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Thread: Looking for a fuse block

  1. #1
    Registered User grannyknot's Avatar
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    Default Looking for a fuse block

    I want to add a fuse block to the engine bay to help remove some of the high current flowing to the stock fuse block and ignition switch. So far I've installed Dave Irwin's headlight upgrade harness and parking light harness. The new engine bay fuse block I would power the electric rad fan, fan controller, fuel pump and starter relay. I'm thinking about using this block, 100/30A LED Micro Blade Fuse Block | Princess Auto
    Can I assume that it can handle 100amps total and no more then 30amps on anyone circuit?
    Thanks,
    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

  2. #2
    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    Bluesea make nice marine grade fuse blocks for boats. they are easy to buy. Most marine shops stock or can order these:

    ST Blade - Blue Sea Systems
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  3. #3
    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    This one is similar to the one you posted and has the specs listed:

    ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits - Blue Sea Systems
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  4. #4
    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    Here are the specs for the PA one
    Blade Fuse Holders, w/LED Indicator
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  5. #5
    Rust Free'ish zKars's Avatar
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    The BlueSea stuff is theeeee best quality stuff I've ever seen.

    You know when you turn that big knurled volume knob on a $10,000 stereo amp and it gives you that feeling of quality and richness? Same with the BlueSea stuff. Fabulous.

    That said the PA box will just fine for what you want. Just put some cleaning maintenance on the spring/summer list of things to do every year.

    Now if you want water proof, and/or expandable and user configurable, get these

    http://www.rallylights.com/all/elect...se-blocks.html

    The two boxes on the bottom right. The 16 gang splash proof comes with all the individual pins for you to crimp up and configure as you want.

    AND, as if that's not enough, it's part of a system of snap together blocks. There is a 4-relay block that goes with this system too. Now we're talking DIY electrical and doing it right!

    http://www.rallylights.com/all/elect...lashproof.html
    Last edited by zKars; 01-29-2014 at 08:41 AM.
    -----------------------------------------
    Jim
    73 240Z HLS30 149331
    69 510 PL510 77603

    www.zKars.com
    www.calgaryzclub.ca
    Reference materials
    www.xenonS30.com

  6. #6
    Nova Scotia,Canada,Earth Blue's Avatar
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    or gut something from a current JY car
    There is scarcely anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse, and sell a little more cheaply.
    The person who buys on price alone is this man's lawful prey.


    John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)



    ZCars in Eastern Canada seaport ready for shipment to Europe

    http://ZSportCanada.com


  7. #7
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
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    I rewired my boat in 2005, using a Blue Sea block. We sold the boat a few years ago, and the block was still in like new condition. This is remarkable, considering the salt air and the really high humidity here. I think that part held up better than any other metal part I've installed on a boat (stainless?). If it can survive there, it should survive very well under the hood. I got mine at West Marine, BTW.

    That said, a 30A circuit might do better with a Maxi Fuse. Or you could always wire two 15A fuses in parallel. Use silicone dielectric grease on the contacts!

    BTW, I wouldn't trust the snap-on shield not to snap-off and fall onto the roadway at some time. Perhaps there's some way to secure it with screws. Or you could always just do without it.
    Last edited by FastWoman; 01-29-2014 at 12:25 PM.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  8. #8
    Registered User dawg7's Avatar
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    Here is a pic of the BLUESEA ST blade fuse block PN 5025. Six positive connections...three for the lights and signals; three for the stereo and amps.



    Click image for larger version. 

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    74 260Z RLS30-016515 12/73
    3.1 Stroker; Weber 40DCOE; 5 sp
    225/50/15 BFG gForce on Konig Rewinds

  9. #9
    Registered User grannyknot's Avatar
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    Thanks, some good suggestions.

    dawg7, that's exactly where I want to put mine, do you ever have any problem with it getting wet?

    fastwoman, any reason you would go with a Maxifuse over a regular or minifuse?

    Chris
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

  10. #10
    Registered User dawg7's Avatar
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    Being in Texas......not really worried about it. But I was thinking it being behind the shock tower and up on the wheel well that it would not get too much road splash. This picture shows where I put the relays. Right where the fuel vapor canister was located.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    74 260Z RLS30-016515 12/73
    3.1 Stroker; Weber 40DCOE; 5 sp
    225/50/15 BFG gForce on Konig Rewinds

  11. #11
    Registered User grannyknot's Avatar
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    SWEET engine bay! I think I just found my new desk top wallpaper.
    I'm going to put my relays in the same spot, I guess there is only a few places things like that will fit.
    Thanks
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

  12. #12
    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    Dawgs engine bay looks like mine - a lot !
    I put my relays in the same spot. I used a fuse block that is my Mikuni thread - from wiring products.com I think.
    80 amp with 6 fuses . I wired the power directly to the alternator .
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

  13. #13
    Registered User wal280z's Avatar
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    This is what I did -

    http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/e...ost301676.html

    No maintenance, no worries.

    The designed application is for 80A (each) circuits, so 100A total is not a problem.

    ZERO electrical gremlins since this upgrade.

    Look under subforum ebay/craigslist for a post submitted about "ROW52" to find donors for this application.

    Additonal pictures posted at hybridz.org, same user name.

    Wayne
    1977 280Z "Lucy" as of 4/05

  14. #14
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
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    Chris, I simply like big electrical contacts for high current. I wouldn't completely trust the contacts on a small fuse not to overheat when carrying 30A, even if the fuse is rated 30A. I'd anticipate the possibility of arcing, melted plastic, and other mischief. (Even our 1/4" glass fuses sometimes get pretty hot!) I would trust 20A, because I've seen enough 20A fuses of that size that I know they're OK That's just my gut feeling.

    To put it in household wiring terms, I just finished installing 150A electrical service to a workshop. The massive branch breaker that goes in the main panel occupies FOUR breaker slots, because TWO slots would be inadequate. As I look at the amount of metal making contact, I would say each slot has four times the metal one would find in one of those standard sized automotive fuse tabs. Not only that, but there's a special compression spring on each pre-greased contact! That would be 8x them metal overall for a 150A circuit. Divide 150 by 8, and you fall in the range of that 20A fuse I would trust.

    FAIW, I did once run a 30A fuse of that size. It had to go in a tiny space on the upper kick wall of my '66 Mustang, in the accessory block I rigged for my stereo system. When I had a VintageAire A/C system installed, the installer covered over the fuse block with a duct. (I wasn't happy about a few aspects of that installation.) To make a long story short, the contacts on that 30A fuse were really inadequate, and the circuit kept going out, requiring me to unfasten the duct, so that I could reseat the fuse. Very annoying. Now it wasn't a great fuse block -- not as nice as the Blue Sea -- but still the contact was inadequate at 30A.

    But like I say, running two 15A fuses in parallel would work fine. An overcurrent would blow both fuses. I think a single 20A fuse is also fine for that size of fuse, but 30A seems to me a bit much (even though I realize you can do it).
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  15. #15
    Registered User Mike W's Avatar
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    So before I ended up installing the Isis Intelligent Multiplex System in my Z (perhaps one of 2/3 Z owners on earth who have done this), I utilized a fuse block that I purchased from wiringproducts.com that was quite inexpensive yet did exactly what I needed in a very small space. You can find a link to the product here:

    6 Circuit Raised Ganged ATO/ATC Fuse Block - WiringProducts

    I used it for ignition, stereo amp, stereo sub, cooling fan, fuel pump and it worked fine. I built a small bracket that attached to the fusible link bracket which is where I mounted the fuse block. Worked really well, especially for $25. I must admit, had I known about the marine versions that were discussed earlier, I would have gone that route, but this made for a very easy install and provided the power distribution that I needed.

    I've included a couple of pictures of the wiring products fuse block as it was installed in my car at the time. I've also included a few shots of the Isis install, in case anyone is interested.

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  16. #16
    Registered User grannyknot's Avatar
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    So here is how it turned out,
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I still have to cleanup and wrap the main engine bay wiring harness. But I also used this down time to add
    4ga cables to the battery, alternator, starter, grounds and back to the amp.
    I found a new product at my favorite online electrical store, shrink wrap big enough to go around a relay,
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Although I wouldn't call it water proof, it's pretty close.
    1970 240Z HLS30 01955 March/70

  17. #17
    Registered User madkaw's Avatar
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    nice!
    Steve
    71 240z,bw-5sp 2.4-40 over,balanced,e-88,big valves,ported&polished, stage2,header, triple Mikuni's 40's
    3.90 Subaru STI LSD

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