240K GT parts

[khughes]

hi Guys,

well, i have managed to snap up the 240K GT that was recently on ebay.. It is a 72 model (complied in australia 1/73) and it is build number 280! i know it wasn't probably the smartest buy.. considering my other project.. but i just can't resist sometimes!

unfortunately the car was a bit of an ongoing "project" and most of the bits of the car have been lost including the original engine, gearbox, bonnet, rear light panel, dash cluster, seats.. it was destined to have some form of V8 in it, but i am looking to fix her up and try and bring her back to a somewhat original look. the car is moslty stripped at the moment, so i am looking at fixing the remaining rust, get her painted again, and then put her all back together using some of the other parts i have lying around.

from what i can gather, the rear lights are original, it has the GT door cards, dash top is in good condition (though probably re-covered), and the Diff looks original (no idea what condition it is in though).

from what i can find, the only other really functional difference between the GT's and the GL's was that it came with a MPH/KMH speedo..

If anyone finds one of these in their travels, or knows of the whereabouts of one.. can you please let me know!!

Kent

[Mastadd240K]

Mid to early 73 coupes had the mph&Kph clusters as well if that helps. ill keep an eye out for you,

Goodluck

[Alfadog]

That's right, early cars with the MPH & KPH speedos.

[240kconvertible]

Just out of curiousity Kent how many K's have you owned or helped people buy?

You are by far one of the worlds most committed C110 fans

[khughes]

it is now my 4th 240k coupe.. (in as many years).. only one of those were complete cars.. and the others have all been "complete cars that just needed to be put together (yeah right!).. so that would make only 5 cars i have had the pleasure of being involved with! i am hoping that one day i will find a C10!

and i think commited might be the right term

thanks guys, would appreciate it if you ever see something..

[240kconvertible]

Spewing you only just bought the coupe, if it had off been bought a year ago I could've given my engine and gearbox to you.

I just gave away a heap of parts to SWR including Hilux calipers and old school mags, front end and rear end. If you need any of those parts I'm sure they'd give you a good price maybe even free.

I'm hoping to be able to afford a C10 GTr one day as I love them soooooooo much. They look so hot.

[Mastadd240K]

ive got a genuine k 4spd if you want it.... out of my coupe

[aarc240]

Kent, there's a lot more different than those few items.

Speedo is MPH only, not dual MPH/KPH.
Odometer is 5 digit.
Oil pressure is imperial.
Water temp is imperial.
Dash does not have the parking brake and brake system warning lights in the lower right corner.
Tacho has the brake system warning light in the lower centre.
Air vents are rectangular.
Front and rear springs are lower and stiffer.
The ADR plate describes the car as a "DATSUN GT COUPE".

If you really want to go down the rebuild path, work out your plan and get in touch.
I've got a complete (stuffed) 240K GT for spares plus some of the unique parts out of another one.
The "DATSUN GT COUPE" ADR plates for those two cars are not for sale.

[aarc240]

btw, there's actually a s**t pile more 'little' differences to deal with for a really good restoration!
oh, and I forgot about those taillights. They are not original GT parts, they are JDM items.
The JDM lights do NOT comply with the Australian ADR's applicable at the time of manufacture and could not be fitted by Nissan.

[khughes]

Hi Arc,

that is some awesome information.

I will need to see what the car is missing on saturday afternoon when i pick it up, but i know that all the instrumentation is missing (including the bezel), i didn't check when i looked at it, but i assume the dash is the original one just recovered.

Unofrtunately it looks like the car was half pulled apart a number of years ago, then it has moved from place to place.. and some of the important parts have gone walkabout. The guy has obviously been picking up bits and pieces as he went.. but i am not confident he knew exactly what he was looking for

do you happen to have a picture of the rear beaver panel? the one that "comes" with the car has a different datsun badge (almost like what i remember the sedan one to be) to what i have seen before, and it had a GL badge on it, so i presume it is not the original.

I would be very interested in any GT parts that you can spare (including all the dash bits).. i will pm you on the weekend.

I guess i should be hunting for some more 240k GT pics by the sounds of it!

[Alfadog]

Art, not all of those are differences between GT and GL. Some are differences between early and late model cars, and some I question are differences at all (never seen a 240K with anything other than a 5-digit odo...)?

Kent, there were two "early" rear Datsun badges as far as I'm aware. One has black text (never actually seen one on a car) and the other has white. Are you sure the badge you have on this isn't just a later model badge? Got a picture of it?

[khughes]

the only pic i have is this one (the one in the auction). i will certainly have a lot more on saturday!

[aarc240]

Lachlan,
You're right that some are early vs later cars, just pointing out those that are very specific to the 'earliest' of the earlies.
I've inspected a couple of supposed GT's that somehow 'lost' their ADR plates which owners were trying to sell at inflated prices, both were doctored early GL's with no provenance traceable to Nissan.
Maybe the 6 digit odometer that I pulled out of a '75 240K is actually a later release OEM replacement part?? Dunno & really don't care!

Kent,
There is a spare DATSUN badge which could have been any colour (nothing evident now). May have another in white. Like Lachlan, I've seen the black badge but not on a car.
I'll get a pic tomorrow of the original on our better car.
Rear panel may be a problem, at least in very good or better condition. I have a spare but it's what I would deem restorable.

[Mr Camouflage]

Is there something wrong with the rear panel thats on it?

[aarc240]

Good question.
If Nissan have done their usual thing then the panel itself may well have exactly the same holes in it that the original GT one had.
If that is the case, just a matter of replacing the badges.
If not a little rework with a MIG or TIG welder would be easier and cheaper than sourcing and shipping another!

[aarc240]

Kent,
You mentioned that the car was complianced 1/73, was it described as a "DATSUN GT COUPE"?
If so then we now have five examples of Australian delivered Datsun 240K GT's that have good documentation and provenance traceable to Nissan Australia.
At $1500 I would consider that you made a pretty reasonable investment.

[Mr Camouflage]

Good question.
If Nissan have done their usual thing then the panel itself may well have exactly the same holes in it that the original GT one had.
If that is the case, just a matter of replacing the badges.
If not a little rework with a MIG or TIG welder would be easier and cheaper than sourcing and shipping another!

I think the panels are the same, its just that the badges are different. Underneath the big Datsun badge is the narrow indent that the jdm skyline and export datsun badge fit in. I pulled the badges off the back of my sedan and it had the narrow indent.

[khughes]

Hi Art.

Yes, the compliance plate is stamped GT, and the VIN is #280, i am not sure when it was made (will find out on saturday), however it had to be 1972 (when did the 240k production start.. considering this is #KHGC110-0000280.. it can't be too much earlier).. i am not sure if it will come with any documentation or books unfortunately.. it would be nice, but i am not holdign my breath considering the rest of the stuff that has been lost. I am glad to hear that the price sounds justified.. i had started to wonder if i had just dazzled myself and paid too much

I am not sure of the condition of the rear panel (the GL badge will certainly go), but i have never seen a datsun badge that takes up the whole width of the rear before.. is this normal? the only ones i can think of seeing, only took up the indent in the centre (but then i could be easily confusing them with my GT-R one).. is this a badge off a sedan or something?

[aarc240]

Lachlan?
Which year had this badge?

Kent,
as Mr Camo has been kind enough to verify, sounds like your panel is most likely usable with new badging.

[aarc240]

Kent,
No visible difference between early 240K GL and GT panels.
I would think that all Nissan did there was alter the badge to satisfy our rapacious insurance companies.

[Mr Camouflage]

Hi Art.
I am not sure of the condition of the rear panel (the GL badge will certainly go), but i have never seen a datsun badge that takes up the whole width of the rear before.. is this normal?

Yeah, ive seen them before. They are made up of 3 parts. The central datsun badge, and the 2 separate badges either side, the left one is just the bar thing. The right one is the bar incorporating the 240K GL.

I'm 99% sure the when you pull the badges off you will be able to put a badge like Art has on there.

[khughes]

thanks mr. Camo that makes sense.

do you know where these badges originated from? were they JDM, special or something? i find it odd that datsun would make a badge like that (unless it is from another model).

should have a few more pics of things tomorrow.. can't wait now!

[aarc240]

Kent,
Here's one badge that you probably haven't got:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....E:B:SS:AU:1123

and I promise I won't go after it if you need it!

[aarc240]

Also on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....E:B:SS:AU:1123

except these are C210 (unless later C110's got those o'seas).

Original early '73 badges are quite different. Note the deep red in the upper edge groove which I am told was all round the badge.

[khughes]

Thanks Art, i saw those on ebay today, but i wanted to see what badges the car came with in teh morning before i made a bid on that ($55 seems quite expensive for a 2nd hand badge, i paid just a little more for a NIB GT-R one!)

[khughes]

that just reminded me.. a while back i bought a set of GT badges from japan and ended up getting blue ones instead of red..

the ones i have are plastic, don't have the red groove (they don't even have a groove), and the blue is a black/blue sparkle.. i presume the real GT ones are dark blue solid?

i presume these are reproductions as they are plastic, and whatever was written inbetween the posts has been scratched off

[khughes]

Picked up the car today, and it is now safely home!

it certainly needs a bit of work to get here back into shape, but luckily nothing too major.

The car came with 2 rear panels (both with the same GL badging), 1 is a little rusty, but the other seems pretty good.. The new GT badges that came with the car seem to all be reproduction ones (2 of the GT badges like the ones posted just above, and a rear and front GT badge, but they will do for now). Door cards seem to be in good condition (although one is missing the silver bottom panel).

unfortunately it seems that lots of the original GT specific bits have gone (other than the door cards), so i would be definately interested in the dash cluster. the car came with 2 centre consoles, so not sure if one of those is the original.

it is also missing the front seats, unfortunately the set of seats out of my spares car is fabric, and the other set of vinyl seats i have, have broken springs.

Art, could you possibly send me some photo's of the interior, engine bay and exterior of your GT's?

Overall though, once the rest of the rust is cleaned up and repaired, it shouldn't take too much to get her up and running.

[aarc240]

As others may be interested to see differences too, I'll attach pics here.

Background on badges are solid deep blue almost blue/black like the one on eBay.
Fortunately I scored a good unmolested set on one spares car because the ones in use on our road car have been 'restored' by a 'professional restorer of great experience'. Yeah, right!!!!
Front and rear badges are diecastings, side badges are metal (stainless steel) pressings for some reason.

Centre consoles are identical to early GL parts.

The basket weave vinyl on the seat is not quite a perfect match for the original but is very close.

You now have a dash cluster & facia panel - PM me.

btw, these pics are all a couple of years old. The car has lost most of the unique bits since although I have stored them.

[240K&Beyond]

Kent,
Congrats on the pic-up. I was going to mention I still have that spare centre console for you down in my garage. But it sounds like you don't need it. There were to different consoles. The older (71/72) has the radio on the bottom and the newer (75/77) on the top. I'm still looking for a newer with the blanking plate on the bottom where the tape deck would go.

As for GT differences, I remember back in the late '80s when I was playing with my first two K's that a wrecker in Seaford Victoria had a gold GT that I used for parts. (If only i knew - $^#@$!!!) Well it had the badges but the standard tail lights. But I remember the Carby inlet manifold was different. Still a single, but tuned alot longer. The Carby stuck out from the head probably another 3-4 inches and still used a down draft.

Cannot help any further as the K I have down in the factory that has he GT badges are after markets additions on a GL.

[Alfadog]

do you know where these badges originated from? were they JDM, special or something? i find it odd that datsun would make a badge like that (unless it is from another model).

It's a facelift change just like the rest of the changes.

You could even keep hte centre DATSUN bit and source a late-model GT badge from the Arab states (remember they were always 240K GT)

Nothing special about it I'm afraid.

[Alfadog]

Also on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....E:B:SS:AU:1123

except these are C210 (unless later C110's got those o'seas).

Please note as I posted some time ago, C210 badges will otn fit c110 - the holes and pins do not lnie up.

Check my gallery for C10/C110/C210 GT badges compared

[Alfadog]

There were to different consoles. The older (71/72) has the radio on the bottom and the newer (75/77) on the top.

Also note there are more differences between consoles - the actual angle of the bit where the radio sits is different, and the demister switch is relocated, also closer to the console box is shaped a bit differently too IIRC

[aarc240]

Re differences in consoles:

Auto has a different opening & frame for shifter.

Early console, either manual or auto, can't safely be used with GTX style power window switch panel & switches. Later console raises these a few mm for adequate clearance to the tunnel.

There is at least one example of a really early version not having a rear demister switch at all (but then the car doesn't have a demisted back window either!).

[Mastadd240K]

I dont mean to hijack this thred, but can i ask if my coupe has all these things in your photos "aarc240" does that mean that it may be a gt in gl badge form? its build date is 11/73 and vin no is: 003731

[Mastadd240K]

Also This

[240kconvertible]

I dont mean to hijack this thred, but can i ask if my coupe has all these things in your photos "aarc240" does that mean that it may be a gt in gl badge form? its build date is 11/73 and vin no is: 003731

I'd guess that it's just a GL done up with GT bits, probably sourced years ago from Kents new car My build date is 9/73 002805 and was a GL.

I feel that all coupes are really GT's as it was just our insurance that made them be rebadged GL's. I know a few people disagree with that but they are usually the ones with a GT in their garage. You can jump on that bandwagon now kent

[aarc240]

AFAIK it doesn't matter whether it's a 4 door or a 2 door - elsewhere throughout the world they were all GT's.
The GL badging is unique to Australia and we owe that to rapacious insurance companies.
So I guess that makes a GL really a GT rebadged by Nissan!
It makes a genuine Australian market Nissan ID'ed 240K GT a pretty rare bird but not really something significantly different (although our legal system distinguishes between them).

[Mr Camouflage]

My GL (1/74 compliance plate) was doctored with GT trim. It has the 240K GT door trim badges, and the 4 speed GT gear knob, as shown above (even though its got a 5 speed).

[Mastadd240K]

My GL (1/74 compliance plate) was doctored with GT trim. It has the 240K GT door trim badges, and the 4 speed GT gear knob, as shown above (even though its got a 5 speed).

My car was actually a 4spd, and i no that it hasnt been doctored, i guess its just one of those things, we will have to get the papers from nissan and find out exzactly what the go is!

[240kconvertible]

My car was actually a 4spd, and i no that it hasnt been doctored, i guess its just one of those things, we will have to get the papers from nissan and find out exzactly what the go is!

Sounds like yours may be a true GT could it just have a different ID plate on it? back in the day it would've been easy to rebirth a 240k I guess.

[Mastadd240K]

Sounds like yours may be a true GT could it just have a different ID plate on it? back in the day it would've been easy to rebirth a 240k I guess.

I doubt the rebirth, as it still has its orriginal Licence plates on it aswell, i dont know one of those freak things i guess

[khughes]

and here are the pics of mine, in all it's current ugliness

http://www.project240k.com/gallery2/...ighlightId=306

[240kconvertible]

Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you in the future Kent. I noticed your other K buried in stuff in the background in one of the pictures, that is really naughty if they get covered in stuff you can add a year to the rebuild easy.

Mastadd is there any chance that Nissan rebadged and plated yours after it arrived here as a GT so it could be sold as a GL instead of a GT?

[khughes]

so that explains why it is taking so damn long with that thing

in all serious, i have been trying to put off stripping the sound deadener off the bottom of that car.. i want to por it up so that there is no chance of rust in the future.. then she is all ready to paint.. but that won't be until march i am afraid

i am hoping the GT looks worse than it actually is.. other than the lower rear panel (someones botched 1st attempt by the looks of it!), most of the rust spots seem fairly easy to fix.

as for the official GT's.. Art (or others with complianced Australian GT's?), what is the highest VIN that you have? maybe we can estimate the VIN number that marked the GT/GL changeover.. other than the compliance tag, is there a production date on the car? (i expected to see it on the black datsun tag, or is the compliance tag date the production date rather tahn the compliance date?), did the C110's start being produced in 72 or 73?

[240kconvertible]

You need to sandblast the bottom, it will be just a two day job if you hang the car like I did. I'm really sorry we couldn't get your car at my mates farm to do it, his family is really funny about strangers coming over as they have a lot of valuable stuff sitting in the yard and the unlocked shed. If I was you I wouldn't try to get under on my back and strip it as you would be better off just paying someone to do it. The time it would take would be quite a lot and would probably be cheaper to spend that time at work and put the cash you earn towards someone who could do it for you.

The main benifit I saw from sandblasting was the ability to get into the rails, when you spray up the rails don't use por as you waste heaps of paint trying to make sure you get it everywhere. I think I ended up with about 3 litres of por on my garage floor.

I'm really looking forward to the day when we can line your RB up against my 318 at the lights. Any idea how much your engine & box weigh? I've ended up only about 100 pounds more than the L24.

P.s prepare for the worst they always rust from the inside out, I had two little spots showing but the sills were totally rooted. Looks to me like your in the same boat with the sills...at least on one side.

[khughes]

yeah i certainly see the advantage of blasting the bottom.. i was just going to chip the bits off that i could, then por over the top.. but this won't guarentee that rust isn't already there (although it was quite good already).

anyone know a sandblaster in Western Sydney? i unfortunately don't have the room to do it myself

yeah.. i am not too sure how much heavier the engine will be.. although i would imagine that my car will end up being a little bit lighter than yours.. i had better get that GT30R turbo sooner rather than later then!

[240K&Beyond]

Kent,
Just a thought from outside the box, have a chat to a concrete or brick cleaning surface contractor. They often use portable sand blasters that you might be able to hire. I have done it before and it's that best thing ever - it's like spray painting in reverse ! Just keep the sand grains really fine, or better yet use beads, otherwise you end up with a surface like the moon. Oh and remove all glass from the car (and the near by neighbourhood )

[khughes]

I actually rang a "soda blaster" on friday afternoon (couldn't find a sand blaster anywhere in sydney online or in the yellowpages).. they wanted $1900 just to do the bottom.. right...

anyways.. i posted the question on another forum, and they advised that even sandbalsting doesn't work very well for tar type sound deadener.. and the best method is by chipping it off (maybe with dry ice), and tehn scrubbing with kerosene.. that is going to be fun! i may still give sand blasting a go.. but i can't think of anywhere that i would have the room to be able to do it and not have to worry about the mess etc..

i also noticed on the weekend that my GT doesn't have the front tow loop on the tie rod mount.. interesting.. the car also has/had A/C (not sure if originally fitted, i presume so) there are a few major spots that need to be repaired from rust though (including the floor pan around the drivers side seat rear mounts, and the usual spots (sills, rear qtr etc.).. i am really going to have to get better at welding i think..

[240kconvertible]

Dry ice?? Kero?? don't even think about it, that's crazy talk and would turn out to be the worst day of your life. Imagine being under a car wiping it with kero.

Enviro strip is out of business and won't hire his equipment, bloody murphys law. You can use kennards hire and get a 4000psi water jet with sand blaster attachment for $258 for 24 hours. The water coming out at the same time would make a mess but would stop the dust issue letting you do it in your driveway.

I swear on my K that sandblasting does take off all the tar type of soundeadener. I had to leave a bit on mine as the guy who I loaned the kit off was standing next to me waiting to get it back as I finished the rear. I can't say if the kennards kit would do it as quick or with as little damage but the guy I called said it "should". Call 9318 2777 allow 2 days and $300 for blasting media.

Hope this helps.

P.s is this sounddeadener your taking off the same stuff you put on a while back? and if so are you doing this just to get por on the bottom?

[khughes]

thanks, i will certainly look into it.. i certainly don't like the idea of sitting under the car for months scraping and wiping

yes.. unfortunately i can only blame myself.. i didn't think when i put it on and i was eager to do "something" at nights in the garage.. after finding the rust that i did under the primer, i want to make sure there is no more lurking around (and por it!) a little pain now seems better than pain in 4 years time! (especially after she is all done!)

[240K&Beyond]

Kent,
Kennards was going to be my next suggestion. I too can say that sandblasting is a most relaxing and effective way to remove anything. If you find a blaster, you might like to invest in an $80 car shade tent from Super Cheap Auto. The best temporary spray and sanding booth around. Just remember, the sand gets everywhere, including those sills and nooks in the A and B pillars. Don't forget to vacuum it out afterwards.

[240kconvertible]

Be prepared to have to blow it out for longer than you had to sandblast it, you have to go from one end of the rail to the other about 768 594 times... This is for each rail.

I really wanted to get a mate on one end with a vacumn cleaner to suck out the stuff out as I blew it but was unable to rope anyone into helping me on that particular day. I envisage this would help quite a lot and you would only need to blow each rail out 594 times. I'd bet I still have bits of garnet inside mine in plases covered by pro. Actually now I think about it I taped a hose to my housemates vacumn cleaner and shoved it in one end of the rail on max 10min later the vacumn died as I had overheated it by restricting the airflow. Putting the cleaner on 50% power might have fixed it. A new cleaner cost me $120 it had sweet fa in the bag when finished as well.

[matt240K]

Kent,

As for GT differences, I remember back in the late '80s when I was playing with my first two K's that a wrecker in Seaford Victoria had a gold GT that I used for parts. (If only i knew - $^#@$!!!) Well it had the badges but the standard tail lights. But I remember the Carby inlet manifold was different. Still a single, but tuned alot longer. The Carby stuck out from the head probably another 3-4 inches and still used a down draft.

just like this one you mean:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....MESE:IT&ih=007

[240K&Beyond]

Hum Matt,
Just like that one. And look who's selling it Hey.

[matt240K]

Hum Matt,
Just like that one. And look who's selling it Hey.

yeah yeah, I know. Shameless promotion.

But I figure if anyone's been looking for one, then no-one would mind too much me flogging it a bit.