystery oil around would be better, then filling. Ive never actually done this on a Z tank, but have done it on a few other tanks for people who wanted fuel pumps changed out and their tanks had rust forming inside. Was rather amazed how well a couple bucks worth of toilet bowl cleaner cleaned out the rust.
    1971 240z, L28 with SUs.

  15. #15
    Jim Arnett jfa.series1's Avatar
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    Post #8 suggests the large dia. vent hose is NLA. I purchased three of the four hoses for my '71 car from Courtesy in Sept. 2010. I think the P/N for this hose is 17236-E4601 and Courtesy's site shows it available from the warehouse for $101 (list). The hose I did not purchase was a small dia with no special bends. The other two special bend P/N's are 17235-E4601 and 17239-E4601. I think they also fit the '72 cars. If you replace the hoses, don't overlook the rubber seals where they transition into the interior - available from Banzai and perhaps others.

    Jim

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    Registered User Jeff G 78's Avatar
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    You are likely right Jim. I was only going by what I read online about the large diameter hose and even if I did find out it was available, I wasn't about to spend $101 for a vent hose when I bought my whole race car for $350. I restoration project is a different story though and $101 might be a bargain for originality.
    Jeff
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    I was able to find the larger diameter fuel rated hoses from my local John Deere Dealership, or any Tractor / Truck Supply shops, $2.79 a foot.

    Bonzi Lon
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    ...........as always when working with gasoline be sure to use a well vented area - gas fumes linger on the ground and build up (to your light switch or your garage door opener) - this is a job for outdoors when you are draining that tank. Have fun but be careful in your garage!
    Life's a journey; enjoy the ride!

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    Well the tank is back in, I had it boiled and resealed, then I primed and undercoated the entire exterior of the tank. Then replaced all hoses, filter, groments, sending unit and gasket, blew out the metal lines with air compressor. Took a minute to presurize the lines, the Zeke came back to life and runs the best since I have had it.
    Rod
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    "A carbureted man living in a fuel injected world"

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    Nice job Rod! It's a big job, but it's worth it.
    Jeff
    Northville, Michigan
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    I'm redoing my tank now and considering shooting the exterior with Line-X. It should last forever and be "ding" resistent. Has anyone else done this?
    1977 280Z - Sold 10/1986
    1978 280Z - Current and forever

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    Registered User Jeff G 78's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fire604 View Post
    I'm redoing my tank now and considering shooting the exterior with Line-X. It should last forever and be "ding" resistent. Has anyone else done this?
    Sounds like a good idea to me. I used POR-15 on the outside and applied 3-4 coats. Won't help with dent resistance, but it is a very hard, strong coating.
    Jeff
    Northville, Michigan
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    POR'd version sanded down and painted with one coat. Very high mileage car had very good looking tank on the inside. Outside pant was flaking off.

    Lee - 2/72 240Z

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    Walmart greeter Mikes Z car's Avatar
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    That tank looks really good!

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    Wow, NICE!
    Andrew (ZCurves)
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    Registered User Jeff G 78's Avatar
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    Can we get pics of the inside too? The outside looks great. I found that I could get good pics by putting the camera lens in the filler neck and shining a light through the sender hole.
    Jeff
    Northville, Michigan
    IZCC #1285
    '78 280 10:1 CR, Arizona Z Car header, urethane bushings, Tokico springs, Illumina struts, Panasports w/Hankook R-S2 225/50R16 tires, Maxima 105 amp alternator
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