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Thread: AMP meter of the scale

  1. #1
    Registered User Dan's Avatar
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    Default AMP meter of the scale

    It appears that i'm missing a wire from the male side of the connecter that connects the VR to the main wiring bundle. I think this is responsible for the amps pegging of the scale when i drive. In other words the more rpms the more amps. I'm sure that when you start the car the amps peak for a bit to re-charge the battery and then kick back down so as not to fry your battery. What i need to know is where this missing wire would connect to that would limit amps. The VR is brand new the wire is missing from the connecter that connects to it. If i could figure out where this wire goes it wouldn't be a problem to hook it up. As you can imagine driving for long periods makes my battery real hot and i don't want to fry a $120 battery. Any clues would be much appreciated.

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    Registered User Rob's Avatar
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    I have no idea where that wire goes but I found a wiring diagram for my 75 260 in the owners manual (those were the days!).

    I don't have it with me right now but I'm guessing it would show how the VR is wired. Let me know if it would help and I will scan it and upload it.

  3. #3
    Registered User Dan's Avatar
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    It would Rob, any help you could provide would be much appreciated.

    Thanks

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    Registered User Rob's Avatar
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    OK I'll post it tomorrow.

    I took one look at the external regulator wiring in my Z, got confused, and fitted an internal reg alternator out of a Nissan Silvia (200SX). Much simpler!

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    Sorry Dan, I tried to scan mine but it wouldn't come out legible, might be my scanner. The wiring I told you about all goes to the alternator except for the White and Blackw/white. Hope that helps a little more.

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    Dan,I don't quite understand "missing wire" is it there and you don't know it location or is it not there.Anyway the 240's harness where the VR plugs has a solid white wire among others.Thats the on/off wire you're searching for.When they fail,everything looks normal in the plug.You need to check continuity across all wires with both male and female conn. together.If the test fails,you can jumper across to make create the path.You are wise not to drive like this as your battery can explode.You could disconnect at the VR and run off the battery only if you had too. Daniel

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    Registered User Dan's Avatar
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    Ha i am victorious i have found the problem and fixed it. First i checked all the wires with a diagram i have from the haynes manual. Then did some resistance checks and so on but found nothing, everything seemed to be fine. It's true that the male connector to the VR has two less wires than the female side, but according to the diagram all was as it should be. After some more testing i began to eye my VR and wonder if the brand new unit was working properly. So just for the hell of it i went and got a spare i have, it's an original factory VR from an early 280 i think. Hooked it up and it worked fine, was the damn VR all the time. The brand new obviously EL cheapo that the previous owner put on would not shut off power back to the battery, but the 25 yr old Factory junker worked fine go figure. Thanks to all for the help though.

  8. #8
    Registered User Rob's Avatar
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    Well done!

    I had just finished scanning these so here they are anyway, just in case anybody wants them...

    Here's the one for US (LHD):
    Attached Files Attached Files

  9. #9
    Registered User Rob's Avatar
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    And here's the one for the rest of the world that knows which side of the road to drive on
    Attached Files Attached Files

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