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Thread: Nuts and Bolts What to do?

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    Default Nuts and Bolts What to do?

    I have a 73 project I took on and I can't seem to figure out what I am going to do about the hardware. When I got the car it came with a bucket of rusty bolts that I have sorted through and cleaned up. I am not sure I want to try to figure out where they go or if I should order all new hardware. Is it possible to order them all togeteher? Mostly for all the front and rear suspenson right now. Click image for larger version. 

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    Known Zitus carrier! hls30.com's Avatar
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    Admittedly the microfische parts diagrams are difficult to make out useable details, search car-parts.com for a front/rear suspension component near you in a pick and pull, and photograph and strip its bolts-and use the best of what you have...
    Last edited by hls30.com; 01-04-2013 at 08:36 PM.
    A Z is beautiful from any angle, I just happen to prefer to view from the drivers' seat!

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    MMS&accesories from Georgia 800 441-9451 sells stainless kits. Packaged and labeled.

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    Stainless steel is pretty but is considered soft compared most auto-grade bolts. I would do more checking on the use of stainless bolts. Maybe they are SS bolts now that are the same strength.

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    The stainless hardware kit from MMS does not include much of anything for fastening front and rear suspension parts. I think the reason for this is in part to protect themselves from liability issues that could arise, as well as the increased cost that would be associated with supplying these pieces. Other than that, it is a very good kit for someone not too concerned with keeping completely original appearances for the entire rest of the car. Very convenient.

    Bring a list with the correct part numbers of the hardware needed to your local dealer first, if you can't get by with your cleaned up stuff. Then you will will have to check with aftermarket suppliers, some of whom sell in kit form.

    I take an interest in this subject because myself and a local Z buddy/guru have actually undertaken the task to compile a complete list of every fastener on a series 1 Z. We methodically went through the parts catalogs and the microfiche and identified the fasteners, then located the actual physical pieces and measured them and have cataloged the results. But unfortunately thats as far as the project has progressed so far. We don't have anything to sell.
    Last edited by geezer; 01-05-2013 at 02:04 PM.

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    Registered User darom's Avatar
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    I found an Excel spreadsheet on this forum which listed suspension bolt/nut combos + pictures. I stripped the images due to the size of the attachment. I ordered all metric parts from an online vendor (with the exception of some bolts) for my 280z. I thank the person who complied this list.

    With best regards!
    Attached Files Attached Files
    - 1976 280Z
    - 1967 Camaro RS

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    Registered User Hardway's Avatar
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    I ordered all new bolts from Fastenal when I rebuilt my front suspension. Decided to go with grade 10.9 and yellow zinc on everything. I have a thread detective that I used to measure all the bolts. If you are need the dimensions of something specific just let me know as I still have my notebook with all the info.
    08/1970 240z Series-1 #8011 - Silver, black int., 2.4L I-6, 5spd, 90% restored.
    06/1973 VW Karmann Ghia - Black convertible, 4spd, 1600cc air-cooled engine.
    11/2013 Scion FR-S - Silver, 6spd, a car with the soul of a Z for the modern times.
    Restoration thread of my old '72 240z -> http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/o...1972-240z.html

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    Known Zitus carrier! hls30.com's Avatar
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    Mperdue had made a list of the fasteners at one time...I don't remember if it was a spreadsheet or not, but he bought them from Chloe before her disappearance..anyone ever find out what happened to her?
    A Z is beautiful from any angle, I just happen to prefer to view from the drivers' seat!

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    Fired Up! JLPurcell's Avatar
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    The problem with aftermarket bolts is that they do not match the original bolts in regard to the head size. Where the original bolt heads are even sized metric heads (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, etc...) most metric bolt heads are odd (11mm, 13mm, 15mm, etc...) if that matters to you. I just finished wire brushing a complete set of bolts, washers, screws etc... and took them to a plater and had them yellow zinc plated and will pick them up tomorrow and drop off parts ready for clear zinc plate. They turned out nice. I should have posted pics of the process but was in a hurry to get as many parts ready as possible. The prep work is tedious but well worth the final outcome. Not only was the wire brushing difficult but all washers and small parts had to be loosely wired in a daisy chain fashion with fine gauge wire prior to plating.
    Jerry Purcell
    1970 HLS30 00029 Owner since 1976 Now owned by Les Canaday (Classic Datsun Motorsports)
    1972 HLS30 93606 IZCC Registion #105 Original owner back home after full restoration by Classic Datsun Motorsports

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    Quote Originally Posted by JLPurcell View Post
    The problem with aftermarket bolts is that they do not match the original bolts in regard to the head size. Where the original bolt heads are even sized metric heads (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, etc...) most metric bolt heads are odd (11mm, 13mm, 15mm, etc...) if that matters to you. I just finished wire brushing a complete set of bolts, washers, screws etc... and took them to a plater and had them yellow zinc plated and will pick them up tomorrow and drop off parts ready for clear zinc plate. They turned out nice. I should have posted pics of the process but was in a hurry to get as many parts ready as possible. The prep work is tedious but well worth the final outcome. Not only was the wire brushing difficult but all washers and small parts had to be loosely wired in a daisy chain fashion with fine gauge wire prior to plating.
    That must be because you bought DIN spec bolts. JIS bolts will have the same hex head size as the original.
    2/74 260Z

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    Known Zitus carrier! hls30.com's Avatar
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    and sometimes they even have the right finish as bought!
    A Z is beautiful from any angle, I just happen to prefer to view from the drivers' seat!

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    Quote Originally Posted by LeonV View Post
    That must be because you bought DIN spec bolts. JIS bolts will have the same hex head size as the original.
    Thanks for the information. I looked into the stainless package for my car. I forget who was offering them but when I inquired about the head size they were not spec. I should not have assumed that to be the rule. Once again that is what I like about this site it's members hold a wealth of information.
    Jerry Purcell
    1970 HLS30 00029 Owner since 1976 Now owned by Les Canaday (Classic Datsun Motorsports)
    1972 HLS30 93606 IZCC Registion #105 Original owner back home after full restoration by Classic Datsun Motorsports

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    I want to thank all of you for your help. I have located a car that I can remove the bolts from and I will go take a look at it tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes.
    Last edited by bstrudg; 01-06-2013 at 05:35 PM.

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    Default Zinc plated parts! Nuts and Bolts and more!

    Picked up my parts today from the plater, I did not get my clear or black zinc parts ready in time to drop them off so I will have to make another trip to Muncie in the near future. I am very happy with the work. I took some pictures of the small parts which I daisy chained together prior to taking them loose. They came back in a tangled ball but the process worked out well. I had been told that the outcome of the process would be equal to the prep-work. This process was labor intense but well worth the outcome.
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    Jerry Purcell
    1970 HLS30 00029 Owner since 1976 Now owned by Les Canaday (Classic Datsun Motorsports)
    1972 HLS30 93606 IZCC Registion #105 Original owner back home after full restoration by Classic Datsun Motorsports

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    Wow, those look fantastic, Jerry!
    2/74 260Z

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    Quote Originally Posted by bstrudg View Post
    I want to thank all of you for your help. I have located a car that I can remove the bolts from and I will go take a look at it tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes.
    I recommend you bag and tag everything right as it comes off the donor car, don't rely on your memory to tell you where each item is to be used later. Get a box or two of cheap zip bags, some small pieces of paper to label and place in each bag. The mind is the second thing to go, I forgot which is the first.

    Jim Arnett
    HLS30-15320 12/1970, original owner
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    IZCC Original Owner Registry #53

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    I've just used my local Ace Hardware. They had a great selection of 10.9 class. The only issue has been head size, but with all the other issues I've encountered trying to rebuild a 30+ year old car, I sleep just fine.

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    Not quite sure where my mind is right now. The donor car does not look good right now. There were quite a few but so much was missing off the cars and what a rust nightmare at that yard. Just asking the guy about some prices on stuff and he was way high. I am finding parts pulled and shipped to me on ebay for less than what he was asking. My dream would be to find one I could afford and bring home to work off of. I am starting to doubt myself. Thinking I am over my head. I do enjoy doing stuff like this but I want to punch the guy right in the face that I bought this from, and he is a good friend. Who in there right mind would disassemble a car and not take pictures and bag each bolt. Sometimes I enjoy this and other times I am ready to give up. I got the car for $1,500 knowing thats what he bought it for. He put $4,000 into just getting all the rust fixed. I gave him the $1,500 he wanted and I have another $1,250 in brakes, hoses, struts and bushings. I am not sure I could get my money back out at this pint. How can you go about selling a car like this?
    Last edited by bstrudg; 01-07-2013 at 05:25 PM.

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    Registered User LeonV's Avatar
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    Just buy the stainless kit for the non-critical parts and buy the critical fasteners according to the spreadsheets that are out there. I believe Lazeum compiled a pretty good list.
    2/74 260Z

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    Don't know if this helps much but I use a tap and die kit that came with a feeler gauge for pitch to determine what diameter/pitch is needed for a particular bolt hole.

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    Never use suspension bolts twice (ok, let say three times), they expand, you stressed them, you're brinelling the threads as a result the torque/tension relationship is becoming way out. You risk to get bolts to snap or to get loose while driving.

    Here's the link with data you need.

    => Thanks! Leon for the credits
    Matt - 72' 240z

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    Quote Originally Posted by timsz View Post
    MMS&accesories from Georgia 800 441-9451 sells stainless kits. Packaged and labeled.
    This is a good kit for non-structural bolts and fasteners. With only a few exceptions, everything was correct, bagged and labeled. For the structural (suspension) 10.9 bolts, I got most of what I needed from these guys. It was cheaper to buy in bulk than trying to buy just what I needed.

    http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com...6ee848d76c3f4f
    71 240Z - HLS3041257

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    Love these guys too for metric, including JIS sized nuts and bolts.

    https://www.belmetric.com
    -----------------------------------------
    Jim
    73 240Z HLS30 149331
    69 510 PL510 77603

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    Quote Originally Posted by JLPurcell View Post
    Picked up my parts today from the plater
    So about the plating... What process was used for the original factory plating? I know pretty much nothing about the subject, but I've usually heard it referred to as "cad plating", and (because that's what I always heard), I propagated that term. Is it cadmium or zinc?



    Are those parts you just got back done with the same plating material and process as OEM?

    PS - Those parts are beautiful, regardless of the details!

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    Is it Cad or Zinc?
    It seems that some were Cad Plated and some were Zinc. It's been argued about for years.

    I can only tell you the nuts,bolts,washers and other small parts I took to our Materials Lab were Cad Plated. {when I say "our", I mean Honeywell Space Systems}. They have several ways of identifying the specific compounds of any materials, and thus specify the proper handling and disposal procedures for recycling. I'll take their word for it.

    Other people have had parts tested in one way or another - and were told it was Zinc.

    Cadmium was commonly used in the US and around the world in the post WW-II period for corrosion resistance, up until it was classified as a Hazardous Material by the EPA { a heavy metal}. Which in turn subjected the Cadmium and associated plating solutions to expensive control, containment and disposal fees, as well as to EPA harassment.

    Today other than a few Aerospace and Defense contractors or their suppliers - not many Plating companies will use Cadmium for anything. The Plating Shops that can use Cadmium, will charge about three times as much as Zinc plating, because of the additional costs of regulation. {which is not a problem for DOD or NASA}.

    Shops that can't or don't offer Cadmium plating - will tell you it is the same as Zinc. Indeed the finished product can look almost identical. Also over the years the technology of electroplating has advanced and different compounds with Zinc can be almost as good as Cadmium in terms of corrosion resistance, but it takes very sophisticated plating control processes - and again it is more expensive.

    Cadmium is about three times more durable in corrosion resistance than Zinc plating of the same thickness. Parts plated with either Cadmium or Zinc come out a dull sliver in color. The Bright Yellow finish with blue/red highlights is the result of a Yellow Chromate dip. That is another sacrifice coating applied over the top of either Cadmium or Zinc. {kind of a surface sealer if you will}

    Given the appearance of nuts, bolts, washers found on now 40+ year old Z's - I'd have to believe that the guys in the Materials Lab were correct, and that most of the parts were originally Cad Plated. Zinc plated parts simply do not last that long.


    FWIW,
    Carl B.
    Last edited by Carl Beck; 01-08-2013 at 10:08 PM.

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    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Im currently restoring my engine bay and like to use the old bolts, i've heard someone used a tumbler or something to clean up the bolts, can anyone provide me a link for a cheap one? Im in desperate need of one.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koalia View Post
    Im currently restoring my engine bay and like to use the old bolts, i've heard someone used a tumbler or something to clean up the bolts, can anyone provide me a link for a cheap one? Im in desperate need of one.
    Somehow I don't think this link will help you too much, but just in case someone in the states has the same idea...
    http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...sult?q=tumbler
    I would check eBay, Amazon, etc.
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

    Blue's collection of tech tips - A great place to look for answers
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    Koalia---

    Try and get a product called "Metal Rescue".
    Amazon sells it.]
    It is non-caustic and biodegradable.
    It is expensive----about $25 a gallon---but will non-destructively remove rust from all of your fasteners and can be reused for quite some time before it becomes ineffectual. I've done approximately 25 pounds of fasteners with a gallon of it.
    It only attacks the rust and will not damage rubber, glass or plastic.
    I tried the tumbler approach and the results weren't very satisfying--lots of rust left in thread recesses and tight corners.
    It will strip plating from metal if left in the solution too long, but the parts will be clean of rust and ready for re-plating or re-painting after rinsing in water.
    It inhibits rust from reforming for quite some time, although it is not a final step.
    I think if you try it you will like it's results.

    Jim D.
    "Zup"
    Last edited by Zup; 01-09-2013 at 05:31 AM. Reason: source and spelling

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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Beck View Post
    Is it Cad or Zinc? It's been argued about for years.
    Thanks for the details Carl. I've got a buddy who does a lot with antique motorcycle stuff and he often gets parts "cad plated". At least that's what they're telling him...

    Next time he and I get together, I'll poke him a little and try to find out if it's truly cad or if it's really zinc. As you described, they come back dull silver, and not yellow. I've thought about including some parts with his orders, but the results don't look "right" for a Z car. Sounds like it may be a secondary process that could be split stream for his stuff and mine.

    At this point, my Z is pleasure drive only and shouldn't see any inclement weather. Corrosion resistance for things like hardware is still important, but not as important as it used to be. I had not previously been interested in zinc plating, but Jerry's parts look good enough for me and it sounds like the corrosion resistance would be good enough for my application as well.

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    In my research getting ready for my plating project companies I contacted said that Cadmium plating, due to the harmful nature and the EPA, is all but gone with the exception of the aerospace industry. The process is no longer cost effective for other applications. I am sure Carl better understands what they are talking about. One of the vendors that still does cad plating said that they mainly did fasteners for aircraft applications. jlp
    Jerry Purcell
    1970 HLS30 00029 Owner since 1976 Now owned by Les Canaday (Classic Datsun Motorsports)
    1972 HLS30 93606 IZCC Registion #105 Original owner back home after full restoration by Classic Datsun Motorsports

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    Thanks Jerry. I suspect my buddy is getting zinc and doesn't know it.

    How agressive was the wire brushing prep you had to do? Did you have to abrade off all the original plating, or just get the big chunks of grease and rust off?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Obvious View Post
    Thanks Jerry. I suspect my buddy is getting zinc and doesn't know it.

    How agressive was the wire brushing prep you had to do? Did you have to abrade off all the original plating, or just get the big chunks of grease and rust off?
    Philadelphia, I spent a lot of time and money in your city. My son went to LaSalle University.

    I wire brushed the plating off for the most part. I took the rusty fasteners with the phillips bit heads and mounted them on a board and had them fine bead blasted , (just the heads), prior to wire brushing. I am going to try the above product "metal rescue" to see if this will work better than the blasting for those areas that the wire brush will not reach. The problem with that is that I do not believe that the "metal rescue" will remove the paint from down in the phillips bid area of those fastners causing me to still have some parts bead blasted. I found that wire brushing the parts leaves them somewhat polished which seems to leave you with a smoother and brighter finish when plated "out come = to input" You do not have to remove all of the plating but the vendor told me that if you don't it, for a good outcome, it adds a step to the process I had them take that extra step. JLP
    Jerry Purcell
    1970 HLS30 00029 Owner since 1976 Now owned by Les Canaday (Classic Datsun Motorsports)
    1972 HLS30 93606 IZCC Registion #105 Original owner back home after full restoration by Classic Datsun Motorsports

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    ++++++++ HS30-H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Beck View Post
    Is it Cad or Zinc?
    It seems that some were Cad Plated and some were Zinc. It's been argued about for years.

    I can only tell you the nuts,bolts,washers and other small parts I took to our Materials Lab were Cad Plated. {when I say "our", I mean Honeywell Space Systems}. They have several ways of identifying the specific compounds of any materials, and thus specify the proper handling and disposal procedures for recycling. I'll take their word for it.
    I'd rather trust Nissan, thanks.

    As has been discussed so many times before on this forum, there's almost nothing on the early Z cars that was Cadmium plated. Almost everything that was plated was Zinc plated, and the characteristic 'yellow gold' of many nuts, bolts fasteners, brackets and other nick-nacks is simply a passivated finish added after Zinc plating.

    From Nissan technical manuals: 亜鉛 ( 'A-en' ) = Zinc.

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    Jerry, Glad you had enough moolah left after LaSalle to do the Z car parts.

    Thanks again for the details. Sounds just like what I usually hear. Want nice clean shiny smooth results out? Then provide nice clean shiny smooth results in. GIGO.

    OK, now for the (hopefully not) million dollar question... How much? What did you pay for that tangle of parts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Obvious View Post
    Jerry, Glad you had enough moolah left after LaSalle to do the Z car parts.

    Thanks again for the details. Sounds just like what I usually hear. Want nice clean shiny smooth results out? Then provide nice clean shiny smooth results in. GIGO.

    OK, now for the (hopefully not) million dollar question... How much? What did you pay for that tangle of parts?
    Two trips to Muncie, IN 40+ miles each way and their minimum fee. Like I said they are good people and do "car guys" stuff basically as a favor. PM sent.
    Jerry Purcell
    1970 HLS30 00029 Owner since 1976 Now owned by Les Canaday (Classic Datsun Motorsports)
    1972 HLS30 93606 IZCC Registion #105 Original owner back home after full restoration by Classic Datsun Motorsports

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    ZCCIV Webmaster motorman7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carl Beck View Post
    Is it Cad or Zinc?


    Parts plated with either Cadmium or Zinc come out a dull sliver in color. The Bright Yellow finish with blue/red highlights is the result of a Yellow Chromate dip. That is another sacrifice coating applied over the top of either Cadmium or Zinc. {kind of a surface sealer if you will}


    .
    Hi Carl,

    Nice commentary on the plating. The only item that seemed off was the ‘dull silver’ of the plating and the yellow chromate making it shiny. In my plating experience, dull silver will result in dull chromate. If it’s not shiny coming out of the zinc plating bath, the chromate will not make it shinier. Additives to the zinc plating bath allow you to adjust the ‘shiny factor’. That’s the nice feature about doing this at home.

    Also, to get the ‘rainbow’ effect, I use a short 20-30 second dip in blue chromate before the 1-2 minute dip in the yellow chromate. Warm DI rinse after this and heat dry and you are good to go.

    A couple other comments on the whole bolt thing:

    1. The easiest way to go about this is to order new nuts and bolts on line as a number of others have noted. Unless you are going for a ZCON gold medallion, very few people will notice that your bolt heads are off. Only the few of us anal retentive Z-junkies will notice. Just make sure they are quality parts.

    2. If you do send your parts to a plating service, they will throw all of the parts in a big bucket and leave you to sort these out. Even with great pictures it will be difficult to get the correct bolt in the correct hole for final assembly. Just something to consider. If you install the wrong bolt in the wrong place and try it in several other places, now you have worn your plating off.

    a. Another issue with sending out to plate is you may not like the plate job. Parts could come back dull, too dark, etc. (That’s why I started doing my own)
    b. If you go this route, make sure you have all the parts you want to plate in that batch. Will cost time and money to go back for second and third plating batch.
    c. If you don’t do your own prep work, this gets expensive as you will pay by the hour for them to wire wheel/sand blast your parts. Also as stated here several times, GIGO, the parts have to look good and clean before they go to the plater.
    d. No guarantee you will get the parts back that you sent in. You may get some additional, may lose some.

    3. If you do choose to do your own plating, it will cost about $500 for a decent set-up. I personally use the Caswell product with a B-K power supply. ‘Blue’ has a very good write-up on the whole plating process which would be good to read before moving in this direction.
    a. Only go in this direction if you plan on doing this on a number of cars, otherwise it is not very cost effective.
    b. The beauty of this is that you can plate whenever you want and get your parts done same day if needed. You can also make adjustments to the system to get the exact finish you are looking for.
    c. Also, I use the zip lock baggy method and label all parts in small batches. When I plate, I plate one baggy at a time and keep them organized. Makes assembly much simpler and saves time searching for parts. Zip-loc’s, one of the best tools in my tool box.
    Anyway, just my thoughts and good luck.

    Best regards,
    Rich

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

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    Boat Anchor Repairman Captain Obvious's Avatar
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    This is a great thread.

    Koalia, Hope you don't mind all the plating discussion.

    Jerry, PM back to you.

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    Formerly known as Koalia Reverend's Avatar
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    Not at all! Im interested in plating too as i have loads of parts that need to be plated
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Crazy question, the bolts that hold on the front lower control arms will not fit through the crossmember. I have two different sets that I know are correct, why will they not fit trought?

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    Your question is weird. I guess it is because the bolt is not the right size or because the parts don't line up perfectly or because something is bent.
    Matt - 72' 240z

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    I too have investigated the plating process. So far I have been using a large wire brush mounted to a bench grinding machine. Laborious holding a bolt for a while at all angles; but it does make them shiny! The cheapest fake self plating kit I saw was about $54 for a three stage zinc/cadmium kit from Eastwood with less than stellar reviews on Amazon.

    It's looking like many of my nuts and bolts will either be clear coated or painted Datsun engine blue to contrast the polished aluminum parts.

    I recently purchased the double barrel rock tumbler from Harbor Freight Tools. Looking back, I could have gone with the single barrel. I bought some rust removal product from the same store, as well as a 40/70 glass mixture. I filled the barrel about 2/3 of the way with the rust removal product (small glass feeling pyramids with a funky smell), put water up to that level, then threw my bolts, nuts, and washers in. I wrote down which ones they were. They were pretty greasy, and the ones that weren't greasy had some rust in the threads and on their heads.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    After 24 hours of it running in my garage, I checked out the bolts and they looked pretty clean and most of the rust-removal product had turned to a dirty sludge. I decided to stop the machine and rinse all the parts off and to restart them in the 40/70 grit mixture. It says it won't harm soft materials, and I'm hoping it'll polish them a little bit. I'll check on them in another 12 hours or so.

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    Overall I'm happy with the results so far and it lets me do other stuff while the machine is running. It's not too loud.
    http://www.hookit.com/members/triingsoldier/

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    I've used my ammo brass vibrating cleaner for some small parts, nuts and bolts with walnut shell media. It does a great job of cleaning them up, but leaves them very dull kind of light gray color. Just a thought.
    75 280Z almost done
    49 Chevy 3100 p/u next project
    96 Dodge 2500 4X4 tows my 5th wheel

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    Quote Originally Posted by 73str86 View Post

    Click image for larger version. 

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    After 24 hours of it running in my garage, I checked out the bolts and they looked pretty clean and most of the rust-removal product had turned to a dirty

    Overall I'm happy with the results so far and it lets me do other stuff while the machine is running. It's not too loud.
    What will you do with them once they are clean?? Once you have removed all of the zinc with the tumbling process you will be down to the bare steel. Anything not protected after this will rust unfortunately.

    HLS30-02614 in the Cocoon
    HLS30-40147 Very Yellow Daily Driver
    HLS30-40498 Next resto
    SPL311-27444 It lives
    http://www.rcdeng.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by bstrudg View Post
    Crazy question, the bolts that hold on the front lower control arms will not fit through the crossmember. I have two different sets that I know are correct, why will they not fit trought?
    I ran in to this same issue when reassembling the front suspension on my '72. First, make sure you are putting the bolt in from the front side so that the head is basically sitting behind the steering accordion boot. You may have to move your wheels to get the boots out of the way. Second, you have to have the bolt in exactly straight. The hole seems just big enough for it to go in perfectly. I got mine on and gently tapped it with a rubber mallet to coax it in. Once it was about 1/4 of the way in they slid all the way in and out the other side.
    08/1970 240z Series-1 #8011 - Silver, black int., 2.4L I-6, 5spd, 90% restored.
    06/1973 VW Karmann Ghia - Black convertible, 4spd, 1600cc air-cooled engine.
    11/2013 Scion FR-S - Silver, 6spd, a car with the soul of a Z for the modern times.
    Restoration thread of my old '72 240z -> http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/o...1972-240z.html

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    I have done the same, except not with tumbler but with chemical solution. Im planning to zinc spray them, should give adequate protection.
    -72 240Z "Goldie"

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    Default Gold Zinc Plating

    I have a local plating company (Orange, CA) that will do small batches for cash.
    The results are very close to the original CAD plating. Here are the fuel sender retaining ring, fuel filler neck and tank hanger bolts after bead blasting and "Gold Zinc Plating".
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Compare the gas cap (NOS original filler cap, I'm assuming is CAD plated). It's too close to tell except by the most careful of inspection.
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    I also shoot everything with a clear 'satin finish' spray to milk out a few more years.
    I'm slowly plating every scrap of exposed metal every chance I get - throttle linkage, fuel rail, fuel filter clip, Air filter wing-bolts, hood latch.
    Looks awesome against the red paint!

    I do also have a Harbor Freight 5lb "vibratory tumbler" (noisy SOB). It works well provided I use new sand - I just use playground sand from Home Depot.
    The sand gets ground down pretty quickly (imagine those little glass bits that end up on the beach). I toss the old sand after every use. Seems to get into all the nooks-and-crannies quite well. Have to run the damn thing for 5-8 hours.

    1971 240z
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    Last edited by bvolken; 02-07-2013 at 07:29 PM. Reason: Add more info and again.

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