This was posted in the Email list:

-- Group Message from Carl Beck --

At 6:28 PM -0700 5/27/2000, Chris Robson wrote:
>Well, My suggestion first is to pull the alternator, it may be on the fritz,
>and burning up the battery. Just take it to any auto parts store, they
>should be able to test it for free. Next if that checks out, also check
>all the battery connections, those may have a short somewhere, but my
>feeling is that won't be the problem. The other thing to check is the
>voltage regulator, it is right next to the alternator and is mounted on the
>wheel well. I don't know how you would go about checking one of these,
>(maybe there is how-to out there). But that could also be putting bad power
>into the battery causing it to crack.


Hi Jim / Chris (everyone):
If you have a good mechanic - or if you have a good Automotive Battery Shop
in your area - just take the car in and ask them to check the entire
charging system. (with the right equipment it shouldn't take them more
than a few minutes). They will check to see what the output is from the
Alternator, then from the regulator, and what the battery is accepting.
They will also put a load on the battery to see what it is putting out
under load. At that point you should have a good idea of what and where
the problem is.

Sounds like you are over-charging the battery, if a new battery is
outgasing/sulfating (sp?) ie. boiling over;-)...

As has been mentioned before on this list - seems that whenever a battery
goes bad - it takes the regulator with it - and overloads the Alternator..
So don't be supprised if you wind up replacing all three at the same time..
(or one right after the other)..

BTW - yes you want to neutralize the acid by useing Baking Soda and water -
but be sure to clean the Baking Soda with plenty of clear/clean water -
remember that Baking Soda is salt...

>As for batteries, maybe check out a solid battery as oppose to a lead-acid.
>They don't have acid in them, and only cost on average $20 bucks more then a
>good lead-acid.

Chris - I've never heard of a "solid" battary. Can you give me some more
information on this? (like Brand Name or Manufacture). I have had the Jell
Filled Batteries, but they have a jell that contains the acid and holds it
aginist the lead plates. Then too they seem to be alot more than $20.00
more than the standard Water/acid/lead type.. Last I looked they were
running close to $95.00 to $115.00 where a standard battery was in the
$45.00 to $55.00 range...

good luck,
Carl


>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-240z-club@peak.org [maimailto:Owner-240z-club@peak.org]On
>Behalf Of JFShamus117@aol.com
>Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 5:11 PM
>To: 240z-club@peak.org
>Subject: <240z-club> electrical woes
>
>
>-- Group Message from JFShamus117@aol.com --
>
>Gentleman,
> My first post so I hope I do this right
> It seems one of us is always having electrical problems and now its
>my turn.....I own a 5/71 prod. rust free, no mods, 240 with 46k. I was
>driving home from a Z club picnic the other day when my voltmeter jumped
>hard
>to the right. The meter itself has been stable the three months that I have
>owned the car. Lights dim a little when I stop at traffic lights but other
>than that all electrical components are running including the annoying door
>buzzer but with the exception of the clock (imagine that). All fuses look
>good but couldn't help but notice the high pitched scream coming from the
>engine bay when I accelerated. Amp gauge appeared to be normal at idle but
>as soon as I got on it the above symptoms occurred. Left in the garage for
>the week and decided to take a halfhearted look at it. I was ticked off to
>find battery acid eating away at my paint. A friend suggested baking soda
>to
>neutralize the acid and a thorough cleaning. When I first picked up the car
>I noticed a little battery acid leak and replaced it immediately, two months
>later I have the same problem. The only other symptom the car produces now
>is an intermittent signal noise when turn signal is used (the signal works
>but the sound emanating from the flasher mechanism is variable. So tomorrow
>I finally break down and purchase a multi-meter and learn how to use one
>along with a mechanical voltage regulator. Might be nice considering I have
>2z's (71,86T) a restoration project (series 1) and a parts car (73) Where do
>I start???? Your help is appreciated and many thanks in advance...
> Signed
> Electrical Amateur Jim Field
>