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Thread: oil pan reinstallation

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    Default oil pan reinstallation

    hey guys,

    I seem to have a leak coming from my oil pan so i have purchased a new oil pan gasket. My car sat in a warehouse for about four years and i cant seem to get my oil to stay clean either even after using motor flush so i'm guessing i have gunk on the bottom of the oil pan. As long as i tighten the bolts in a cross pattern, installation of the pan and gasket shouldn't be a big deal right? I was recently warned to be careful because i could warp the pan putting it back in if i dont torque it down right. How important are the specific torque specifications as long as i'm tightening in the cross pattern?

    thanks,
    brian

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    Hey Brian,

    Installation of the gasket is a piece of cake, as long as the motor is out of the car. If the motor is still in the car it is impossible to remove the pan. You can however unbolt the motor mounts and raise the engine some to get more clearance. Once you get the new gasket in place finger tighten all the bolts then torque from the center out, first on side then the other. I think the proper torque is about 5-8 lbs. You should re-torque them after about 500 miles.

    Your dirty oil could be several things depending on the condition of the engine.
    The 1973 240Z 165540 Slightly modified. L28, 5sp, cam, headers, MSD 6AL, power windows, power door locks, leather seats, custom this and custom that.

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    Registered User Phred's Avatar
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    Default Pan Torque

    Factory Service Manual Specs: 4.5 to 6.5 ft. lbs.
    I assemble these frequently and use a in. lb. torque wrench set at 72 in.lbs.
    Over torque can split the gasket at the bolt hole.
    Phred

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    beandip beandip's Avatar
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    one thing when you get the pan off check the gasket surface and see if there is any warpage. If the pan was tightend too tight this can cause the pan to warp with highs and lows along the gasket surface. You may need to flaten the sheet metal back out , so that the gasket will seal. Like what was already stated don't over torque the bolts . When you clean the pan , don't disturb any sludge or crud in the inside of the block. Trying to wype out the inside can loosen pieces and clogg oil passages when you refill and start the engine. Good to see you on the site Phred . Gary
    I'd rather die while I am living than live while I am dieing. CZC 1887 IZCC 12602 Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

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    Thanks guys,

    To be honest I didn't know I couldn't pull the oil pan off with engine fully in the car. It looked to be a tight squeeze yet possible. do oil pan gaskets go after time or are they usually fairly sturdy? could it be that my oil pan might already be warped causing this dripping of oil?

    thanks again
    brian

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    Z fever Fun_in_my_z's Avatar
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    Thats possible. I would pull the engine out and go through it. After it has been sitting that long it wouldnt hurt to put some new rings and gaskets in.
    Plus the new clutch wouldnt be that bad eather.

    Then while the engine is out. You could put a fresh coat of paint in the engine bay. Well now that you have a new coat under the hood you might as well give the whole body a fresh coat.

    See where im going?

    Projects get big. Take ur time and do it right so you dont have to do it again for a long time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by broken74
    Thanks guys,

    To be honest I didn't know I couldn't pull the oil pan off with engine fully in the car. It looked to be a tight squeeze yet possible. do oil pan gaskets go after time or are they usually fairly sturdy? could it be that my oil pan might already be warped causing this dripping of oil?

    thanks again
    brian

    It's the oil pick-up that gets in the way. That is the arm that reaches down into the bottom of the oil pan to pick-up the oil.

    All gaskets dry up after 30 or so years, It will also depend on the gasket material (cork, rubber, paper etc..).

    Yes, it is possible for the pan to be warped already with a combination of an old gasket.

    Becareful when you do pull the pan, like beandip mentioned you do not want to disturb any sludge or crud inside the engine. This stuff acts like little pieces of plastic and will clog oil passages, sieze pumps, burn bearings etc..

    Good luck.
    The 1973 240Z 165540 Slightly modified. L28, 5sp, cam, headers, MSD 6AL, power windows, power door locks, leather seats, custom this and custom that.

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    Registered User MikeW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed
    It's the oil pick-up that gets in the way. That is the arm that reaches down into the bottom of the oil pan to pick-up the oil.
    I must be dreaming. I distinctly remember doing a ring job on my car around 1986 and I surely had to pull the oil pan off to do that. I know that I didn't pull the engine from the car and I don't remember doing some other trick. What am I missing here?
    -Mike
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    Z fever Fun_in_my_z's Avatar
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    Your just talented
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    that is a good idea bill. and i would be game for that cept for the fact that i am in school. the rings and all that should be done. The previous owner had the engine built up n42 head, valve job, port n polish, schneider stage 3 race cam and such electronic ignition, no smog. He ended up sitting the car in his warehouse and letting it sit while he pulled stuff off it for his 240 which he raced. Also i am in school currently and short on money. Plan to do some interesting things in the seminear future though. Car runs fantastic but has some odd things about it. Its like a really hard running tough frankenstein car.

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