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Thread: Fuel Issue 83 280ZX

  1. #1
    Registered User Arminas's Avatar
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    Default Fuel Issue 83 280ZX

    Im not sure if yall really deal with the fuel injection, or the 83 model.. I really dont know a lot about these cars yet other than I love the body style of them and think there very pretty vehicles. Im having what I belive to be a fuel delivery issue with my 83 280ZX. the car will start after the fuel pump kicks off, rev to 1.5K run for a second or two, then stutter and stall. the fuel pump is running when the car dies and runs for a moment and when it kicks off the car will start again and repeat the same thing. if you touch the throttle at anytime the car will just flat out die. Im thinking a computer may be buggerd but I have no idea, the injectors look like they've all been changed, Ive replaced the fuel filter and checked, I KNOW fuel is flowing good to the pressure regulator but Ive no idea about the condition of the injectors, or of the pressure regulator. Im a novice mechanic but I have worked as a mechanic a few years, I know a little bit about a little bit but most of my work is on american cars and I never worked on the fuel systems. quite honestly my specialty is more geared twords jap bikes, working on cars is just somthing Ive done to pay for my hobbies Im thinking about buying an intake and carbs from another L6 Datsun engine, throwing a fuel cell in the car, and running an aftermarket fuel pump and pressure regulator. I eventualy plan on running the car as a drag car with a 350 V8 and a T350 transmition, but for now I would like to run the car on the street if I can to play with it while I build the engine and transmition slowly over the next year (I have a lot of projects and not so much money) Does anybody have any idea as to what I should check? common problems? is the carb route a good idea? or should I just save my money tear it down and throw the V8 in it?

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    Datsaholic Mr Camouflage's Avatar
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    Oh man, thats hard reading. Paragraph breaks are your friend. I only got half way through it, and couldn't read anymore, probably got half way more than anyone else, which is probably why no one replied.

    I've heard these cars have problems with the cold start valve, or thermotime switch. I think they are just different names for the same part The system keeps the fuel rich enough for cold starts. When they go it makes the car impossible to start.

    So I'd start with that. Also hybridz.org is probably a better place to ask about EFI, and definitely the place for ZX and V8 swap info.
    www.nostalgictrio.com Skyline - Silvia - Fairlady Z
    www.ozdat.com The Australian Datsun site.
    www.cafepress.com/vintagedatsun

  3. #3
    Registered User Arminas's Avatar
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    Thanks, I did a search after I did the post I figured that somebody else had to have my problem and I found a couple of things to try, somthing in particular about a tach circuit to the ECU from the coil.

    And yes, punctuation is not one of my strong suits sorry. Hard to belive I make some money writing isn't it? I have to have everything proof read by a real writer before I submit it

    I'm not really going to dump any money into the car. I was looking at the carb route but found that I could get a poorly running V8 for almost the same price as shipping a set of carbs and an intake out here that I was watching on E-bay so Im going to take one more day playing with the electrical in the car instead of the fuel and if I cant get it to go Im just going to dump a V8 in it.

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    S30-00931 BleachZee's Avatar
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    There are better cars to use as a drag racer than a 280ZX.

    Keep the fuel injection.
    Check your intake. Make sure the Air Flow Meter (AFM) is connected tight and the hose going from it to the throttle body is solid and all connections are on there. You dont want a huge air leak.

    It sounds to me like your AFM is just unplugged. Check the plug on the bottom. Make sure it is clean and dry. (and plugged in)

    1970 Fairlady Z RHD
    1983 280ZX Turbo
    Frontier

  5. #5
    Registered User Arminas's Avatar
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    I bought a 350 for the car today but Im going to play with the 6 a little more.

    The conector on the AFM was tight, one of the first things that was checked, its also sending a good signal. haven't checked the ECU tach reading yet, sombody else on the forum seemed to have a similar problem and that was suggested as a possibility, I also have yet to check the thermotime sensor.

    Didnt really play with the car today as I spent my day ripping into the 350

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    On that year there is a Relay behind the glove Box. It's the EFI/Fuel Pump and Bright Green in color! This will shut down the injectors and or the Fuel Pump! Put a Fuel Pressure Gauge on your in line after the Fuel filter and make sure your not running out of Gas!

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    Mike, I used to work right down the street from your shop at the Ralph's at Telegraph and Carmenita. I retired in 2002 (5 years ago today!) and from what I understand, that Ralph's has closed down. Haven't been in that area in years but I've actually been in your shop a couple of times. Small world.
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    Registered User Arminas's Avatar
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    Okay, so I used to think the car wasnt getting any fuel, but today for ****s and giggles I taped the mass air meter wide open and the bugger ran.. you have to be careful with the throttle and there isnt enough power to move it, but it will idle and sumble to 3k if your VERY light on the throttle.. so now Im thinking the car is running Super rich..

    So any ideas as to why my fuel injection would be dumping excess amounts of fuel?

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    Registered User Friar-Tuck's Avatar
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    Default 82 280zx carfische

    Arminas,
    I believe the '82 & 83's are pretty close (depending on build date)
    FSM's are pricey but worth it if you can afford one.
    Snooping around this site, may help.
    http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/index.pl

    Tuck\o/

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    Former frequent poster sblake01's Avatar
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    I believe that 82 used the regular EFI system until mid year and from then on through the 83 year, the ECCS was used. That's why I haven't offered any suggestions in this thread since I've don't have any experience with the ECCS.
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  11. #11
    Registered User Arminas's Avatar
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    Eh, I switched to a set of carbs I got for $75 yesterday with intake and hardware, car runs much better now.. needs some minor tweeks yet (carbs probobly need a cleaning out) but it will tach out now. need to get a fuel pump some new lines and Im planning on throwing a fuel cell in it and dropping the gas tank out.

  12. #12
    Former frequent poster sblake01's Avatar
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    I'm glad that worked out for you. You'll definately need to drop that fuel pressure down to something more inline with carbs. IMO, however, you haven't solved a 'fuel issue' as the thread is entitled, you've just switched over to a different set of fuel issues. Seems to me that the stuff you mention, carbs and intake, fuel pump, fuel lines, a fuel cell, etc would cost more than correcting the EFI problems. Especially if you're contemplating things like putiing a V8 in it and making a 'drag car' out of it. My approach would have been much different but it's your car.
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    Registered User Arminas's Avatar
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    Im trying to run it as a street car for now while I build the drag motor and transmition, and still be able to take it to the track on weekends to play with at test and tune. the carbs cost me $75 a brand new intake and exhaust gasket came with the car, Im paying $40 for an extra fuel cell a buddie has and doesnt like (that I need for the drag car anyway) and he had a low pressure fuel pump that he gave me. this has cost a Lot less than figuring out the fuel injection issue. if I had a bad computer or a bad sensor it would cost me just as much if not two or three times as much to fix it. everythings buttond up now and I need the regular plugs, wires, cap and rotor tune up as well as a fluid change, oil, and coolant at least. still running the same fuel lines from the fuel injection

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    Former frequent poster sblake01's Avatar
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    I have stockpiled lots of EFI parts and have been trouble shooting these cars for a number of years now. I actually find them fairly simple. They are, however, much easier for me to diagnose in person than in print. In my estimation of cost I guess I sometimes forget the fact that not everyone has the parts and would have to go buy them. An 83 is outside my expertise since it has the later ECCS system which I have no experience with. In some ways it's similar but there are some major differences.
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  15. #15
    Registered User Arminas's Avatar
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    my expertise is exactly the opposite, I learned to work on vehicles with old (pre 1980) motorcycles and can strip and rebuild a carborator fairly quickly and am fairly decent at tuneing one by ear/smell. the SU carborators in this respect are very nice because there more designed like a motorcycle carb than they are a traditional car carb like the one on my isuzu pup. I like Holly's for the same reason, very simplistic. I know absolutely nothing about a Fuel injected system and there just frustrating and confusing to me, even if I had to spend more money this way (and yeah I have no stockpile of Z parts except the parts that came with the car, and there were no spares other than an intake/exhaust gasket) it was worth it to me in the time/frustration department. Im much happier tearing into a carborator than sitting with a multimeter testing every circut and sensor in the car. I do appreciate your help however when I made my small and fruitless attempt to figure it out. I did find out that it was most definatly a problem with the intake dumping excess amounts of fuel. If I removed all the vaccume lines and let them draw air it would run well enough to move it around the driveway but still wouldnt rev past 4K

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