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Thread: Can someone help identify?...

  1. #1
    Registered User Willoughby Z's Avatar
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    Default Can someone help identify?...

    I am trying to identify what appears to be a missing component. I have been searching previous threads/posts and every photo, even the FSM. I have spent a great deal of time over the last two months reading everything to learn as much as I could to resolve several vacuum related issues (heater, mostly) and have been succesful thus far. I thank everyone who has contributed so much info- links, articles and documentation. I am willing to admit I may be overlooking something but I'm asking for assistance.
    There is a connecter (not connected) and what appears to be a block-off plate (diamond shaped) located on the intake. I am assuming that the connector would be related to a device that has been removed by a PO. The engine and all systems seem to operating well with the exception that I do have to "tickle" the accelerator to start the engine, albeit briefly, but not what I have experienced with most EFI. Is it perhaps the Cold Start Valve? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Kris
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  2. #2
    Registered User 78zcar_blue's Avatar
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    I don't see the Air Regulator that is what appears to be missing from what I can tell

  3. #3
    Low Budget/High Value
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    It looks like your Auxiliary Air Regulator is missing. It would normally be mounted where the two screws are on top of the plate with the water lines running to it. It has battery power connected through that loose plug. Does the car take a while to warm up once it starts? Runs at low idle speed, gradually increasing as it gets warm?

    The diamond-shaped blocking plate is covering the port for the Air Regulator hose. There should be another hose, maybe connected to the hose to the valve cover, that might be blocked off, although some years used a T-fitting.

    Your CSV is in the picture on the left, with the fuel line connected to it and an electrical connection.

    The Air Regulator costs about $100 so maybe the PO decided to do without. It is convenient though to allow you to drive the car while the engine is cold, it keeps the idle up until the engine is warm.

    Edit - 78zcar beat me while I went to the garage...

  4. #4
    Registered User mgood's Avatar
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    This is of my 76, looks like a couple of things missing. Not sure if your 77 is the same.
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    Michael 11/75 - 76-280 - HLS30-281,114
    Web site -Click Here and ORIGINAL OWNERS OF THE 280Z (1975-1976 -1977 - 1978 - ONLY) REGISTRATION[

  5. #5
    Z geek at large FastWoman's Avatar
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    A '78 is closer than a '76 to a '77 configuration. Here's a pic of my '78. The engine is stock, aside from blue and black paint and a pipe, rather than hose, leading from the valve cover to the throttle body.



    Where you have a plate on top of the throttle body, there should be a nipple where a hose connects, leading to the air regulator.
    My last three sports cars while I still owned all three:

    2001 BMW Z3 Roadster 3.0i soft/hard top (sold)
    1966 Ford Mustang Coupe (sold)
    1978 Datsun 280Z (enjoying very much )

  6. #6
    Registered User Willoughby Z's Avatar
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    78zcar blue
    Zed head
    mgood
    Fast Woman
    Thanks to all who replied... It wasn't 'til I looked at the photo(mine) that I realized my CSV is there in the photo After posting I was reviewing microfiche and decided that it might be the AAR. Sometimes saying something "out loud" , you find the answer, which is what all of you have confirmed. Now it's back to the books to figure out my buy list and routing,etc. And yes, Zed, it does take awhile to warm up. The idle RPM change is not drastic (500?) but there is a change. Thanks 78 for the fleet feet And Fast Woman, what can I say but "now that's a purty motor"... Sweet! Something to aspire to! On another note, I fixed my vacuum/mode door/heat problem today! All of the info from the site contributed to the solution. Two tubing splits (underneath "magnet" valves bracket) were repaired, it was that simple... And one last thing?, a rough running / missing which appeared yesterday on start-up was resolved by using contact cleaner on all injector connectors. I used the screwdriver/stethscope method to discern that #2 and 3 were not "firing", found corrosion, cleaned them... eureka! Spent most of the afternoon cleaning every connector/connection/ground I could find. Not a method I invented. Something I learned here. You all rock!!! Thank you.

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