5 speed knob reproduction?

OJ, ..."Almost identical"...is that really the way you see these:

Attachment 57283Attachment 57282

Two knobs, one is an OEM early S30 5speed knob that is in a bit better shape than the one the OP pictured, and the other is the aftermarket one in the ebay ad...These really look almost identical to you?

Admittedly the ebay ad is described as a walnut, but can you make out any of the grain in that seriously painted up dark shiny black knob? Even in the OPs picture you can clearly see the grain of the wood. Then lets look at the underside engraved black and white painted OEM emblem vs the Enameled Black, black red and chrome one on the ebay ad...Really, almost Identical...
I gotta say I don't consider them even close! I would never have considered an oem wood and embossed plastic clear, black, and white knob to be almost identical to that shiny "walnut" knob-devoid of any hint of grain with a metal chrome-plated knob highlighted with Black, Red.

From many detailed things you have posted, I am very surprised that you would call these "almost identical".

I would call them both 5 shift knobs with an 8mm threaded insert, but to my eye they are about as far apart as MG V8 and an LS1;), You don't see those as identical do you?;)
I see them as I see these shift knobs, similar but no where close to almost identical.

BTW if a buyer didn't know it wasn't an original shift knob and they received a good looking new shift knob would they wait until they discovered that the Shift knob was not original to a Z to leave feedback? Good feedback does not necessarily mean a seller is honest, only that the buyer may not know better.

Almost is almost , the OP ask for help, so I clearly put FWIW on my response , no need to scream my GA Bulldog Fan. BTW the pictures are not at the same scale , that particular knob has the same size as the one that came from Nippon :cool:

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Originally Posted by 72 OJ

Almost is almost , the OP ask for help, so I clearly put FWIW on my response , no need to scream my GA Bulldog Fan :cool:

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Hold on~! Just because I live in Georgia and I have many pictures of a Red '73 with black interior does not mean I am automatically a Georgia Fan. I know far more about these shift knobs than I do about Georgia Football-I know more about UGA the bulldog than I know about Georgia Football-though I do know the Jekyll Island Club is hosting a dinner with Vince Dooley this weekend-you see Ga/FL weekend interferes with celebrating my wedding anniversary in the way that I would like!

That is Vincent Joseph Dooley..................;)

OJ,
From witnessing the BS Datsun Parts sells and has sold, I would never buy from him ever. He is full of it even with a 99% feed back

Attachment 57284 I got this one for my old Z and it was very nice :bulb:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hls30.com

OJ, ..."Almost identical"...is that really the way you see these:

Attachment 57283Attachment 57282

Two knobs, one is an OEM early S30 5speed knob that is in a bit better shape than the one the OP pictured, and the other is the aftermarket one in the ebay ad...These really look almost identical to you?

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Exactly what I was referring to, I want to replace the one that broke! I actually own this knob:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240z-...2e9474&vxp=mtr

...but the wood one was so much better! I looked for a long time for that JDM knob and was a bummer seeing it break.

Not to deviate from the topic, but 280~Master is also correct, my friend bought a "rebuilt" engine... looked good on the outside, but was dirty on the inside when they pulled it apart. Even though his store is in the next town over, I would steer clear as well.

Datsun-Parts is a known problem vendor. This last ID, "DATSUN-PARTS" is the longest standing ID he has ever had.

Here is his ID history:

User ID-------------------Effective Date------------End Date
datsun-parts................May-01-07...................Present
ur-gelis.......................Oct-21-04....................May-01-07
bad-mfr .....................May-12-03....................Oct-21-04
absolutely-ghetto.........Mar-03-03....................May-12-03
2602nv.......................Mar-20-02....................Mar-03-03

Those of us who have followed his history, recall when his reputation was poor, reliability was questionable, and many people had valid complaints that weren't satisfied or addressed.

While he may have turned over a new leaf and is maybe now a valid vendor, he still has a lot of baggage with a lot of members to overcome.

Do a search for ur-gelis and you'll find a LOT of disatisfied clients just amongst the membership here. The previous names also had additional bad history.

He racks up "good" feedback from newbies who don't know from whom to buy, and WHAT to buy, and only later discover they were hood-winked. Sadly those noobies often continue to think it was their fault and not the vendors.

If you look at the shift knob offered, as it has been pointed out, you can see that it is NOT "almost identical".
If it were, the OP would have jumped on that one some time ago.

One person's "equal" is another's "not-even-close", which is where this club is so helpful at finding the CORRECT answers.

FWIW
E

I really wish I still had access to a 3D printer. Makes things soo much easier! After looking at the better pics, I need to revise my artwork a bit more. Hope to have a new prototype made in two weeks.

So is my black plastic faux leather knob and insert factory for 77? When I got the car, the insert was already loose. It stays in by itself simply with friction, but it's not glued.

I wonder if you're better off buying one of the repop fat 5-speed knobs and lathing it down? The shift map is not identical to the original style, but it might still provide decent results.

Anyways, I sympathize with your plight. I managed to find a good used 5-speed thin knob in Japan for a cool $150, but I'm also in need of another, so if anything comes to fruition, I'd be interested in one.

I finally noticed the 5 SPD Euro knob appears to have a drop shadow around the numbers and everything else. The black and white pattern attached here will print to the correct size. To adjust the size of either change the pixels per inch.

Attachment 57303 Attachment 57304

Pet Peeve: There is nothing "euro" about the Datsun / Nissan / Fairlady / S30 / 240-60-80 Z! It's a Japanese car.

So that's ur-gelis, huh? Ha-ha, 72OJ, if it feels good in your hand...

Georgia Bulldogs have a lot of bark, a mean bark, but Gators bite!

Attachment 57305 This is the proper shift knob for a Japanese Classic Sport Motor Car ;)

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Originally Posted by 72 OJ

Attachment 57305 This is the proper shift knob for a Japanese Classic Sport Motor Car ;)

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In your opinion, perhaps. I most certainly do not agree. Too modern, not "Classic" at all.

But that is just my opinion, and others are free to do as they wish.

Well I respect your personal opinion , the original knob/stick and steering wheel replacements are very popular mods from day one, I never liked the truck like stick shift( sits to high ) or the skinny steering wheel ( no grip ) we do to them what we like ;) Attachment 57309 or Attachment 57310

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikes Z car

I finally noticed the 5 SPD Euro knob appears to have a drop shadow around the numbers and everything else.Attachment 57303 Attachment 57304

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That's part of what I'm doing to my art. I'll try using your template, as the scale relative scale and font are correct. Thanks for posting this.

Oiluj,
You are welcome for the post. If you can figure out how to put those drop shadows on a shift pattern I will stand up and salute you smartly!
Mike

Here is what it looks like on a shift knob that I got yesterday that needs sanding and re-varnishing:

Attachment 57320

Mike, What are "drop shadows"?

Captain Obvious,
I am not sure I am using the correct terminology but if you look at the black and white shift knob picture in Koalia's post (post #30 in this thread) there are slightly darker "shadows" that outline the numbers and other markings on that shift knob if I am seeing them correctly. Some fonts come that way though I could not find anything on the net that looked remotely correct for Koalia's shift knob. Wish I knew more about resolution but I think to get those shadows on the shift map artwork I posted a higher resolution is needed, anyone know more about this?
Mike

Mike,

My current art includes a grey drop shadow, but the fony isn't quite right and proportions of the font & shift pattern needs to be adusted. Using yours, I should be able to make it pertty close.

That "drop shadow" is going to be extremely difficult to reproduce in a 2d B/W print.

Isn't the shadow a result of the MOLDED numbers and pattern?

See the following pictures:

Yes, it will not be possible to get 2D drop-shadows to perfectly mimic a 3D feature. My existing art does a pretty good job of reproducing it around the letters, but suprisingly, the circles and shift pattern are actually more difficult.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikes Z car

there are slightly darker "shadows" that outline the numbers

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Mike, Thanks, I got it now.

EScanlon is right in that it is caused by the fact that the numbers and shift pattern are molded and have height to them.

Those shadows are actually white paint on the sloped sides of the raised numbers and lines. From looking at the pics that EScanlon posted, it appears to me that they molded (or maybe vacuum formed) the black part out of black plastic and then painted all the white features on by hand. Then they potted the top part in a clear material.

I wasn't there when they made that thing, but here's what I see happening...
First they mold the black plastic disk.
Then they fill (inlay sorta) the outer two rings with white paint and wipe or buff off the excess resulting in a quality edge.
Then they paint the raised letters.
Then they mold the top dome in a clear acrylic or epoxy.

All for about $1.29 :)

Actually, I believe the entire disk was molded in clear, with the letters and pattern in relief. The characters, rings and pattern are hand painted white and buffed off as noted, and then the entire underside is painted black. Simple and with a minimum of separate steps.

I think Arne is spot on.

That's the same method we use when we paint R/C car bodies or even the HO Scale Lexan bodies that I've painted.

E

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Arne

Actually, I believe the entire disk was molded in clear, with the letters and pattern in relief. The characters, rings and pattern are hand painted white and buffed off as noted, and then the entire underside is painted black. Simple and with a minimum of separate steps.

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And that's why I miss not having access anymore to a 3D printer! :)

Gotcha. I'll go along with that. They could do that for even less than $1.29!! :)

Thanks EScanlon for posting the pictures. I can see the relief in the plastic making the drop shadows. Hmm.. Wonder if a mold could be made from one. The 5 SPD map is so rare I gather that one wouldn't want to risk destroying a map trying to copy it though.

I am looking for the original green 76 - 280 4 speed pattern like the one pictured. I know it's different that the ones already shown, still looking though.
Attachment 57375

mgood,
I don't know if this is worth mentioning. I saw a green 4 spd shift pattern, just the pattern itself no knob, in a box of shift knobs/parts last weekend at :
Datsun Z Doctor
504 E 43rd St Ste A, Boise, ID 83714
phone 208-376-8727
Can't vouch entirely for the condition as I was looking for a B&W 5 spd pattern and wasn't paying that much attention. I don't imagine it will sell soon. Make him an offer and see if he will sell it? He has worked on my car a few times.
Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mgood

I am looking for the original green 76 - 280 4 speed pattern like the one pictured. I know it's different that the ones already shown, still looking though.
Attachment 57375

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You may also try finding a black one and repainting it.

Koalia,
Would you post a few more pictures of your 5 spd shift knob as in your post #30 but straight on to the knob instead of at a slight angle? The distance from the shift knob in post #30 I think is good to make an artwork that might have shadows though a straight on picture should make the "shadows" show up balanced.
Thanks,
Mike

Hi all,

I just stumbled onto this post in my search for a genuine(-ish?) gear knob.

Having been through all the options mentioned in this post. I had already planned to make one too.

I thought I would offer my suggestion to this post for your opinions.

I intend to buy a genuine genuine 4 speed knob and fit a reproduction pattern badge to it.

My idea for the badge is to use a piece of clear plastic and engrave it on a CNC router (I have ordered a Chinese made one for other purposes). This would allow an accurate reproduction of the raised letters and shapes.

I would then paint it as shown in my diagram below.

To finish it off I would attach a clear dome or watch crystal.

A quick search on eBay shows lots of inexpensive watch glass and acrylic domes.
(eg. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LOW-DOME-...#ht_2633wt_906)

Like Mike, I would also like to see some more pictures of Koalia's knob:ermm:.

Hopefully one of us will get this right and we can all get a good result.

Attachment 57446

Cheers
Ian

If you have a CNC router - you would just start with a thick piece of clear acrylic - cut the pattern in the bottom - and cut/form the dome on the top.

FWIW,
Carl B.

GongZ,
Here is a snapshot of the eBay listing for the acrylic watch dome to make this thread longer lasting. Great idea on using a router! Nice graphic showing the process of making a map.
Mike

Attachment 57475

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GongZ

Hi all,


My idea for the badge is to use a piece of clear plastic and engrave it on a CNC router (I have ordered a Chinese made one for other purposes). This would allow an accurate reproduction of the raised letters and shapes.


Cheers
Ian

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This has been my plan from day1-just as Carl said-cut from one thick piece of Acrylic-just waiting on tiny(I mean seriously small-I believe they are being made specifically for me) router bits to make the corners of the numbers sharp instead of rounded. I want it to look exactly right, not "good enough".

If that does not work, I will use my cnc milling machine to mill a mold in some fortal, and cast them.

Pocket cutting always gives the inside "corners" of the pockets the radius of the tool used to cut the pocket-instead of a sharp corner-doing the final cuts with a fine diameter tool will lower that radius-hopefully to unnoticeable, but fine milling plastic with such a small bit may not give acceptable results-even with good sized bits plastic likes to melt/burn with high speed tools.

In the alternate method I can get as sharp an edge as I want on a corner, while it will still be pocket cutting, the areas that need to be sharp have room for crossing cuts to produce sharp(er) edges.


FWIW
Will

Attachment 57625Attachment 57626Attachment 57627I purchased one of those fat shiny knobs but it just doesn't feel good in my hand and when I saw this thread I got an idea.
Found an old metric bolt that fit it, cut off the head mounted it in the drill press. Using a coarse file and 4 different grades of sand paper brought it down to this, not really original looking but much more comfortable and I can see and feel the wood grain now.

Nice job..... and with primitive tools!
Dennis

I wonder if it'd be simpler/better to have the shift map stamped in metal. No worries about it breaking, could be painted to owner's taste, and topped with the watch bevel or a clear filler.
http://www.universalmarking.com/dies.html
http://www.pryormarking.com/marking-...sing-dies.html