Electrionic ignition from a '76 or newer with a high out put coil would allow you to open up your plug gap. BUT.... I think it would be better to adjust the carbs.
- Jeff
My '72 with stock L24 and SU's chronically runs rich. I know that there are many factors that can contribute to this. But, can the plug gap be set to eliminate some of this rich running? High end of the range?
Electrionic ignition from a '76 or newer with a high out put coil would allow you to open up your plug gap. BUT.... I think it would be better to adjust the carbs.
- Jeff
FUEL INJECTED '72 L24
I had a similar problem, I replaced the coil with a performance coil, MSD. Solved the sooting of the plugs and burned the fuel more efficiently
I have just replaced my coil with a MSD Blaster2.
I noticed performance was okay but was not as good as expected. The car also stumbled down low.
When I removed the plugs, I noticed that it was sooting up so I increased the plug gap from .030 to .038. Performance is better. Any advice on optimum plug gap?
When installing the MSD Coil the instructions talked about running a 0.8ohm ballast resistor. Stock standard on the Zed (which I think i have) is around 0.3ohm.
Would this make much of a difference. Still running points in the dizzy.
Help muchly appreciated.
Biker![]()
Spending too much again!
With an Electrionic ignition the plug gap should be .044"
according to my electronic ignition book. I run mine at .044 without any stumble at all.
- Jeff
FUEL INJECTED '72 L24
i ran my gap in all my na cars at .44
.30 for the 240Z stock settings was to small to begin with as well concidering that the stock gap i believe (correct me if im wrong) was .35.
Stock Gap for the Zed according to the Haynes manual is 28-32thou but going by memory.
Anyone know the answer about the Ohms or I am I in for a trip to my loxcal sparkie??![]()
Spending too much again!
I'm not sure about the ohms but I'm under the impression that if you do not have the stock coil then you do not need the ballist resistor. One advantage to a performance coil is the lack of the ballist resistor - that way you are suppling the coil with 12v all the time - not just at startup. The ballist resistor reduces the voltage to the coil to 9v after the key is released from the crank position. When the coil is given 12v all the time it gives a hotter spark all the time - not just at startup.
I have '78 electronic ignition on my 240Z. I have a 'FireBall'
coil and no ballist resistor - no problems.
- Jeff
FUEL INJECTED '72 L24
So, if I've got a mechanical distributor (no points) and the Crane PS40, should I not be using the balast resistor on an L26? If not, what's the wiring bypass?
Thanks,
Chris
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