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Thread: Wiring diagram complete re-design: diagram included

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    Default Wiring diagram complete re-design: diagram included

    So for the past couple of weeks I have been working on a wiring diagram whenever I have been bored or drunk. So here is the nearly final diagram that I will be putting in my car.



    larger version http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/...611f45c7_o.jpg

    the point was to start new when i install the new dash, get rid of everything possible and use switches, replace glass tubes with and bladed fuses/breakers; since i have yet to find a diagram that does that i decided to make one and share.

    a couple notes on the components.

    -designed to work for a 240z, but really anything is possible with this

    -all gauges are to be assumed autometer unless i find a better/cheaper option, or i decide to use a motorcycle dash and figure things out that way. fuel gauge has 350 and 360ohm resistors ran in parallel.

    -wiper motor is the honda wiper upgrade, based off of the diagrams that were posted on this forum. switch is low/off/high

    -gm hei 280z dizzy conversion

    -euro/jdm rear light blinker mod; via the write up found on this forum

    -turn signal and indicator lamps (front and rear) are re-wired to work like the kit that was sold here and the one at MSA

    - all switches are ground switches, unless not really possible. everything that was operated by or from a Datsun stock component has been removed and replaced with a switch or button.

    -e-Fan is a Pontiac V6 Fiero fan, and the manual switch can be replaced with a temp switch.

    -alternator is the CS144/280zx internally regulated alt upgrade, write up found on this hybridz

    === this essentially my first attempt at wiring a car. Any input would be greatly appreciate, and any ideas would be awesome as well.

    The only thing that I have yet to draw in is the stereo, if you could call it that; essentially it would be 3.5mm headphone jack to speakers. I dont want the radio, or cd player from a dash unit just the AUX in. I think I will need an amp, or some type of signal booster, so that the two speakers will have some umph to em. I have yet to really research this, but once I find a diagram that will work I will add it in.

    once the diagram is complete it will have routing plans so you can have a coveted "invisible harness", wire gauge and length; and total cost needed for the entire car. Or, if anything, to be used with a painless or EZ-Wiring kit.
    Last edited by crazyoctopus; 03-16-2010 at 11:25 PM. Reason: added alternator notes

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    For your first time attempting to re-wire a car, you have a very good understanding of the circuitry and I am sure you will be successful. Just a matter of planning the physical layout of the harnesses and making use of some better connectors. I am guessing you will be using weatherpack connectors? Nice project, good luck!

    http://www.electerm.com/packardweather.html
    Last edited by geezer; 03-17-2010 at 09:15 AM. Reason: added link

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    So are you looking for honest critiques/feedback?
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    So does being drunk help with your electrical wiring skills? I can't even do that stuff sober! Good luck with the project. Let us know how it works out.


    carl
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    1970 240z

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    -geezer - I have yet to source out the connections and relays, so that link is super helpful. and as far as the layout goes, I am planning to get measurements and lay it all out on a piece of plywood with nails and twine.

    - SteveJ -honest critiques = yes please. mainly looking at the fuse and relay amperage, let me know if they are too high or low; If there is any chance that I can tie two circuits together, or if I have something wired incorrectly.

    - cbudvet - i guess it does!

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    You need to add several more circuits into your plan. Most are a matter of convenience but some are nessesary. Your diagram doesn't show the horn button, relay or horns. I don't know if you are planning on running an electric fuel pump. If so you will want to incorporate an emergency shutdown circuit also. Other conveniences that come to mind are door switches, dome/interior lighting, windshield washers, rheostat, glove box light, rear defroster grid, handbrake indicator, antenna switch. The horn and windshield washers are needed to make it legal, everything else, your choice to add in or not.

    There are some good charts available to determine wire gauges. Other than that, planning good circuit protection and wire routing are your main concerns.
    Is your battery going to be in the stock location? From looking at your diagram, it appears you are taking the minimalist approach. Is this intentional? Are you going for the hidden/invisible harness look?
    Just trying to get on the same page.
    Look up the recent thread, where I described how to number/label circuits, connectors, wires, making it easy to layout/follow a harness. I think it was cbudvet's thread. I'll look it up and link it here. Could be helpful.

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...00&postcount=9

    http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
    Last edited by geezer; 03-17-2010 at 02:02 PM.

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    thanks geezer,

    -Horn button and relays are replaced with the CB and its 100w PA.

    -forgot about the fuel pump and i'll make sure to add that in, as well as the appropriate shutdown circuit.
    =thinking about the shutdown circuit i forgot to show the the battery disconnect switch

    -all interior lighting is removed, and replaced with a battery operated flashlight

    -rear defrost, rheostat, handbrake ind are not going back in.

    -antenna switch is not needed due to me not having a radio, and the area that usually holds an antenna will be replaced with a CB antenna that doesnt require power.

    battery is located in the storage bin behind the passenger; the PC680 fits PERFECTLY in there


    =it has since been lined with an 1/8th inch thick rubber mat to protect from grounding out.

    yes my goal is minimalist with an invisible harness. as far as the wiring thanks for the link it will be very helpful, as of right now i plan to use RV wire due to it already coming insulated as well as with multiple wires and colors; not finalized yet. for the windshield washers, i thought it was just the law to have blades not the pump

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    updated for kill switch and fuel pump.



    large image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/...edeea5fc_o.jpg

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    Moved the wiper motor onto the heater circuit, it just looks like I may be overloading the accessory circuit. The heater connections have been changed. I was planning on running the core with a PC fan, but found this site http://mildevco.net/chevypowereddats...sary_stuff.htm and am going in that direction. In looking at prices and weights of how to connect the iPod to speakers I found that while a head unit is about $10 more than just an amp, it weighs about 3 times as less. as of right now the cheapest deck that I can find with an aux-in is this http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Dual+-+5...&skuId=9463154 ==if you know of a cheaper one I am all ears, all it needs to have is an aux-in. also added a cigarette lighter so that I can charge my iPhone/iPod while on the road.

    I think this is nearly the final design version of the diagram, if you can see anything that I missed or ways that I could combine circuits let me know. My goal is to have 8 circuits, but as long as I am under 10 I will be a-okay with it.



    larger version http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/...942b906f_o.jpg

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    I think you will re-draw your diagram again, when it becomes evident improvements can be made. It could be for simplicity of wire routing or an attempt to hide the harness components. Certainly nothing I could point out right now, but circumstances you may come across when the theory becomes reality. Looks pretty good so far, you are off to a good start and I for one will enjoy following your progress. I like the simplistic nature of the Z and a simple, reliable electrical system will absolutely compliment your car. Good luck!

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    oh i agree completely. before i pick up the exhaust components tomorrow i kinda want to move stuff around so as to make it look the the routing and placement of everything, but it all depends on how much alchy i ingest, and how early i wake up.

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    new revision, made everything modular. kinda wanted to keep it below 10 circuits but we found some fantastic fuse and relay boxes out of a 90s maxima so how many circuits we use is no longer an issue.



    larger size >> http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/...31f79cfe_o.jpg

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    It is very convenient to locate a Power Distribution Center, housing the nessesary fuses and relays in the engine compartment, minimizing the lengths of wire needed to power the forward lighting, horns, fan(s), etc. I'm curious to see where you will locate it, keeping it out of sight but easily accessible. Just as the original wiring was divied into an engine harness, instrument panel harness and body harness, you will find your new electrical system will more or less follow the same exact pattern with the exception of adding relays into the circuits.
    There is one thing I would like to point out. It doesn't make any difference how you wire the relays with the circuits you have created in your diagram but it is not the way I normally do it. You are supplying voltage to pin 87 of the relay, which when triggered allows voltage to exit via pin 30. I have always reversed this; in pin 30 - out pin 87. The circuit will work the same, but you can also take advantage of pin 87A having voltage while at rest only, in case you wanted to utilize that feature. The other way you can't. Minor detail, otherwise, great diagram as far as I can see!
    Last edited by geezer; 03-27-2010 at 11:17 PM. Reason: spelling

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    distribution center was taken out of a nissan maxima (if you find a 93 they are slightly easier to work with) total cost $6 at a junkyard. the other way would be to actually buy a pre-built fuse box for $16-$170. with the relays, take it off the smae car and they are pre-wired and fairly easy to identify the amperage, just takes some internet browsing. awesome thing about the nissan relay housings is that you can connect however many you want to eaachother (run anywhere from 5-500 relays and they all snap into eachother)







    as far as the mounting goes, the 240sx (s13) center console lends itself perfectly for the mounting of the fuse box. The relays will be mounted under the dash near the switches.

    as far as the wiring goes; all of the relays that I buy/use, except the wiper, are 4 terminal relays. In the case of the wiper motor I am even thinking about just cutting that down a bit and making it switched for fast-off, instead of slow-off-fast, but i am still thinking about it.

    We have made a few more adjustments since rev6, some of the amperages were a bit excessive, decided on going with an eBayish 12v heater, and I moved/removed a couple more circuits/switches/relays that really didn't need to be there.



    full size >> http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/...7763031f_o.jpg

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    Don't know if you thought about it or not but do you need the light inside of ashtry? Don't know if all Z's have it but my 77 does, never worked though.
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    nope not going to use it. the interior lighting is going to be taken care of from a flashlight.

    if you really wanted to add it, i would tap it off of the heater circuit with a switch.

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    the alternator wiring was brought up on hybridz, and I had to make sure that it was also clear on classicz as well.

    ==

    after doing a bit of looking, i knew there was a reason why this set up was working, and found the link i was looking for http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=115803

    if you look at my diagram the splice connecting the alt to the coil is after the delco 8078 pigtail.

    The splices in the diagram in its current state do not relate to the actual placement on the car just to be used as a reference, for now.

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    I can understand the concern getting the alternator wiring correct. I haven't had the experience of converting to an internally regulated alternator of the Nissan variety, but have done so with GM SI-10 & SI-12 alternators for years. We liked them because of the ease of wiring, cheap cost and in our boats it didn't matter what direction the SIs alternators rotated. I imagine the same principals apply. I have always used a diode in line on the excite wire instead of a resistor, tapped into the fused ignition run circuit. It must be a dead circuit, when in your case the ignition switch is off. The sense wire should come from the far reaches of a likewise fused circuit. You cannot connect directly to a Batt feed. The alternator would not be able to accurately compensate for accessory loads if connected directly to the battery. One other thing I notice is the absense of a ground wire coming off the alternator lug, which should run to the neg. battery post. Don't just rely on the ground provided by mounting if you want to avoid trouble.
    I did notice the one comment on HybridZ relating to the importance of your diagram. I think it is very important, especially as time goes by. It has been about ten years since I designed and built my last complete custom harness and without all the crude drawings and hand written explanations I made at the time, I would be in for a whole new learning experience, when it came time for troubleshooting. Here's a few examples of the crude drawings and explanations I found nessesary at the time. You may be able to use the fuel pump circuit.
    Last edited by geezer; 02-14-2011 at 09:57 PM.

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    thanks for the input, and the wiring was a good reference; however I don't think i will be using it with this diagram. while it does kill the pump in an accident, it also adds complexity. For a non-track car, or for a restoration car i would definitely add this bit of safety into it, but to keep cost down and simplicity high, no real need.

    as far as the diode goes, what type are you using? I have also heard of using a charge light, but i am truly lost when people start talking about it. if i use a regular 2-pin led/autometer light would that work?

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    These illustrations should clear things up for you. Although GM SI alternators are used as examples, a ZX internal regulating 3-wire alternator should follow the same principals. I took a pic showing the diode connected to my multimeter. You can see the band on the end of the diode signifying the direction current can travel. Consider the band the point of an arrow. The diode will prevent the engine from "running on" after the ignition switch has been turned off. They are $1.59 for a package of 3. In the first illustration, the basic "it will work" method is shown. Ok for a car with very limited battery draw from accessories and maybe what you want but most of us would benefit from the second example.

    Edit: Sure, the Autometer light will work as long as it is wired in between the ignition switch and the alternator. Myself, I like the convenience of a light, as it keeps you more aware of how/or if your charging system is functioning.

    Just a note concerning the second illustration: The #2 sense wire will better regulate a heavily taxed electrical system if connected to a distant fused source.
    Last edited by geezer; 02-14-2011 at 09:57 PM.

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    If the battery were mounted under the hood the ground wire attached to the alt would be prime; but mine is going to be mounted in the rear passenger bin so that wire would have to be at least an 8 gauge. I am going to probably going to use a 8 to connect it somewhere on the firewall.

    I did make one change to the second diagram that you sent, and that is instead of running 2-wires back to the starter I am going to use a jumper from the # to the Batt on the alternator and run one wire back to the starter.

    updated diagram. spliced points moved on the starter to better show where the wires will be meeting. also added the information for properly wiring the alternator via geezer



    larger image http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2732/...f537d584_o.jpg

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    Little bit of a boo boo there showing a neg. at the starter? For clarity you should show the starter solenoid with the correct connections. Improvements can be made here. The alternator charge wire should connect directly to the starter solenoid and then continue on to the Fusebox/Power Distribution Center. For later consideration, the diode should be as close to the alternator as possible for easy accessibility.

    The “Alt Coil Relay” can be eliminated. The alternator doesn’t require a relay and the 12V to the Coil can be supplied by an Ignition Switch that would replace what you are calling the Safety Switch, which does nothing where it is presently located. The Kill Switch is the only way to shut off the engine in your diagram, other than the "Alt Coil Switch", which should be gone, or the Fuel Pump Switch.
    I would put the Kill Switch where it would do just that. Kill everything. Having the Battery located in the storage compartment, it would be easy to locate the Kill Switch within easy reach. Then again, you probably have it figured out where you are going to hide it already. No sense advertising that.
    It also seems to be inconvenient, having to flip a switch for a Reverse Flood Light. A little creativity here would make it an automatic feature, taking the possibility of human error out of the equation, converting the switch to an override function instead.
    I would also incorporate Fusible Links or better yet Maxi Fuses into the circuit. I see the potential for lots of improvements, which will also keep it simple. If you want, I can make a few quick drawings to explain better.
    Last edited by geezer; 03-31-2010 at 01:43 AM.

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    Thanks for the incredible corrections to the diagram!

    -starter: yeah a bit if a boo boo there. There are really only two places that the wires can go so I just made one a neg. When I have a chance I'll make it clearer as to where the wires go; most likely either use the one from the second diagram or make my own from a fronal view of the starter. Diode will be moved at te same time

    -Safety switch: was put in place so that the starter button would not activate if the switch was off.

    -alt coil relay: great news about the loss of a relay. I am a bit confused about your suggestion for the coil wiring. From what I understand all that I would need to do would be to replace the relay with a switch and keep the wiring how it is.

    -kill switch: as per, I think, SCCA regs you need to have a way to turn off power to everything from the driving position. I want to make it so there are two. One that is easily accessable and the other that will act as the safety somewhere else in the line; the initial "safety switch" was something along those lines, but just not as potent.

    -reverse flood switch: in reality the only reason why this is there is because my reverse switch that is attached to the tranny has both of the wire snipped/snapped/broken off, so this was the only way for me to get reverse lights until I find another switch. When that happens I plan to route the stocks lights to it, and the flood attached to a switch.

    Please please, do make drawings to correct/modify/change the diagram to simplify/clarify the diagram.

    A question on the uses of fuseable links/ maxi fuses: why would you need one if there is already one in that circuit?

    Thanks again geezer!

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    Not so much a correction, but maybe tweaking, nitpicking...whatever. You have a good basic plan here and your explanations have helped me understand it better.
    The Safety Switch is a problem for me. You would have to get into the habit of flipping that switch off everytime you have started the car. It's your choice but I would prefer having a Starter Button equipt with a spring loaded, hinged protection cover, which is fool proof, instead of a switch that you may forget to flip off.

    The Alt Coil Relay; I think I just have a problem with the name and the lack of separation from any alternator wiring. Replacing it with a dedicated Ignition Relay would simplify future trouble shooting of both the ignition circuit and charging circuit. Just something to think about. I will draw up an idea for you to look over.

    Do you have the SCCA rules covering the venues you are interested in? Lots of help can be found from the guys on this site. It would be a good thing, to be well versed on the rules before you waste any time and money on things that may have to be changed in order to comply.

    Now that I know the reasoning behind the Reverse Flood Light, I would think the best option would be fixing the stock switch & wiring for the backup lights.

    Fusible Links are typically found in close proximity of high amp sources and intended to protect the downstream wiring. It's much easier to replace a fusible link than a football field length of wiring that is wrapped and tucked out of sight before reaching the fusebox. They are never used inside a vehicle and if you have ever seen a fusible link blow out in the dark you would know why. The fuses used for protecting individual circuits have a tendency to wear down over time from the effects of accessory start up where you can have a brief amperage spike of twice the fuse rating and also from the corrosion and consequenses of over time. I have seen some fusible links that are still doing their job 30 plus years later. The people that have modernized their cars with Maxi fuses seem to be happy with the results and I haven't heard of any problems from anyone doing so. They are just better in the sense of being more convenient, durable and I would say safer with less chance of fire occurring from a flash burnout.

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    the safety switch isnt a temporary on, it is a standard switch. all it does is break the connection from button to starter if it is off; that way if i am in a not-so-safe neighborhood i can just flick it off and by pushing the button it does nothing. the name of safety is a bit misleading should have been "security," my mistake.

    i can see what you are talking about with their own individual circuits, and since i have the room to run them i will be separating them.

    for the kill switch i came across this diagram and really dig that it ground switched rather than the hot switched BIG RED LEVER that most people use.

    ==actually i really dont like this layout due to there being many connections to the battery post, also these wires would be used in place of the power that i already have going to those locations. i am reworking what i see here so that it runs before the switches/relays giving a true kill.

    flood light, yeah... just need to find one in a junk yard... hmmm maybe i'll head over today and see if there is one.

    In regards to the fusable links via maxi, since it adds safety without adding a significant addition of complexity I dont see why i wouldn't include it.
    Last edited by crazyoctopus; 03-31-2010 at 01:15 PM. Reason: diagram for kill switch wasn't working for me...

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    Alright, I am not sure if this actually works, but the theory of this kill switch makes inebriated sense.



    one switch for the dizzy and alt, but has their own relay, even though i know they dont need one it makes it a ground switch and can control both circuit without much load on it. when the ground kill switch is off all power running to the relays will be cut; before and after the fuse box.

    I added a few maxi fuses in there, the 120A from the starter to the fusebox is just a guess, 10A at the coil and alt are to match what is in the fuse box.
    Last edited by crazyoctopus; 03-31-2010 at 11:28 PM. Reason: added details

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    yeah that wont work... i'll fix it in the morning...

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    Look this over and see if it is suitable.

    In this drawing I forgot to put in the Ignition Relay which is needed to shut off the engine. You can use a switch on the dash to supply a ground for this relay. With this plan there is only the Battery Cable, the Charge LED, which will require two wires (to and fro) and two smaller gauge ground control wires for the Ignition & Starter Relays, that are needed in the cabin. Easiest/cheapest solution for a Kill Switch is a manually operated one.

    Using the Jumper Wire from the S terminal to the Bat. terminal on the Alternator will work but will not sense the voltage drop as effectively as it would if connected to a distant fused source.

    Edit: After thinking about it, I will redraw that diagram. It will work like I've shown but I have compromised the circuit protection by using a jumper wire on the relays connecting Pins 30 & 86. I did this just to try to keep the amount of wiring to a minimum and you can run it that way if you like but I would recommend running wires to Pin 86 from the fused sources in the Power Distribution Center for that purpose instead.
    Last edited by geezer; 02-14-2011 at 09:57 PM.

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    Ok after looking at it closer I found that Pin 30 can be jumped to Pin 86 as long as Pin 86 is fused. It is, in my second attempt. Your choice, to use the Charge LED or just eliminate it. I'm not very good at drawing these but I hope it helps.
    Last edited by geezer; 02-14-2011 at 09:57 PM.

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    liked the second one alot. i might run into an issue with the kill switch being tapped onto my main battery cable; 1 awg is thick ****. i like how the relays are laid out and how everything is tied together. i'll make these changes when i can, but before i do i need to throw some pretty parts on teh car

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    The first thing you should do, is find out what the rules are. It may be in the rules that you need an alternator interupt circuit, to prevent the possibility of a self energized field winding and possible run on. And if that is a rule, you can bet that you will need a fuel pump shutoff as well. This is easy stuff to do, if needed.
    The master battery disconnect will no doubt be a requirement and there is no problem fitting the 1AWG cable with terminals that connect to a master shutoff switch.
    I attached this link showing a shutoff switch that is NHRA approved only as an example. It has the removeable extention rod on it that is used to provide a "push/pull" operation from the outside/rear of the vehicle. I made the same from a heavy duty switch from a tractor supply company for about $20.00; minus the NHRA approval. The cable and terminals, I got from the local welding equipment dealer, sold by the foot.
    One other thing to consider. A lot of weight can be added by running a heavy cable the extra distance relocating a battery. Especially if another of the requirements is an "Approved" box to house the battery. When you stop and think about it, the benefits are not so great, relocating it.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FL...&N=700+-107651
    Last edited by geezer; 04-02-2010 at 12:17 PM. Reason: bad speeling

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    yeah, I think that I will be relocating back under the hood. a lot less wring would be involved, and like you mentioned the weight of the 1awg wire wouldnt be there.

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    here is the updated with your relays taken into place; didn't add the charge led though. When I showed this to the co-creator he was told me to "stop changing the layout!" but I think that having the starter on a ground switch is awesome.



    larger http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4002/...fa414f76_o.jpg

    once i get the car started up and running well, I will be attacking this on some plywood and getting the drawings laid out exactly like it would be on the car.

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    Looks like a good plan. The only thing I would recommend is the "in 30 out 87" deal, just so others don't get confused and you stay ISO compliant.

    Good Work!

    Edit: I did not look at this latest diagram close enough before saying it was a good plan. I was pressed for time and just assumed that you followed the example in my diagram. You changed it up and compromised the Starter Relay circuit's protection. You have not made the distinction between Maxi fuses and Mini fuses. Take another look at the way I have Pin 86 and also because it is jumped, Pin 30 protected by a Mini Fuse in the PDC. Same as the Ignition Relay. The Starter Relay is only being used as a means to control the Starter Solenoid with a Ground. The Maxi fuse is intended to protect the downstream cable coming from the Battery and the Starter Motor only. The way you have it configured the Starter Relay and associated wire can go up in flames before the Maxi Fuse blows.

    Take another look at my example diagram. It's a crude drawing, the Mini Fuses aren't labeled, but everythings shown to make the Starter circuit safe and reliable.
    Last edited by geezer; 02-14-2011 at 09:58 PM.

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    gotcha. tomorrow i will be pretty much free and clear; as most of it will be running around getting the brake lines that i need and researching on the proper initial tuning of the carbs, so i'll be able to make the changes that you mentioned.

    for the 30 to 87 swap all i would have to do is swap the numbers correct? So it would be 85 ground switch, 86 feed form mini fuse, 30 jumpered to 86, and 87 gives power to object?

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    Yes, on your diagram just swap out the Pin 30 connections with the Pin 87 connections by changing the numbers. After making that correction and adding a fused source for the Starter relay, it should be good to go.

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    changes made, removed the slow action of the wiper as well. it is now, from what i can tell, fast-off (honda wiper motor).


    large image http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/...82771c22_o.jpg

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    It is good to go, as far as keeping with your minimalist theme. If it was my car, I would use whatever extra wire was needed in order to separate the control side of the relay (pin 86) from the battery power (pin 30), using seperate fuses to protect, but it will work as is. A few more details will have to be kept in mind when you actually implement the plan. It would be a good idea to separate the bus bar (fuse feed), so the headlights high beams and low beams and perhaps the fog lights are derived/grouped from a dedicated Maxi Fuse. Look at any fuse box and you will see that the high amperage draw items have a dedicated wire and fusable link/maxi fuse connecting to the bus bar. Just something to keep in mind, instead of having 1-150 amp Maxi Fuse covering everything on 1 bus bar. That is something you can decide on when the components come together in the car. Each end device/accessory and length/gauge of wire used will have to be evaluated in order to assign the proper sized fuse for each. You can never go wrong by using too small of a fuse to start with. Good luck and I hope I was helpful.
    Last edited by geezer; 04-07-2010 at 01:39 PM.

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    in regards to the 1 maxi to run all of the fuses, i will be running 2. Here are a photo of the fuse box that i will be using



    so yes there will be 2 maxi's one for each side bank of fuses, I am currently working on the soon-built diagram showing the approximate path, location of all of the switches, relays, fuses, and wire colors to said relays and fuses. the 1 maxi per-bank will be brought in to that layout.

    and yes to proper fuse amperages, i think i mentioned it way back when, but the fuse amperage is just a guideline for now until i get the actual draw of the unit and the length of wire.

    This weekend the junkyard is having a 1/2 off sale so I will picking up a wiper motor, maxi fuse panel, and possibly a 5 speed if the bank account says it is okay

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    Right now i am in the process of making the diagram look like it will be wired, as well as seeing where I could cut costs. While trying to fix my brake issue I noticed that the 240z has a 2 terminal flasher unit so I am in the process of working that relay into the drawing. would this set up work?



    the only thing that I am hesitant on is the emergency switch, I feel that if i turn on the turn signal switch both lights will still come on.

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    i scrapped the idea of going with that turn signal diagram and went back to the old one.

    - modified the amperages on the fusebox to match what is actually present
    - color on the fuse box represent the different circuits built into the box
    - different colors in the fuse box represent a change in amperage from stock
    - big visual change for routing.
    - red switches represent HOT switch, rather than a ground switch



    larger image found HERE

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