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Thread: battery hookup

  1. #1
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
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    Default battery hookup

    I am in the process of running my wiring harness and battery leads. Does anyone have a clear photo of where the positive and negative cable run to. I have looked thru the repair manuals but its not clear. I know this is dumb question but i dont want to screw it up.
    1970 240Z Rebello built motor. Under full Restoration!

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    Neg cable gets bolted to the upper bolt that secures the starter to the Transmission case.

    Pos cable gets attached to the larger of the two studs on the starter solinoid.

  3. #3
    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bambikiller240
    Neg cable gets bolted to the upper bolt that secures the starter to the Transmission case.

    Pos cable gets attached to the larger of the two studs on the starter solinoid.

    What about the smaller cable coming off of the positive cable? Any pix?
    1970 240Z Rebello built motor. Under full Restoration!

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    Registered User MikeW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmagnus
    What about the smaller cable coming off of the positive cable? Any pix?
    That would just be a feature of that particular battery cable and isn't needed.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmagnus
    What about the smaller cable coming off of the positive cable? Any pix?
    The smaller cable comes off the NEG cable, not the POS. It gets screwed to the firewall. There should be a small screw in the firewall that is used for that.

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    Registered User mmagnus's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. That helps a lot.
    1970 240Z Rebello built motor. Under full Restoration!

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    '72 240Z(G) 3.2L
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    Default cables

    You might want to consider getting a 24"F" battary that has the positive post away and out from under the body. You will need different cables but in the long run I believe it's the right way to go. Just my $.02 (adjusted for inflation) worth..
    if a little knowledge can make you dangerous, I'm a little dangerous

  8. #8
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bambikiller240
    The smaller cable comes off the NEG cable,gets screwed to the firewall. There should be a small screw in the firewall that is used for that.
    Where on the firewall is that first picture? Also, those bolts look rusty, did you treat them to a de-rusting? I'll put both of those spots on my list.

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    Well, since the battery is in the picture, I guess it's NEXT TO THE BATTERY!

    It is an old bolt and the cad plating is long gone , the entire bolt (along with the terminal) was cleaned up with DeOxiT before winter. The bolt head has since acquired a film of surface rust. Since everything still works normally, I think the DeOxiT is still protecting the threads.

  10. #10
    Flannigan The C110's Avatar
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    FWIW this is the 240k forum.....
    HGC110-008484 - Why didnt they just badge them as Skylines in Oz!?

  11. #11
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    I couldn't tell it was a battery there on the left.

    I've been using a copper-based anti-sieze on things like those bolts. Not just because I worked on the formula, and in the lab it showed some interesting electrical properties. Copper anti-sieze worked miracles on exhaust manifiold bolts, even after a few years.

    Why not just clear-coat the boltheads? Also, it sound like you give DeOxIt thumbs up?

    thx
    Last edited by TomoHawk; 01-05-2005 at 02:31 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TomoHawk
    I
    Why not just clear-coat the boltheads? Also, it sound like you give DeOxIt thumbs up?

    thx
    I'm too lazy.

    "DeOxiT 100" cleaned up my Wiper Motor connector electrical terminals quickly and easily to bright and shiney metal. When I first looked at them, they appeared so filthy and corroded that I feared they would fall apart in my hands. I am pleased with how it works. It won't add metal back, but it removes the corrosion very well, and seems to protect the connectors from corroding again.

  13. #13
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bambikiller240
    "DeOxiT 100" cleaned up my Wiper Motor connector electrical terminals quickly and easily to bright and shiney metal....
    Where did you get DeOxit 100? Is that te name of the product or the ingredient?

    thx

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    I bought directly from Caig (the manufacturer).

    They do sell on eBay, but currently they are only selling "DeOxiT D5" (which is the 5% solution on eBay.

    The 100% solution is much better for cleaning contacts and connectors. The D5 is best for periodic maintainance of clean, un-oxidized connections

    Check out the Caig website. There are PDF documents that you can download that describe all of the products and thier uses.

    Caig Website (makers of DeOxiT products
    Last edited by Bambikiller240; 01-23-2005 at 05:14 PM.

  15. #15
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Thanks,

    I have a can of D5, and it seemed to help a little on the headslights connctors on my 180Z, but I didn't see much dfifference on the connectors.

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    Check their website for more info. You can dowload lots of info to your computer for future refference. D5 is meant only to maintain clean contacts. If the metal is oxidized, they reccommend the 100% product to clean, then a light coat of D5 periodically.

  17. #17
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    According to the website, Radio Shack is supposed to carry DeOxit. Everybody go there and get TWO cans to the DeoXit- 100 spray

    Even if you have to order some. They should get smart and stock it already with all those useless "tuner cleaners." WExcept the DeOxit isn't useless.

  18. #18
    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bambikiller240
    DeOxiT100" cleaned up my Wiper Motor connector electrical terminals quickly and easily to bright and shiney metal.
    How about that DeOxit 100??? I got a 2 oz. can from "Parts Express.com and I got it the next day! Then I used it on the AFM connector. How about that bubbling action??? It shined up the blades right quick. The D5 spray didn't bubble, or clean any, afaik.

    At $12 a 2oz. can, it's expensive, but it really did a job on the corrosion. I can't wait for the weather to get warmer so I can do the wipers, headlights, and the engine connectors.

    I think I just need to get a bigger can of the DeOXit 100, and some CorrosionX.

    thx
    Last edited by TomoHawk; 03-11-2005 at 02:40 PM.

  19. #19
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    Use the D100 sparingly. You can buy the CorrosionX, but the D5 spray is pretty good for maintaining cleaned connectors and you already have it (it sounds like).

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