Turn signals stopped working!

[Reverend]

I was taking my 72-Z to the registration office week ago and guess what. At that very moment inspector entered the car and started to inspect it, turn signals went dead. Few moments ago they were working... What might cause this? Fuses are ok. When i turn that switch i can only hear one "click-clock" instead of continuous click-clock-click.... and the arrow indicator also stays black. It has done that few times randomly but it has always worked out eventually. Now it wont.

help appreciated!

[JohnnyO]

Sounds like the flasher is shot. I think they are cheap and available from any autoparts shop. In my 70 it is mounted just below the tachometer on the steering column. It is mounted with a Phillips head screw and has 2 wires going into it.

Take out the old one and bring it with you to the store.

John

[FastWoman]

I agree -- the flasher.

You should replace your old thermal flasher with an electonic one. It will use less power and be easier on your switches and wiring. Then you can make the conversion to LED turn signal lamps, which will make an even bigger difference. (LED lamps are incompatible with thermal flashers.)

[Zs-ondabrain]

gonna dissagree with you guys this time. If you had an inspector in there, messing with stuff. Check you Hazard switch. flip it up then down (on off) wiggle it and test your Turn signals again. The turn signals go thru the hazard switch and if they were messing with that it could be the problem.

if that doesn't fix it, Then try the new flasher.
Dave

[Reverend]

Actually, turn signals went down after he tried hazard switch..!! He told me that. So should i replace the hazard switch or what?

[Zs-ondabrain]

make sure the hazard switch is in the "OFF" position, wiggle the toggle a little while the blinker switch is on (in the left or right turn position) and the key on. wiggle it, flip it on and off, try a few things. If you find that it just won't work anymore, then replace the switch.

Do me a favor and take a picture of the hazard switch you have so I can see if I have an extra to clean up, rebuild and sell you.
Dave

[Reverend]

Alrighty. Dang i have to wait for 6 hours to get home to test it.
Thanks in advance.

[FastWoman]

Dave, Koalia, the one "click-clock" sound sound when the turn signal is engaged is probably an indication that the tail light circuit (including flasher) has been energized. That's why I think it's the flasher. However, it's also possible there's inadequate current to that circuit -- perhaps from corroded connections in the hazard switch. (Dave's our switch guy, so his hunch is perhaps better than mine.)

I still believe strongly in the LED conversion, BTW! The more that can be done to reduce current demands on our switches, the longer our switches will last.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Dave, Koalia, the one "click-clock" sound sound when the turn signal is engaged is probably an indication that the tail light circuit (including flasher) has been energized. However, it's also possible there's inadequate current to that circuit -- perhaps from corroded connections in the hazard switch. I still believe strongly in the LED conversion, BTW! The more that can be done to reduce current demands on our switches, the longer our switches will last.

Exactly. There's just enough current to allow the flasher to power up once then it falls on it's face, due to bad contacts. I've not only seen it happen many times, but have experienced it many times as well.

Led's WILL severely reduce the current (amps) running thru each circuit and demand less of the wires, contacts, switches, fuses, everything. I still do all the LED upgrades if anyone is interested. Your purchases allow me to donate to the site......... Just a thought.

Dave

[ktm]

Definitely check the flasher. You have not indicated that you've investigated the flasher in your later posts.

Flashers are easy and very inexpensive to replace. It is definitely a possible cause. Just because Dave disagrees does not mean he is correct. He could very well be, but check the flasher before pursuing other more timing consuming and costly (as in more expensive than a flasher) remedies.

Check the fuse as well. A corroded connection at the fuse, bad fuse (loose internally), etc. would drop the voltage significantly and not power the flasher.

[Reverend]

I havent checked the flasher relay, but i'll buy one (or two!) anyways. Theyll cost about 3$. Are the 240z turn lights usually lazy or do i just have tired one? It is extreeeemly slow when turning lights are on (and working. In my other B310 Datsun turn signal is twice faster.

[SteveJ]

That could be a function of your alternator output. Make sure the alternator belt is tightened to the proper spec and that the engine is idling at the proper speed. Also corrosion in the circuits can rob them of just enough power that thermal flashers don't heat up as quickly, especially at idle speeds. That's a big reason why Fastwoman suggested an electronic flasher. They cost more, but they perform a lot better.

[Zs-ondabrain]

If you're gonna buy a flasher, buy the electronic one. much better than the original. As stated above, much better, NEW, less resistance to operate, etc, etc.

[Reverend]

Thanks to all! It was flasher relay that was broken. I bought a new one and it started working immediatetly, also faster. My Z is from California so there is basically zero rust and corrosion anywhere. When i look under the dash i can only wonder how all the wires and stuff has stayed in such good condition trough time. How is your amp gauge usually looking when driving, is it on center or little on the + side? Im just being paranoid with my alternator. Do you know where to get new alternator WITHOUT sending the old back?

[JohnnyO]

Under normal running conditions your amp meter should always be either on the center line or the plus side. How far to the + side depends on the output of your alternator and what electrical components you have running at the time and your voltage regulator.

Alternators should be available without sending in the core. You just pay an extra $30 or so. You could also choose to have yours rebuilt by a reputable electric motor repair shop. I think that service is around $40 U.S. in my area.