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Thread: My Z build

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    Default My Z build

    Going to use this as my build/resto thread. I just picked the car up last Thursday and am looking forward to working on it. It's a '73 Blue 240Z that is all original as far as I can tell so far. It isn't running yet, though I hope to be able to turn it over by the end of the week. I doubt I'll have it ready to run for another few weeks but I'm working on it. Right now, I'm following the steps in the "Waking the sleeping beast?" thread to hopefully get it to turn over with no further damage (if there is any). I pulled the plugs tonight and put some ATF in the cylinders. I did notice that the spark plugs are extremely fouled and are a very dark slightly shiny black. I'm thinking it is a combination of running a little rich and some oil leaking past the valves. I plan on trying to see if it turns over by hand Wednesday evening. Tomorrow, I plan on pulling the carbs out so i can get them cleaned up and ready for operation.
    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Beck View Post
    Prior To Start-up:
    1. As mentioned, I'd drain the gas tank and see what comes out. If it's full of rusty partials - drop the tank and have it boiled out (some radiator repair shops off that service). Plan on replacing the old rubber fuel lines as well as the vapor recovery lines that run into the passenger compartment. You will more than likely have to do this anyway - as the vapor recovery lines leak gasoline vapor into the passenger compartment - and it will give you headaches and drive you out of the car. Do it now and be done with it. It's not fun, takes some time - but you'll be glad you did it all at once....

    2. As mentioned, replace all the fuel lines in the engine compartment.

    3. No doubt you need to check the carb's for operation - the vacuum slides get stuck... pull them apart and clean them... The flat tops look odd - but they are pretty much the same as the earlier SU's.. as far a basic operation goes..

    4. Might as well replace the upper and lower radiator hoses - you'll have to do that anyway - do it now before you loose the fresh coolant you put in later.

    5. IN PROGRESS: Pull the spark plugs and poor a couple ounces of ATF in the cylinders... let it sit over night.. poor a little more in the next day... then - see if you can rotate the crank pulley by hand... if you have a large Strap Wrench it helps... of course you'll remove the old fan belt first - as you have already bought a new one... (when you bought the new hoses, oil, filter, coolant)... If you can't rock the crank back and forth by hand - put the car in low gear and push the car forward/backward (air the tires up and it's easier to hand push!). The idea here is to break the cylinder rings loose, and get some oil between them and cylinder walls. The ATF is very high detergent and very thin... Once you break the cylinders loose by rocking the car - poor a bit more ATF in the cylinders and see if you can now rock the engine back and forth by hand...

    6 - Now drain the old oil - replace with fresh oil and new filter...

    8. Install new NGK BP6ES spark plugs

    9. Install new starting battery... and make sure that the oil battery cables are in good shape and very clean at the terminals..

    10. Remove the valve cover - and poor some clean oil over the cam lobes and rocker arm pads..replace the valve cover - (just check to be sure all the rockers are on/in-place..)

    11. pull the wire from the coil - and crank the engine over rapidly - you should at least see the oil pressure gauge move... at least a little to indicate your getting oil pressure... replace the coil wire and crank it over - it will take a few seconds to get fuel though the new lines and into the carb.'s... USE THE CHOKE! (you almost always have to choke the old Z's to get them started when the engine is cold).
    http://ZHome.com
    I also noticed that there are two different types of plugs on the car. They are all NGK plugs, but plugs 1,2,5, and 6 needed a 13/16 size socket while plugs 3 and 4 needed a slightly smaller 5/8" socket. I'll get pictures of them tomorrow when I pull them off again, but I think they maybe two different heat ranges. Either way I think it was a bit rich and possibly burning a little oil.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Should also add all the questions i've had can be found here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...s-about-my-240
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Registered User Gary in NJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonu View Post
    I also noticed that there are two different types of plugs on the car. They are all NGK plugs, but plugs 1,2,5, and 6 needed a 13/16 size socket while plugs 3 and 4 needed a slightly smaller 5/8" socket. I'll get pictures of them tomorrow when I pull them off again, but I think they maybe two different heat ranges. Either way I think it was a bit rich and possibly burning a little oil.
    Makes me think a PO installed HeliCoils in two stripped spark plug holes. You just may be using the spare head.
    Gary
    Guardian of HLS30-91415
    Previous Owner of a 10/70 240Z ('83-'85)

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    Got the carbs pulled off the car today. I also looked at the plugs again, four of them are actually champion spark plugs and the smaller two are NGK. Here are a few pics from my cell phone, Camera battery was dead.
    Good pic of what the plugs looked like when I pulled them

    Rebuild kits preserved in Miracle whip jars


    Carbs and plugs off the car


    All my extra parts for the rear carb


    And finally the exploded diagram of the crabs, I'm posting this full size so that if anyone ever needs to refer to it they can.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Well, today I was planning on getting the engine turned over by hand, but wasn't able due to a slight clearance issue. But I managed to get the tabs off the rear window for the old louvres. I've decided the weather stripping on the rear hatch window is going to be replaced, the current one is about has hard as plastic and even more brittle. I also completely disassembled the rear carb and gave it a bunch of TLC and got just about all the crud and gummed up crap out of it. I also got everything back together as well. I thought I found 3 more new carb rebuild kits, but they are for a different carb. I'm going to check the other carbs I have and see if they are the ones these kits are for.But for now I'm pretty happy with my progress. I still want to get the engine turned over but at least I still managed to make some progress towards being up and running again.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Registered User Rainman's Avatar
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    Good work Jonu, your 240Z will be alive and kicking before you know it! I followed the same procedure on my early 260Z back in 2006 after the car sat for 11 years and it ran great for two years when I found a Rebello 3.1L stroker to put in it. So you need the rear hatch glass seal? I just bought one for my brother-in-laws '73 240Z last week, from Nissan. I go to them first as they still have a great number of parts for these cars. When I first started down this road, I bought quite a few parts from ebay but later learned that nearly everything on ebay was available from Nissan at a lower price with free shipping. I use my local Nissan dealership but others use Courtesy Nissan. Again, nice work and keep the updates coming!

    Tom


    Nissan Monterey Blue Early '74 260Z
    RLS30-037826
    Complete rotisserie refreshtoration in process

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    Good to know Nissan still has some parts for these cars. Thanks for the heads up Rainman!
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    got the second carb cleaned up and ready, now to get a chance to try turning over the engine, first by hand. Then I'm draining the fuel and replacing all the rubber lines. I had one break in 3 places when I removed the carbs.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Registered User Travel'n Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonu View Post
    Good to know Nissan still has some parts for these cars. Thanks for the heads up Rainman!
    Sometimes you can find a Nissan Part Number manual on ebay - i bought one several years ago -most of the parts managers at your local Nissan dealership will not be able to look up part numbers on our cars. Once the parts guys found out the car I was working on they gave me the "body shop" prices which was about a 15% discount off list. Enjoy your journey and keep us posted
    Life's a journey; enjoy the ride!

    Mitchell
    L28 - N42 Block w/Flat tops - N42 Rebello Head & Cam - Triple 40 PHH Mikuni's - Headers - Recaro Seats -
    R180 3.9 Diff - Close Ratio 5 Speed - Toyota Vented Brake Upgrade w/ Porterfield High Performance Pads & Shoes

    1972 Datsun 240z
    HLS30-75040


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    Finally got a chance to do some more work on the car, even if it was only about 15 minutes or so. All i did was pull the radiator back out and tried to turn it over by hand. I tried a 1 1/16" socket but it wouldn't fit either, so i the tried the strap wrench and was able to get it to turn over with that. I was able to turn it about 1/2 a turn before i couldn't get levarage to keep turning, but i could definitely hear the pistons moving around. Still sounds kind of dry, so I'll probably put some more ATF in there tomorrow and wednesday and see how it feels then. Feels great to know the engine isn't seized up completely!
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Also planning on buying a new battery once I'm closer to needing it. I want to go with a lightweight battery and have the Braille B129 battery in mind. I'm just not sure how much juice i need for starting. From what I read it seems that 650 is minimum and 750 is good. I don't plan on having a stereo. So that will lighten the load some, but I'm thinking of going to electric radiator fans and an electric fuel pump later on. I know those are more of alternator thing, but i just don't want to get a battery that is way underpowered. It has 813 Pulse cranking amps (5 sec burst), 240 Cranking amps, and a 12 Amp/hr electrical capacity.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Now that the radiator is out, look in the crank pully and see just what kind of bolt is in there.
    I use a 'deep well thin wall' 1 1/16 socket, it is an antique Proto or Plumb brand, that might be the difference.

    Bonzi Lon
    1973 HLS30-168500
    1968 SPL311-18100
    1969 HLS30-000110 SOLD Shipped to Dubai UAE
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    Ones and Zeros

    "We drive only blue cars." Dishwalla

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    I'll take a pic of the two sockets I have later today. I have a 27mm Deepwell and a 1 1/16" regular socket. The walls look about as thin as they can be; maybe I should take a caliper and measure the bolt head. Either way though it seems like they just aren't fitting thee hole in the pulley. If it makes a difference the pulley is a 3 belt version. But there wasn't a belt on the forward most groove when I got it.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Jim Arnett jfa.series1's Avatar
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    Here the link to the online parts manual. The folks at Courtesy Nissan Parts dept. are very resourceful at locating this stuff if it is available. You may be able to request shipping directly to your local dealer to reduce/avoid freight charges. You can also plug your p/n's directly into their search box (courtesyparts.com) to check availability. Anything you order directly from their site is generally discounted as deep as they will go.

    Hope this helps.

    Jim


    http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun...3/Default.aspx

    Jim Arnett
    HLS30-15320 12/1970, original owner
    L24-020208 (original)
    IZCC Original Owner Registry #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonu View Post
    If it makes a difference the pulley is a 3 belt version. But there wasn't a belt on the forward most groove when I got it.
    It might make a difference. The three pulley system is there to support the addition of an A/C compressor. When these Dealer Installed systems were introduced - the third pulley was added, but the original bolt was put back in place. The end result was that the original bolt was now too short to get as much purchase in the crank as it needed - and over time many of them came loose and backed out. That usually resulted in the damper pulley being damaged and/or the key way in the crank being damaged.

    The "solution" was to take the original bolt out - before it backed itself out - and replace it with a slightly longer one - that was also slightly larger in diameter. Thus the crank had to be re-threaded, the larger bolt in stalled, and torqued to higher loads. It was also recommended that a thread lock {aka Locktite} be used.

    If there is a larger bolt in there - you may have to buy a deep well, thin wall socket from one of the higher quality tool suppliers. They have thinner walls that are also stronger than most consumer brands.

    FWIW,
    Carl B.

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    Well, after getting back from emergency leave and a field exercise, I got a chance to get new fuel lines, a water outlet (the one on the car is rusted through), the gasket for the outlet housing and some gasket material so I can make a new gasket for the float bowl. I also got new belts to include the belt for the A/C which was missing when I bought it. The only reason I got belts was due to the fact that when I pulled one of the belts off it maintained the exact shape it had been in while on the car and felt hard as a rock. Hopefully, barring any unforeseen events, I hope to try starting the car in the next couple of weeks.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Got the new belts on today. All I have left to do is change all the fluids (including the fuel), new spark plugs, and a new battery. One question though, I noticed that I have a set of the flat top carbs and rebuild kits for them as well. I've already cleaned my round top carbs that were on the car, but I'm wondering if I should put the float tops on instead.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    For anything other than showing the car in "STOCK" class - I'd stick with the S.U.'s. There are good reasons most people took the Flat Tops off.

    FWIW,
    Carl B.

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    Been a while since an update, but I haven't done much due to field exercises and working night shift. I'm hoping to start getting everything bolted back together on Sunday though and should be ready to start it up. I figure I'll jump start it and see if the current battery can hold a charge. I plan on replacing it but will be waiting until I get it some new tires. I refuse to drive it until they are replaced, they are atleast 6 years old and have tread just falling off. Probably should put new brake fluid in it as well. Any suggestion for what spec fluid I should use? And thanks for the tip on the carbs Carl.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Forgot to ask this; the new water outlet housing I bought from Autozone was a perfect fit in every way but one. The coolant temp sensor that was in the old housing is way to small to fit the new housing. It literally slides right in and falls right out. I'm thinking of pulling the housing back off and taking it to autozone so I can get one that fits because according to their system there isn't a coolant temp sensor (atleast that's what I think it is.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Update: Going in to get new fluids to put in the car tomorrow. Figure I'll use 10W-30 oil, premixed coolant, and some Dexron 3 trans fluid. Now all I need to do is get some new tires and it'll be ready to go for a short drive to see what else needs to be addressed.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Got my new battery in the mail today along with a NOS water outlet housing. I'm hoping I'm able to get the car started on Saturday.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Good luck keep us posted buddy
    1971 240Z HLS30-38691
    93.9% done and getting better every day
    Now with 100% more DATSUN SPIRIT L28 Power
    1968 Datsun 2000 SRL311-03416

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    Today was a pretty good day. I was able to get the carbs reinstalled finally and re-ran the fuel lines again since i found that the original hardlines were still in place. That cut out quite a bit of rubber hose in the engine bay. So this is what's been accomplished so far: Carbs have been pulled apart, cleaned, and reinstalled, New rubber for the fuel lines, new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery (this battery looks like a midget compared to the old one). While I was fiddling with the fuel lines one of my friends loosened the drain plug on the fuel tank. That thing is dry as a bone. Once we got done with everything, I connected the battery to see if it would turn over. It just barely turned over, so we connected jumper cables from my truck to the car and it turned over easily. I think i could hear the fuel pump whirring as well. So i think I will be charging the battery before it gets installed for good. After that we just powered up the accessories so I could check and see what was working by just running the car off my trucks battery. I found that the headlights, turn signals, and reverse lights don't illuminate. Oddly enough though the hazard lights work perfectly. I also tried the radio and it worked just fine as well, I was able to tune in my favorite radio station without a problem. I still need to finish bolting the carburetors in place, but it was to dark to keep working on the car. I'm going to take a few pics tomorrow so i can get you guys to confirm that I have everything routed properly for the carbs since i reverted back to the stock fuel rail. I've also attached a picture of the new battery with a 1qt bottle of Powerade sitting becide it for scale:
    Attachment 54288
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Just got back from a 30 day field exercise and I'm looking forward to finishing up the final touches before it's first start in around 6 years. I'm going to make sure the battery has a nice full charge tomorrow as well as finishing up getting the carbs tightened down. I'll be taking a picture of that and posting it so I can get a confirmation that everything looks right. Finally, on Saturday the car will go up on jackstands so I can pull the wheels off and have my new tires I ordered mounted and balanced.

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    Today didn't see much progress. I decided I would try seeing if the cause of my lighting issues was a fuse or not. It took me a while to figure out where the fuse box was located, even with looking at the FSM while out at the car. I was really limited to only one solution today since I didn't have a voltmeter to check the wiring. So I replaced all the fuses with brand new ones. I figured it couldn't hurt since I had no idea how old the fuses were. I ended up finding one blown fuse and the others appeared ok, but they got replaced anyways. After doing this I still was at the same spot as before. I've been doing some research and most of my google searches have led me bac to posts here. Anyways, tomorrow I'm going to have a multimeter and will be checking other likely culprits. From what I've read it appears that a faulty Hazard switch can cause the symptoms I'm having as well as the turn signal switch. So if the multimeter points to either of them I will just pull both of them off and clean them up. If they check out good and power is going to the fuses, I'm not sure where to go after that except to pull out the dash and start following wires around the car. As for the headlights, I'm going to suspect it is either the switch or the bulb. I looked at the bulbs to see if a filament was broke or not, but they appear to be ok. Finally I was hoping somebody could help me I.D. my wheels. They appear to be factory wheels, but when I bought the car the seller also gave me 3 Hub caps. These wheels don't appear to use hubcaps but maybe I missed something or they where a factory option.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    Registered User mgood's Avatar
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    They look kind of like mine, Mine are Appliance and not factory. I purchased them when I bought the car in 76. The centers have an A on them for Appliance. Keep the centers they are very hard to find. I have after market centers because mine rusted very badly.
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    Michael 11/75 - 76-280 - HLS30-281,114
    Web site -Click Here and ORIGINAL OWNERS OF THE 280Z (1975-1976 -1977 - 1978 - ONLY) REGISTRATION[

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    Thanks for the help mgood. I have to agree with you, after doing some searching on google using your information, I do believe that is what they are. I'm thinking they are the Appliance Wide Mags. I just thought that the letter on the center cap was a D for Datsun. I would never have guessed it was an A. I had been thinking of having them painted or powdercoated, but after seeing how they look all cleaned and polished up I think I'm going to find a good shop around here that can clean them up and get them polished.
    I did manage to get new tires mounted today so I'm pretty happy about that. Tomorrow I'm going to start working on my lighting issue since replacing fuses didn't help. I borrowed a multimeter from a friend of mine and I'm hoping that helps me track down the problem pretty quickly. I would like to be able to get this thing started and through the safety inspection by the end of next week so I can get it registered the week after next. Anyways here are a couple pics I took with my cell phone earlier today. I'm also going to need to do something about the suspension as well. I did notice while I had the rear tires off that it appears to have a couple of plastic spacers in the spring on the both sides of the car. I'm not sure if they should be there or not, but i wouldn't think there should be anything in the spring that would cause it to bind up. I should have taken a picture but wasn't thinking at the time.
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    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

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    They are definitely Appliance wheels. They are called Wire Mags and were a pretty popular after market wheel for the Z back in the 70's. I have a set also and bought them new for my car a few years after I purchased the car new in 1974.

    About a year ago I needed new tires and so decided find a local company that could clean and polish my wheels. I posted a write up on the whole story which you can find here:

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread43224.html

    I am very happy with the result and that the wheels help to keep the car period correct. Here's a quick before and after picture so you can see the result of the process that I went through.

    Mike.

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    They definitely did an outstanding job on your wheels Mike. I really like how you had the area inbetween the mesh painted silver. In my opinion it gives the wheel a much nicer approach. I'm going to have to do some looking around and see if there is a place out here in El Paso that can do a similar job. If I was at Fort Hood still Austin wouldn't be a problem. But I would like to find somebody within driving range, so I guess the search is on to find a place that can refinish the wheels along with the center caps. None of them have much wrong with them and the center caps are what appear to be in the worst condition. So I guess once the car is running, this will be added to the top end of my list of things to do. Thanks again for the help identifying these wheels guys.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

  31. #31
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    Well, last few days have been slow. I've been dead tired after being in 100 degree heat all day at work, but today I got off early and started trying to figure out my lighting issues. The first thing I did was reinstall the T/S switch and combo switch. I then hooked it up the battery terminals to my truck for power. I then checked my combo switch and T/S switch for power. I found that I was getting full power to the combo switch and none for the T/S switch. After seeing that i decided I would check for power at the headlights. As I was pulling the headlights I noticed my side markers, and the rear combo lights were all on as they should be. The turn signal lights were on as well, but the still only work when the 4 ways are on. I ended up pulling out the plug for the headlights and checking for power at the connector. I found that on the driver side there was no voltage and on the passenger side it had .65 volts. I ran out of light about then so I packed everything up and picked up my newest item to help me for this problem. I found a high quality .tiff file for the wiring schematic on this site (through google) and had Kinkos print up a nice big 18"x24" Laminated printout so i can trace the wires with wet erase markers. I've traced out all the wires but I'm stuck trying to follow the wires through the combo/turn signal/hazard switch. I'm hoping i can figure this out soon. I'm thinking my headlight problem is a bad ground and the turn signal may be a bad switch since those lights are working.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

  32. #32
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    So today was supposed to be the big day that one of my friends and his Dad were going to come over and help me tune the carbs. Unfortunately that got pushed back. First thing I did today was go and buy a 5 gallon fuel can. While there I ended up buying new nuts and lock washers for the carbs as well as new hose clamps for the radiator hoses. When I got back I changed out all the hardware and decided to redo the gaskets for the floats. I figured I could do better than the original ones i made. Two hours later and I had two new gaskets that I was happy with. I then called my friend to let him know I was ready for them to look things over and try to start it up. While they were making sure the carbs were working propperly (they were a bit tight) I topped off the coolant and poured in the gas. Then we connected the battery to see what would happen. Then nothing happened, you could hear the electric pump whirring away but there was no fuel getting to the filter. After noticing and correcting a few minor things we went back and looked at the pump and found that there was no fuel line connecting the pump to the tank. Fortunately I had some fuel line on hand and we were able to take care of that. The next attempt was just as unlucky as the first tries. We decided that what had happened was that the fuel lines were clogged somewhere. So I went to get a little more gas so we could fill the float bowls and see if it would start that way. After filling the floats, we reconnected the battery and gave it a try, and it started up on the very first crank!!! It was idling and sounded to be in pretty good mechanical shape. Granted a lot of dust went flying at first since it had been sitting for so long nothing seemed wrong with it. Thats when we noticed that the transmission i thought was empty started spewing fluids. So we cut the engine off and I proceeded to clean the mess I made. I had forgotten to reconnect the oil cooler lines and while cleaning up the resulting mess I noticed it wouldn't have mattered if the were connected because both lines are dry rotted. One actually fell off when i bumped it while cleaning the mess. But I now know that the engine does run, there was no smoke out the tail pipe, no pinging, no metalic clicking, and when I checked the radiator to see if it needed more fluid, there was no sign of oil. While I'm a bit disappointed that we couldn't start it using the tank and that I missed fairly easy to notice things, I'm happy to know that my engine appears to be in good mechanical shape.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

  33. #33
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    Sounds like you are making some good progress - glad the engine sounds good. One issue I had with my 280z (which had sat for almost 14 years) was that the hi-beams didn't work when I got it. I took off the ignition trim and used some "contact & control cleaner/lubricant" from Radio Shack (which I use on old stereos and amps to clean up the static in the pots) and gave the turning signal tree a few good blasts and worked it around - voila! The hi-beams started working. Anyway, might not hurt to hit the moving parts/switches for your lights with some of that stuff.

  34. #34
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    So I'm a bit stumped with what to do about replacing the transmission oil cooler lines. I've checked Courtesy Nissan, MSA, as well as trying a google search with no success. Is this something I will need to assemble myself? I figure it shouldn't be to hard for me to do. I think the hardest part would be finding the proper threaded fitting. I'm also thinking that if I have to make these lines myself I might as well make them with some SS braided lines. Still trying to figure out what's wrong with the head lights and turn signals, I think I will be looking for a good piece of wire and try bypassing the circuit to see if the turn signals work then.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

  35. #35
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    Well, this is moving a bit slower than I expected but I'm steadily making progress and hopefully the pace will start picking up now. I ended up pulling the fuel tank out and took it to a radiator shop to have it cleaned out. They ended up stripping it to bare metal on the outside, cut it open and cleaned it out then welded it back together. It is now coated and they also repainted the outside black. I also just ordered a new fuel level sending unit w/ gasket and lock ring, headlights w/ gaskets, and a new hood release knob since the original one decided to break on me. All that should be here by Tuesday and I plan on having everything on the car by Thursday. Tomorrow I'm going to hit up the auto parts stores to find some hard lines that I can use to bend up new hardlines to replace the original fuel lines running from the tank to the engine bay.
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

  36. #36
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    Well, it's been a while since i posted any updates on my car so here is a quick rundown of what has been going on since the last post. I di end up getting new lines for the fuels system, although I never was able to get a chance to get them bent up. I bought 20' of both sizes since I wanted some extra to practice on. Then in December I towed it home while I was on block leave. While I was home I dropped it off at a shop to get it stripped to the frame, media blasted and reassembled. I want to do some performance mods, but my first priority was to make sure any and all rust that may have been on the car was taken care of. The guys at the shop were pretty impressed with the condition of the car and said it was probably the best looking 240 that they had a chance to work on. Since I left it there, it has been stripped down and been media blasted. It is now having the body work done (having a front air dam and BRE style spoiler added on) and should be ready for paint pretty soon. It is going to be painted the original blue metallic and assuming I can find the pieces, will be swapped over to a 4 speed manual. A lot of guys in my platoon give me crap for not going with a 5 speed, but I'm trying to keep it pretty close to period correct. Hopefully I can get some pictures soon. The internet here isn't to good so I'm going to have the pictures they have taken sent to me on CD. Then I can resize them and get them posted up. Can't wait to get home and see how she looks!!
    Current:2011 370Z 6mt with simple mods
    Starting my 240Z project

  37. #37
    Registered User Gary in NJ's Avatar
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    From day-one the S30 was available with a 5-speed, so with a 5-speed it would be period correct.

    I just wouldn't be North America period correct.
    Gary
    Guardian of HLS30-91415
    Previous Owner of a 10/70 240Z ('83-'85)

  38. #38
    Ultimate Restorations e-tek's Avatar
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    Looking forward to seeing it!
    E-tek Racing and Restorations

    Visit me at : www.E-tekRestorations.com

    or check my Blog: www.E-tekRestorations.blogspot.com

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