Operation 240k
Hi everyone, Wondering if anyone is interested but Operation K is underway. Our project starts off with a coupe shell that i salvaged from the crusher which cost me $350 a tonne. It spent the last 3 months having all the rust cut out of it which includes lower rear quarters front and back, rear beaver panel, lower door skins, lower guard skins, roof gutters in and out and steel GT-R guards. The photos show some of the steel work that we've completed.
I've decided to install an RB25det with matching gearbox, and r200 diff centre with cv rather than the uni's. R32 rotors with the quad spots upfront and California vented rears and calipers up back, all sitting on z31, 5 stud hubs.
Most of the fabrication is completed and i will post more shots if anyone is interested...
Wow That's a lot of work. It looks Good. It looks like you have taken the roof gutters off. Did you? If you did, once it's primmed, could you take some photos of them up close?
It looks like you can fashion stell well. Are you going to try your hand at a front lip and rear spoiler?
Anyway, it looks like it was a good save on your part.
Bruce
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001866 (The Good) (Yellow)
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001731 (The Bad ) (Blue)
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001407 (The Ugly ) (Green)
1982-85 x3 R30 Skyline Hatches (The Bits Store)
1993 BNR32 GTR - Every January the 29th
2006 Turbo Territory Ghia - The Daily Driver
wow that has to be my fav K atm metal gards now that is freaken awsum i want to learn more metal work im a sheety apprentice atm but i always want to learn more :>
I take my hat off to you, Kid K. You've salvaged something that most people here would have scrapped because it was too much work. Good to see someone willing to put in some effort
I notice a continuous weld along the flares - did you have any issues with distortion, or did you stitch it stage by stage to control distortion?
Do you plan to fill the front arches with big dish wheels, or use longer LCA's / different X member to bring the whole hub assembly out (plus giving you camber adjustment as well)
So many arseholes...
So few bullets.
Hi guys thanks for the replys....
I did have to change the roof gutters on both sides, We cut back the roof skin and de-spotted the internal gutter, but I replaced it as close to original as possible, so it still has the gutter! I don't think I'll put on a rear spoiler but maybe the front scoop, shouldn't be too hard to fabricate ( as you can see I'm not to keen on the bolt on stuff). Need to check clearances for my intercooler first!
The continuous welds on the guards and skins is just a whole series of spot welds. Welds were made at about 50mm apart, allowed to cool and beaten into place before re-welded. My brother that has the 4 door project in the photos is responsible for all the welding.
As for the front end...It runs the standard cross member, I've cut down the engine mount humps to allow for the standard rb25 engine mounts and rubbers. The front struts are hr31 with z31, 5 stud hubs machined down so that the R32 rotors will slip over them,and 4 spot calipers. They have adjustable chamber tops to allow for trimming. The guards have been designed to fit 19 inch wheels front and back ( at the moment I'm using R32 GTR wheels as guides, but they are way too small...If I seem to have added chamber problems you can always adjust your control arms!
thanks again for the interest...
Got the car sitting all fours today, here are some more pics
WoW, I like it very much. Thanks for the Pictures. I was thinking of doing mine up in Matt Black or possible gloss. I like the matt very much. The problem is that it shows every imperfection.
Good Job on the 5 Studs too. The standard GTR rims don't look to much out of place either. If only it had a RB26 ;-)
Bruce
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001866 (The Good) (Yellow)
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001731 (The Bad ) (Blue)
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001407 (The Ugly ) (Green)
1982-85 x3 R30 Skyline Hatches (The Bits Store)
1993 BNR32 GTR - Every January the 29th
2006 Turbo Territory Ghia - The Daily Driver
That's one sweet ride your putting together Gerry. You've done an awesome job on the arches.
How did you weld up inside the wheel well to make space for the 19's? can you post some photos.
flares and wheels
Sorry I don't have any flares in progress shots, As soon as i can I'll post shots of the inner arch. Once I marked out the arch line on the car (which is about 60mm lower than the original position of the fiberglass flare), we just slotted, folded then welded to the outside skin. The slots were filled with wedges of sheet metal and then painted with body deadner. The arches were originaly design for a set of 19's but have settled for the 18's in the photo. At this stage, there is now springs in the rear end and the arms are sitting on the bump stops...
Woo thats looks great!!!
HOLY CRAP! Man, that's super bad! If you were to role up here in Japan with those wheels, you would definitely snap some necks!
That looks like it's straight out of Mad Max, I love matt black. What colour are you going to end up with?
How much space did you have between the top of the rear arch and the tyre?
I ended up with quite a lot as seen in the shot but that is without lowered springs installed in the rear. Just wanted to be safe and drive it around a bit with 3 lads in the back to make sure of no scrubbing before i go the lowered route on the rear
Rear wheel clearance
Hello Mr Vert...
.I hope this helps. My rear guards are pretty much the same as the you would do the front guards if they were made from one skin. If you look up into the rear guard, my inside flare is as high as the inner skin, in the photo you can see the original join from the two sections. In comparison to your photo I think I positioned my flare lower than yours, I did this to get rid of the jet hopper look..The second photo shows where my inner guard starts. Basically the area you have between your top flare hole and your bottom lip is part of my inner flare only beaten up for clearance...I've also included a photo of flare position. In the last photo the wheel is sitting on the bump stops (No spring), it actually just touches on the left side of the flare (because my camber and toe adjustments are all loose) and the wheel still has enough clearance to roll.
wow i always wanted my car to go that way but i feel ive had to many build restrictions on this build but now that you have done it i dont need to :> thanks its really a very nice build :>
Rear Flare in progress
Found some shots of the flaring process..my brother had them on his phone!!! Don't laugh at the green!!!!
arse end
Started putting the arse end together over the weekend, just waiting for some shocks and springs then i can put the cv's and sway bar in.........
blocked back
Got the car blocked back and undercoated, just some shots..........Paint it black?
Hum, two more coats, then a light saturn red pearl clear over the top. I cannot say how much I appreciate the pictures and how much I miss my workshop.
Bruce
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001866 (The Good) (Yellow)
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001731 (The Bad ) (Blue)
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001407 (The Ugly ) (Green)
1982-85 x3 R30 Skyline Hatches (The Bits Store)
1993 BNR32 GTR - Every January the 29th
2006 Turbo Territory Ghia - The Daily Driver
Keep up the great work mate, loving this build. thumbs up!!!!!!
if it aint black, its wack
If you leave it flat black with the polished trim, I'm gonna have to get my cough medicine. The car will just be so sick!! I think you should leave it Black. The trim would go good with the rims too.
tops
+100
New donor car...
Got a new parts car last week...looks like it sat at the bottom of the sea for awhile...
New wheels on the 4 door...
Some shots of the new 17 inch G-max's and the 4 door..
Hi Mate,
awesome work there.. you are certainly ploughing through it!
07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212
www.project240k.com - project details on all my cars
Your brother has done an awesome job on the arches., i'm pretty impressed with the end result.
The sedan is a nice ride too, all they need is a set of rims and away you go.
I'm all for seeing it painted black but it will look killer in any colour you choose even canary yellow.
yer that car is a killer i love it in matt black but its always gonna look great :>
Hey buddy anymore updates on this car? Just came across it now. I would love to get stuck into a K one day. Have always liked them and felt kinda sorry for them rotting away unloved in many junkyard in Australia.
I'm currently in Los Angeles on holidays, returning on the 10th of july, the coupe hopefuly will be out of paint when i get back..Tinter Black...will post pics as soon as i get back..
hey Kid-K
did you actually make them flares? Any chance you could make another set of 4 and sell them to me? That would be awesomeness!
i have a set of WORK EQUIPS waiting to get on my K, just sussin around for flares/overfenders at this stage...
Ur ride is nuts!! absolutely luv it mate!
steel flares
Hi Lenny, sorry about the delay in replying. The flares were copied from the original gtr flares, only made shorter ( distance from the ground). The flares were made by a local panel maker, the number was given to me by the local hotrod guys, I'm happy to pass the number on if you wish..The only problem is that they cost me $1650.00 and you need a set of fibreglass ones to copy (which i have). If you are interested please let me know...he has also fabricated rear beaver, lower quarters (front and back), lower doors, lower guards, wiper tray, and inner and outer window gutters for me. Thanks for your kind words on my build...will post photos of the R33 aluminum radiator and intercooler install soon
will he be able to make any of those parts again? for resale?Originally Posted by KID-K
Replacement Panels
Making replacement panel parts aren't to much of a problem...We have templates for some parts, front guards, 2 door lowers and four door lowers, the rear quarter on the coupe are an issue as my replacements parts didn't include the wheel arch, as you can see from the photos there's a fair bit missing because of the flares...as a general rule you cut out the rusted section as good as possible and he will make a replacement with welding rids in place so it doesn't buckle when you weld it in place...by the way his in Melbourne...
Radiator and Intercooler
Fabricated intercooler piping over the weekend, had to cut a small section off the top of the rails to make room for the r33 radiator, but it all seems to fit ok...
c110 24.1 scale
Was just on Japan Yahoo and came across this...
Last edited by KID-K; 07-22-2009 at 04:22 AM.
im in Melbourne too, maybe i will need to pay him a visit? i only really need the front 1/4's and the window cowling,
Replacement parts
Where in Melbourne......His leaving at the end of next week to the states for 4 weeks, send me a private message and I will give you my details and Jamies...
Hi,
This is how I did my intercooler, but mine had the outlets on the same side.
Nigel
Hey Noddle...Cool setup...does your headlight still fit...thanks for the pics
Yes they do, see attached picture
more pictures here
http://noddle.110mb.com/Turbo%20Upgrade/index.html
Nigel
Hey Kid-K! ahh no worries, u probs have a million things 2 do to the car, just don't 4get 2 keep updating us! =) Ah that price sounds about right.. i got my last car hand flared with extendend metal fabrication... just thought u may have done it yaself. Be good if this bloke was in Adel...
Anone know how Torana flares would go?? lol how much....hmmm
keep it up fella!
Torana flares on a 240K?
Torana flares only look good on toranas.
www.nostalgictrio.com Skyline - Silvia - Fairlady Z
www.ozdat.com The Australian Datsun site.
www.cafepress.com/vintagedatsun
I was really worried that mine was going look like a Torana with flares
Guess not then....!! lol
Off to paint
Saturday morning, off to paint, should get the body back on monday........
R33 radiator with Custom shroud
Just a picture of my Radiator, It's an aluminum R33 radiator with a water jet custom made shroud, and a couple of thermos off ebay....
She's black
SHOTS FROM THE BOOTH.........
Super tight!
Looking awesome, good work.
may i ask why in some of the pictures there is green tape along the lines of the car? i can't quite work it out (other than to possibly protect the edges?)..
great job the car looks straight as a tack! how many hours did you spend bogging and sanding?
07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212
www.project240k.com - project details on all my cars
green tape
The green tape on post #13 was to show were the inner guard sits....I just used it to show the internal wheel clearance. thanks
There's not much filler in the car at all, which means we spent a **** load of time getting it straight...
Last edited by KID-K; 08-12-2009 at 10:32 PM.
so what steps did you do from stripping to bare metal?
Mine is at the bare metal stage, i am planing to give it another rinse of POR metal ready (rust convertor/metal prep), then a non sanding epoxy primer coat (to seal the metal), then start work on minor filling
after bogging i had planned to do another epoxy prime coat to seal in any bog before doing a hi fill prime, after which i will hand off to a bodyshop to hopefully do the remaining 20% and colour
then again, i have no idea what i am doing (never done any bodywork), and piecing information together as i go
07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212
www.project240k.com - project details on all my cars
That's looking very awesome... well done... I'm not sure if I met you or your brother but I recognise the white sedan. Would love to see the black one soon!
That was me you met, GT taillights! I'm waiting to get all the front end from the powercoater, hanging to put it together...Thanks
HI......our body work was done before any primer was applied...We actually used the same 2 pak epoxy as a primer and as the high fill. 12 Litres of it....the reason for this was because, one it was epoxy...thinned down as an etch, then used as a high fill...secondly because it was black.....when it dried it was as hard as hell...good luck...body filler should go on bare metal!so what steps did you do from stripping to bare metal?
Mine is at the bare metal stage, i am planing to give it another rinse of POR metal ready (rust convertor/metal prep), then a non sanding epoxy primer coat (to seal the metal), then start work on minor filling
after bogging i had planned to do another epoxy prime coat to seal in any bog before doing a hi fill prime, after which i will hand off to a bodyshop to hopefully do the remaining 20% and colour
then again, i have no idea what i am doing (never done any bodywork), and piecing information together as i go
Awesome paint job/color choice, I'm in awe of the depth of the black . . . . look into the abyss!
What psi and what tip did you spray the high fill with?
cv rear conversion
Some shots of the rear cv conversion before it gets bolted together. I used z31 turbo 5 bolt rear hubs, flanges, and half shafts, (the shafts themselves were fabricated for me by an engineer in bayswater, cost around $400)......The z31 rear flanges are much bigger than the standard 240k flanges, so the A frames also have to modified, so does the lower mounting plate for the shocker ( which now seems to fit better than standard)
ooohhh, I see. But I don't think I need CV's for the 280Z R200? what is the length of your half shafts? Could you also explain what the A frame and lower mounting plate for the shocker is?
psi for high fill
you need to run a 2.5mm tip and needle kit in your gun, Dave ( my brother) says he ran our gun at 40-45 psi. Again we used the same epoxy thinned down as an etch........
Stolen!!!!!!!!
I COULD BE THE LAST PERSON IN THE WORLD TO HAVE A 240K PINCHED. Last Sunday night a very thoughtful person helped himself to my parts car....The whole thing!!!!!
Last edited by KID-K; 08-24-2009 at 01:19 AM.
No good mate,
Thats a shame if I knew you had it I would have asked for some parts as I am building a 4 door and desperately need the trims around the rear lights and a rear bar. Damn for you and damn for me!!
PS some serious rust in the old girl.
It'll end up in a container bound for Kuwait
www.nostalgictrio.com Skyline - Silvia - Fairlady Z
www.ozdat.com The Australian Datsun site.
www.cafepress.com/vintagedatsun
Do a quick ring around Menzies Metals and other Bulk Metal merchanants just in chase someone saw it there and traded it for a quick $300 worth of steel. You never know. Ring up some local car collectors and find out where they take the cars for recycling.
Good luck & be Quick !!!
Bruce
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001866 (The Good) (Yellow)
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001731 (The Bad ) (Blue)
1973 240K GL - KHGC110001407 (The Ugly ) (Green)
1982-85 x3 R30 Skyline Hatches (The Bits Store)
1993 BNR32 GTR - Every January the 29th
2006 Turbo Territory Ghia - The Daily Driver
Good idea
My new number plates "QWIK"
go do some work kid k :P
Dear Mr Slippy
Sometimes play is more important than work!
Mr s13Drifter
Did a qwik check of trims, I think I have: 2 rear trims, a boot trim ( could be short some clips ), and a rear bar! Let me know if your interested ( Location Melbourne)
that sux bout the car :<
also s13drifter i may have some 4door stuff but it may not be the best condition :<
i know ppl with a few spares so i may be able to swing something
sometimes?
mate... play is ALWAYS more important than work...
What brand and type of epoxy and hi fill did you use? can i also ask.. when you epoxied the car, how did the paint look immediately after spraying?
I just sprayed my bonnet and bootlid with Dupont 840R the week before last.. but i don't think i had the gun set properly.. i expected the epoxy to look shiny and almost like a plastic coat.. but instead it looks more like a primer out of a can (i think i had the fluid down too much and it dried before hitting the paint)
i am trying to work out if the epoxy should look like a wet pool when applying
07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212
www.project240k.com - project details on all my cars
The House of Kolor, and PPG epoxy primers both come out matt like normal primers, once dry. I have seen the shinny primers, they are gaining popularity as you can see dents easier but dont assume because its epoxy it will be shinny. When applying; primers are shinny then they dry matt, id say you where to dry on the coats if you couldnt achieve a wet look before the paint flashed and dried.
Cheers
Last edited by s13drifter; 08-29-2009 at 01:55 AM.
Definately interested in the trims, I have a good mate in Dandenong that you can send the parts to, Trevor Davis auto refinishers, will get a street address we can work out something for sure as someone is down there every few weeks as Trev paints all our rods and cars.
no probs
no worries, just let me know.....do you have any more pics of the orange coupe, where, what, who
Progress!!!
Just some progress pics..
Checked on the weekend, and it actually seems to have come out quite well (maybe a little on the thin side, but certainly better than a normal primer finish).. i did a bit more (engine bay, doors and roof) over the weekend and keeping the gun a lot closer and putting down a lot more paint "seems" even better (few runs where the hose got snagged.. oops)
sorry for the hijack
07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212
www.project240k.com - project details on all my cars
Hey kid-k just woundering what the size and offset those 17in rims on the 4 door are?
hey kid k - pull ya finger out and update this damn thing....
dont you hate it when work gets in the way of fun
just a new picture..have heaps will post soon
some of my newly collected pieces
more bits to go on....
This is so awesome mate, love the PROPER parts too!!
wish I had room for another car.....
too cool!
Is that in oz?
shiny photos
here's some shot's I took today....
i hate you so much right now,.
Looks fantastic
Very nice !
that looks amazing!
im so envious
are the chrome surounds new?
well done, paint looks awesome
chrome!!!!
thanks guys.......all chrome/ stainless steel was restored by Vinnies Bumper Bar Restoration in Dandenong
update
Waiting for the 18th of Jan for my GTR taillight surronds to come from the fibreglass casters.....Thanks again to Adam for leanding me his original ones so I could make a mould.......If any one is intrested in a Set of aftermarket GTR taillight surronds let me know.....Front grills are also coming, and I'm not sure if anyone notice but my filler caps aren't original either, I made a press to punch them out as well........
all hail the 240k god!thanks guys.......all chrome/ stainless steel was restored by Vinnies Bumper Bar Restoration in Dandenong
update
Waiting for the 18th of Jan for my GTR taillight surronds to come from the fibreglass casters.....Thanks again to Adam for leanding me his original ones so I could make a mould.......If any one is intrested in a Set of aftermarket GTR taillight surronds let me know.....Front grills are also coming, and I'm not sure if anyone notice but my filler caps aren't original either
GTR taillight surrounds
update
Waiting for the 18th of Jan for my GTR taillight surronds to come from the fibreglass casters.....Thanks again to Adam for leanding me his original ones so I could make a mould.......If any one is intrested in a Set of aftermarket GTR taillight surronds let me know.....Front grills are also coming...
Hi KID-K,
sorry to hijack thread,
If you are referring to the black rings that surround the rear outer lenses, i would be very interested, i would also be interested in a replica gtr front
grill if it was a good quality fibreglass one. Do you know how much the rings
and the front grill would be? Any help would be appreciated!!
regards: Costas. 240KtoGTR
How much?????
Can't give you a cost on the grill as yet...but the ring (which are the GTR black cook top style) are costing me $65 each, thats straight out of the mould in black gel coat. If you want them chromed, it's another $55 each, but then you'll have to repaint the black section. The mould is made and I should have a set made by the end of Jan....I'm waiting for a container to arrive for the front grill that I bought off japan Yahoo......
Last edited by KID-K; 12-31-2009 at 06:13 AM.
GTR tail rings
Thanks KID-K,
$240 for the pair chromed seems very reasonable, when you get yours in
January, tell/show us how they are, and let me know how to organise payment.
cheers.
240KtoGTR.
i think ill have to drop into dandy next time i visit my parents
running out of room.......
Hi Mate,
put me down for a set of the rear replica GT-R tail light rings in black gel coat. do you want to pm me the details of payment etc.
awesome
Kent
07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212
www.project240k.com - project details on all my cars
so can we hire you to carryout body work to other peoples 240k's?
yes please
07/74 Datsun 240K GL Hardtop KHGC110 - #5497 (longest 240k project in history?)
1970 Datsun 240Z HS30 #212
www.project240k.com - project details on all my cars
Is that a XM/P Coupe in the background ?
It's a XM coupe, my brother wants to try and restore something "foreign".
Last edited by KID-K; 01-06-2010 at 05:54 PM. Reason: spelling error
My first car was a red XK Falcon, 4 door. nice old car, 250 xflow, Toyota steel 5 speed, Holden 3.08 diff, on gold 13 inch hotwireIt's a XM coupe, my brother wants to try and restore something "foreign".
I'm thinking the XM will be an original restore, back to super pursit standards. Dave's putting the newest sedan together at the moment and I'm working on a disc barke conversion (front and back) for the sedan and trying to get my original tacho to work in the coupe (six coils is a bitch). Then we'll start chasing XM parts, It should be a much easier restore than the K's, I know you can buy almost everything new or repo......and not have to make it...
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