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Thread: Strut mount bearings?

  1. #1
    Barn Find Daily Driver Captain_Zeros's Avatar
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    Default Strut mount bearings?

    Ok, I'm feeling like an idiot here, I'm replacing my front shocks and a number of suspension bushings on my '73 240z and I keep finding references to strut mount bearings that I don't seem to have.
    Could somebody post a picture of how everything goes together at the top of the front struts? I have a sinking suspicion that whoever did this job last just left the damn things out. Pictures would help me see either where I ought to be looking if I'm massively overlooking things, or where new ones ought to go when I put this thing together correctly.


    edit: photo of where I think it might supposed to be?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Captain_Zeros; 02-14-2013 at 03:49 PM. Reason: added picture

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    Yes, there should be a bearing should between those two parts.

    Look at #53 here - Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z Front Suspension (Strut & Shock Absorber)

    and the Front Axle chapter in the FSM (any S30 FSM, they all have them) - XenonS30


    Maybe they were trying to lower the front end?...
    1976 280Z, with some minor modifications

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    Registered User mlc240z's Avatar
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    Rock Auto has them for about $14 each.
    Bart

    5/71 240z, HLS30-31306, mostly stock, ZTherapy SU's, Pertronix, Eibach ProKit, KYB, Poly bushings, 60 amp alternator w/Dave's plug bypass, headlight and parking light harness upgrades.

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    One additional thing to think about is bump stops. Especially if you decide to lower the front end. The ones available now are urethane and not vary hard . So if you do bottom out it is not harsh. I lowered the front of my 240 just a little over 2'' cutting the coil springs. I needed to add adjustable camber pins to realign the camber. But that was vary easy to do. My car corners flat now and with no air dam even at above 100 the front does not feel light like it did before. I also lowered the rear a little so she sets about 3/8'' lower in front. Not wanting to steel the thread here , but since you are right there and may have the inclination....
    All the best Gary
    I'd rather die while I am living than live while I am dieing. CZC 1887 IZCC 12602 Member of NorthWest Z Car Club

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    Barn Find Daily Driver Captain_Zeros's Avatar
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    Yeah, I've got new urethane bump stops ready to go in, I figured while I'm replacing some seriously haggard old shocks I'd replace the matching haggard old bushings with urethane (except the tension rods, I've heard too many horror stories for me to wanna bother risking it, they get new rubber bushings). I've enough lowness though, my Z has been riding about an inch lower than it did 40 years ago according to some numbers I looked up (I forget where) and there are already speed bumps in my neighborhood I can scrape my floors on.

    Thanks for confirming me on the strut bearings guys, that's what I thought was up but I wanted to get a second opinion to make sure I wasn't going crazy.

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    Registered User EuroDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_Zeros View Post
    I'd replace the matching haggard old bushings with urethane (except the tension rods, I've heard too many horror stories for me to wanna bother risking it, they get new rubber bushings).
    This problem (tension rod breaking) is mostly caused by PU bushings with a very shallow groove around the outside. My Energy Suspension kit had them and it caused the car to jump when I went around bumpy corners. I found a set with a much deeper groove, but opted for the T/C kit from MSA Motorsport! Tension Rod T/C Kit, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts since I was roughly the same price. I used an OEM rubber on the back and it works fine.
    Chas

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    Barn Find Daily Driver Captain_Zeros's Avatar
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    Funny you should mention that, I've got a very similar ball and socket setup on my car already except they're ancient and worn out. My plan is to reinstall the worn ball and socket joints temporarily and put new oem rubber on the back and see how it drives before deciding if I need to order up another set for another $35+shipping of my precious pocket change because of how easy the tension rods are to remove and work on.

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    Crumudgeon
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    Also remember that the urethane inner lower control arm bushing needs a tightening process different then what's in the FSM. The OEM bushing relies on the hysteresis of the rubber for movement while the urethane busing rotates around the inner metal bushing. Tightening the 14mm bolt to the factory spec can seriously bind the bushing in place. I've had customer cars come in where the bushing is so bound I could almost do a pullup in the control arm before it moved. Before putting the strut back on the arm, tighten the control arm bolt to the factory spec and make sure the arm moves easily. If it doesn't, back off on the bolt torque. I also suggest using new Nylock nuts every time.

  9. #9
    Registered User pacemkr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Coffey View Post
    Also remember that the urethane inner lower control arm bushing needs a tightening process different then what's in the FSM. The OEM bushing relies on the hysteresis of the rubber for movement while the urethane busing rotates around the inner metal bushing. Tightening the 14mm bolt to the factory spec can seriously bind the bushing in place. I've had customer cars come in where the bushing is so bound I could almost do a pullup in the control arm before it moved. Before putting the strut back on the arm, tighten the control arm bolt to the factory spec and make sure the arm moves easily. If it doesn't, back off on the bolt torque. I also suggest using new Nylock nuts every time.
    This is excellent advice, and perfect timing also.
    I am re-assembling my front end tonight and had no idea about this binding issue. thanks

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