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Thread: sound deadener/heat shielding

  1. #1
    Registered User trykflyr's Avatar
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    Default sound deadener/heat shielding

    As I gutted my project 76 280, about 90% of the sound deadener/ heat shielding came off the floorboards (NO RUST!! YAY!!!!!), tranny tunnel and deck. Anyone know of a decent replacement material available? This stuff looks like truck bed Rhino lining without the grit. I was thinking of just adhereing some heavyweight rubberized sheet to the steel and covering that with insulating foam under the carpet.....

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    Registered User Rockr69's Avatar
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    So I'm guessing, you get to drive your car about a month out of the year? Anyway check out link, http://www.dynamat.com/store/store-car.asp
    Dan

    1976 280z HLS30-299271
    1983 Maxima (my Hooptie)
    1990 F-150 4X4
    1989 Honda Accord (Wife's Car)

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    1978 280Z (stock) TomoHawk's Avatar
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    Do a search. there's a lot of info on this.
    Drive Responsibly.
    enjoy classic Rock music.

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    HLS30165540
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    dynomat or brown bread all the same
    The 1973 240Z 165540 Slightly modified. L28, 5sp, cam, headers, MSD 6AL, power windows, power door locks, leather seats, custom this and custom that.

  5. #5
    Registered User trykflyr's Avatar
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    Thanks, all. I get to drive it about 4 months. I haven't got this one running right yet, I have about 9 months of winter coming to get it hammered out. Gotta do something during the cold and dark......

  6. #6
    Back in the saddle again. Poindexter's Avatar
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    I gotta tell you that I spent a huge amount of time researching this topic. I ended up talking to reps from all of the major companies that produce these products, and IMO the people at Cascade Products have several fantastic products. I am NOT connected to them or any other supplier in any way, btw.

    What I came up with is using 4 different kinds of materials- from a thin "super aluminum foil"-type product inside the door skins, and also cut in strips to seal the meeting edges of the other layers. There is a slightly thicker layered material that I'll fit almost everywhere including inside the outer door skins. Then a thick pad on the floorboards, covered by more 2mm product to seal. They also have a paintable heat-resistant product, but I'm hesitant to do anything that's not reversible- and would permanently hide the underlying metal from inspection. It might add 20 pounds to the car but I would rather get rid of any rattling or potential exhaust leaks. I'm installing from firewall to hatch, from shoulder to shoulder- virtually the entire tub!

    Take a look at their website -- cascadeaudio.com --and give them a call so they can explain further. I spent almost 45 minutes on the phone going over every aspect of the procedure and they answered every question. But then again so did the other manufacturers too, but Cascade's variety of materials, and their proprietary layering made the difference. One thing to avoid- any product made with any kind of asphalt material. Any significant heat and these products will slump, and may smell badly too. These are usually only found in the cheaper products.

    This is my major summer project. Here's their application chart so you can get an idea. Good luck!

    Last edited by Poindexter; 06-30-2008 at 12:46 AM.

    2/71 240Z, HLS30-23788. 920 Gold/Black. California car. 5-speed, otherwise all original/paint, stickers & matching #'s. Driven almost daily over my local "road course" along a river. Performing thorough mechanical restoration, using only OEM parts to not ruin the provenance as an "original" car. Please check out my Flickr photostream!
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    Registered User trykflyr's Avatar
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    thanks again. I've found some stuff at the local audio place that might work. I'll do the homework on all this and figure out what to put where when I start rebuilding the innards in March. We use gravel on the roads here instead of salt. It's too cold for salt to work and anything that may melt will refreeze in seconds anyway. Good for the rockerpanels, bad for the windshields!! Come April, it sounds like someone threw 10 lbs of rocks in a dryer when you drive. Thick undercoating is a big plus!

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    Registered User Walt76280Z's Avatar
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    I used a product from RAAM Audio that was about half the price of Dynamat and far more pliable. It had noise and heat shielding built in... you just have to watch it as it is a bit sticky.

    I have one pic posted in my gallery here, and I may have more on the PC. Send me an e-mail or PM if you want me to dig them up.

    Website:

    http://www.raamaudio.com

    Walt
    Walt Stephenson
    1976 280Z HLS30 288850

    Z Club of Houston Member

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