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Thread: Broken Head Bolt

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    Default Broken Head Bolt

    Looking for a good way to get this thing out without doing any more damage ive sprayed it it with oil - used vice grips - hammered it - and cant get it to move.
    Anybody got any good back yard solutions ?

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    Put a large nut over it and weld it on. The heat should free it up and the nut will let you get a good grip. That trick works everywhere else.

    Chuck
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    Chuck's method is great with the right tools, but if you dont have a welder here are some options Ive used.
    heat (via a torch) and cold (via duster upside down) to create a few thousandths of play before.
    heat the block cool the bolt, depending how far down you can get, and have the vice grips on it.
    if there is enough undamaged thread exposed get two nuts that fit and jam them together. then wrench!

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    Dry ice is another trick.

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    Trying to gt my hands on a welder as we speak trying not to buy one for limited use only im sure it will pay for itself
    over time but for now i just need to get this bolt out. thanks for your replies.

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    I had one broken on mine when I bought it. Head was rolling around my valve assembly. I took the cylinder head off and the bolt was sticking up about 6". Vise griped it. But you may not want to remove the head. It only takes a couple of hours and is cheaper than a welder. Threads are in the block only.
    Last edited by siteunseen; 06-22-2012 at 03:42 AM.

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    the head is off and there is enough of the bolt showing to vice grip but it wont turn and i don't want to strip it so while welding seems to be the way to go i don't have a welder or access to one unless i buy one ( Hard Times ) so until that happens im stuck i just thought someone might have a way that i haven't tried to get this thing out.

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    Spray it with PB Blaster or something good like that. Hit the top of the bolt with a hammer. Sometimes that will break the bond at the threads. Clamp your vice grips really tight and put a bar on the end for some leverage. Smack the bolt with the hammer while you try to turn the bolt. Keep hitting it with PB Blaster.

    Is the engine out of the car? Can you haul it to a welding shop to have a nut welded on? You'll be surprised how well that welding trick works!

    Chuck
    Last edited by cbuczesk; 06-22-2012 at 06:57 AM.
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    Either use a lot of heat and rust penetrant while using vice grips, or have a mobile welder come by and weld the nut on. Should cost you maybe $50-100.
    2/74 260Z

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    O.K. used Rust penetrant - Hit it - Drilled it - Heated it - Vice griped it.
    That bolt is stuck and the little bit of it that is still there is laughing at me.
    this would be funny if it wasn't me so i need to see it from an outsiders point of view. laughing at myself no big deal
    I will get back to this at a later date.

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    That's the thing to do, step back and think it over, you'll figure something out. It's almost been 8 months on mine from walking away. Hopefully it's not a car you have to drive. Uh I meant have to use daily. Of course you have to drive it, they hard to push.
    Last edited by siteunseen; 06-22-2012 at 11:46 AM.

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    Are the vice grips slipping or is it too tight to turn? Maybe try a pipe wrench. Keep hitting it with rust penetrant! I wouldn't drill it unless it breaks off flush with the block.

    Chuck
    East Coast Z Nationals held at the Carlisle Import & Kit Nationals - May 16-18, 2014 Carlisle, PA
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    Waiting might be the ticket, if you can. I had the same thing, with a rusty stub sticking out of the block, about two vice-grip jaws worth. Over about two days I heated it, sprayed it with PB Blaster, let it cool, gave it a few torques to test it, then heated and sprayed again. Eventually one of the "torques" started it moving. Mine was broken because of coolant leakage and rust. The rust will fill every crevice over the thousands of heat cycles it sees, so the penetrant takes quite a while to penetrate through that.

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    How are you going about heating it? I would try map gas (since it gets hotter than propane) near the threaded portion while putting constant torque on the bolt. As stated, give multiple raps to the top of the bolt while turning it.
    Last edited by tlorber; 06-22-2012 at 03:56 PM.

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    Are you using "vice grips" or Irwin Vice Grips? I have found that Craftsman and HF knock-offs are nearly useless.
    Jeff
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    Kroil is the best penetrating oil I've used. I find it to be much better than PB Blaster which is much better than anything else. I've also heard of mixing equal parts ATF and acetone, but have not tried this myself.
    Alternate heat and cold. Tap harder than you think you should on the bolt with a ball peen hammer while you attempt to turn with the vice grips. Sometimes using impacts (hammer to vicegrips) versus steady turning will break it free.
    Last edited by sam280z; 06-24-2012 at 07:23 PM.

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    Low budget dictates all options so i have a hole in the bolt half a can of PB worn out hammer useless vice grips broken easy outs and half a stick of dynamite. ( Last Option ) not laughing

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    Take it to a good machine shop.....they'll get it out......one way or another. You don't want to break it off flush. Sometimes we need to pay the guys that do it day in and day out. When they get it out they can clean all the threads out like new.
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    Quote Originally Posted by siteunseen View Post
    ...Of course you have to drive it, they hard to push.
    Now, that's funny.

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    If you do try to drill it using care you may want to try using a left hand drill bit and drill in reverse that way once the bit bites it may free up and unscrew. Anyhow keep soaking it.

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    I just put my new cylinder head on. I used anti-seize by permatex and turbo bolts. #9 wouldn't click my torque wrench @62lbs after almost positivley feeling the same as the other 13. I quit as I don't want to be in the same situation your in. Do people retorque after break in?

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    How to properly torque a bolt can raise a lot of discussion. I've read that anti-seize is not recommended on the threads of critical fasteners because it's too slippery and will result in higher than designed tension on the bolt. Bolts that turn without tightening are quite often in the process of breaking (think about the last rusty bolt you thought was coming out then it broke instead). I hope that's not your case. As for retorquing, I think that it depends on the gasket. Some are called out as "no retorque".

    Here's a description from an actual anti-seize manufacturer on torquing fasteners- http://www.saftlok.com/safteze/antiseiz/index.htm

    Another interesting page - http://www.mechanicsupport.com/bolt_torque.html

    Google brings up a bunch on just "anti-seize" and "torque".

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    Took the block to a mechanic $40.00 and it's done.
    pick it up tomorrow and and make this a bad memory i need to put this thing back together and get it running
    There was an upside to this whole thing there was a bad freeze plug in the back of the block that i wouldn't have found if not
    for the removal of the head so its all good. repairs under way

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    So, after all the investment and input here, can you elaborate on how the shop got the bolt out?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tlorber View Post
    So, after all the investment and input here, can you elaborate on how the shop got the bolt out?
    Please, so we all learn something.

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    $100 sez the mechanics didn't do anything that wasn't suggested here.

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    For $40.00, I would guess they put in a heli coil. I agree with the rest....we try to give advise, then don't learn the solution. Very frustrating.
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    Wade is right the mechanic didn't do anything.
    The block is back home situation unchanged i need to find another mechanic or shop.
    No big deal i might try to do it myself you never know what you can do or how well you can do it until you try
    The glass half full...

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    Quote Originally Posted by slowride View Post
    Wade is right the mechanic didn't do anything.
    The block is back home situation unchanged i need to find another mechanic or shop.
    No big deal i might try to do it myself you never know what you can do or how well you can do it until you try
    The glass half full...
    Do you mean he did not extract the bolt? can you post a picture?

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    That's what I'm saying he did not extract the bolt.
    I gave him two days and he kept saying he was soaking it and im not paying anybody to just look and spray oil on it.
    I cant post pictures im still learning this whole internet thing but i will let you guys know my next step

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    Don't pay for no result.

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    Quote Originally Posted by olzed View Post
    Don't pay for no result.
    I second that!
    Stuck and broken bolt are a pain in the butt. Still do not give up hope. they are a pain but not impossible to remove. Just do not cause more harm than good. I would stay away from "easy outs". If you you break one it become a "difficult out". I have never had a fastener I could not get out eventually. But if you are really that stuck take it to a machine shop instead of a mechanic. A good machinist will have it out in less time and will probably cost less.

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    That's what i was thinking i just need to do some searching around for a good shop i my area

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    Have you actually tried everything suggested here? Heat it with a torch for 20+ minutes, until the surrounding block is nice and toasty. Get the bolt cherry red if possible. Immediately apply dry ice to the bolt head, have several pounds of it ready. Then vice grips, or a pipe wrench if you can get one on it. After that, find a machinist to weld a nut to it...and do it again!

    I concur, I'd stay away from the EZ outs. If it's in that tight it's just going to break off the EZ out.

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    Ok, here's my last input on it- I swear. The last sheared bolt I took out I ground the top smooth, used a punch, and made a divot as close to the center as I could (this step is VERY important). I then took a 1/16" bit and drilled. I went in small increments with progressively larger bits until I got near the meat of the nut I was trying to clean out. I then ran a tap into the nut (block in your case). The tap took out the remaining shards of the bolt and I was able to get a new bolt in. If you do not center the punch/first drill bit properly, you run the risk of drilling into the block which you do not want to do.

    When you run a tap, you need to use a lubricant and keep going forward and backward to allow the removed material to drop out and not bind.

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    Find a friend or a friend of a friend with a MIG welder and weld on a nut. I would be shocked if he charged you more than $20.

    Chuck
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    Hello , a few years back reading on this forum i believe it was bonzi lon that wrote about homemade lube that is my go to always for really stuck fasteners and broken bolts . 50 % lacquer thinner to 50 % automatic tranny fluid . This is the hands down best i have ever used . our mechanics at work use this now for the toughest jobs . I spray and leave to soak for a few mins and then heat with a torch and then quench the stuck bolt one more time and then proceed to loosen . Works every time !
    good luck
    Chris
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    I think it's Acetone and ATF. That works great.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tlorber View Post
    Ok, here's my last input on it- I swear. The last sheared bolt I took out I ground the top smooth, used a punch, and made a divot as close to the center as I could (this step is VERY important). I then took a 1/16" bit and drilled. I went in small increments with progressively larger bits until I got near the meat of the nut I was trying to clean out. I then ran a tap into the nut (block in your case). The tap took out the remaining shards of the bolt and I was able to get a new bolt in. If you do not center the punch/first drill bit properly, you run the risk of drilling into the block which you do not want to do.

    When you run a tap, you need to use a lubricant and keep going forward and backward to allow the removed material to drop out and not bind.
    If you try the above start with using a left hand bit it may just back out.

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    yes acetone as well , zylene and a few others . the lacquer thinner is what i have been using .
    chris
    71-z , great for me , awesome for the parts store , hey I'm helping the local economy !

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    Yep, that was Grandpa's concoction of choice, and a few choice swear words.

    Bonzi Lon
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    My memory serves me well most days , it is the best concoction out there . It is what got my rear brake drums off the 71 after many attempts with any thing else i could spray in the back of the drum .
    Like I said our mechs use it on all our winter plows that have had 4 months of salt and sand abuse , everything comes loose easily !
    Z u all later
    Chris
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