Results 1 to 22 of 22

Thread: Fusible Link for a 240 Z

  1. #1
    beandip beandip's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1887
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Age
    81
    Posts
    4,038

    Default Fusible Link for a 240 Z

    A friend just blew his fusible link . The local parts store has some but they don't have model specific info . Does anyone know the amp value for the fusible link for a '71 240 Z ? I did a search but no joy. Thanks in advance . Gary
    I'd rather die while I am living than live while I am dieing. CZC 1887 IZCC 12602 Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

  2. #2
    Registered User rtaylor's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-9967
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Pomona, CA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    461

    Default

    Gary. I have a good spare that I took from my car. Send me a PM and I'll mail it to you.
    Randy Taylor
    2/71 240z

    HLS30-23242

  3. #3
    beandip beandip's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1887
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Age
    81
    Posts
    4,038

    Default

    rtaylor. Thank you vary much for the offer. I was able to come up with the correct part number on my club's Microfiche and was able to order a few from Nissan. Being they are not that expensive and are a must have , if you blow one . I ordered 4 The part number if any one wants one is 24022 E8200 This is for a '71- 7-73 I don't remember the month for the '71. From 8-73 there are two different part numbers 24161 28500 or 24161 A0100 these two have different amp values. It may be due to the different alternators used , I don't know. Taylor again thanks for the offer. Gary
    I'd rather die while I am living than live while I am dieing. CZC 1887 IZCC 12602 Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

  4. #4
    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-8596
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon, USA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    8,465

    Default

    Hmmm. Probably something I should consider adding to my spares in the toolkit, along with regular fuses, E12-80, etc.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

  5. #5
    Registered User Nissanman's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-13952
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Adelaide, South Australia
    Age
    70
    Posts
    473

    Default

    Depending on how original you want your car to be......
    It might be more practical to use MAXI BLADE fuses in place of the factory fuseable link[s].
    They are a lot easier to check and replace and come in a variety of ratings: -
    Dimensions in mm.

    http://www.narva.com.au/Fuses_5.html
    Narva, for example, also sell FUSE LINK WIRE in an assortment of ratings as well as modern FUSEABLE LINK mountings: -

    http://www.narva.com.au/Fuses_6.html
    Nissanman - just trying to help
    http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/action/

  6. #6
    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1490
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,874

    Default

    The biggest problem isn't finding a fuse or even fusible link wire, it's determining the correct rating for it.

    The earlier Z's (up to 7/73) had a choice of 4 part numbers none of which show rating information. After 8/73 you have a rating choice of either 0.5 or 1.25.

    Part numbers:
    24022-E4101 Fusible Link, with Rubber Cover, listed as OP
    24022-E4100 Fusible Link, LESS Rubber Cover, listed as up to 12/70
    24022-E4102 Fusible Link, Less Rubber Cover, listed as 1/71 to 8/71 superseding E4100
    24022-E8200 Fusible Link, Less Rubber Cover, listed as 9/71 to 8/73 superseding E4102
    Note that there isn't any model info nor rating information.
    Then:
    24161-28500 Fusible Link (0.5), listed as from 8/73 for either the 2 seater of the 2+2
    24161-A0100 Fusible Link (1.25), listed as from 8/73 but no model detail.

    Additionally, the earlier Z's had a Datsun connector on one end and an eye-ring on the other (starter end). The Datsun connector is what connects it to the wiring harness just below the battery and by the starter. It isn't your "standard" fusible link wire which arrives with plain wire ends. (Don't forget that the gage of the wire AND it's length are both factors in determining the rating of the link.)
    Later models had a fusible link "box" with a cover.

    This is where it lies. If we can investigate the particulars, it might be possible to ascertain WHERE and WHAT to buy.

    FWIW
    E

  7. #7
    beandip beandip's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1887
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Age
    81
    Posts
    4,038

    Default

    This fuse link is an important part of the electrical system . I have seen 240 Zs wired with regular 10ga wire and even single strand wire that is used to wire a home. That is eliminating any safe guard to some important stuff under the dash. I am saying this for the benefit of our new members that may not know that there is a fusible link and how important it is. Gary
    I'd rather die while I am living than live while I am dieing. CZC 1887 IZCC 12602 Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

  8. #8
    Registered User ConchZ's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-17507
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Age
    51
    Posts
    342

    Default Need Help with 1973 Fusible Link

    I've been digging all evening, and not found any posts that list the rating of the fusible link on my 1973 240Z. I need to replace the link between the battery and the starter. Ran the battery down and had to jump start, which burnt out the link. You can't buy this thing for less than $25, and only at Courtesy, so far as I can tell. I refuse to pay that for a short little wire. The reason you pay so much, instead of building your own is two things. 1) One end of the link has an extra wide plug on it, that you can't buy in the store. 2) You can't find out what the failure amperage should be.

    I was able to get it going again by wiring in a 30amp inline fuse. I tried a 20 amp fuse, and it blew. I used the old wide plug and soldered it onto my inline fuse, so that I wouldn't have to cut up the factory wiring, just in case I ever buy a real fusible link.

    Does anyone thing 30 amps is too high? I figure that the alternator only produces 50 amps or so, and there are some accessories that use 20 amp fuses, so 30 should be about right for that small wire to the starter.

    Also, if anyone has a cheaper source of these 1973 fusible links(or that odd width blade connector), please let me know. Thanks! A picture of one is attached.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1973 Fusible Link.jpg 
Views:	115 
Size:	4.8 KB 
ID:	24741  

  9. #9
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-2148
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Phoenix, Az
    Posts
    690

    Default

    If it is any help, Banzai Motorworks, www.zzxdatsun.com, lists the links in there on-line catalogue under the title, Customer requests, item #E-28 for 1970-1973 240z for $5.00 each. I have used these from Banzai and they work perfectly, and they would know the amp ratings for different years I am quite sure.

    Dan

  10. #10
    Registered User ConchZ's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-17507
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Age
    51
    Posts
    342

    Default

    Great! That's a reasonable price. I'd rather buy a correct part than do my own hair-brained fabrication.

    While on that site, I also found a windshield washer bottle and pump under bits and pieces. My pump hasn't worked in years. Since the pump is fairly well attached to the bottle, it seems best to just buy the bottle with the pump at that price. Unless someone sells just the pump, although I think you might tear up the bottle when you remove the pump.

    Thanks so much!

  11. #11
    beandip beandip's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1887
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Beaverton, Oregon
    Age
    81
    Posts
    4,038

    Default

    I bought a new pump at the parts store , fits the bottle and all. I don't remember what it cost but it wasn't much. Shucks auto parts. They are called Krager in other places.
    I'd rather die while I am living than live while I am dieing. CZC 1887 IZCC 12602 Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

  12. #12
    Registered User ConchZ's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-17507
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Age
    51
    Posts
    342

    Default

    Any tip on detaching the pump from the bottle? Does it just pull off, or are there actually some bolts through all that rubber that hold it on?

  13. #13
    Supporting Member EScanlon's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-1490
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,874

    Default

    Run it under some hot water, that will soften the rubber up enough that you can then rotate motor and rubber sleeve out from the "fingers" of the bottle. Once it's out, you may have to heat it up again, but the motor will also slide out of the rubber.

    If you look through your local auto parts shop, you may find one that has the right diameter ... although length and nozzle placement may differ. But that's not important as long as you don't double or triple the length, and nozzle placement just means you'll have to re-route your tubing.

    Re-mounting the new motor with rubber sleeve should be fairly easy now that the rubber has been softened and will be evident by the time you remove the old one. Just look at the alignment of the rubber before you remove it.

    Wiring is just as simple since they're just 12v motors, make sure you match the positive lead and you're fine. If you want to test it, that's fine, worst case you'll be blowing bubbles into the reservoir.

    One final note on removing the old motor, don't pull too hard on the tubing attached to the bottle, you CAN break off the nozzle tip at the bottle and you'll have ruined it. It can be repaired, but it's a major headache to do so properly and do it without leaking. Your best bet is to simply cut off the old hose which will have undoubtedly hardened to near concrete by now.

    2
    E

  14. #14
    DeesZ (John) DeesZ's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-9676
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Pennsylvania - Millersburg
    Age
    69
    Posts
    745

    Default

    For what it;s worth on both topics:
    For the Fusible link, be confident that the one Banzai provides is good quality and a perfect replacement, I have used one for several years (on my '72), and keep a spare on hand in case of a problem. Mike will also get them to you quickly.
    For the washer pump, before the effort of removing and replacing, check to assure that you have power to the pump. If so, try gently whacking it with a screwdriver handle or something similar. Then have someone power it up and tap it again. I've had about 4 or 5 seized ones and gotten all but one to work that way. You've got nothing to loose, and the odds are good that it may again work for you without any great effort.
    See my Gallery .....
    http://www.classiczcars.com/photopos...00&ppuser=9676

    John

    CZCC #9676 - IZCC #14985
    1972 - HLS30-84646 - My driver - matching #'s - Nice ride
    1973 - HLS30-132236 - RIP - Reduced to boxes of spare parts in the garage

  15. #15
    Registered User ConchZ's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-17507
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Age
    51
    Posts
    342

    Default

    I called Banzai. They have raised their prices from $5 to $15 for their link. He says that since Nissan doesn't sell them, he has to make them. I ordered two, so I'd have a spare. However, I'm keeping my home-made link just in case I ever need it again. I'm using a 30 amp fuse in it, and it hasn't blown yet.

    Interestingly, they no longer sell the washer bottle/pump combo. He suggested I follow your advice and just buy a generic one and make it work. I went to Advance auto, and asked to see their pumps. The guy asked me what car it was for, and wow...they actually can order them. We'll see if it comes in. It costs $33.

    Thanks for your suggestions and help!

  16. #16
    Registered User ConchZ's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-17507
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Age
    51
    Posts
    342

    Default Trial and Error = solution

    Thought I'd tell everyone about my experience using the maxi-blade fuses to replace the fusible link on my 73. I started with a 20 amp fuse, but it blew. A 30 amp fuse didn't blow, at least at first. After accidentally running the battery down, I jumped the car and it ran fine. Fine until I turned on the headlights, that is. It blew out immediately. Here's my theory....

    From the wiring diagram, the only way the battery is going to get charged is through this fusible link. If its low, its going to draw a lot of current through the link to charge the battery. I found out the hard way that if the link blows, the car will continue running, but will not charge the battery. Having hooked my headlights to the battery via Zs-ondabrain's headlight harness upgrade, the headlights began drawing power from the battery, thereby discharging it while I unknowingly drove. Once I turned off the car, I had no electrical power, and couldn't jump start it, classic fusible link burnt out symptoms. I first replaced the link, but then found my battery was dead. Why oh why was it dead, I wondered. I jump started it, drove it a while and then noticed the link blew again. You can tell because your amp meter stops working. The headlights then dimmed, as they were running off the nearly dead battery.

    So, 30 amps isn't a big enough fuse if the battery is low and its drawing a charge. I switched to 40 amps, and problem is solved. From the wiring diagram, there's at least three 20 amp circuits that branch off of this fusible link, so I don't think 40 amps is too big. I turned on everything but the rear defroster, which isn't yet hooked up, and it didn't blow the 40 amp fuse. So, its good for now. Will post again if the 40 amp blows when I get the defroster hooked up again.

    Matt

  17. #17
    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-5413
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Gainesville, GA
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,651

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ConchZ View Post
    Thought I'd tell everyone about my experience using the maxi-blade fuses to replace the fusible link on my 73. I started with a 20 amp fuse, but it blew. A 30 amp fuse didn't blow, at least at first. After accidentally running the battery down, I jumped the car and it ran fine. Fine until I turned on the headlights, that is. It blew out immediately. Here's my theory....

    From the wiring diagram, the only way the battery is going to get charged is through this fusible link. If its low, its going to draw a lot of current through the link to charge the battery. I found out the hard way that if the link blows, the car will continue running, but will not charge the battery. Having hooked my headlights to the battery via Zs-ondabrain's headlight harness upgrade, the headlights began drawing power from the battery, thereby discharging it while I unknowingly drove. Once I turned off the car, I had no electrical power, and couldn't jump start it, classic fusible link burnt out symptoms. I first replaced the link, but then found my battery was dead. Why oh why was it dead, I wondered. I jump started it, drove it a while and then noticed the link blew again. You can tell because your amp meter stops working. The headlights then dimmed, as they were running off the nearly dead battery.

    So, 30 amps isn't a big enough fuse if the battery is low and its drawing a charge. I switched to 40 amps, and problem is solved. From the wiring diagram, there's at least three 20 amp circuits that branch off of this fusible link, so I don't think 40 amps is too big. I turned on everything but the rear defroster, which isn't yet hooked up, and it didn't blow the 40 amp fuse. So, its good for now. Will post again if the 40 amp blows when I get the defroster hooked up again.

    Matt
    I don't claim to be an expert on fusible links, but according to this site, a black fusible link should be good up to 80A. Granted, length is a factor in capacity, but I don't think the 240Z fusible link is that long. You may want to go to a 60A fuse.
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

    Blue's collection of tech tips - A great place to look for answers
    XenonS30 -The cheap source for FSMs
    Georgia Z Club
    Fiddling with Z Cars - Z car tips & tricks and pictures of my car-loving life.
    Steve's CARtography - Just car pictures.

  18. #18
    Registered User ConchZ's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-17507
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Age
    51
    Posts
    342

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJ View Post
    I don't claim to be an expert on fusible links, but according to this site, a black fusible link should be good up to 80A. Granted, length is a factor in capacity, but I don't think the 240Z fusible link is that long. You may want to go to a 60A fuse.
    I did look at that site, and considered going with 60 amps. However, since the original alternator only puts out like 40 amps, I figure it should never exceed that. I may someday upgrade the alternator, in which case I may need a bigger fuse. I kinda like the old external mechanical voltage regulator that is necessary with the old alternator, as I get to watch the amp meter jiggle and wiggle. It reminds you that you are in an old car. Passengers seem to think that's neat, too.

  19. #19
    Registered User biddljj's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-11405
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Could a fusible link describe the following ?
    1972 240Z has been in the body shop for the last few months.... Body work done
    Go to start the car and nothing... no dash lights, no starter
    Charged the battery (battery is less than a year old)... Car started fine, Ran fine
    Battery dead again the next morning.... Charge a bit.... Start Car... Load onto trailer
    Car is dead again at the paint shop
    Jump starts car fine.... Ameter reads charing when the car is running

    Not just a Z - zdisease

  20. #20
    Semi-retired admin Arne's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-8596
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon, USA
    Age
    63
    Posts
    8,465

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by biddljj View Post
    Could a fusible link describe the following ?
    No. Fusible link is all or nothing. Won't repair itself temporarily after charging the battery.
    Quote Originally Posted by biddljj View Post
    1972 240Z has been in the body shop for the last few months.... Body work done
    Go to start the car and nothing... no dash lights, no starter
    Charged the battery (battery is less than a year old)... Car started fine, Ran fine
    Battery dead again the next morning.... Charge a bit.... Start Car... Load onto trailer
    Car is dead again at the paint shop
    Jump starts car fine.... Ameter reads charing when the car is running
    Sounds like a short somewhere in the wiring is draining the battery overnight.
    Arne - Former owner, HLS30-37705, 7/71, 905 Red
    Car blogs - 240Z - Porsche 911

  21. #21
    Registered User
    Member ID
    CZCC-3609
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Clearwater,Florida USA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    4,424

    Default

    I'd guess you need to have a load test performed on that battery. Put it on a slow charger. After it is fully charged - take it somewhere that it can be put on a battery load tester. Sometimes batteries develop a dead short internally and that shows up on a load test.

    It sounds like it is going dead to quickly for something in the car to be draining it - if there is something in the car draining it that quickly - I think you would smell it.

    FWIW,
    Carl B.

  22. #22
    Registered User biddljj's Avatar
    Member ID
    CZCC-11405
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    236

    Default

    I should have the car home from paint inside a week.

    I'll do a check for dead shorts. I did notice that the accessory relay got hot
    when the battery was being charged.

    The car was healthy in March of this year when I drove it sans windshield on a blustery march day 10 miles to the body shop. Froze my face off.....

    Thanks, Jay
    Not just a Z - zdiseae

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. fusible link sizes
    By MC75Z in forum Help Me !!
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-16-2007, 07:49 PM
  2. Fusible Link Upgrade
    By Alan Pugh in forum Electrical (S30)
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 05-14-2005, 06:58 AM
  3. Alternator Fusible Link
    By spudea in forum Electrical (S30)
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 03-29-2005, 12:10 PM
  4. fusible link help with 74 260z
    By tazmaan in forum Help Me !!
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-11-2004, 01:07 AM
  5. fusible link
    By malder in forum Electrical (S30)
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-16-2003, 07:36 AM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •