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Thread: Any tips for exhaust tube nuts removable from exhaust manifold?

  1. #1
    '75 280z tamo3's Avatar
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    Default Any tips for exhaust tube nuts removable from exhaust manifold?

    Hi,

    I'm about swapping transmission on my '75 280z. In order to drop current tranny, I need to remove exhaust tube.

    I try to unbolt the nuts from the exhaust manifold and exhaust tube, I could've removed only one nut, but other two nuts are hard to reach with 1/2 ratchet wrench with extension from bottom of the car.

    FSM does not have any good explanation.
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    Does anyone have good tips or tool to remove those nuts?

    Thanks,
    tamo3
    '75/280z

  2. #2
    Registered User siteunseen's Avatar
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    Could you use a smaller 3/8" drive and extension? maybe unbolt it from mount to tranny to give you more wiggle room?
    1972 240Z #918 New Sight Orange
    1977 280Z #305 Light Blue Metallic
    1972 240Z #110 Persimmons Red

  3. #3
    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    Hi tamo,

    I had similar problems with mine when I removed my gearbox. I ended up buying a 17mm 3/8" drive deep socket and spaying the threads with tranny oil/acetone mix. It still wouldnt budge so I used the oxy/acetylene to heat the nuts to a dull red glow and then using the socket while they were still hot. Use gloves and dont grab the socket after doing, its hot.
    Goodluck
    Chas

    Northern Industrial 17mm Deep Socket - 3/8in. Drive - Amazon.com
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    I worked in a shop which did a fair amount of muffler work.

    In general one can expect ALL exhaust studs / bolts to strip or break when you try to remove them. They've seen too much heat, too much corrosion, too much road grime and salt.

    You're very unlikely to get them to unthread with a socket wrench. All you'll do is frustrate yourself

    Spray 'em with PB blaster or similar and wait thirty minutes... Or you can torch 'em, or you can spray freeze 'em, ...

    Working in a shop we'd use an 1/2" impact wrench which will either forcibly unthread them or break the stud off. You may need a wobble, but be sure an use an IMPACT wobble and not one designed for a hand wrench.

    I STRONGLY suggest you spend your time drilling out the remains of the stud and replacing it with a bolt and nut instead of wasting 2-3 hours wishing and hoping an exhaust bolt, ANY exhaust bolt will magically unthread without stripping or breaking.

  5. #5
    Registered User Oiluj's Avatar
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    I can vouch that a 3/8" drive with a 12" extension fits in just fine to remove the exhaust nuts with-out much angle or binding.
    Echoing what was said, penetrating oil and a little heat helps as well. Got them warm, then sprayed the nuts with PB Blaster after work. Next morning they came off reasonably easily.
    Julio
    1972 240Z (in-progress, 95% complete)
    CZC# 15388

  6. #6
    '75 280z tamo3's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks guys for your tips.
    I really appreciate your input.



    I could've removed 2 nuts out of 3 without problem. Just one of the nut is is really hard to reach due to the steering lower joint assembly and frame prevent me to use the tool. Especially, my socket barely fit to the location. longer 1/2 socket does not fit, shorter 3/8 socket is too short and prevent wrench to snap in.
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    Here is my regular daily tool. My favorite HFT 1/2 socket and 3/8 socket is same size of diameter. I think I need to look for smaller diameter socket to fit the limited space.
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    By the way, what brand of socket do you use? Craftman? Any recommendation?

    Thanks,
    tamo3
    '75/280z

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    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    Hi tamo,

    I used a 3/8" drive 17mm (single hex, 6 sided) deep socket with a uni-joint to get enough deflection.
    I could not use the impact type socket. They are too thick to get the last nut.
    See my link in post #3 for an example.
    Chas
    Chas
    5/77 280Z HLS30 403100 with some modifications
    Original colour: 305 Light Blue. The PO changed it to Red

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    Registered User beermanpete's Avatar
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    The tools you have are too large (wall tickness). You need a hand-drive 3/8" drive deep socket and a long extension to get the ratchet down under all the stuff in your way. Use a wobble extension if necessary. Avoid flex sockets and universal joints if possible. I prefer Snap-On but Mac, Proto, and Craftsman are good also. The main thing is to get a socket with a thinner wall than the impact socket you are using. The more expensive name brand tools typically are made from stronger materials and have a thinner wall and good strength.

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    Registered User Oiluj's Avatar
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    Yep. Craftsman 3/8" drive deep socket on a 10"-12" extension does it.
    Julio
    1972 240Z (in-progress, 95% complete)
    CZC# 15388

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    be sure to use P.B blaster or some type of penetrating oil. if you snap it you will have to drill it out and use a nut and bolt. also you could try ratcheting wrench or a swivel socket.

  11. #11
    '75 280z tamo3's Avatar
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    Thanks guys for your advice.
    I bought Crafstman deep socket and HFT colorful socket.
    10 Piece 3/8" Drive Metric Deep Wall Color Coded Socket Set
    Since the diameter of HFT and craftsman are same but the price is 1/3, I just use HFT socket.
    Even though this socket, the space is still tight, but I've successfully remove the last nut with PB Baster penetration!

    Thanks so much!!!

    After removing exhaust, I want to remove drive shaft nuts from diff in order to drop transmission.
    In order to remove the nuts, I need to remove diff mount, rear anti-sway bar. Having hard time to remove diff mount, but using short socket for the upper nuts, I could've take the nuts off.

    That's the progress for tonight.

    Thanks,
    tamo3
    '75/280z

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