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Thread: RB30 in a 240Z

  1. #1
    Registered User zr240's Avatar
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    Default RB30 in a 240Z

    Hi

    anyone have any info on fitting a rb30 or rb25 in a 240Z

    Thanks
    Ash

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    No more Z soon *cry* Leeroy's Avatar
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    Default Forget the RB30

    Too heavy, too old...no rb30...the best fitment is an RB20DET from an R32 Gts-t...easy fit, fairly light and still plenty of room for power...RB25 and 26 does fit, but alot harder to fit, alot more expensive and if you fit the RB20 you can sit it far back in the engine bay which means more space under the hood for cooling, and better handling due to less weight over the front axle...so there!

    Hope this helps

  3. #3
    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default RB engine conversions

    Hi all,

    If you are looking into an RB engine conversion look at this site:

    www.hybridz.org

    They have lots of info there. Stony and I also post there as well, we both have done RB26DETT conversions, he has done it to a 260Z and I have a 240Z.

    Look at the forum called "alternate 6 cylinder non L6 board" and do a search for RB26DETT, Stony has done a write up on "how to"

    Leeroy, I donít see why the RB20DET would be any easier than the rest of the RB engines!!! (Unless you are talking about bonnet clearance issues). All RB conversions will require the same kind of work to make them go inside a zed shell. Things like: modified oil sump and oil pick up, engine management, intercooler and plumbing (if it is a turbo engine), engine and gearbox mounts, modified drive shaft, throttle cable etc....

    Good luck!!!

    PS. if you need specific questions answered, then you can send me a PM.
    Imola Yellow RB26DETT 240Z
    Perth Western Australia

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    Datsaholic Mr Camouflage's Avatar
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    Default

    An RB30 shouln't be any more difficult to fit than an RB26.

    Heres a pic of a 240z with a RB30ET (from a VL commodore), which has the intake pipe on top of the engine and the bonnet shuts ok. This car was in Street Machine magazine a while back. I dont know who owns it, but this pic was taken at the z car workshop.

    Mr C
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  5. #5
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    I'm 1/2 way through an R33 RB25DET conversion, it fits under the bonnet, sits as far back as the L24 did and I don't see any potential problems with it.

    RB30ET SOHC, there a little inefficient, 3L producing about 210hp compared to the RB25 producing 250hp at the same psi but I suppose that is without an intercooler. it is possible to put a Nissan DOCH RB head on the Holden RB30 block and / or intercooler it, that should bring up the efficiency thus hp.

    They should all have the engine mount holes in the same place and should all fit under the bonnet. the RB26DETT and RB25DET are the better standard engines but they all should supply enough hp after increasing the psi and other little bits to satisfy.

    try to get the engine with the wiring loom on it will make the job easier.

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    Default RB Into Z

    that blue Z was owned by a Nick someone forgot the last name and the article was in street machine I have that article at home. I think all RB engines require the same work to go in but I would do an Rb25 after reading into it all myself. Anyway good luck I personally Like the idea of a L28 Turbo I already have the Block and Head (P90).

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    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default WOW!

    did a bit of reading on hybridz.com, couldn't understand what they were going on about with the z31 rb20det, I thought all z's from '84 onwards were v6's

    Z31 200ZR - 2L turbo (RB20DET) Jap only

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    Deftly daft Alfadog's Avatar
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    Default

    200ZR???

    Aaalllllllaaaannnnnnnnn!

  9. #9
    ++++++++ HS30-H's Avatar
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    Default Too modern for me!

    Alfadog, if its me you are calling then forget it! My interest does not cover late model stuff like the Z31. Even the S130 is late for me.
    However, the 200ZR is another one of those interesting Home market special editions that they never offered to the rest of us. Its certainly a great organ donor for the Hybrid Z guys.
    By the way, Alfadog - maybe your family would like my new daily driver; A.R. 156 2.5 V6 24v Sport Pack 3. Silver with red leather, bought to replace my 155 2.0 16v Twin Spark which I plain wore out.
    Regards,
    Alan T.

  10. #10
    Deftly daft Alfadog's Avatar
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    Default

    OK, I was wondering if perhaps that was a little too late for you

    Silver and red eh? Nice... I've been trying to get my mum to buy a 156 ever since it came out Her last car was a 164 but the depreciation on those things made her quite unhappy... hasn't wanted an Alfa since (She's happy driving a Pajero (Montero/Shogun)!!! Shame!!!)

    In all irony, I read recently that the 156 has depreciated the least compared to all other cars in the same category over the last 3 years. And yes, I did tell her that

  11. #11
    Datsaholic Mr Camouflage's Avatar
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    Default 200ZR

    A 200ZR is a 300ZX with a RB20ET inline 6 (instead of a VG V6), 5 speed manual, and a small bonnet scoop.

    Mr C

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    No more Z soon *cry* Leeroy's Avatar
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    Default Just saying...

    I'm not saying that an RB30 or 26 wouldn't fit, I'm just saying for ease, power, weight and ready supply of inexpensive spares, an RB20 or 25 are best...26's fit but are less common, and 30's are heavier and more inefficient (the money spent on changing the head and getting a custom stud set + intercooler for it would be much better spent on other mods to the other engines). Just my 2cents...not discouraging anyone from anything (its all good! They're Z's, so its exceedingly difficult to make them 'uncool'), cause in the end its all about what the owner wants!!

    Cheers people!!!

  13. #13
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    a RB26 would be cool but at the end of the day a RB20 with $1000 in mods will have the same hp as the standard RB26 and still cost $1000 less than the RB26 did to start with

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    Deftly daft Alfadog's Avatar
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    Default

    But you still won't be able to say you have a GTR motor

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    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default

    Hi all,

    I have a GTR motor in my 240Z

    Just wanted to make you all jealous - or justify to myself that the extra expense of an RB26DETT was all worth while!!!
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    Imola Yellow RB26DETT 240Z
    Perth Western Australia

  16. #16
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Cuong: have you put a different intake manifold on?

  17. #17
    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default intake manifolds

    Hi all,

    Ivan >> the intake manifold that Iím using a factory one, it is standard only on the RB26DETT - all of the other RB engines have the air intake crossing over the valve covers (making the intercooler plumbing harder, messier and longer, which raises bonnet clearances issues also in a zed).

    There are several aftermarket intake manifolds which replace the RB manifolds (and are forward facing like the RB26DETT) available such as Greedy (by Trust). Here is a picture of a manifold which is non factory on the RB26DETT (but not a Greedy one)

    Points to note:

    In this picture they have removed the factory individual throttle bodies set up (as used on the RB26DETT, aimed at sharper throttle response etc.) and have gone to a single large one. This is common in Japan, as not all aftermarket ECUs have the provision to run the multiple throttle bodies set up. (I personally wouldnít do that, there are several ECU that can do the job, such as Autronic and Motec as well as others)

    Donít get tempted (as others have done) to modify your RB25DET intake manifold by just welding up the intake which crosses the valve covers and repositioning the throttle body to the front. This will give incorrect air flow to each cylinder (favour some over others) and will result in detonation, which we all know is not all that healthy for the engineís life!!!

    The RB26DETT intake manifold has Ďcurvesí on the inside which is designed to direct air to each cylinder and also tapers towards the back.
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    Imola Yellow RB26DETT 240Z
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  18. #18
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    that's very helpfull, it just so happens my intake is currently stopping my bonnet from closing by about 15mm, didn't want to have to redo the engine mounts. any idea on what price these aftermarket intakes are?

  19. #19
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    Cyong: don't suppose you know the part numbers for the 200ZR oil sump and pickup or have you done it a different way?

  20. #20
    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default

    Hi all,

    Sorry Ivan I do not know the part numbers for the 200zr bits that you are looking for, I would think that the Nissan dealers in Australia be confused if you asked them about 200zr parts anyway!!!

    I made my own engine mounts by modifying the factory aluminium GTR ones. For the oil sump I modified an RB30DET (from a Holden VL Commodore) and also had to modify the oil pick up so that it goes into the deep end of the sump!!!

    The reason that I used the RB30DET oil sump as a base to modify is that it fits onto the RB26DETT block (the GTR engine blocks are double drilled to take all the RB sumps)

    You should be able to just use your RB25DET oil sump and modify that one to clear the steering rack (I couldn't use the RB26DETT one because they have the front drive shafts coming out of it, the GTR is 4WD remember?)

    A very good trick for the oil pick up is to tap it with a screwdriver and make a V indent into it, this will ensure that the engine does not starve of oil if you were to be unlucky and bottom out and crush your sump at any stage.

    Good luck.
    Imola Yellow RB26DETT 240Z
    Perth Western Australia

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    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default GTR oil sumps

    Hi all,

    Here is a picture of two GTR oil sumps.

    The top one has been modified for extra oil capacity. Note the front diff and drive shaft flanges!!!

    btw guess what is going to happen to my RB26DETT zed when I get some more money???

    4wd RB26DETT 240Z hhhmmm that would be nice, very nice!!!
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  22. #22
    Datsaholic Mr Camouflage's Avatar
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    Default 4WD 240Z

    Hi Cuong

    Have you seen the pictures of the black 4WD 240Z?

    Mr C

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    Deftly daft Alfadog's Avatar
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    Default

    Please post pics!

  24. #24
    Datsaholic Mr Camouflage's Avatar
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    Default

    This was posted before somewhere as a link to somewhere else I think, But I couldn't find it. So here's a pic.
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    Deftly daft Alfadog's Avatar
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    Ahhhh yes I remember that, just didn't notice the "4WD" text!

    I want one !

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    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default want more pics???

    Hi all,

    here are more pics of the same car...
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  27. #27
    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default ...wait, here is more...

    same car...again...
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  28. #28
    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default again

    one more for good luck!!!
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  29. #29
    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default ...but wait there is STILL more...

    btw. all of these photos are from a Japanese magazine called Option2
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  30. #30
    RB26DETT 240Z Cuong Nguyen's Avatar
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    Default second last one

    ok, nearly finished....
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  31. #31
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    what 1/4 mile times was that pulling again?

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    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    Found the part numbers if anyone is interested:
    11110
    15050
    15200G
    11232
    11233
    11220 X2
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  33. #33
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    and some more
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  34. #34
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    strange this didn't work b4
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  35. #35
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    Default

    believe it was in the mid to low 9s!!!!

  36. #36
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    Default

    Hi Ivan, you say your manifold is 15mm to tall for your bonnet ?
    if you rework your engine mountsyou wil get it to fit fine. Ive used the RB30 block with the RB25 head and manifold, which is 40mm taller than the RB25 block and i have 10mm clearance over the throttle body.
    Steven

  37. #37
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    thanks RB30-ZED, lowering was the second option, the engine is on a 10 to 15 degre angle so I can lower the side causing the problems by about 30 to 40mm if I have to, would prefer a low intake with the throttle body at the frount if it cheap enouth though.

  38. #38
    Bob H
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    Default

    Ivan,
    Could you list what the part numbers correspond to? I.E. xxxx = oil pan, yyyyy=engine mount, etc..
    Thanks,
    Bob
    "To give less than your best is to sacrifice the gift" - Pre

  39. #39
    Registered User Ivan's Avatar
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    Default

    11110 - Oil sump
    15050 - Oil pickup
    15200G - Oil pickup O Ring
    11232 - RH Mount
    11233 - LH Mount
    11220 - Rubber mounting (LH and RH)

  40. #40
    Registered User nixcars's Avatar
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    Default

    Hi, it's me, that Nick someone who is responsible for the RB30ET conversion in that blue 240Z.
    May I suggest you go with an RB30DET (i.e. RB25DET top end on a RB30ET bottom end). This makes for quite a good conversion.
    If you're worried abot it fitting under the bonnet, I have a simple solution. Why not cut up the standard RB25DET & a RB26DETT intake manifolds at there bases & join the 2 main pieces together. Then mount the throttle body at the front of the GTR manifold, this will give you all the clearance you need.
    Anyway, if you decide to go this way, I have an almost complete RB25DET top end with the GTR manifold mod almost done, all you need is a good RB30ET bottom end. This will end up going in my 2nd project car, a 240K if it doen't sell.
    Oh, by the way, my 1st project car which has been going since Nov '99 is a 4 cylinder 240Z.

    Hope this info helps.
    Nick.

  41. #41
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    Default rb26dett

    main reason most people go for the rb26dett is because this is nissans race motor her eis a comparison

    rb26 rb25
    can be built to 600hp only to 400hp on stock internals
    listed but more than 280hp only 250hp
    9000 grand redline i think dont hold me 8000grand
    more aftermarket parts less aftermarket
    expensive about mid priced
    no bonnet clearence issue bonnet clearence issue


    there are a lil more to but in my opinion the rb26dett is worth the extra money unless you are on a strict budget in that case by all means go for the rb25det

  42. #42
    No more Z soon *cry* Leeroy's Avatar
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    Default Why the bonnet clearance issue?

    I've never heard of a bonnet clearance issue with the rb25...are you sure...anyway, I would probably go with the rb25 due to the fact that a) Alot cheaper (about half the price), b) There are more of them, c) The aftermarket parts are just as plentiful (contrary to popular belief), d) It'll make within a whisker less power when pushed than the rb26 [due to capacity]), and you only have one turbo to worry about, rather than the two on the rb26 (which means cheaper, only one to rebuild, less pipes, less hassle)...I'm not saying that the rb26 isn't good, cause it is that little bit better, but if you had an extra couple of grand to spend on the motor because you got one with 100cc less capacity, you could make it twice as powerful as the rb26!

    The power issue only really comes into play in the instance of chasing 700+ hp, where you'll be spending mega bucks and it probably wouldn't be a Z, but a purpose built streeter...

    Just my 2c...

    Cheers ppl!
    1976 260z 2+2 - Was rebuilding, but now I have to sell....*sob*
    1997 Honda V25 Cruiser - My new wheels (even if it has 2 less than the Z)...

  43. #43
    No more Z soon *cry* Leeroy's Avatar
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    Default Oh yeah....

    Almost forgot, the rb25 I have seen with 510hp, stock internals...

    I personally wouldn't put one in my Z anyway, just giving my opinion for the average person who doesn't have $30k to spend on an engine conversion.

    Cheers ppl!
    1976 260z 2+2 - Was rebuilding, but now I have to sell....*sob*
    1997 Honda V25 Cruiser - My new wheels (even if it has 2 less than the Z)...

  44. #44
    Registered User brianglawson's Avatar
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    Default

    well i think the issue with the clearence because the intake goes over top of the motor(i think) but somewhere i have heard that there is a different manifold that you can use but go figure

    wow 510 on the internals hes pushing it if it is an rb25
    the main reason beside as you said capacity for the rb26detts strength is the fact that it is actually nissans race motor, obviously tuned down but still with massive components

    wow if you know where the rb25det after market parts pm me and tell me i cant find any...lol seriously man that might chang my mind a lil on my swap

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    Default

    I might resurrect this thread, save starting another.

    Although Im more interested in the RB30. Yes we all know that the RB20DET and RB25DET are more powerfull etc, but they arent NA, and you cant pick em up at the wreckers for $200.

    Is their really any point (purely in power terms) of building up an L28 over an RB30??
    Why pay hundreds (or more) dollars in stroker kits when you can get the complete stroked motor out of a VL commodore !
    From the little reading I've done on the RB30, they dont rev well, and they dont breeathe well. So, cam work,valve work and port work may be in order, this is something that a lot of us would do to the L28 anyway...

    Surely the stock RB30 intake is not as bad as the ZX. It even has a hotwire MAF (55 or so??), and a chippable ECU !!

    How much heavier is the RB30 over the L28 ? This is the only downside I can see against the RB30 (oh and of course its a bit taller). But unless its enormous than it wouldnt be soo bad.

    Speaking purely in terms of making a faster Zed car for less money, I can't see why the RB30 is not a better option over the L28. Of course anybody putting a straight six NA realises the power restrictions, so thats not really an argument.

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    Well you'd be restricting what kind of competition you can run your Z in. Why go through the hassle of engineering the car setting up new wiring and bastardizing a Z when your not really gonna gain all that much. Unless of course you go Turbo RB30.

    For me building an L28 stroker is perfect for insurance and for originality.

    Not sayign the RB30 is not a good idea just saying the grass isn't always greener.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav240z
    Well you'd be restricting what kind of competition you can run your Z in. Why go through the hassle of engineering the car setting up new wiring and bastardizing a Z when your not really gonna gain all that much. Unless of course you go Turbo RB30.

    For me building an L28 stroker is perfect for insurance and for originality.

    Not sayign the RB30 is not a good idea just saying the grass isn't always greener.
    I am with you Gav - I was thinking RBxxDE or RBxxDET sometime ago but I have just purchased an import L28 F54/N42 combo again for the same reasons mounts are easy etc and the $$ I would spend on RB conversion will go a long way into getting more HP from the L28. This is just a personal opinion. I even have heard of a 3.1 L28TT pulling close to 1000hp (In a drag car in Japan - and I would assume not very reliable ie need to pulled and checked after each meeting....$$$)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gav240z
    Well you'd be restricting what kind of competition you can run your Z in. Why go through the hassle of engineering the car setting up new wiring and bastardizing a Z when your not really gonna gain all that much.

    That's why i said "purely in power terms".Im not too worried about bastardising a Zed, I've got a 1JZGTE sitting beside my 260Z waiting to go in one day :-) And no the RB30 would not be all that much better than an L28 stock for stock. But when you start modifying you don't have to worry about that $1K+ for the stroker.

    By all means if you can get an LD28 crank, Rods and pistons for cheap then I would do it as well. You can buy RB mounts for less than $150, and wiring, well its all attached to the engine.

    BTW when I said "Speaking purely in terms of making a faster Zed car for less money, I can't see why the RB30 is not a better option over the L28", I meant it in the sense that if anyone does know why, then I would love to hear from them.

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    Acts first, Thinks later speedyblue's Avatar
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    The RB series of engines are the nex generation over the L series. Therefore, more refined and efficient, giving more HP and better fuel efficiency. Plus, better built for unleaded. (The lead replacement stuff is just plain nasty) There should be a good lot of aftermarket options here compared to the L28. Downside, fuel injection, so you are up for an easy grand plus for new pumps, surge tanks, filters, regulators, lines etc. But makes the turbo option much easier at a later date. If you went for the RB30, then once set up, work on it rather than another transplant with the Toyota motor and a new bunch of headaches.
    I drive a Z because there simply weren't enough station wagons to go around.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedyblue
    Downside, fuel injection, so you are up for an easy grand plus for new pumps, surge tanks, filters, regulators, lines etc.
    In the middle of doing all that for my L28 efi engine

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    Fun stuff. Are you using after market stuff, or stock Nissan stuff, because I have a 280zx just sitting here and I dont intend to use the fuel system at all so if you want anything, you can have it. The stock pump works. I know because it pumped out the contents of the fuel tank every time I turned the key on to get the windows up/down.
    I drive a Z because there simply weren't enough station wagons to go around.

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    I didnt weant to cut the tank open, so Im going with external surge tank and fuel pump. Im just using the standard elec pump as a lift pump to the surge tank

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    Smile

    I think I have to jump in to this post, as I have been using a RB30DE for a couple of years now.

    they don't rev well, and they don't breathe well. So, cam work,valve work and port work may be in order, this is something that a lot of us would do to the L28 anyway...
    There is some truth in this, but its the breathing that has the most effect on the usable rev range of this engine. There are good cams available to suit the single cam head.
    I took the path of using the RB25DE head, which cost me $450 AU. The head has VVT and uses standard 240deg 7.8mm lift cams, and I can tell you it runs up to 7100rpm at every club day and is still pulling strongly all the way.
    The block has a full main bearing cradle and at 85mm's stroke is shorter than most 2ltr 4 cylinder engines.

    How much heavier is the RB30 over the L28 ?
    Sorry cant say, but the block is not heavy, if you go for the twin cam head then it is a bit heavier, but the total weight of my car is 1120kg (2470lb) so its no penalty.

    Of course anybody putting a straight six NA realizes the power restrictions, so that's not really an argument.
    Oh yes id argue that
    Have you seen this G-Tec of my RB30DE compared to a standard RB25DET ( I drove both cars the same way on the same road on the same day.
    Power, RB30DE is black & RB25DET is red

    1/4 mile

    Well you'd be restricting what kind of competition you can run your Z in
    Maybe in historic, but for club competition its 2001cc-3000cc so 2.4 2.6 2.8 3.0 its all in the one class.

    bastardizing a Z
    Now I know you mean that in a nice way Gav, but tell me where the "Bastardizing" is here! Bastardized ?

    If you had the chance to drive my car (happy to give any Zed owner a drive any time) you would be surprised with the torque the engine has from 1500rpm right up to 7000rpm and how much quieter the RB is in comparison to the L28 it replaced.
    Id recommend a RB of any type if your able to do the work your self.
    Steven

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    Would definately do the Head swap if I got the VVT at that price, but I think I would stick with the single cam at the price that I see most of them go for ($700+)

    How does your car handle Steven? I have heard that the front suspension needs a bit of tweaking with the RB30.

    I might take you up on that offer for a drive when my car is back on the road at the end of the month....hopefully

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    Well I don't run standard suspension so I cant comment on that, only to say in my car it turns in and changes direction beautifully.
    I run shortened struts and koni inserts with 300lb Kings springs on adjustable platforms, and rose jointed control arms with the pivot point moved up 30mm.
    I spent a lot of time to get the engine as low and as far back as I could.
    Just let me know if your in the area (hour south of Sydney) i'll make sure its got fuel in it for you.

    Also if you think about it $700 for the twincam 4 vale head with VVT is cheap , it would cost you that to inprove the RB30E single cams head flow with valves and cam.
    Steven
    Last edited by RB30-ZED; 01-02-2005 at 08:41 PM.

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    Default rb30and the crank angle sensor

    great discussion,
    I have run both the RB30E and the L28E for a few years in completely different body styles, (read as VL commodore & 6/73 Z).
    I say to all of you who are not familair with the RB30E it is a very smooth and extremely willing engine. A crisp well prepped RB30E on speed is exceptional and free reving, can be an absolute a joy to drive.
    I would find it hard to discourage anyone from using an RB30E after my own experiences with them. Like wise the L28E is a great package and is highly recommended, I have run the L28E combo in my zed since 1991 has great zZZZZZZZZZZoom mode.

    I think the decider for me comes down to the cost of operating both types I found the RB combo cost more, due mainly to parts consumption in the ignition system through bit part failures in the standard form, failure about every 80,000-100,000K (not large cost just frustrating and time consuming)



    My wife identified an RB30 failure on a friday afternoon in South Brisbane to a red faced RACQ repair man who was stumped, she suggested he check the crank angle sensor for damage. He checked and then called a tilt tray to pick up the car. The wife said the look on his face was priceless.

    finally dont be scared of either combo, both go like cut snakes if you squeeze them properly.
    My 2 cents

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjcurtis

    My wife identified an RB30 failure on a friday afternoon in South Brisbane to a red faced RACQ repair man who was stumped, she suggested he check the crank angle sensor for damage.
    Interesting that you say that, I was just reading that pparently all 'early' nissans had serious problems with their CAS, and apparently more than half of the RB30 have had to have them replaced !!!

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    Thumbs up Rb30

    Well I have nothing personal against any RB swap in a Z. I think they are great motors especially turbo charged they sound awesome. RB30-Z you have almost convinced me to swap an RB30 block and 25 head into my Z however I've already started to spend money on my L28 setup and gone to the effort of chasing an LD28 crank shaft and importing to Australia. I'm very anxious to finally finish the motor but funds have fallen short for the time being with job changes etc..

    Does anyone think a Z's value is less with an engine swap or is it just me? Personally I think a L28 with about 300HP being fed by tripple mikuni's would be very old skool very japanese and very awesome. I'd like to enter in Targa at some stage do they permit engine swaps in Targa events?

    Anyway I can see both sides of the coin on this but the reason I went with the L28 build was because of my friends car which absolutely hammers with just twin SU's .

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    I dont have the RB26DETT like you Cuong ( dam it all !!!!! ) but i do have a 73 240Z also and i am from Australia so ill jump on your band wagon .....

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