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Thread: Distrbutor removal

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    Default Distrbutor removal

    Another while I'm at it. Im replacing the distributor cap and rotor and notice one bolt/screw to hold down the cap ('82 turbo) has been replaced with a wood screw by po and it isnt working. I look at the distributor base and see a mess of a hole. I break out the Chiltons (next to worthless) and it says just loosen the two hold down bolts. Done. It may just be very hard to remove but I have been know to over muscle things before. Does it lift straight up and out?

    Thanks

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    Registered User steve91tt's Avatar
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    Are you trying to remove the cap from the distributor, distributor from the mount or mount and distributor from the timing cover?
    Steve

    1973 240Z (daily driver)
    1971 240Z (track car)

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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    Have you looked at the FSM for info? Find it at http://www.xenons130.com
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

    Blue's collection of tech tips - A great place to look for answers
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    Thanks guys. I am trying to remove the distributor from the mount.
    Yes i have reviewed the FSM and found an exploded diagram but it does not indicate if there is a gear cog at the end of the shaft (as I have seen in other cars) and if the shaft needs to be twisted when removing or if it lifts straight up as Chilton indicates.

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    No more body roll! SteveJ's Avatar
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    It should lift straight up. Look at the pictures in this post. That's how the bottom of the distributor should look.
    73 240Z
    74 260Z

    Blue's collection of tech tips - A great place to look for answers
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    Georgia Z Club
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    It lifts straight up, but make sure you mark it exactly where it is. It's not like the non turbo dizzy where it is asymmetrical.
    things will only bother you if you let them.

    82 280zxt 4 spd auto
    73 240z--lsd, cv axles
    short throw info

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    Thanks guys.The picture helps alot.

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    Problem solved. This is interesting. Has any one seen oil in this area before? Not sure what PO had going on. I think it was overfilled at some point. Good compression and but dirty engine.

    http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/z...1592/photo.jpg



    Look at the lower hole for the retaining bolt. That will be fun to fix.

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    Rust Free'ish zKars's Avatar
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    Oil in the dizzy mount hole is normal. Relax on that.

    Repairing that hole is best done by welding it up then re-tapping the hole. Any machine shop can do the welding. Use the cap to guide your drill bit to start the new hole. Have to take all of the guts out first. Not the cheapest or easiest route, but the best.

    Other options; JBL weld/Epoxy the hole then retap (quick result, short life, but how often do you take the cap off), next use a bolt that passes through the hole and use a nut on the end, or Jb/weld epoxy the nut on the bottom so it stays put.
    Next, try to find a very small nutsert.

    Last, buy another base. Put an ad in the 'Want to Buy' section.

    Other ideas anyone?
    -----------------------------------------
    Jim
    73 240Z HLS30 149331
    69 510 PL510 77603

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    Easiest, cheapest...helicoil

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    Thanks guys on the oil issue. I was getting nervous about that. I can weld fairly well particularly when it doesnt show so that was my plan. It is just interesting to me the way some PO's take on fixing an issue, rather than retap or tap a larger hole they use a wood screw and tear the threads and base etc. The joys of older cars. I'll post a completed pic and you can tell me how it looks.

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    I don't think there's enough material to do a helicoil, geezer. He needs to find a welding supply or industrial supply and get some lab metal. It is superior to JB by my measure. Clean the hole throughly, pack it good and tight with lab metal, when cured file smooth and then drill/tap. An alternative is locating another distributor but this is an easy fix.

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    Thanks for all the input guys. I went with JB Weld. Had some on hand. I filled the hole and put a washer and nut on the back side of the hole for good measure. Now it holds like a champ.

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