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Thread: NOS Dash Blues

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    Default NOS Dash Blues

    OK, I have had an 70,000 mile unmolested 1972 240Z for a few years now and in that time redid the mechanicals and suspension.
    Knowing I had a cracked dash I found an NOS dash a couple of years ago. It had a 1982 date code and was uninstalled and still in the original box.
    Well I recently went to install it and what a disappointment!
    Nothing lines up! The glove box opening is to low, the hazard switch hole is too far to the right and what a struggle getting the thing back in the car. I had to bend and force the thing to get the mounting holes right and there is a big gap in between the control console and dash.
    I don't know if this thing tweeked in storage or it was never manufactured right in the first place but frankly the only good thing is it is not cracked.
    If I had it to do over again I would have had the original dash redone.

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    Maybe it's for a 280 or 260?
    things will only bother you if you let them.

    82 280zxt 4 spd auto
    73 240z--lsd, cv axles
    short throw info

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    Pictures???? Something is wrong…
    The original box should have a Part Number - what was that?

    Carl B.

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    Default Dash Pics

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	240Z Dash console.jpeg 
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ID:	70140Click image for larger version. 

Name:	240Z Dash glove.jpeg 
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ID:	70141Click image for larger version. 

Name:	240Z Dash Part Number.jpeg 
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ID:	70142

  5. #5
    Jim Arnett jfa.series1's Avatar
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    The online catalogue confirms your P/N for models up thru 72/06. For 72/07 and after it is 68100-N3300. What is the exact build date on your car?
    Last edited by jfa.series1; 03-09-2014 at 01:34 PM.

    Jim Arnett
    HLS30-15320 12/1970, original owner
    L24-020208 (original)
    IZCC Original Owner Registry #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by jfa.series1 View Post
    The online catalogue confirms your P/N for models up thru 72/06. For 72/07 and after it is 68100-N3300. What is the exact build date on your car?
    Mine is well before that HLS3057797.
    The build quality is crap. I'll keep tweaking it to try to get it as close as possible, just frustrating when you buy NOS and have to deal with crappy fit, though finish wise it is nice.

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    Frogsquisher Zup's Avatar
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    Ventured guess---
    1. Warped glove box door inner panel from 40 years of the glove box light and spring assembly pushing against the inner panel. It sets a bend into the glove box door that usually creates a gap that is widest near the switch.
    2. A mounting tab on either the dash or the control panel (or both) is bent or otherwise misaligned as it appears the gap closes down and is closer to fitting properly to the left side of the control panel.

    Dang, I sure hope you can adjust it out---NOS dashes are a very rare and quite expensive item now, and I am sure the rest of your Z is very nice or you wouldn't have made the plunge for one when you purchased it!
    May the Z gods be with you!

    Jim D.
    "Zup"

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    Thanks for the ideas Zup. I'll check the glove box door, I hadn't.t thought to check it as it fit in the original dash fine.
    The dash mounting points in the center all lined up so I don't think that is the issue.
    It seems like the whole vinyl and padding part of the dash is off from the center to the passenger side, that's why I was guessing at long term storage as a possible issue (maybe stood on end the last 30 years?).
    I'll keep working on it and tweek some of it out but it still looks a lot better than the original, even with the gaps.

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    Is it possible that it is in a NOS box but is a rebuilt dash- Just Dashes.....? A Just Dashes rebuild could have different padding and finish dimensions. Does the dash surface look identical to your original?

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    Jonathan,

    Anything's possible but the dash frame is pristine and all the mounting points were untouched and showed no mounting marks that I could see. The material looks like my original.
    I have found a couple of internet posts of others that had sub par NOS dashes.
    Has anyone on here bought one with issues?

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    I bought one from Courtesy Nissan around 9 years ago.
    It is still in the original shipping box---never removed---and stored inside the house in the horizontal position.
    Your post has me a little worried that mine may have issues that I had never given a thought about.
    I may unbox it this weekend and give it the once over to see.
    If I do, I'll post up some photos.

    Jim D.
    "Zup"

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    I too bought a new one when I was restoring my Z, I do remember that I had to adjust the Glovebox door and catch. I also needed to tweak the mounting tabs for the Center Vent Assy. Looking at the pics, I suggest that you look at it again and try to bend the tabs in a little at a time on the center vent area. For the Glovebox door, I seem to remember there is some wiggle room on the hinge, there are slots where the screws go through to allow for some adjustment. Try removing the catch and adjust the door until it is where you want it - replacing the catch when you are done... Remember to be patient with this old plastic -even though the dash's mfr date is more recent, the center vent and GB door may be less forgiving. Snap/crack some of these interior pieces and you'll be "Attached to another object by an inclined plane, wrapped helically around an axis"...
    Andrew (ZCurves)
    1978 Coupe - HLS30-440105
    Spring, Texas USA

    pro deo et patria
    My Albumz

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    Bought a right hand dash for the Fairlady, hope I don't have the same problem.
    10/69 Fairlady ZL 5-speed
    '72 240Z
    '09 Nissan Altima Coupe

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZCurves View Post
    I too bought a new one when I was restoring my Z, I do remember that I had to adjust the Glovebox door and catch. I also needed to tweak the mounting tabs for the Center Vent Assy. Looking at the pics, I suggest that you look at it again and try to bend the tabs in a little at a time on the center vent area. For the Glovebox door, I seem to remember there is some wiggle room on the hinge, there are slots where the screws go through to allow for some adjustment. Try removing the catch and adjust the door until it is where you want it - replacing the catch when you are done... Remember to be patient with this old plastic -even though the dash's mfr date is more recent, the center vent and GB door may be less forgiving. Snap/crack some of these interior pieces and you'll be "Attached to another object by an inclined plane, wrapped helically around an axis"...
    Thanks for the tips. I'll keep working on it. The glove box door hinge has lots of adjustment, you are right there, but the pic I sent is the best fit I could get. The whole padded dash part is shifted down and left on that end relative to the dash frame so the dash light switch cannot make contact because it is too high and the door binds on the right side even after all adjustment.
    I think I can tweek the center vent assembly brackets to reduce the gap, I just hate flexing the dash because the end result on a 30 year old new dash pad could be CRAAACK! Let's hope that is not what happens.

    I'll post the results good or bad.

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    Sometimes, you have to stop to wonder why a NOS part is still available in the original box 40 years after it was made. Could be it was defective from the factory and set aside 40 years ago.

    I've found that to be the case with a NOS steering wheel I bought for my Avanti. It was a "factory second" but much better than the one it was replacing.
    Dennis
    1971 240Z - Original Owner
    2010 Infiniti G37 Convertible

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    Quote Originally Posted by psdenno View Post
    Sometimes, you have to stop to wonder why a NOS part is still available in the original box 40 years after it was made. Could be it was defective from the factory and set aside 40 years ago.

    I've found that to be the case with a NOS steering wheel I bought for my Avanti. It was a "factory second" but much better than the one it was replacing.
    Dennis
    Dennis, I think you might be on to something. But like your steering wheel, with all the bull%#*t I had with this dash, it is worlds away better than what I took out.
    Now on to the door panels which have never been out of the box.

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    Quote Originally Posted by midman View Post
    Dennis, I think you might be on to something. But like your steering wheel, with all the bull%#*t I had with this dash, it is worlds away better than what I took out.
    Now on to the door panels which have never been out of the box.
    Gotta love the surprises that come with working with old cars
    Good luck with the door panels!
    Dennis
    1971 240Z - Original Owner
    2010 Infiniti G37 Convertible

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    Quote Originally Posted by midman View Post
    Dennis, I think you might be on to something. But like your steering wheel, with all the bull%#*t I had with this dash, it is worlds away better than what I took out.
    Now on to the door panels which have never been out of the box.
    midman,
    When you get to the door panels, something that may save you distress later has to do with the little metal clips that fasten to the
    door panel backer board (masonite) and clip into the metal door frame. The part of these clips that press into the little plastic cups
    placed in the door frame are adjustable. I found it very helpful if, before attachingthese clips to the door panel, insert them by hand
    into the metal door frame to test tightness of fit. If too tight, pinch them with pliars slightly so that, when installed with
    the door panel, the panel can be removed at a later date without breaking out the holes and damaging the masonite backer board.

    I may be talking about the obvious, but it never hurts to revisit techniques that can prevent damaging parts down the road.

    Dan
    Last edited by AZ-240z; 03-16-2014 at 06:44 PM.
    Original Owner/1971 240Z
    Gold Medallion/First place Stock Class/2012 ZCON

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    Very good advice you've given here Dan!


    midman---
    I just installed new panels this last weekend. Here is what I did.
    Articulate the clips to match the panel holes and the holes in the door before applying sufficient pressure to drive the clip into the cup.
    I mean these clips must be lined up correctly before applying pressure or you risk damaging the vinyl from the head of the clip, as there is only a thin layer of non-woven batting between the clip head in the door panel hole and the backside of the vinyl. Install the door panel from the lock knob portion of the panel forward to the front of the window frame in a hinging motion using firm downward pressure with the window rolled slightly up so you can see it from the top of the door. Once you have the top of the panel securely pressed into position work down from the top to the bottom of the panel.
    Crouch on your knees and/or lay on your back as required and pivot the clips in the door panel hole so that you can visually determine that the clip lines up with the cup in the door.
    Use the rubber butt end of a hammer centered over the clip as you push firmly to drive the clip into the cup.
    It took me a little while to get the hang of it, but all went smoothly, and the new panels look great!

    As Dan said---not meaning to overstate the obvious--- just passing along my recent experience

    Best of luck---you deserve it after fighting with the dash!

    Jim D.
    "Zup"

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