Bar's stop leak....

[rcb280z]

Not sure what to think about this stuff. I put it in the radiator yesterday and ran the engine for 20 minutes like it says. After the engine cooled down I popped the rad cap and looked inside. I expected to see and even mix between the coolant and the additive but what I saw was like "globs" of the additive floating by. The first thing I thought was Is it possible that some of these "globs" are going to plug a passage or am I just being paranoid? Anyone else experience this? Just something else for me to worry about with this car.

[Jarvo2]

I've used these products in the past. It seems like its hit or miss, and I probably would not use it again. I have had it congeal in the radiator in my Wrangler & it became an even bigger mess when I went to replace the head gasket. If the car is something you're going to keep for a long time, it'll be worth planning for replacing the head gasket/radiator and flushing the entire system. The longer this goop sits in the engine, the more likely it'll get stuck in the cracks & crevasses.

[cbuczesk]

A couple weeks ago the aluminum radiator in my race car developed a leak so small that it was just a bit of steam. There was no "leak" and nothing dripped. My friend had good luck in his Z with Bar's Leak and suggested that I try it. I followed the driections and it worked at first. I started it up again to set timing and adjust the carbs. 5 minutes later it was dripping out somewhere in the center of core and going onto the floor. I can't say if it's good or bad. It worked for Jeff but not for me. It's been around a long time so I'd take that as a good sign.

Chuck

[Zed Head]

The Bar's material stays in gooey blob form. It just travels around, occasionally getting sucked in to a leak area, hopefully sealing it. Leak solutions are messy looking, just like the leaks. Most of them also contain lubricants for the water pump seals also. Not meant to be observed, just sealed in and left to work.

[rcb280z]

Thanks Zed. I will check after a couple of days to see if the leak has stopped. Gooey blob form describes it perfectly. Guess I was more curious of what I would find when removing the rad cap.

Now I also have to replace the pan gasket, and front crank seal. Guess when it rains it pours. What I get for not driving it more often I assume. Maybe 1-2 times a week.

Chuck, I'm just going to hope for the best. I need it to hold til later this year when I can then remove the head and replace the gasket.

[TomoHawk]

I used some Bar's Leaks I my car a couple years ago when there was a small leak down low (from a rock?) It sealed up and I did some long trips since then and even a few runs down the drag strip. I noticed that it first discolored the coolant from yellow to tan/brown, and instead of a fine powder, it was little tiny blobs, but it has since cleared up.

I haven't had any cooling problems, AFAICT, and the engine goes just as it did before the leak. the only difference is that there is now a lower grille to keep the rocks and stuff out of the lower radiator area. I even found a paper napkin there once!

[rcb280z]

Good info, Thanks TomoHawk.

[26th-Z]

I used Bar's Stop-Leak all the time when I had and raced British Cars. Came in handy on road trips! It's a real good temporary fix and should work real well in an 'L' engine. If it doesn't, the leak needs to be repaired properly. Always flush the cooling system when you make repairs.

[Wwildman]

As a master auto technician. If you have a leak and need to get home to repair it I use Alumaseal powdered stop leak. In 40 + year old cooling systems you can create more problems then fix with bars leak. I had a 70 Chevy that was so bad I had to get the block hot tanked and cleaned , then replace the water pump, radiator heater core and alll the hoses. My 78 was so bad the radiator weighed 27 pounds

[rcb280z]

I used the alumaseal liquid and Im not convinced the leak has stopped. In about a week from now Im hopping the leak will be sealed. The car sits most of the time but will see the road everyday for the next couple of months. Thanks W. Appreciate the info. My cooling system in great shape otherwise. Just a small seepage from around the head gasket.

[rcb280z]

So everything seems to be good with the leak I used to have. Hope I don't jinx myself. I used the alumaseal and it seems to be working. I can actually see where the aluminum powder seeped out where the leak was and now looks and feels dry. I didn't think it would work. Glad it did. Will probably be pulling engine towards end of year so hope it lasts til then. It is a daily driver now.

[TomoHawk]

I have used my car for two years after sealing a small leak with Bars Leaks. I think it has about 5,000 miles on the repair with most of it being highway or high speed driving.

[rcb280z]

That's what I like to hear Tomo.

[rcb280z]

So all is good, I thought. Drove the Z around then parked her in the garage and when I came back out a couple hrs later there was a softball sized puddle on the garage floor right under the radiator. My heart sank! I don't need this I thought to myself. Popped the hood and saw coolant on top of the radiator around the fill neck. Checked the cap and it was tight. Pressure tested the cap and it held (didn't take it beyond 15lbs). It is rated at 13lbs. Snooped around and couldn't find the source. Even made sure the overflow line was tight at the fill neck. Then I decided to remove the overflow line and blow through it. Well it was plugged! Guess what with? Yep, Bar's! Now I'm worried. What else is it going to plug up I wounder. I will probably think about it every time I drive it. I will try my best to stay optimistic though.

[TomoHawk]

The Bar's Leaks did it's job- stopping up the hole...

[Zed Head]

Then I decided to remove the overflow line and blow through it. Well it was plugged! Guess what with? Yep, Bar's!

I had the same issue for a little while. Leakage around the radiator cap. You solved yours faster than I solved mine. The hole in the cap of the overflow bottle is tiny, much smaller than it would seem necessary. I reamed mine out a little with a drill bit. Later (recently) I bought one of those pressure-releasing radiator caps so that I can test the system with a short pressure blow-off, along with being ready for any quick repair work. Bubbles in the overflow bottle means everything works. One way at least.

[Stanley]

JB Weld can work if the leak is accessible. Got a leak (Chevy truck) on a July trip to a remote desert area near Tucson about 12 years ago. Drained and saved the coolant, put some JB Weld on the leak. Surface prep is important. It survived the trip back in 115 F weather and is still OK.

Found the Z's intake manifold heater tube completely plugged with the PO's stop leak. Had overheating problems until I installed a new radiator, it was probably somewhat plugged. Before putting in a new radiator, flushed the engine 3 times.

[scotts pearl]

gm at one time used bars leak or something like it to help seal coolant from factory.. i have used before with no problems.. used in my 2004 jag because i could not find were coolant was leaking... no leak since... jag only has 30000 miles i would not use in old partially clogged radiator.. just my 2 cents

[rcb280z]

Everything seems good today. I am relaxing a bit now. No leaks after 2 trips in her. Fingers crossed.