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  1. #1
    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Default What is the most common cause...

    ...for the tach not working?

    I have just resurrected my car after 12 years of sitting. In fact, I just got her registered yesterday and cannot wait to take her out again when it's not raining.

    All of the guages work well (I haven't really checked the clock) but the tach doesn't do a thing. I am thinking that maybe a connection is loose, or not attached, when I got the thing there were a LOT of disconnected looms.

    Any/all comments/help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
    Mat
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    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    It is my understanding that if the tach on a 240Z was unplugged that the engine won't run. So it's probably not something as simple as the tach being unplugged.

    What ignition do you have in the car?
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    Mat:
    From your signature, I figure we're talking about your 71, and Arne is right on with the tach/ignition connection. If your tach isn't IN the circuit, the engine won't run.....EXCEPT..... you CAN hook it up backwards. In that case the engine will run, but the tach won't work.

    Have you done ANYTHING to the distributor / resistor / coil connections at the front of the car? What about upgrading the car to the electronic distributor from the ZX?

    You don't mention IF the car runs at all. You just say you resurrected it. Does the tach do ANYTHING? What about small spikes when you're starting, or while the engine is running (if it's running)? Anyone of those would help diagnose and suggest.

    In the meantime, I'll stick with the old standby: "Check all the connections you did or may have disconnected."

    Enrique

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    Man, I thought I was being thurough in my explanation, you guys are good with bringing up questions.

    You are correct, it is my 71, and it IS running, and yes, I have changed the original dizzy with the ZX and the e12-80 module. See, I am such a newbie that I wasn't aware that the tach and dizzy were related. I thought the tach was like the speedo with a sensor at the crank, or something...

    Now that you have asked me those Qs, there is a loose wire from the loom with the wires that attach to the coil that comes from the passenger side...

    [edit] no, I haven't noticed any spikes or play with the tach's needle at all
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    If there is an extra black wire near the coil that isn't connected to anything, it should connect to the negative terminal of the coil.

    The picture below is on Bryan Little's site:

    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arne
    If there is an extra black wire near the coil that isn't connected to anything, it should connect to the negative terminal of the coil.
    Arne, did you know your reputation, to me, has been increasing with leaps and bounds since I have been lurking on this site?

    You are now nearing Z GOD-like status!

    Thanks, I will try connecting that wire when I get home from work.
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mat M
    You are now nearing Z GOD-like status!
    Now if only my Z God status could enable me to materialize new parts....
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arne
    Now if only my Z God status could enable me to materialize new parts....
    Hey, I got a BUNCH of recylced parts, what are you looking for?
    Mat
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    01/71 HLS30-19724 original 918, 4 speed, ready for the 5 spd swap, and R200 diff from the '81ZX
    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    It's not so much that parts are hard to find (for the most part they're not), but that the money to buy them with is in short supply!
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arne
    It's not so much that parts are hard to find (for the most part they're not), but that the money to buy them with is in short supply!

    I am with you. I find that I have to sell parts that I don't need at the moment in order to afford the ones I do!
    Mat
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    01/71 HLS30-19724 original 918, 4 speed, ready for the 5 spd swap, and R200 diff from the '81ZX
    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    Arne: The diagram you posted will only work IF he has a later style Tachometer and not the earlier style.

    I'll have a longer reply for the Early Tach (Loop Circuitry) vs the single wire Tach, Later Style (Inductive Circuitry) in a bit, just wrapping it up.

    Enrique

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    Quote Originally Posted by EScanlon
    Arne: The diagram you posted will only work IF he has a later style Tachometer and not the earlier style.
    Far be it from me to disagree, but I'm pretty certain that the above diagram is how I did mine, with the original tach. Works fine, as far as I can tell. I'll have to wait until the weekend to verify, however.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
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    OK, now what?

    I will still try to connect the hanging wire. I do not know if the previous 2 owners did any guage swapping. I know the PO tried to make an ignition ECU that was completely FU'd, as well as 2" tailpipes and header. hmmm.
    Mat
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    01/71 HLS30-19724 original 918, 4 speed, ready for the 5 spd swap, and R200 diff from the '81ZX
    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mat M
    ...snip...I have changed the original dizzy with the ZX and the e12-80 module....snip.... I thought the tach was like the speedo with a sensor at the crank, or something...

    Now that you have asked me those Qs, there is a loose wire from the loom with the wires that attach to the coil that comes from the passenger side...

    [edit] no, I haven't noticed any spikes or play with the tach's needle at all
    The Z's tach and wiring are just one of the wonderful anomalies you'll discover.

    Arne's diagram is correct. However, what the diagram does NOT show, is that you MUST have the Green/White and Black/White wire that originally went to the resistor connected to each other. If that is NOT the case, then you'll end up with "extra" wires and a non-op tach.

    With a non-op Tach and a SINGLE loose wire near the coil, that USUALLY means that you have TWO wires connected to the (+) terminal of the coil. This is true whether you have the electric dizzy or points.

    If so, and one is a B/W and the other is a G/W, AND the loose wire is B/W then simply disconnect the G/W wire from the Positive terminal of the Coil and connect it to the B/W wire that's loose. That will complete the circuit on "RUN" through the Tach as it should be. The tach should now operate. If it does not, try swapping out the two B/W wires.

    There should two wires to the (+) terminal of the coil and that should be a B/W wire (the return from the Tach) and the wire from the B terminal of the dizzy module.

    If the LOOSE wire is Green with a White Stripe? And the two wires connected to the (+) terminal of the coil are BOTH Black/White, then you have to figure out which B/W is which for the circuit to the tach. This hook-up is entirely possible, the car will run but you've completely eliminated the tach from the circuitry...in the RUN mode, it will be operational ONLY during START.

    This is more troublesome as it can cause problems if you hook up the wrong B/W to the Green/White wire. Hook it up ONE way and you'll have spark to the plugs ONLY when you crank, and the other way only when the key is in RUN.

    I just checked MY wiring, but unfortunately it's all taped up because the P.O. had done such a "mahvelous" job of cross connecting wiring. (MY tach was non-op when I bought the car, which is why I'm personally familiar with this problem.) I did do continuity checks through the wiring from the module to the coil and tach with the ignition in RUN, not in START as I did not want to disconnect more wiring to keep the engine from starting. (Hard to do continuity checks with other electrical pulses going through the system.

    But check it out and let us know what you find.


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    Quote Originally Posted by EScanlon
    The Z's tach and wiring are just one of the wonderful anomalies you'll discover.

    Arne's diagram is correct. However, what the diagram does NOT show, is that you MUST have the Green/White and Black/White wire that originally went to the resistor connected to each other. If that is NOT the case, then you'll end up with "extra" wires and a non-op tach.

    With a non-op Tach and a SINGLE loose wire near the coil, that USUALLY means that you have TWO wires connected to the (+) terminal of the coil. This is true whether you have the electric dizzy or points.

    If so, and one is a B/W and the other is a G/W, AND the loose wire is B/W then simply disconnect the G/W wire from the Positive terminal of the Coil and connect it to the B/W wire that's loose. That will complete the circuit on "RUN" through the Tach as it should be. The tach should now operate. If it does not, try swapping out the two B/W wires.

    There should two wires to the (+) terminal of the coil and that should be a B/W wire (the return from the Tach) and the wire from the B terminal of the dizzy module.

    If the LOOSE wire is Green with a White Stripe? And the two wires connected to the (+) terminal of the coil are BOTH Black/White, then you have to figure out which B/W is which for the circuit to the tach. This hook-up is entirely possible, the car will run but you've completely eliminated the tach from the circuitry...in the RUN mode, it will be operational ONLY during START.

    This is more troublesome as it can cause problems if you hook up the wrong B/W to the Green/White wire. Hook it up ONE way and you'll have spark to the plugs ONLY when you crank, and the other way only when the key is in RUN.
    ...snip...

    But check it out and let us know what you find.

    EScanlon...Now YOU are a Z GOD, too!

    I had a look this evening, last night I couldn't get to her. It was a G/W wire that was loose, and there were two B/W wires on the + side of the coil! While I had the car running I disconnected one of the B/W wires, and nothing happened, I replaced that one, and disconnected the other B/W wire, and the car died. So, I am ciphering that the B/W that had no effect would be the one to connect to the G/W.

    I am going out to try this remedy RIGHT NOW!

    Thanks, BTW. You are Arne kick A$$!
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Still NO GO. I connected the benign B/W wire to the G/W wire to no avail.

    The lights on the tach work, still. I guess that's a good sign. But now, it seems there is a ZZZZZZZ sound coming from the engine bay when the throttle is hit from idle. ALL the lights, including the headligts get real bright for about half a second during this ZZZZZZZ sound, and then all goes back to normal when the sound dissapears.

    This tach seems to be stock, yellow line is at 6500 RPM, red at 7K.

    I wish I had paid attention in electronics class. I lost my mind when they started talking about opamps and such...

    I am at a loss...
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mat M
    ...snip...While I had the car running I disconnected one of the B/W wires, and nothing happened, I replaced that one, and disconnected the other B/W wire, and the car died. So, I am ciphering that the B/W that had no effect would be the one to connect to the G/W.
    ...snip...
    The "no effect" B/W is the one that goes to the coil in all cases, the one that killed the engine IS the one to connect to the G/W now that the resistor is gone. That's the initial power source for the resistor and then the tach.

    As you have it now, the tach should be exhibiting "spikes" while starting the car.

    Trust me on this, if you want a better understanding then continue reading.

    When the engine is RUNNING (+) power from the battery goes through the fuse box and then to the ignition switch (via a W/R wire). From there it gets sent to the Resistor (via B/W wire #1) which then returns it to the Tach (G/W wire), the Tach then sends it to the Coil (B/W wire #2) and the system is energized and you can have spark at the plugs.

    When the engine is being STARTED (i.e. the starter is engaged and running) the (+) power from the battery also goes through the fuse box, to the ignition switch (W/R). Here there is a "detour", the (+) is now sent DIRECTLY to the tach (G/W wire that receives the return power from the resistor), and from there to the coil (B/W wire #2 above). As you can see the fuse is totally bypassed.

    When the engine is running the G/W wire FROM the ignition switch, used in the starter sequence is inop. The power gets returned to the G/W wire from the resistor and then to the tach. When you are starting the engine, the B/W wire that killed the engine when you removed it, is inop as the power is being sent DIRECTLY to the tach via the G/W wire and then the B/W wire that had no effect.

    The power to the coil goes through one of two circuits BOTH of which go through the tach.

    Hope this makes some sense. Trying to explain electrical circuits is tricky and can be very confusing.

    As far as the "buzzing" that you're hearing, taking a WAG it might mean that your Voltage Regulator is having fits. But, with you having a couple of MAJOR wires (the B/W and G/W wires being mis-connected) let's first fix the problem with the tach, then let's tackle the VR...it might be that the buzzing goes away.

    E
    Last edited by EScanlon; 02-03-2006 at 12:22 PM.

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    Escanlon, I bow to you.

    As usual, I was 100% wrong. I should just remember to do exactly opposite of what I think should be done.

    I will try that fix tonight.

    Since you brought up the VR, I have a ZX alternator, will I have to use a larger VR if I swapped it in?

    I got another problem now. The last couple of times I have had the car warmed up, after shutting down, when I try to restart, I hear the solenoid click, but the starter does not engage. It's intermittant. Sometimes if I just hold the ignition all the way to the start position, it will engage the starter, sometimes not. Sometimes the starter will engage right away.
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Mat why don't you try swapping in one of the other 40 or 50 starters you have and see if that helps the starting issue. You can usually clean the armiture inside and the contact points, but you've got so damn many why bother...

    Search and I think you'll quickly find a guy who was selling a little wiring connector that plugs into the stock harness and then directly to the back of the ZX alternator which is internally regulated IIRC. You don't have a big stereo or any of that yet, so for right now what you've got (40 amp) should be fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmortensen
    Search and I think you'll quickly find a guy who was selling a little wiring connector that plugs into the stock harness and then directly to the back of the ZX alternator which is internally regulated IIRC. You don't have a big stereo or any of that yet, so for right now what you've got (40 amp) should be fine.
    That'd be me, if I was really doing it. But I ran out of time before I actually got the first batch made. I plan to build some eventually, but right now I've got too much going on with my own car to find the time to build and ship these gadgets. Maybe later this summer, if all goes well.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mat M
    ...snip...
    Since you brought up the VR, I have a ZX alternator, will I have to use a larger VR if I swapped it in?

    I got another problem now. The last couple of times I have had the car warmed up, after shutting down, when I try to restart, I hear the solenoid click, but the starter does not engage. It's intermittant. Sometimes if I just hold the ignition all the way to the start position, it will engage the starter, sometimes not. Sometimes the starter will engage right away.
    Arne will be your best info source on the ZX alternator, I've not worked with one and would be hesitant to even hazard a guess. But that being said, here's what I recall about the ZX alternator....they're internally regulated, as such you need to eliminate the external regulator on the side of the engine bay. Again, ask Arne, he was in the midst of making some form of plug to connect it into the older wiring harnesses, but had hazzles in getting the proper connectors.

    As far as the "starter malfunction", it isn't your starter.

    It's in the ignition switch.

    The solenoid you hear clicking IN the passenger cabin is the ACCESSORY relay that is being energized when your switch is in the "RUN" position, and off when the switch is in the "START" position. This is the relay that powers the fog lamps, rear window defrost, and other accessories (fan, radio, etc).

    The STARTER Relay is on the Starter itself, I'm not sure you could hear it very well from inside the cabin. (Hey, maybe you can!)

    But, and here's the kicker, I also have this problem, and it IS the Ignition Switch.

    Attached to the back of your Steering Wheel Lock is the Ignition Switch. These have a funny habit of getting loose, and not making good contact when actuated. It isn't that they're not MOUNTED onto the lock properly, it's that they are a rotating switch, and internally they get sloppy..INSIDE.

    But, thankfully, there are switches available, since Nissan used the same switch in various models. I'm having computer "fun" so I can't look up the part number, but if you have the club's microfiche you should be able to get the part number and call your local Nissan dealer.

    Taking it apart is EXTREMELY difficult and putting it back into operation afterward would probably border on the impossible. The switch components are crimped onto the switch body and it's that same "pot-metal" type body that resists any kind of bending.

    If you check your switch you'll probably find that like mine, the electronic contacts in the bake-lite, are not being held firmly in place by the surrounding metal collar crimp. As a result, the bake-lite can rotate slightly and it does, which makes for a poor contact when you rotate the switch via the key. I guess you could try gluing the bake-lite in place but I've not tried that yet.

    Hope this helps.
    Enrique

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    I've had starters fail in that same way that Mat describes and have fixed them by cleaning the armiture. I don't think we have enough info to say what the problem is yet. He does have 50 starters though, and it's 2 bolts and a plug or two to swap them out.

    I've also seen the switch go bad on a number of Z's, so that is a good possibility too. I just wouldn't rule out the starter yet.

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    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Thanks to all, especially to JM who reminded me...

    I guess I will be trying one of the 400 ignitions I have. Is there a way to re-key an ignition so I can have only one 4 inch key on the ring that will work with all the locks?
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    A locksmith should be able to re-key a lock.

    The iginition switch is separate from the lock cylinder though. The switch unscrews off of the back of the cylinder. If you look at the back of the lock, the key goes all the way through and sticks out the back of the lock cylinder, and it's that last 1/4" of the key that twists the plastic switch.

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    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Oh, cool, so I can austensibly change out my existing one with one I have in a crate and not worry about the ignition lock?
    Nice!
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
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    Yup. Kind of a bitch to get to, I can't remember if you have to take the stalks off the column or not. I think you can do it with everything still on the column.

    If not the bolts that attach the stalks to the column are breakaway bolts. Hit a certain torque and the head busts off. So if you need to remove them you can use a hammer and chisel or a dremel to cut a slot in the head of the bolt then remove with a flat screwdriver. Don't think you'll need to do that though.

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    Remove the clamshell surrounding your steering column and the Ignition/Steering Lock. If you CAN remove the lock assembly from the steering column, it makes it a dash easier to remove the Ignition Switch from the back of the Steering Lock. Once you can see it, just remove the connector going to it, and unscrew it from the lock.

    By the way, the ignition key does NOT go all the way through the lock, there IS a tab sticking out of the back of the ignition lock that engages the ignition switch.

    Enrique

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    Shows you how long it's been...

    Mat you could just plug another one into the harness and twist it with a screwdriver. Tanya B started her car that way for years.

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    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmortensen
    Shows you how long it's been...

    Mat you could just plug another one into the harness and twist it with a screwdriver. Tanya B started her car that way for years.
    HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA

    I work in Citrus Heights, one of the uh, less fortunate areas of the suburbs of Sacramento, between (from what I can see from the parking lot) 4 apartment complexes. I don't want to make it any easier for some meth head to steal it.

    Thanks for the info guys, I would literally be lost without all your help!
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    ...And the heavens opened, and the angels sang. And He saw that it was good.

    All is done!

    THANKS TO ALL, this morning I was able to swap out the ignition switch so the car starts more reliably; and I was able to rewire the coil wires so that the tach actually works!!!!

    That helped me to see that I am idling about 600 rpm (I don't have a timing light yet, I just adjusted by ear).

    Now, if I could only find someone who would be willing to sell (or trade) me an adapter for a 81ZX alternator for my 240... ;o)
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    Congratulations! I remember how stoked I was when I got my car re-wired to start correctly and get the tach to work as well. Glad we were all able to help.

    What adapter do you need for the distributor? Are you using the dizzy from an '81 that has the 3 wire module (E12-93)?
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    Arne, he's using the E12-80 (from post #4).

    Here's a link to the straw poll that Arne did in trying to drum up interest on the ZX Alternator plug. Note that the purpose of that plug was to eliminate the stock Voltage Regulator from the circuit. Since the INTERNAL regulator of the ZX Alternator made the original V/R not only redundant, but actually problematic, it was a great idea.

    Unfortunately, apparently obtaining the connectors proved impossible.

    Contact Arne for further info / help on that.

    Enrique

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    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Yes, I am using the e12-80 module. I do have a couple of e12-92s available if anyone is interested.

    What, specifically, were the connectors for which you were looking? Do you have schematics as to which circuit goes where? I guess I should take a look at the ZXs I have to see what the idea was about.
    Mat
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    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    Oh! I mis-read it, thought you were looking for something for the distributor, not the alternator.

    You don't need the adapter that I came up with, it can be done with normal wires and crimp connectors. But you also have to solder a diode into the circuit. Search the forum for diode and you'll find lots of (sometimes contradictory) posts.

    The adapter that I came up with is designed to simply plug into the main harness in place of the external voltage regulator. It has the required jumper wires and diode all self-contained. I have now found suppliers for the factory-style terminals and connectors, but now that I am hip-deep in replacing the wiring in my car, I don't have the time to build them. (Maybe later this summer, after I get my car sorted.) For now, I have only built one - and it's on my car.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    All right, Arne, I'll look around. That mod seems quite interesting to me.

    Thanks again for your help!
    Mat
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    01/71 HLS30-19724 original 918, 4 speed, ready for the 5 spd swap, and R200 diff from the '81ZX
    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

  36. #36
    Still plays with cars kenz240z's Avatar
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    Hey MatMan, glad to hear you got the tach working and all!
    Kenny P.

    '73 240Z
    '82 ZX L28
    '82 ZX 5-speed
    Round top SU's
    Tokico HP struts
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    my gallery

  37. #37
    Do it in a Z Mat M's Avatar
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    Thanks, Kenz240z!

    I am trying to get the car in a decent condition before the baby is born because I have a feeling I won't have much time for the next 18 years, or so...
    Mat
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    01/71 HLS30-19724 original 918, 4 speed, ready for the 5 spd swap, and R200 diff from the '81ZX
    08/71 HLS30-41979 multicolored auto, but under the knife - SOLD!!
    81 ZX Grey/blue 5-speed donor car, runs! - SOLD!!
    82 ZX Black auto T-top - motor/3.90 R200 donor car - MOST excellent PAPER WASP condo. - SOLD!!

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    Still plays with cars kenz240z's Avatar
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    Ha, ha, I'm almost done serving two concurrent life sentences!!!! My daughter is away at university, and my son is a Senior in high school. I'm almost free!

    The answer, of course, is for you and your new baby (when he or she arrives) to spend as much time together as possible working on Z cars! You gotta get the little person's priorities set straight right from the get go!
    Kenny P.

    '73 240Z
    '82 ZX L28
    '82 ZX 5-speed
    Round top SU's
    Tokico HP struts
    Tokico Springs
    Urethane bushings

    my gallery

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    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
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    I've only got one son, and he's away at college. So time is no longer a problem, but money is!!
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

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    Default It Lives!!!

    After months of inoperative tach after ZX distributor conversion and tons of thread reading I came across this thread that either I missed or was to lazy to read all the way through. ESCANLONS lucid wiring description solved my problem in about 2 minutes literally and that includes opening and closing the hood.
    I feel like Dr. Frankenstein when the lightening bolts at the lab worked and he is yelling.'HE LIVES!!! HE LIVES!!!!
    My thanks to ESCANLON ,ARNE et al this is a great and helpful site.

    Best,
    H Houghton

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    You're welcome!

    The fact that you got yours working is what makes it worthwhile to post in the first place.

    E

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