240Z steering rack

[Richard McDonel]

I'm doing a ground-up resto on a '71 240Z, but having a problem with the steering rack. I've removed the outer tie rods and the boots. I did have some difficulty removing the inner tie rods because the lock (jam) nut is quite thin and is crammed between the tie rod one one side and an unidentified object on the inside. This object does not appear in illustrations in either the factory manual or Haynes. Instructions in both books make no mention. Overall shape and size (there's one at each end of the rack) is much like a bearing. It is round, without wrench flats. Push on it hard by hand, and it feels like there might be a spring inside. Immediately adjacent to it is a hole drilled into the rack. I've poked around the hole with a punch, but that has yielded nothing. Until I get rid of these things, I can't withdraw the rack.
My local Nissan dealer has no knowledge of, or interest in, early models.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. If someone needs photos, let me know.

Regards,
Richard McDonell
Red Deer, Alberta, Canada

[Nigel1943]

If you look at page 188 of the Haynes manual you will see the ball end of the inner track rod sitting in its seat with the spring behind it. The seat and the spring should just pull out. Try putting the rack on end and gently tap the end of the housing, it should just fall out.

[Nissanman]

Some images for you

[cygnusx1]

I believe I loosened mine with a punch and hammer, but a spanner wrench might be the right tool.

[Lazeum]

I'm working in car steering system, this is the tool we are using on inner tie rods It might damage your tie rods (scratches on ball joint housing) though so be careful

[cygnusx1]

Yes, Pipe wrenches are indispensable in any toolbox. They provide the grip of death to anything short of hard chrome. My inner tie rod had a slight amount of play on the drivers side in my 280Z. When I got it apart, I saw no visible sign of excessive wear or damage so I simply fit a washer behind the spring to increase the preload slightly. I don't endorse this, but I like to be frugal sometimes, and tend to "make due" when I can. Let the flames begin.

[Richard McDonel]

Thanks fellows. I think we're getting close, but not quite there yet.
I have page 188 of Haynes in front of me, and I'm assuming the illustration in question is Fig. 11.66. There is still a piece missing. That figure shows a cross section of the threaded-on ball joint body, then one more threaded-on piece to the left. Mine has a third piece (I'm guessing a steering stop) and if you look at the attached photo, my friend is pointing to it. That is the mystery piece that has me confused. We have determined that it is not spring-loaded, but rather is rubber-mounted. I'm sure that I could get it off with a pipe wrench or a big hammer, but that would no doubt destroy whatever rubber mounting there is.

Now I do have a second 240 steering rack, and as you can see from that photo, there is a metal-foil wrapper around the ball joint and lock nut, with the words "disassembly instr." But there are no English "instr," only oriental script. The mystery piece is to the right in that photo.

Any further thoughts? Again, I am appreciative of your advice.

[zcarnut]

Richard;

The “third piece” is indeed a steering stop. It is just a hollow rubber sleeve within a metal shell. It’s a tight fit on the rack, but it can be moved away from the lock nut by simply prying over with a screwdriver. This will allow you to remove the lock nut and then unscrew the inner ball joint.

[Richard McDonel]

Thanks Steve,
I was happy to receive your post, as it was the first outside confirmation I had that the damn things existed, what with Haynes and the factory making no mention. My situation is that I'm stripping the rack right down so I can get the housing sandblasted and painted, but the rack won't come out with steering stops in place.
Actually, I already had the lock nut and ball joint off - I just put them back on to make my photo of last night a bit clearer. To loosen the lock nut with the steering stop in place, I first used a 32 mm bicycle cone wrench, which bent. Then I bought a cheap 32 mm combination wrench and ground the open end down thin enough to fit between the steering stop and the ball joint. Now I understand from you that no great damage would have been done by just prying the thing out of the way.
So the remaining question is what happens to the rubber in the steering stop when I pull the whole thing right off the rack? I don't see replacement parts in anyone's catalogue. It seems to me you would have a pretty iffy "stop" if you just shoved the thing back on. Also, what are the immediately adjacent holes in the rack for? Do they accomodate some sort of set screw to prevent the stop from moving on the rack? As the King of Siam repeatedly says in "The King and I," "Tis a puzzlement!"
I appreciate your help.

[zcarnut]

Yes, depending on the condition of the rubber, the stops may not survive being removed. I have several spare used ones if you should need one.

I think you can still get the rack bronze sleeves (fiche #4) the pinion bearing (#10) and the pinion bushing (#3) which should be replaced or at least inspected during a rack re-build.

The holes in the rack allow you to use a Zerk grease fitting so you can lube the inner ball socket joint. If you blow out the holes with a air gun you can see where they connect to.

Of course, you must remove the Zerk fitting after adding grease because it would hit the rack housing.

[Richard McDonel]

Wow Steve, you are a fount of knowledge! I think we'd all do better with a Golik manual that with a Haynes.
Many thanks. I'll let you know how I make out.

Regards,

[Richard McDonel]

Yes, the stops came off with no problem. One little twist of each with pliers to get started, then gently rotating in line with the threads on the rack. The parts are probably re-usable.

Thanks again.

[DArtanean]

I think you can still get the rack bronze sleeves (fiche #4) the pinion bearing (#10) and the pinion bushing (#3) which should be replaced or at least inspected during a rack re-build.

I know this is a blast from the past, but I can't read the part numbers from the xenons30.com fiche for these parts. Could someone give me a hand? Rack is from a 72' 240z.

[zKars]

Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Steering Gear (Rack & Pinion Type)

Much better pictures and part number listings.

Courtesy is only showning the bearing (#10) as being available anymore.... No big surprise. I'll call Nissan Canada and see what I can dig up.

Nope sorry 48127-78500 and 48128-78500 are not available here either.

[CanTechZ]

From my parts fiche CD the best I can read is P/N 48126-78500 for the pinion bushing, for up to 07/73 and P/N 48018-E8700 for the pinion bearing, from 08/71 to 07/73.

[DArtanean]

Thanks guys! I do appreciate the quick assist.

Jay

[DArtanean]

Guys,

FWIW I just was able to order the following from Courtesy:

Key Part Number Description Quantity Price
4 48127-78500 BUSH-STEERING RACK (1) $7.91
10 48018-E8700 BEARING-PINION STEER (1) $16.73
13 48125-78500 SEAL-OIL PINION U (1) $2.59
22 48203-N3000 BOOT-STEERING GEAR (2) $104.98
23 48055-E8700 CLAMP-DUST COVER UPP (4) $9.16
24 48054-78500 CLAMP-BOOT STEERING (2) $2.54

[zKars]

See, never trust an on-line data base. Call and ask.

Now the nail biter is, will one actually make it to your doorstep...

[DArtanean]

Jim,

I am crossing my fingers... Some it is absolutely needed, some are nice to have. BTW that carpartsmanual.com site is awesome! Many thanks,

Jay

[DArtanean]

Awww snap!

"Dear Mr.Blair,


Thank you for your order. This is to let you know that Nissan has informed
us that part #48125-78500 [SEAL-OIL] is now no longer available. However,
I did locate several dealerships in the US that list one of these ??s in
their inventory. We will contact them and, if they actually have it
(sometimes these listings are inaccurate or the part is being held for
another customer), we will procure it from them and then ship it to you.
If they do not have it we will issue a refund.

Thank you for your order. This is to let you know that Nissan has informed
us that part #48055-E8700 [CLAMP] 48018-E8700 [BRNG-PINIO] (OEM part
#48055-E8700, 48018-E8700) is now no longer available."

Back on the hunt again... I wonder if I can source the bearing straight from Koyo or cross reference it.

Ahhh.... Yo Ho Yo Ho a Z's Life for me.

Jay

[zKars]

Dang it. There is a good chance you can find a bearing from a generic source. Take it with you to a big drivetrain or bearing shop. Measure it and check on line to see if find one. Read the fine print on the bearing itself for an SKF or similar part number.

[DArtanean]

Guys,

A couple of things I have come up with:

1) WAS able to find the bushings for the rack (48127-78500 - Courtesy) & (48128-78500 - Smith Family Nissan (580) 225-3344)
2) Pinion bearing is a standard part in the industry 6003RS (17x35x10) that you can find anywhere for around $10 - helped when I got out the readers and could see it was an "S" and not a "5"!!!
3) The bellows I am using, per the rebuilding rack thread on here, are EMPI 88-1509K ~$15/side from Amazon
4) Still hunting the oil seal (Courtesy is looking across the dealerspace for me)

Thanks Again for the assists!

Jay

[CanTechZ]

Jay, I found a Timken crossover part number for the oil seal you might be able to look for, Nissan 48125-78500 SEAL-OIL crosses to Timken 221735. See this link for the info on page 149:

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...ence_Guide.pdf

Timken is the parent for National Industrial Seals, and are best sourced from any industrial bearing house, like Kaman Industrial Technologies.

HTH Mike

While looking for seal specs I found this source:

National 221735 - Oil Seal | O'Reilly Auto Parts

[DArtanean]

Mike,

If that is the case, and after looking at the Kalman site, I think that the steering rack bushings, pinion bushing, pinon bearing and the oil seal all might be able to be sourced after market. I will need to break out my digital mic and do some careful measuring.

Thanks!

Jay

[CanTechZ]

You're welcome, here is a link crossing over Timken Bearings as well. I didn't find the pinion bearing here but may be use full for others, Timken is mainly know for tapered roller bearings. Maybe SKF or others may publish a cross over list as well.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products...ence_Guide.pdf

[DArtanean]

Turns out the skf 6641 seems to be the exact seal and skf 6003rs seems to be the correct bearing - both readily available on ebay or amazon for under $10 a piece.

Let's hope everything makes it here from Amazon, Ebay, Courtesy and Smith's Family Nissan!

Jay

[Captain Obvious]

I took a later 280 style rack apart in my rebuild thread and it's clearly different in a bunch of ways. One thing that was definitely different was that the pinion gear did not use standard ball bearings in the later racks. And there were two ball bearings, one on each end of the pinion gear shaft.

And you've got just one ball bearing at the top of the pinion? What's at the lower end supporting the "down inside" tip of the pinion gear shaft? Is there a bronze bushing down in there or do they just run the pinion shaft right on the rack casting?

[DArtanean]

Cap,

It is a bronze bushing. No luck on finding that and I am REALLY reluctant to pull it out. Had a bad experience with my rear disks mangling a bearing and needing to get one machined later one. There is clearly a little slop but I think my haste of "while I am at it" might be stronger than the case for actually replacing it.

Jay

[DArtanean]

Cap...

While thinking about it, I need to take some pictures of my rack, and old/new parts and add to your thread. That would help the next guy and the info really should be in that thread.

Jay

[CanTechZ]

I took a later 280 style rack apart in my rebuild thread and it's clearly different in a bunch of ways. One thing that was definitely different was that the pinion gear did not use standard ball bearings in the later racks. And there were two ball bearings, one on each end of the pinion gear shaft.

And you've got just one ball bearing at the top of the pinion? What's at the lower end supporting the "down inside" tip of the pinion gear shaft? Is there a bronze bushing down in there or do they just run the pinion shaft right on the rack casting?

It looks to me that this is one of those cases where the parts microfiche is incorrect. For the 240Z rack assembly it shows both the bearing (item 10) and the bushing (item 3) on the lower side of the pinion.

[Captain Obvious]

Jay,

That lower bearing is definitely different than the later racks then. Both the bearings on mine were balls and they were bot the same. I'm with you... If you don't have a confirmed correct replacement for that bronze bearing in hand, I wouldn't mess with it.

As for adding pics of the older rack style to that rebuild thread, I think that's a great idea. Would add to the resource.

CanTechZ, That drawing is fine. Drawn by esteemed draftsman M.C. Eschersan.

[CanTechZ]

...CanTechZ, That drawing is fine. Drawn by esteemed draftsman M.C. Eschersan.

Interpreting a drawing depends on your point of view...



Source: M.C. Escher ? Life and Work


Mike

[Captain Obvious]

Yeah, that's the guy! So he does architecture too, huh?

[DArtanean]

[CanTechZ]

Nice comparison Jay, and it's nice that this seal works for all zeds up to 09/73.

[DArtanean]

1972 Steering Rack after market bearing versus original

[zKars]

This is an excerpt from the SKF "Vintage Bearings and Seals" catalogue that includes only the Nissan pages.



It lists every bearing and seal part numbers on every Nissan made up to 1995. I mean all. engine, axles, and yes, rack and pinions...

The whole catalog is here on SKF's website, all 881 pages of it. I thought you'd appreciate an abridged version. Don't ask me how I extracted pages from a locked pdf either...

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