Glove Box door and light switch

[ddezso]

I was poking around as usual today and I noticed the light switch inside my glove box. I popped a bulb in and to my delight it worked.

Here's the problem (and I'm sure this is quite typical). The glove box door is warped so it doesnt depress the switch button and turn off the light.

It looks like a new door from MSA is $80.
Any ideas on clean ways to extend the switch plunger to make it longer and therefore turn off the switch with the warped door I have?
Of course, I can also try to extend the door area where it is supposed to hit the switch, or both.

Has anyone ever successfully 'unwarped' one of these doors?
Finally, I have pictured the door. The 'Datsun' and the '240Z' on the front are black. The car is build date 11/70. I have seen other pictures where those are chrome. Has the chrome worn off of mine or is black correct for that model?

[Arne]

As a stopgap, you could stick one of those self-adhesive rubber feet that come with some electronic items on the inside of the door where the plunger hits. That should be enough to turn off the light.

I can't think of any non-destructive way to un-warp the door. Luckily, mine is fairly straight.

The Datsun 240Z lettering on mine is not chrome, but more of a matte finish silver. I suspect that has faded or worn off of yours.

[ddezso]

Cool - I think I'll go find some little feet at Home Depot - I know they sell that stuff. I'd love for anyone else to weigh in on the silver lettering.
Thanks,
D

[kenz240z]

You might try adjusting the latch mechanism. I think there is a U shaped bar that the latch catches on that can be adjusted. Maybe you can get the door to pull in a little further and push the plunger in a bit more. If not, then Arne's suggestion of using a rubber foot is a good one.

I'm experimenting with a couple of things for refreshing the silver finish in the interior. The local Hobby Lobby craft store has a couple of different Silver Leaf products that are used for duplicating a metal finish.

I found a wax based product called Rub 'n Buff silver leaf 76370K that might work well. It looks like it will give a good satin silver finish. I'm going to try it on a few interior items.

I'm also going to try some silver leaf foil. It's a bit more involved to work with, as it requires an adhesive to get it to stick to the surface you want to highlight. Once it is trimmed it can be coated with a gloss sealer, which I hope might give more of a chrome like appearance.


I'll post photos of the results when I get it done.

[Arne]

If it's supposed to be shiney chrome, here's an idea from a different thread. I'm going to look into this for my heater panel.

http://classiczcars.com/forums/showp...38&postcount=4

[Victor Laury]

I have found a new product .. I've used the good ol black sharpie as a detail tool for years... NOW they have a metalic silver sharpie that is absolutely PERFECT for redoing those letters! Much more control. The worse thing is a paint brush in my monkey fisted hands.

[EScanlon]

The rubber pad will work any time, but I think the latch, as Ken mentioned, is going to make more of a difference.

From the two pics of the door closed, you can see that the top edge of the door is not even with the surrounding dash. Adjust that unevenness and it should clear the problem up.

E¢

[ddezso]

I messed with the U shaped part of the mechanism and that wasnt it. Turns out the door was latching wrong. The top part of the latch has 3 prongs. The middle prong needs to be lifted up (in my case by depressing the door button) so the U shaped holder will fit inside. Previously, it was all just getting wedged in there. So.....to close my door I have to press the button while closing it but it closes tighter and the light turns off.

Is everyone SURE those letters on the outside of the door are supposed to be silver on a 1970? I have the silver pen and was going to have a go at it like I did the silver parts of my radio faceplate but want to make sure it's not supposed to be black on a 1970.

Thanks...

[Arne]

My car is a lower number than yours (12746 vs. 14160) built in 10/70. Mine is considered an early '71, and I suspect your is the same. The letters on mine are silver....

[kinfish]

Glovebox letters on my 12/70 Series I 240Z are also silver.

My door also has the old age, warping problem probably caused by heat exposure. The flimsy plastic could not tolerate the load imposed by the wimpy spring in the light contact. Door pinned in middle due to latch. Never thought about moving the light to the other side ...... but that would make both ends stick out? Best solution is take bulb out and keep tiny flashlite inside glove box.

[Zulaytr]

To remove the warp in the door you can use a heat gun to warm the door then apply pressure on it. Be sure to heat up the lid carefully. Keep the heat gun moving across the top edge and on both sides. Lay the door on a flat surface and then apply pressure gently. If you take your time you can straighten it back out again.

Bob
72 240Z

[hls30-08752]

I was wondering about the lettering on my glove box has anyone seen the lettering in a bronze ish copper color?