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Thread: Need Help Installing Outter Hatch Seal

  1. #1
    Registered User texasz's Avatar
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    Default Need Help Installing Outter Hatch Seal

    I was looking at this last night and realized that I may have to remove the hatch from the hinges to get it installed properly. Is this correct!? I'd rather not have to unless it is necessary to do the job right.

    Has anyone done this without removing the hatch? If so do you have any tips/tricks to getting the seal behind the hinge and seated properly?

    As a side note question, am I correct in assuming that I must install the seal using that tube of sealant/adhesive that came with my rubber seal kit?
    '70 240Z - HLS30-08215 - Production Date 8/70
    '70 240Z - HLS30-06293 - Rusty and has Identity Crisis (must have been wrecked and the back 1/2 sectioned in from a later car maybe even a 280Z)...PARTS CAR!
    '71 240Z - HLS30-018482 - Production Date 1/71,Corvette Yellow, driven under a 4Runner, bought for parts, hit lotto with parts on car, may fix and put back on road

    My Photo Gallery

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    Supporting Member ChrisA's Avatar
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    Default

    Hi Allan, I took my hatch off and cleaned out the pockets. Its a two person job. I tried it by myself and was surprised how heavy the hatch is. I didnt use the adhesive that came with my seal. Every Z person I've ever talked to said to use the black Permatex or 3M weatherstip adhesive and follow the directions on the tube carefully. I also learned you must lightly sand the new seal to remove the mold release that is on the rubber. The glue wont stick if you dont. The area around the hinges does prove to be the most difficult to seal right. I still have the occasional drip when I wash the car. Lastly, take your time as this is a tedious undertaking. Much luck.
    1973 240Z HLS30-156693

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    Registered User landmizzle's Avatar
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    Default

    Hi Texasz,

    When I did the outer hatch strip on my '71, I did not have to remove the hatch.

    I would reccomend that you trial fit the weather strip first to see how it will lie. I agree with the previous reply that you want to make sure the all places of contact between the rubber and metal are very clean and free of old weather striping and glue.

    I used the black version of 3M's weather stripping adhesive. What I did was actually start the process at a hinge point. Apply adhesive to both the rubber and the metal and allow to get tacky before bonding together. Do small sections at a time especially around the hinge area and corners ( maybe 4' or 5' inches in the cramped areas.). You can do longer sections in the straight areas but, still don't get carried away and try too much. Doing it in sections will take a little longer but it's much cleaner and easier to deal with. Additionally, if you need to make adjustments, you'll have an easier time at it. After I completed one hinge area, I work my away across the top of the hatch to the other hinge. Once both hinges and the area between them is completed, work out towards the corners and then the final stretch on the straight areas going to the rear of the car.

    Once you've completed the process, let the adhesive dry at least overnight before closing the hatch. This will prevent the weather stripping around the hinges from creeping over the lip it's attached to. Allowing the adhesive to dry completely, will help assure the weather stipping lies flat.

    Hope this helps!


    Best Regards,

    Landmizzle '72 240Z

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    Supporting Member ChrisA's Avatar
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    I agree with Steve's post. I took my hatch off because I wanted to clean the gunk out of the hinge pockets. But I could have done the seal without removing the hatch. I did small sections of the seal also as it made it more manageable. I checked and I also used the 3M black adhesive. Much luck.
    1973 240Z HLS30-156693

  5. #5
    Registered User texasz's Avatar
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    Ok, so removing the hatch is easy enough. How hard is it to put back on? I'm thinking of the re-alignment mainly. Is there an easy way to go about this or not really?
    '70 240Z - HLS30-08215 - Production Date 8/70
    '70 240Z - HLS30-06293 - Rusty and has Identity Crisis (must have been wrecked and the back 1/2 sectioned in from a later car maybe even a 280Z)...PARTS CAR!
    '71 240Z - HLS30-018482 - Production Date 1/71,Corvette Yellow, driven under a 4Runner, bought for parts, hit lotto with parts on car, may fix and put back on road

    My Photo Gallery

  6. #6
    Supporting Member ChrisA's Avatar
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    I marked around the bolts on the hinges with a marker before I took the hatch off. After the new seal went on the hatch closed harder due to a less smashed seal. Basically you want to have a good transition between the roof metal and the hatch metal. Look across the seam after you put it back on, you'll see if the hatch is high or low.
    1973 240Z HLS30-156693

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    Registered User texasz's Avatar
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    Default

    I also forgot to ask if you remove the hatch from the hinges or the hinges from the chassis?
    '70 240Z - HLS30-08215 - Production Date 8/70
    '70 240Z - HLS30-06293 - Rusty and has Identity Crisis (must have been wrecked and the back 1/2 sectioned in from a later car maybe even a 280Z)...PARTS CAR!
    '71 240Z - HLS30-018482 - Production Date 1/71,Corvette Yellow, driven under a 4Runner, bought for parts, hit lotto with parts on car, may fix and put back on road

    My Photo Gallery

  8. #8
    Registered User texasz's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    Ok, I pulled the hatch and did the otter hatch seal. MUCH easier with the hatch off!!

    My question now is that while I am at this I decided to pull the inner hatch seal also and replace it. The problem is that the inner seal was glued on and much of it did not peal off so now I'm faced with trying to find a way to remove the remaining pieces. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for this? I really MUST have this completed today so that it can dry overnight and I can reassemble the hatch tomorrow.
    '70 240Z - HLS30-08215 - Production Date 8/70
    '70 240Z - HLS30-06293 - Rusty and has Identity Crisis (must have been wrecked and the back 1/2 sectioned in from a later car maybe even a 280Z)...PARTS CAR!
    '71 240Z - HLS30-018482 - Production Date 1/71,Corvette Yellow, driven under a 4Runner, bought for parts, hit lotto with parts on car, may fix and put back on road

    My Photo Gallery

  9. #9
    Registered User landmizzle's Avatar
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    Hi Texasz,

    I'm assuming you're using 3M's adhesive release, if you're not go get some. For the really stubborn stuff you'll want to let the release agent really soak for awhile. Even so, sometimes you still need a little persuasion to get the stuff off. What I do in that case is get some hard wood scrapers I've made to remove the stubborn adhesive and weather stipping.
    My scrappers are made of 1"x1" mahogeny wood that are about 5" long with 45 degree cut on one end. These really get in there and assist with removing the adhesive without "jacking up" the paint. In addition you can cut a grove in the scrapper that's barely wider then the metal lip the weather strip attaches to, to ease the removal of the adhesive.
    Works great for me. Hope this helps.


    Best Regards,

    Landmissle '72 240Z

  10. #10
    Registered User alien-e's Avatar
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    Probably too late to mention now, but you won't have to re-align the hatch if you just take out the screws that attached the hinge to the hatch. You don't have to touch the bolts that attach the hinge to the body of the car.
    Alien-E : 1973 240Z

  11. #11
    Registered User texasz's Avatar
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    Originally posted by alien-e
    Probably too late to mention now, but you won't have to re-align the hatch if you just take out the screws that attached the hinge to the hatch. You don't have to touch the bolts that attach the hinge to the body of the car.
    Yes, I figured this out and it made life MUCH easier than having to re-align the hatch.

    I have not got the inner seal replace and re-attached the hatch. While I was at all this I also replace one of the hatch vents that seemed to be leaking.

    One small part of the over-all project done!

    Thank you all for the help.
    '70 240Z - HLS30-08215 - Production Date 8/70
    '70 240Z - HLS30-06293 - Rusty and has Identity Crisis (must have been wrecked and the back 1/2 sectioned in from a later car maybe even a 280Z)...PARTS CAR!
    '71 240Z - HLS30-018482 - Production Date 1/71,Corvette Yellow, driven under a 4Runner, bought for parts, hit lotto with parts on car, may fix and put back on road

    My Photo Gallery

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