Results 1 to 46 of 46

Thread: Dash Lights

  1. #1
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1383
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    259

    Question Dash Lights

    I just purchase a 1970 240z that is in overall very good shape.
    I noticed that the dash light is very dim. when I put on the gas it gets a little brighter but no where it should be. Could this be the coil or voltage switch???

  2. #2
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1377
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Nanaimo BC Canada
    Age
    39
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Well I will start off by saying I am not a mechanic but I donít think the coil would have anything to do with it. The coil just puts out power to the Distributor.

    And for your sake I hope you donít have to put new bulbs in, I wanted blue dash lights on my 82' and now that was a pain. Had to take the whole dash off and wiggle around feeling for the wholes to put the bulbs in. Good luck
    Z for Life

  3. #3
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1383
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    259

    Default Dash lights

    I am kind of doubting it would be the bulbs because all of the guages are reacting that way. It seems its comming from the electrical sourc. Any thoughts??

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1320
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    alabama
    Posts
    2

    Default I kind of have the same problem.

    I have the same problem with my dash lights and head lights in my '71 240. If I am just idleing they are dim, higher the rpm's brighter the lights. I have been told it may be the alternator. I haven't had it checked yet though. Good luck with it, and let me know what you come up with please. I am going to try to get mine tested this week, I will let you know.
    71 Fairlady, So Sweet
    a.k.a. 1badbamafan

  5. #5
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1383
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    259

    Default

    Thanks for the reply. I sure would like to hear what you found.
    Mark

  6. #6
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1398
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    790

    Default

    The dim lights are"normal" for 240's. I've had 4 they all did it .The voltage regulator can be tweeked to solve the problem,but only by someone who understands auto electrics.Severe damage can occur if this is not done correctly!

  7. #7
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1383
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    259

    Default dash lights

    Daniel, do you think that if they are very dim to the point they are almost dark that it could need a new voltage switch or possibly somethink else.

    Mark

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1398
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    790

    Default

    Mark,As I say the dim is "normal'.Lets discuss a couple of things in hopes of a cure.The first is if your battery is staying charged,cranks strong you haven't got alt. or battery problems.The coil is what fires your spark plugs.It has nothing to do with lights.Thebulbsat are in your car are most likely 71 models as well.As the lamp burns the filament burns up.The black stuff you see at the ends of a flouresent tube is burnt filament.Even though the light burns the filament has grown weak and deposited the burnt filament to the inside of the glass envelope.In your case that is almost like putting sunglass lenses on you bulbs.I think new bulbs will make your dash problem less severe.Oh yeah I was told once that those were I think 6watt bulbs and you could replace them with8watt.So i was told.

  9. #9
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1398
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    790

    Default

    Mark,Also make sure your dimmer knob at the dash bottom under tach.is turned up fully.Sometimes the simple things will drive ya' nuts! Daniel

  10. #10
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1383
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    259

    Default dash lights

    I tried the dash light knob and it doesnt adjust the lighting at all.
    Is it possible I have a faulty dimmer switch??

  11. #11
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1398
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    790

    Default

    No more calls we have a winner!! Yeah Mark If that thing won't dim you don't know what position it was in when it broke.I would wire around it.Then you know you are getting full voltage.I have never had a use for that dimmer in any of my Z's.The other info. I gave can then be tried for maximum results.

  12. #12
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1383
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    259

    Default dash lights

    Thanks for the great advice. I will try to pull the switch tonight and see what it does. Talk to ya soon

  13. #13
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1377
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Nanaimo BC Canada
    Age
    39
    Posts
    18

    Default

    there is this thing you can get, people use them for large car sterios and it stores X amount of power in the tube. Its for the cars with lots of power going to there subs. So when they dont have one each time the bass hits the lights dim. This might help your problem. sorry I cant remember what there called but i am sure if you went to any pro audio shop they would know what i mean.
    Z for Life

  14. #14
    Datsaholic Mr Camouflage's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1278
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    48
    Posts
    3,460

    Default

    The Things you are refering to are capacitors, but they wouldn't help in this case as the voltage isn't getting to the globes in the first place because of the dimmer control.

    If I rememeber correctly they are big heavy chunky things with a contact and a coil resistor in insulative housing. The coil and the contact corrode (or get dirty) increasing the resistance, so your lights go dimmer.

    You can clean up the contacts with a bit of wet and dry, or if you never use it, short circuit it, taking it out of the circuit, so you get 12 volts going straight to your dash lights.

    Mr C

  15. #15
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1383
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    259

    Default dash lights

    I tried pulling the lumination switch last night but couldnt get to it.Feeling around it looks like one of the two wires has disconnected. Any idea how i can remove this switch. Do I need to pull the dash off?

  16. #16
    Datsaholic Mr Camouflage's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1278
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
    Age
    48
    Posts
    3,460

    Default

    No I dont think you need to go that far! It been ages since I owned a 240z and I cant really remember how it fixed to the dash.

    It's underneath, pointing towards the ground isn't it? It's probably held on by a nut around the center of the knob, either on the knob side of the dash or the other side. But I'm just guessing.

    Have a good look at it in daylight, crawl under the dash with a torch if you have to. Better still, use a small mirror so you can see behind the dash. It shouldn't be too difficult to see how it's held in there.

    Mr C.

  17. #17
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1229
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Sun City , Ca
    Age
    86
    Posts
    32

    Default

    The first thing I did to get at that pesky little rheostat is to remove the drivers seat and put a pillow down to lay on. Thre are two screws holding the rheostat in place that are accessible from behind the panel. You will disconnect the connector plug and withdraw the rheostat complete with the mounting bracket. It sounds easy but it is a real pain. Give the rheostat a good shot of electrical parts cleaner and hope that does the job. no promises, cliff
    celford52@mchsi.com

  18. #18
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1383
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    259

    Default

    Cliff thanks for the reply. I think I know whats wrong with the switch. When feeling around there is a wire that is disconnected.
    Looking at my repair manual it has two wires, one that controls the dimmer and the other that makes it brighter. I think if I can get back there I can just reconnect the wire. Problem is getting back there. How hard was it to remove the seat. Did you have to go under the chasis?

  19. #19
    Must be the torque curve kmack's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1264
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    San Antonio, Tx
    Age
    48
    Posts
    985

    Lightbulb Side note if dimmer switch fix doesn't work..

    If you find out you still have the dim lights at idle even after you fix your dimmer switch (or jump it), there is something else you might try.

    My wife had an '80 Fiat X1/9 which are notorious for having weak alternators. I had the same problems with dim lights at idle but it also carried over to everything else, including turn signals, wipers, headlights. A relatively quick fix was to run two (2) 8 or 10 gauge wires from the alternator to the starter (instead of the standard one 10 or 12 gauge wire). The other part of this was to install an additional ground wire, either off the transmission or engine to the body.

    The result was amazing! After the fix, you could drive with the lights on, defroster on, stopped at a light with the turn signal on, in the rain, and actually have the windsheild wipers work!
    "When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.
    Then find someone who's life gave them Vodka and have a party!"

    KMack
    '71 240Z (Series I) - SOLD
    San Antonio, Tx
    www.geocities.com/kenshobnob
    www.geocities.com/vintagericeracing

  20. #20
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1398
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    790

    Default

    Hi Mark,I haven't had time to look at my Z but I did look at the wiring diag.It shows only two wires connecting to the rheostat.If one is loose ,the dash lites should not work at all.There are just connectors that put the rheostat in the circuit.You should be able to just unplug the two wires from the rheostat and connect them together. This should not require removing the rheostat.Also I read where someone had written of the difficulty in replacing thdash bulbs.Its not hard.You just wiggle them back and forth.They are held in place by the "spring" tention of the bulb holder.The small gauges require the removal of the glove box liner.You just bend the liner to remove it.Its cardboard.Ihave a friend that made one that was easier to remove.I find that removing the clock gives better access to the other gauges.It is held in place by a "Y" type yoke.You'll see what I mean once in the dash.Remove one screw and remove the clock from the rear of the dash.It's easy!Be sure to disconnect the battery before starting this "funfest" Daniel

  21. #21
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1383
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    259

    Default

    thanks for the response. I'll give that a try. I was trying to remove the radio/heater center panel last night but could not get off. I removed all of the heater switches, the maplight and radio but there was something holding it in. Any ideas on how to put that panel off?

  22. #22
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1229
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Sun City , Ca
    Age
    86
    Posts
    32

    Default

    Mmagnus: The bolts to remove the seat are located at the four corners of the seat. The front ones are easy, the back ones are knuckle busters. I am talking about a 71 Z I don't know about the others. No need to go under the car. cliff
    celford52@mchsi.com

  23. #23
    Must be the torque curve kmack's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1264
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    San Antonio, Tx
    Age
    48
    Posts
    985

    Default radio/heater panel removal

    There are four screws that hold the panel to the dash. You need to remove the control knobs from the heater controls and the fan switch. The panel should pull out about an inch or two.

    The sliders for the heater controls is mounted to the back of the radio/heater panel by four screws. These have to be removed before the panel can be taken completely out of the car. Remove the glove box liner and then reach in behind the panel to get to the four screws (mine had phillips head screws). It's a little tight but not too unbearable. Removing the passenger seat helps. It's more fun trying to get the screws started when putting everything back together.

    The other option is the disconnect the cables from the heater controls. Not a good option if the dash is still in the car, IMO.
    "When life gives you lemons, make lemonade.
    Then find someone who's life gave them Vodka and have a party!"

    KMack
    '71 240Z (Series I) - SOLD
    San Antonio, Tx
    www.geocities.com/kenshobnob
    www.geocities.com/vintagericeracing

  24. #24
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1398
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    790

    Default

    mark,The heater panel is a real pain to remove.If you are going through with it you may try to find a 73 panel.It is lighted Daniel

  25. #25
    240 Al
    Guest

    Default

    Mmagnus there are 12 illumination lamps 2 for each guage 3 for
    tach and 3 for the speedo chances are most of them are out.
    they are approximately 1.3 watts and you don't want to go any bigger you will melt the lens they set in.you can get to the ones in the tach and speedo with out removing any thing,but you,ll have to pull the heater controls to get to the ones in the guages.
    it's not as bad as it sounds.The turn indicators and high beam
    are the same. when I got done the lights were plenty bright on the dimmer set 1/2 way.What I used were Wagner #BP53 They
    were physically the same size but .2 watt more. You may be able to get to some of them by removing the defogger metal strip on
    dash but I don't know for sure as I pulled the dash for other reasons 240 Al

  26. #26
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-1398
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Charlotte NC
    Posts
    790

    Default

    Hi Mark,I would think by now this dash thing was resolved.Anyway,Removing the defroster panel on the dash will get you nothing but grief,no access to anything you can reach around too.You can gain access by removing the heater panel,you can also remove your engine to change the oil filter.Trust me!Unless youLOVE to work on your car,gain access thru the glove box.Keep it simple. Daniel

  27. #27
    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1490
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,874

    Default Dash lights

    Working on the 240 dash lights can be like hitting yourself on the head with a hammer. While it's happening you hate it, it hurts and you wish it were over and done with, but once you're finished you feel so good.

    The dash bulbs are 3w and are notorious for being dim, you CAN order 4w bulbs which will not melt your green lenses inside the gauges. However, there are a few other things that you can do that will make the lights work better and actually provide brighter illumination.

    Changing the dash bulbs while IN the dash can be like putting your hand inside a tight fitting cookie jar and trying to pull it out full of cookies, i.e. extremely tight and extremely frustrating. If you have a "large" hand, i.e. more than 8" around at the base of your fingers, trust me you WILL have a hard time. Not saying it is impossible just that it will be difficult. I found it easier to force my hand up there, remove the speedo and tach and then replace the bulbs from the front when I did it on a friend's car the fun came when you try to put the washers and wing nuts back on the instruments. You CAN do it, but you have to be very very patient. The center gauges are best accessed from the glove box compartment, or from the heater control panel area, but that's a bear to remove also.

    The dimmer is held to the back of the dash with two phillips screws which attach the rheostat to the sheet metal inside the dash. To remove this, you have to get your screwdriver up and point it down towards the floor and then remove the screws. It's kinda tricky, with a plain screw driver, get one of those bent at 90į and it should make it easier.

    If you remove this rheostat, you can then clean the top of the spring and the wiper contact so that it makes proper contact. This way you can restore it's function. If you aren't interested, then just connect the two wires connected to the rheostat together and you will have bypassed it altogether.

    Another thing that you can do, is a little more time and work intensive, but the results are EXCELLENT! Remove and OPEN the instrument gauge containers. Gently, and very methodically, remove the black shroud, lenses, pointer needles and face plates. THEN, paint the inside of the cases WHITE. Just be careful NOT to paint the green lens for the light, nor any of the actual instrument. Let it dry and reassemble.

    By the way, you can try to remove the heater control box from the face plate with it in the car. But you are really looking at a bear of a job as well as a potential problem if you break the face plate. Those face plates are going for over $50 each USED. Your best bet is to remove the cables that connect the heater controls to the appropriate points on the heater box, valve and vent flap, then pull the control panel cables and all. This is quite common and in fact is the way that the Factory Shop manual recommends it.

    I personally removed my dash, replaced the wiring harness, removed all the gauges, disassembled each one and updated paint, lubrication, etc in order to make them work better, so if you have any questions on this part, feel free to e-mail me.

    Hope this helps.

  28. #28
    240 Al
    Guest

    Default

    Yep that's pretty much what I did while the dash was out I lubed the heater cables,control levers,replaced the seals on the air intake of the heater housing and A/C duct [they were rotten].Blew
    out the heater core [leaves and crap].Wired for courtesy lights
    under dash and driving lights that can be turned on and off with the high beams or separately.All wires follow factory harness.The hastle and down time was worth it.

  29. #29
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    Where & what type bulbs are the 4W replacements? I picked up a nice uncracked dash and steering wheel and plan to swap them out next week. I think I'll swap the bulbs while the dash is out and need to pick up the lamps first.
    Last edited by jmark; 12-24-2004 at 04:20 AM.
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  30. #30
    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1490
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,874

    Default

    Mark

    Edit your post, you don't need to quote to reply. You can post a stand-alone post (as this is).

    The bulbs you want are Sylvania 53. I found them at True Value Hardware.

    Good luck
    Enrique

  31. #31
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    I meant to quote your post just so someone would know the bulbs I was asking about. Thanks for your info. I'll check around here for those bulbs. Are these the 4W upgraded bulbs or 3.4W stock ones?
    Last edited by jmark; 12-24-2004 at 04:24 AM.
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  32. #32
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-2169
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6,497

    Default

    Enrique-
    I looked up the Sylvania bulbs, and those are supposed to be 14.4 volts? At 4W, they must have a higher current draw than the standard bulbs, but not much. I was expecting them to be 12V, 4W bulbs.
    thx

  33. #33
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    I found the Sylvania #53 bulbs today. I am also trying to see if I can get a set of bulbs from John@h4lights. I know his bulbs are 4W. Could not tell if the Sylvania bulbs were.
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  34. #34
    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1490
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,874

    Default

    I'll see if I can post a picture of the package and bulbs that I have in my hand. Not only are they visually and dimensionally the same, they actually DO work, as that is the bulb I used when I replaced all of my burnt out or "fogged" bulbs.

    One point to be made here. If you check Voltages for automotive equipment, you'll not find a SET standard except in the most general of termms. I.e. Automobile Battery Voltage is 12V when in reality it is actually higher than that. A 12v DC Power Supply actually provides 13.5v DC. The charging circuit is 12v when it actually provides closer to 14-15.

    The variations are due to known expected losses through the circuitry, as well as inefficiencies of design that when compounded "average" out to approximately 12v. This is the "standard" that automobile electrical systems are designed around.

    The 14.4v voltage for the light bulbs you checked would be correct at 12v and would function correctly. The 14.4v rating is the Maximum working voltage the bulb can work with before it's service life is seriously shortened. How long depends on many other factors, variations in the voltage, spikes in the current flow, duration of use, etc. How short the life is, can be as sudden as a blow-out or just the darkening of the glass over time. This is caused by the element literally "burning up" and coating the inside of the glass with vaporized element.

    A light bulb basically operates because a small length of wire gets so hot that it gives off light due to the heat of the element. The reason for the wire getting hot is the internal resistance of the element. This is the "fight" if you will, that electrons must make as they travel through the element. The more they have to fight, and the more of the electrons there is, the brighter the bulb lights. More fight is more resistance, more electrons are higher voltage. If you reduce either one the bulb's brightness changes, brighter for less resistance and dimmer for less voltage. That balance is what the dimmer control effects. It either increases the resistance in the line feeding the instrument bulbs or it reduces it to almost zero (it can't, but that's another discussion), since it cannot increase the voltage in the line. Shunting it's wires eliminates whatever residual resistance is present through the switch at it's zero setting. Remember, the power to the bulbs all goes THROUGH the switch. If the wires are disconnected from the switch and not re-connected to each other, whether through the switch again, or directly, none of the dash lights will receive ANY power.

    Increasing the voltage is what those "capacitors" mentioned earlier are about. Their closest relative to something everyone is familiar with are your surge protectors. The surge protector ABSORBS energy over a given value, whereas those sound system capacitors make sure the voltage supplied never falls below a given voltage.

    Now the voltage of the bulb you mention was rated 4 Watts at 14.4 Volts. At 12v, supposing that your car's system functions at a perfect nominal 12v (it probably functions closer to 13 +) it won't burn as bright, but it will burn bright enough. The original specs for the dash bulbs were 12V 3.5W, so you're well within the margin of acceptable variance.

    Ok, hope this wasn't too longwinded nor too heavy an explanation.

    Enrique

  35. #35
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    Thanks Enrique.
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  36. #36
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    Guess I'll go with the Sylvania #53 bulbs.
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  37. #37
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-2169
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NorthCoast, Ohio
    Age
    60
    Posts
    6,497

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EScanlon
    The 14.4v rating is the Maximum working voltage the bulb can work with.
    That's all that you needed to say,
    or just

    "Try it, You'll like it." :
    thx
    Last edited by TomoHawk; 12-25-2004 at 08:07 AM.

  38. #38
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    I count 12 bulbs in the instrument panel & guages. Is that correct?
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  39. #39
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    I checked the Sylvania catalog and they call out bulb #194LL for the instrument panel. They don't mention #53 which looks more like what I pulled from my dash. 194LL looks more like a bayonet style bulb. What gives? FWIW I bought 7 packs of #53 bulbs @ $2.48/2 bulb pack at Advance Auto. I test fit one bulb and it fits fine. The Sylvania catalog calls for a 194LL bulb instead which looks nothing like the original/#53 bulbs.......
    Last edited by jmark; 12-26-2004 at 09:30 AM.
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  40. #40
    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1490
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,874

    Default

    I'll have to go back and check to see what the Sylvania catalog says as I can't remember.

    However, and this is both my observation and what I feel needs to be a cautionary note for other Z owners. I HAVE noticed in some catalogs that there is a tendency to "assume" by some manufacturers that because the 7X car used 12345 that 7X-1 also used the same.

    With the Z's early year cars, there were various changes that did change year to year as well as items that were changed later and considered a RETRO-fit.

    Also, don't forget that as time goes on, and demands for certain things drops off, manufacturers will combine items that differed by only one or two minor things. Sometimes it's this part supersedes that one, or this one supersedes those two. When you have an item that is now in it's second or third iteration of this cycle, then suddenly it doesn't fit.

    I don't have any of the 194LL's that you mentioned. When I went to the store to try to find replacement dash bulbs, I had read TONS of comments on how the ones that the catalogs listed as the proper replacement did NOT fit the green lens inside the case. Or comments on how the green lens got melted, or ..... So I did what I was taught to do in the bodyshop, go VISUALLY and then mechanically. So I took one of the original bulbs and went to the store after having used my calipers on the instrument opening and the original bulb. Once there, the Sylvania #53 matched the original bulb to within a gnat's hair. I was able to cross reference the voltage and wattage and once out of the package dimensions. Went home, plugged it in it worked, no further questions your honor.

    So you need to check the 194LL for yourself, especially if it's cheaper. But as long as I can get the 53's I'm set.

    By the way, a BAYONET bulb is one where the pins that stick out from the side of the main cylinder body are at the same height. Typically this is done on single element bulbs where there is only one contact at the base. On bulbs where there are two bulbs of different values and the need to maintain the contacts for each separate, you'll find an offset bayonet (not sure of the exact trade name) this is where one of the pins will be located at a different point on the cylinder than the other. A good example of this are your 1156 and 1157 bulbs. The 1156 is a single element typically seen as "running lights" on most American cars. The 1157 is a double element where one is noticeably brighter than the other (brake and running in one bulb). The pins for the 1156 are on the same line since it doesn't matter which way you insert the bulb. The 1157 does have a specific need for the brighter element so the pin is offset and the bulb fits in only ONE direction.

    Hope this helped you.

    Enrique

    For those desiring a short / quick answer:

    I compared them and bought the one that matched. I don't need no "stinkin' catalogs".

    E

  41. #41
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    Enrique,

    I agree the #53 fits fine & is the same size physically. I wonder if the 194LL fits older Z's and not the '78 280Z I have. I bought all the #53's two stores had. Going to swap out an uncracked original dash for my covered/cracked one. I'll relamp everything at this time. I noticed a GE lamp that also looked like a good fit too. I beleive it was the #1445 you mentioned. I appreciate your help & expertise.
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  42. #42
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    What wattage is the #53 bulb? Hope it is close to the OEM bulb. The box has no wattage rating only 12V.
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  43. #43
    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1490
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,874

    Default

    I don't recall and the package I have doesn't list it either. If I recall (from an older package) it was either 3.5w or as Tomohawk pointed out 4w @14.4v.

    I can tell you that my lights are nice and bright and that I even use the dimmer to bring the brightness down.

    Enrique

  44. #44
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5664
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Greer, S.C.
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,710

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EScanlon
    I don't recall and the package I have doesn't list it either. If I recall (from an older package) it was either 3.5w or as Tomohawk pointed out 4w @14.4v.

    I can tell you that my lights are nice and bright and that I even use the dimmer to bring the brightness down.

    Enrique
    That's what I want to hear. I'll let you know how it goes on Friday. Going to swap the cracked/covered dash out for the used uncracked dash & relamp all the guages with the #53 bulbs. Thanks!
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  45. #45
    Registered User Curtis240Z's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-4128
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    539

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mmagnus
    I just purchase a 1970 240z that is in overall very good shape.
    I noticed that the dash light is very dim. when I put on the gas it gets a little brighter but no where it should be. Could this be the coil or voltage switch???
    As previously mentioned, this is a normal condition for the 240Z. The biggest improvement I've found is using the white face gauge laminates and isolating the headlights from the lighting circuit. Now the gauges are BRIGHT and the dash lights don't dim at idle Plus the headlights are WAY brighter!

  46. #46
    Fired Up! JLPurcell's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-7454
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Richmond, Indiana
    Age
    67
    Posts
    1,098

    Lightbulb Removal of Rheostat

    My 72 has the rheostat just to the right of the steering column and under the face of the dash if yours is the same then there are two screws or nuts one each side of the switch from the back. The black knob pulls off then the switch pushes throught to the back. There are two wires both red with blue trace one having a male and the other a female spade connector. Hope I'm not to late and hope this helps. JLP
    Last edited by JLPurcell; 12-28-2004 at 08:33 AM.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •