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Thread: Selling on eBay

  1. #1
    Registered User rdefabri's Avatar
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    Default Selling on eBay

    Well a few of you asked about selling your car on eBay - I sent some info to ricksaia with tips on how to do it. I am starting this thread as I was asked by a few to share with them:

    ================================================== ==========

    First things first - you need to register to sell on eBay. It's a simple process, but you will need a credit card for eBay to bill you for listing fees amongst other things. I'd also STRONGLY suggest getting a PayPal account - I was a skeptic at first, but now a big believer of PayPal. It's an extra level of insurance, especially when selling a car, as funds must be verified. The down side is that there is a charge with using it.

    Once you register to sell, you can post the car. As others have suggested, take a ton of photos. In fact, browse other ads to get a feel for what is good and what isn't. Think about what you would want see as a prospective BUYER and use that to guide how you SELL the car. Also, be as descriptive as possible, which can only help. Even so, you will get a bunch of questions from serious and not so serious buyers.

    Now, there are a few other things to consider. Set your "reserve" price as the absolute minimum you'll take for the car. So you understand, if you set a reserve, and the auction fails to generate a high enough bid to MATCH the reserve, you don't have to sell the car, it remains in your possession. That's key, especially given the wide range of valuations on Z cars. The other suggestion I would add is set the initial bid price LOW. Not .01 cents but start it at like $1,000 or $2,000. This is the psychology of the auction - it's tough to grasp, even I have a hard time starting bids this low, but it attracts bidders. The hope here is that you get 2-3 people really interested in driving the price up (sort of what you might see on the Barrett-Jackson Auctions on SpeedTV). As long as you have a reserve price set, you are covered - the car WON'T sell unless that reserve is met or exceeded.

    Another thing to note - take note of the day you start the auction and the length of the auction. It sounds silly, but some goods sell better on weekdays than on weekends. In your case, as this is a collectible car, I'd suggest that you have the auction END on a weekend (preferably late Saturday). That gives working-class people a shot to bid on the car rather than during the week (when working or coming home to family). It's the total opposite for enterprise related goods like industrial ovens or phone systems, where a small business/company may want to buy these for their business. Usually an auction runs 5, 7, or 10 days. I like 5 or 7 days, but again, try to calculate it to end on a weekend.

    Now, once the bidding starts, you may not see ANY action. Again, don't worry about this - it's natural. You will see in the "My eBay" section when you login how many WATCHERS you have - that's a truer indication of how much interest you are generating. A good eBay buyer/bidder won't bid until the very end, MAYBE they will enter an initial bid to get it going, but the "pros" usually bid snipe (more on that in a bit). The time when bidding gets hot is a day or two before the end of auction, and REALLY hot within the last 1/2 hour through last MINUTE (yes MINUTE) of the auction. This is what is known as "bid sniping". Bid sniping essentially allows a prospective buyer to enter the highest bid they are willing to pay and the software will auto bid (snipe) on the bidder's behalf. It basically counters any higher bid with an even higher bid within a fraction of a second. If you click bid history on a high profile item, you will see how that works - it's pretty cool, but a little disorienting the first few times you do it...it helps you out again that you have a reserve price.

    While on that, some people may ask your reserve price. It's etiquette to provide that if asked, but that's YOUR judgment. If you feel that would adversely affect your auction, then politely tell the prospective bidder "I would prefer not to divulge that".

    There is another option you have in eBay called "Buy It Now"...I don't really like this feature and rarely use it as it automatically puts a stated value on the goods you are selling. As an auction is primarily someone a) looking for a deal and b) interested in the "chase", the "Buy It Now" is more appropriate for someone that is selling multiple, repetitive goods. For a special car like this, I'd avoid that UNLESS someone asks you privately to purchase it (and it's higher than your reserve). My personal requirement however, is that you state in the description that the car is listed locally and you reserve the right to end the auction should someone outside of eBay make an offer you accept. This is "CYA" as well, and protects you.

    This is a lot to take in, and I am really scratching the surface. However, this will get the car more eyeballs and more potential buyers than you might otherwise get advertising locally.

    Finally, if the car sells and you get your price, I cannot stress enough to watch out for SCAMS. Even I got scammed and I've been doing eBay for 5 years. Thing is, if it smells like a rat, it is a rat. Do not respond to emails outside of eBay, and anyone interested in buying the car from an email, ask them for THEIR number and you will call them. I once tried to buy an old Triumph chopper, and I was sniped in the bid (lost at the last minute) - I received an email stating that the owner offered a "second chance offer" - and for me to wire the money. I wisely responded asking for THEIR number, but I also emailed the person auctioning the chopper. He confirmed he actually sold the bike and there was no second chance offer, so the email was a fraud. Lesson learned - NEVER NEVER NEVER send any money unless you confirm the id of the person. There are similar scams for people selling, you can actually see them in eBay, but as a seller you are naturally better protected since you own the item. A car would be difficult to scam, so you should be ok.

    Then the obvious will kick in as if selling this locally - you want cash or a certified check or (preferably, in my case) PayPal. You probably have a ton of questions; by all means let me know. There's a lot to take in and it can be daunting for a first timer. Familiarize yourself with the site and look at current auctions to get an idea.

    My guess is that you won't sell it on eBay, but you may generate some seriously interested parties that might want to speak to you after the fact. This is what happened with the Saturn I just sold (for WAY more than everyone told me it would), so eBay can be very valuable. Other option might be Hemmings Motor News, but there's less immediacy than eBay.
    '72 240Z HLS30-73667 (sold)
    '66 Jaguar XKE FHC, numbers matching
    '67 Honda CL77 305 Scrambler, 8,000 original miles

  2. #2
    '71 240Z, '78 280Z jmark's Avatar
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    Good stuff. Thanks.
    Mark
    '71 240Z White 904
    VIN HLS3022975
    '78 280Z Wine Red Metallic 611
    VIN HLS30468702
    IZCC #13834 CZC #5664
    '07 Nismo 350Z Silver Alloy Serial #0007
    VIN JN1BZ34E47M552354


  3. #3
    Registered User rdefabri's Avatar
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    No problem. I think it's safe to say these are just for guidance - others may have different tips that are as effective or better, but I have been selling on eBay since 2001, and these have worked well for me thus far.
    '72 240Z HLS30-73667 (sold)
    '66 Jaguar XKE FHC, numbers matching
    '67 Honda CL77 305 Scrambler, 8,000 original miles

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    240 Z Owner/Nut Case dhoneycutt's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info!!!
    David A. Honeycutt
    United States Air Force, Retired


    1972 Datsun 240Z HLS3079961
    A Work in Progress

    2004 Mazda 6s
    2009 BMW 535xi

    The Only Difference Between Men & Boys... Is The Price Of Their Toys!

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    Deftly daft Alfadog's Avatar
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    Good info, I have also been on eBay since 2001 and was just scammed a couple of weeks back, so I will re-iterate what you said. If it smells like a rat, it is a rat.

    I'd also like to stress the importance of when you list your items. Think about not only when it will finish, but when you are listing it. People who search regularly will search ordered from "most recent". Naturally, more people look at auctions in the evening and during weekends. So if you list on a Wednesday morning, chances are you will have less people see your listing as they may "lose interest" after looking at a page or two of the latest.

    One other thing I think is important - don't be rude!! Sounds obvious but the number of listings you see where the seller is short with their description and plain rude about questions is huge. Answer every question as if they are a potential buyer.

    Also, I don't know why people do this but don't list your item without pictures. So many people seem to think it's ok to list your car, and just add a note "I'll put some pictures on later" at the bottom. Firstly, this is a major turnoff as it shows you are not really that eagre to sell. Secondly, are you trying to hide something? Thirdly, it's very easy to scan the page, if there aren't pictures, close it. Many will not read your entire description. So, TAKE PICTURES FIRST!

    One more thing. If your item does not sell, it does not mean it's not worth the price you ask. So many other factors affect the final price. List it again in a month or two if you have the ability, and you may see it reach a reserve. For example I once listed something for $15 starting price, and it received no bids. I listed it two months later at $9.99 and it reached $50. 6 bidders were involved. It really is hit or miss sometimes. This also brings forward the point you brought up about low starting prices. Good to start low. But not too low.

    That's all I can think of now! Good write-up!

  6. #6
    Registered User rdefabri's Avatar
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    Alfadog,

    Yep, excellent input, I totally agree with your points, especially when to list and to keep trying if it doesn't sell.

    EBay takes time to get the feel for it, but once you get it, it's great.

    Also, sorry to hear you got scammed. Almost everyone has a story. That's why I stick to PayPal to pay and get paid - NEVER pay or receive wired funds (e.g., Western Union) and always make sure my buyers have decent feedback.

    You'll never completely be safe, but as you said - "if it smells like a rat...."
    '72 240Z HLS30-73667 (sold)
    '66 Jaguar XKE FHC, numbers matching
    '67 Honda CL77 305 Scrambler, 8,000 original miles

  7. #7
    Registered User rdefabri's Avatar
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    One more thing -

    When starting bids low it's really tough to get past that mental wall. However, I've seen ton of people that start major goods at $0.00!!

    At first, I thought that would be a turn off to a potential buyer as it smells funny. However, there's a psychology associated with auctions - it's the thrill of bidding up with anticipation of winning.

    It's almost always the case that your item should start well below the actual value. You can protect with the reserve to ensure the item isn't lost too cheap, but as you pointed out, more bidders will be attracted to a lower starting bid...

    More excellent input!
    '72 240Z HLS30-73667 (sold)
    '66 Jaguar XKE FHC, numbers matching
    '67 Honda CL77 305 Scrambler, 8,000 original miles

  8. #8
    Registered User 280z1975's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdefabri
    Alfadog,

    Yep, excellent input, I totally agree with your points, especially when to list and to keep trying if it doesn't sell.

    EBay takes time to get the feel for it, but once you get it, it's great.

    Also, sorry to hear you got scammed. Almost everyone has a story. That's why I stick to PayPal to pay and get paid - NEVER pay or receive wired funds (e.g., Western Union) and always make sure my buyers have decent feedback.

    You'll never completely be safe, but as you said - "if it smells like a rat...."
    On bit of warning regarding PAYPAL, the buyer protection isn't great, in fact it sucks.

    A while back I bought a hard drive from a seller with 99% feedback, over 1000 feedbacks. I paid for USPS Priorty Insured mail. When it arrived it came in a regular flat envelope!!!!!!! I couldn't believe it. Naturally the hard drive was DOA. So I e-mailed the guy back and he apologized and said to send it back and he would replace it. Said one of his workers must have sent it out wrong. So I sent it back (HERE IS THE IMPORTANT POINT) I didn't use tracking (it was a 25 dollar HD, so I wasn't trying to spend any more money than I needed to) when I sent it back.

    Well I waited for my hard drive to come back. An sent the guy an e-mail and then he said "it's on it's way". I waited ... finaly I decided to file a PAYPAL buyer protection report. When I filed the seller sent PAYPAL the tracking information about the original package. Since the hard drive arrived they said it was a done deal and that there was no PROTECTION. Ebay was of no help either. I filed a negative feedback and recieved one against myself (which i still have even though he is now kicked off Ebay). See the seller wouldn't give feedback till YOU gave feedback (I stay away from sellers who do this now).

    So don't look to PAYPAL for buyer protections when the person sends you something that isn't what is listed. I still use PAYPAL, but I don't buy now with that feeling they are going to stand by me and protect me if there is a bad seller. If they really stood by everyone who go screwed they would be out of business.
    -Gregg Germer -

    1975 280z - HLS30-210542
    My 280z's Webpage - http://www.gregggermer.com/280z.htm - a chronicle of it's transformation

  9. #9
    DeesZ (John) DeesZ's Avatar
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    All of the eBay tips are very good. Each one, in each of the postings is very well founded. I have eight years of selling experience on eBay, and have had very few disapointments with the system and other eBay community members. Several issues may not seem important, but they were offered by sellers with obvious experience. Within the last two years I have noticed a tremendous increase in last second bidding. Yes, last second, not minute or hour. Many of my listings double in value in the last 5 ~ 10 seconds. Many bidders wait to drop their load at the bitter end. This makes it very important to consider when you want your auction to end. With Z-cars, and other 'boy toys', as my wife calls them, I suggest an ending time when your audience will be available. I usually list this type of an offering so that it will end around 7:00 western / 10:00 eastern time. Also, I like to schedule my listing for a Thursday night and run it for ten days. That way I get two weekends of play, with the auction ending Sunday night. This is important because the highest traffic on eBay for browsing is on weekends. The more weekend days that you get, the more watchers and potential bidders you will get. I also go overboard on pictures. I use lots of them and of the highest quality I can provide. This makes it as close to seeing the item in person as possible. The old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" applies to eBay. Hook them up with an accurate, honest description, and you will likely not be let down. Low starting bids are another way to get watchers and bidders. I often start at $0.01 with no reserve (but in the case of a nice Z-car would likely put a reserve on the auction). Keep in mind that the more watchers you get, the more bidders you will have at the end....get your auction on as many buyer radar screens as possible. Also consider "feedback" ratings: A seller with under ten feedbacks, even if they are all positive, may not attract as many bidders as another seller who has more. Buying from a seller with 0 feedbacks is like buying a pig in a poke. As a buyer you will be comfortable bidding higher if your comfort level with the seller is higher (and feedback is about the only way to convey that comfort level). I get queezy buying from anyone with less than 98.5% positive feedback. I have bought from sellers with 0 feedback, but it's an uneasy feeling. The positive side to buying from a 0 feedback seller is that you will likely get a bargain because there will be fewer people bidding against you (and that's not good at all for the seller), but you're taking a chance, too. I've been lucky in that respect. For someone starting on eBay I usually suggest selling a few low-end items first, build up some positive feedback, get the hang of the system, then list the bigger ticket items. In the case of selling something like a Z, it may be worth while farming the job out to someone who has a good feedback record and experience writing listings, etc. The money that you spend doing that will come back to you several fold in the end of auction results. Last but not least, as everyone has said, beware of something that smells like a rat. PayPal, although expensive, is a great money transfer service that is well worth the fees you pay. More than 95% of my sales are paid with PayPal now. If you don't offer that option, you will exclude some potential buyers. By the same token, do not state that the ONLY payment method accepted is PayPal, either. Include other methods like US Postal Service Money Orders so that there are several options available (but be specific in your listing). Under no circumstances release your goods to a buyer until you absolutely know the funds are good. (A woman I work with sold a car on eBay, received a certified check, released the car, and ten days later found that the check was bogus!) Under NO circumstances accept a check that includes extra funds for a shipper (requiring you to cash the check and then pay the shipper from those funds). The latest scam puts you out the cost of the car plus additional $$ for shipping. Just be aware of these things so that you can avoid the rats, don't let it scare you away from eBay. Get involved and enjoy the experience....Kinda like sex.... lots of fun, and if you practice a few reasonable precautions, it won't kill you.

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    All of this is interesting. I've been with eBay for quite some time too. I have only been ripped off twice for a total of about $125.00. It doesn't feel good either. As many have noted feedback is an important tool. If you feel the need to leave negative feedback you can wait until the eleventh hour. This allows you to post bad feedback but rarely enough time for the seller/buyer to respond in like to your feedback.
    Anything of real value/cost should be investigated throughly. I bought a set of Currie HP9 axles for $5000 from a business in Florida. Before I bid I made absolutely sure the business actually existed and asked enough questions to be comfortable in bidding. If the seller gives vague or no answers, the item is selling well below it's value, or other info just doesn't add up then walk away. Sometimes that's the hardest thing to do but the wisest also. There are always exceptions like a seller posting an item in an odd location or slack descriptions that reduce search results. I was looking at a supercharger where the seller listed his location as Wisconsin but his E-mails were traced to Europe. He had no sells or feedback. He would never give a straight answer to my questions. The only people bidding were eBay newbies.
    EBay uses only one recommended escrow service. It requires a small fee (based on selling price) to transfer monies after the buyer has accepted an item. If the seller is unwilling to use this escrow service then walk away. Make sure you ask before bidding about the seller's willingness to do so. This is an important tool when spending BIG money.
    Lastly, sniping is the best way to bid IMHO. It allows you time to make an educated guess at the value of an item and how much you are willing to pay. Set your max bid and walk away. If you win great, if not, oh well. It is easy to get caught up in the frenzy at an auction's end and bid more than an item is actually worth. That said, let me point out that you should research to be sure the item you're looking at is not available elsewhere for equal or LESS money. Often you can buy from an eBay store or other source for less than the auction's opening bid.
    Last edited by ezzzzzzz; 06-23-2006 at 05:58 AM.

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    Registered User rdefabri's Avatar
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    PayPal will not prevent you from getting ripped off of CASH, but imagine if a customer ripped you off and had your credit card number...or your bank account...That's one reason why PayPal is the only way to go.

    Further, my business is an LLC, so there are no personal account numbers or credit cards associated with my PayPal account. Again, I am speaking from perspective of a business, not an individual.

    Either way, you must always accept that a professional thief will rip you off. This is akin to protecting yourself in a home, for example. The best perps can penetrate any alarm system (see "Blane Nordahl" - MASTER thief), so what you need to do is put in precautions that deter 99% - you build layers. Protecting a house would be: Layer 1 - motion detection lights; Layer 2- a dog (barking will alert you); Layer 3 - an alarm system; Layer 4 - a firearm (LAST and WORST case scenario).

    So using that example, you protect yourself in a similar fashion - Layer 1 - incoporate the business (LLC or S-corp); Layer 2 - use a business checking account and credit card; Layer 3 - keep good and accurate records (this includes using tracking to ship and insisting on tracking when receiving; as a point, I keep evrey single receipt, document, payment, you name it- archive at least 5 years); and so on...you get the point.

    PayPal on it's own CAN'T prevent theft of monies, but it does protect your privacy, your credit, any collateral or follow on damages, etc.

    While these are business related tips, but they can be applicable to personal use as well.
    '72 240Z HLS30-73667 (sold)
    '66 Jaguar XKE FHC, numbers matching
    '67 Honda CL77 305 Scrambler, 8,000 original miles

  12. #12
    Known Zitus carrier! hls30.com's Avatar
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    I have a couple of things to add,
    Answer emails-remember your answer is another shot to help someone to spend more of their money with you. Eight years ago I recieved an email with an absolutely idiotic question about my second ebay item (A fiat SCCA modified X/19) and I wrote a quick off the cuff smart-ass reply, Just before I sent the message I thought maybe this guy really doesn't know any better, and instead wrote and sent a friendly and helpful reply-I ended up having the person I wrote back spend $3700 for a car I told him was worth at least $2000, and leave great feedback. He bid against one guy who would have won the car for $550 if I had sent the smart ass note, and he had not been in the bidding. That nice note made me an extra $3150 that my smart ass coments would have kept in someonelses wallet! Yes I get my share of morons, but they have money just like everyone else, and I sell things on ebay to trade for it!
    Sometimes they ask questions that are just too much, then I ask for a phone number to discuss the situation with them-that usually stops the tire kickers and time wasters, and it really impresses those who are honestly asking questions-and these situation don't happen that often.

    Post realistic shipping and handling charges, Nothing angers anyone faster than paying a good price for something only to have the deal made idiotic by grossly over priced shipping-that absolutely insures a one or no time buy-I never go back-My patronage is not important to that seller. You build an expectation with every communication. I choose to help my customers by making sure I spend their money on shipping the way they would-that is part of outstanding customer service-and it gets past purchasers to contact you outside of ebay for what they are after-it sure easier to sell a "pull" than a "push." Once a customer knows what to expect, the only question they have is: "Have you got one of these?" When they know they are going to be treated well and that their patronage is valued, they come back time and time again.
    I have accounts with USPS (they supply free boxes, and free pickup-talk about convenient!), and Fedex (absolutely the cheepest way to ship almost anything large-just pack it up and drop it off at Kinkos(a fedex staffed location))! Between the two, I have the least amount of money, time, and energy to get something on its way to a customer who knows I am not playing games to get more money.
    Accounts are free and can be setup online or over the phone-all it takes is a few minutes.

    Will
    A Z is beautiful from any angle, I just happen to prefer to view from the drivers' seat!

  13. #13
    1971 240Z for sale RolfSis's Avatar
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    Top notch information! So it sound like we should sell other things c/o eBay and Paypal before listing our '71 240Z to get some feedback first. Sure appreciate the guidance everyone has listed in this thread.
    Love the Z
    Ours is a 1971 240z with a 260z engine for sale (California native) VIN HLS3028499 Asta

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    Former frequent poster sblake01's Avatar
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    Asta, you might not even need eBay once you're ready to sell if your asking price is still $4100. Though I'm not in the market, I've been following your posts about the car and I doubt you'll have any problem selling at that price.
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    Registered User dade280's Avatar
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    Good info.
    When buying be careful of low priced items with high shipping costs. This is usually a scam. Ebay will refund the price of the item but not the shipping.

    I wish i hadnt got scammed and that cold air intake for my 280 would of came but i learned my lesson

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    Registered User FHPTOM's Avatar
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    Default Sell complete or part out

    I find myself trying to decide if I want to continue my next project a 1977 280Z that has rust issues on most body panels(small sections) but a nice interior and engine.

    If I sell as a whole car all I want is what I have in it $500.00. Alot of people say part it out. What kind of cash increase are you looking at compared to the amount of time required to tear it all apart?

    For me I think TIME is the most important factor. I have so many other things that need to get done it would have to be a great increase in revenue returned to justify the time involved.

    Tom
    11/1974 260Z RLS30-066841
    Restored then gutted to race....

  17. #17
    1971 240Z for sale RolfSis's Avatar
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    Thanks you so much, Stephen. I've sent Email to this site Administrator to inquire about the Paypal options on this site to get things going to sell here vs. eBay or some AutoTrader, etc.
    Love the Z
    Ours is a 1971 240z with a 260z engine for sale (California native) VIN HLS3028499 Asta

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    Awesome idea for a thread rdefabri.

    Here tips from me.
    What ever you do don't pay those ridiculous Ebay fees for listing more than 1
    picture in your auction.
    I remember being able to get 3 pictures for free if I'm correct, but now you
    only get 1 free pic with .15 cents for each adittional.

    I use Photobucket to host all of my images and
    then use a HMLT Code (Hot Mail) to add pictures to my auctions for
    free ^_^

    Heres how it works
    and the links to each step.

    ~1
    Go to Photobucket.com and sign up for an account.
    http://photobucket.com/

    ~2
    Go to your auction description where you would type the description and
    switch it from "Normal" view to "HTML".

    At this point the description section of the listing will switch into HTML mode
    whitch is a type of computer code for those who don't know, but don't worry
    cause it's all in English and not 0's and 1's like computer programming.

    The HTML code for pictures is IMG SRC="next.jpg" set in between
    these 2 symbols < and > .
    Had I typed this code the correct way above it shows up as a box with
    an X cause there is no image linked to it yet such as this one below.


    Take his HTML code and cut and paste it at the top of the descrpition as
    many times as you have pictures.
    Then take the Photobucket Direct Link address of your photo and paste it between the
    two perenthesis (" ") of the HTML Code above.

    For example your code should look like this typed,
    IMG SRC="http://classiczcars.com/images/z_sketch.jpg"
    once again set between these symboles < AND >.

    And appear as this.


    You can go back to Normal view and drag and drop your pictures around according to
    how you want them in your auction description.

    Your free ebay picture can be used as you Gallery image and with your Ebay
    picture setup on "photos on bottom" it will be the last pic out of the
    way of your other photos ^_^

    Note this paticular code works for JPEG format images only as
    far as I know but could work for GIFS and others.


    ~3
    All of your auctions should come out looking like this for example.
    Notice how many pictures I have on my auction and all of them are free
    thyanx to Photobucket and a small bit of HTML Code ^_^
    Auction example link click here!


    To sum it up.
    You can resize your images on Photobucket's website to whats
    called "forum" size.
    The Pics in my example auction are this size and are the 100% full size I set
    them for on Photobucket whitch the HTML Code will
    automaticly use.

    So be sure to resize you pics to a resonable size so they
    don't show up humongous.
    Increments of 25%, 50% and 100% when resizing work best to
    not make your pictures become pixalated
    Also when taking pics treat it like artwork and remember "Composition"
    and good clear shots with good descriptions.

    Heres a link that describes some HTML Codes in further detail.
    Do some reseach for other HTML codes on how to add music and such
    and creating other kinds of links ^_^
    http://www.pageresource.com/html/image3.htm


    ~Z~
    Last edited by WingZr0; 10-31-2007 at 10:30 AM.
    Speeding is fun,
    As long as you out run,
    The cops! ! !

    ~Z~ Seek Truth

    ウイングゼロ 競争 GangLoadOParts.com

  19. #19
    Z Pilot BRE-240Z's Avatar
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    Default

    I've been buying and selling on eBay for over ten years now, and the best advice that I can give anyone is to pay attention to buyer and seller feedback. If someone has a 95% feedback score or less, there's a reason for that and it might be a good idea to investigate. The other thing would be to communicate your desires and intentions to both buyers and to sellers (but especially when you're the seller). When someone buys something from you and pays for it, email them to let them know that payment was received, and send them a tracking number if you have one. Keeps everybody happy.

    There are scammers out there, so be aware of that. If something sounds odd, it probably sounds that way for a reason....just listen to your instincts.
    .


    1971 Datsun 240Z
    HLS30-30806
    Asheville, North Carolina
    IZCC #14802



  20. #20
    Registered User
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    Default

    I would highly advise NOT selling cars on ebay. I've lost over $100 in fees in the past two months. Long story short- I tried selling my Mustang that I don't drive anymore. 91, 19k miles, 100% stock, etc, etc. It's still new. The first time I list it I get about 10 emails asking for stupid trades and all that other BS. So this guy emails me saying its the first time he's bought anything and to walk him through it. So he uses buy it now and since he said he would drive up to pay me in a few days, I waved the deposit. So he gets here and is going over the car with a fine tooth comb. Then he gets all irate with me saying that I lied to him. The AC wasn't converted so that is what he was pissed off about. Even though he legally bought the car AS IS, he refused to buy it unless I knocked thousands off. I almost wound up calling the police on him because he was getting right in my face. So this douche bag finally leaves and drive 8 hours back home because he's a low balling Ahole.
    I list it again a week later. Again I get literally 25 emails asking for trades and completely absurd low ball offers. This one guy was trying to offer me $5000 and he would drive down TODAY if I accepted. The car is worth $12000. I had 50 people watching the auction and it ended with not one person bidding. Why? All people try to do is deal with you outside ebay and try and get you to sell it at a lower price.
    Guess who is responsible for the auction fee if you get a dead beat? YOU!!!!!! That's right, if somebody bids and they don't pay YOU get stuck with the fee!! Even though you are required to enter a credit card when you sign up, if you bid on something, no matter how much it is and don't pay for it, the auction lister is liable for the listing fee. Since a majority of people that would buy your car is from out of state, any type of legal action you could take against them becomes so expensive it's not worth it.
    My advice is to stay the hell away from ebay for selling cars. Use Auto Trader, Craig's list, forums, etc.
    Last edited by bkelly; 10-31-2007 at 10:42 AM.

  21. #21
    Parts Hero WingZr0's Avatar
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    Sorry ..
    Also note the Code works for any image from any website as long
    as you lnow the image addreas.

    To find the addreas left click on the image, look under properties
    and you'll see the address.
    When copying it make sure you get the whole thing cause
    sometimes there is more than 2 lines of informotion when cut and pasting
    the address.
    Speeding is fun,
    As long as you out run,
    The cops! ! !

    ~Z~ Seek Truth

    ウイングゼロ 競争 GangLoadOParts.com

  22. #22
    Former frequent poster sblake01's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BRE-240Z View Post
    I've been buying and selling on eBay for over ten years now,.......
    Cars or other things? I only ask because these are two completely different ballgames. I'll buy parts or other things there but only after doing enough research to find that it's the only place I could find the item and that I like the price/shipping costs but I'd never even consider puchasing or selling a car on eBay. No more than I'd walk through a crime infested area to get to a grocery store.
    2004 Ford Ranger EDGE Supercab
    (@Moonpup: This one really is an EDGE!)
    2005 Pontaic GTO
    2010 Mercedes Benz C300 AMG Sportline (Wife's car)
    2014 Kia Rio LX (Wife's daily driver)
    Certified HVAC/MVAC Technician

  23. #23
    Z Pilot BRE-240Z's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sblake01 View Post
    Cars or other things? I only ask because these are two completely different ballgames. I'll buy parts or other things there but only after doing enough research to find that it's the only place I could find the item and that I like the price/shipping costs but I'd never even consider puchasing or selling a car on eBay. No more than I'd walk through a crime infested area to get to a grocery store.

    I have only sold one vehicle on eBay - a hot 510 - and have never bought a vehicle on eBay.

    Honestly, the experience of selling a vehicle on eBay was a mixed bag. There was a lot of interest in the car, and the price ended up at a level that I was comfortable with. Then the winning bidder flaked. "Oh, I just found out that I am really sick, the doctor thinks it's a bad idea for me to take on any projects", etc. You know, the typical BS.

    I relisted and the sale went almost as high as the first auction, buyer came through, etc. So the relist was fine. But the stress associated with the first auction left a bad taste in my mouth.

    So I'm not afraid of selling a car (or of buying one, as long as someone I trust checks it out first), but you have to know the risks going in. Member bkelly's experience is not unusual at all, unfortunately......
    .


    1971 Datsun 240Z
    HLS30-30806
    Asheville, North Carolina
    IZCC #14802



  24. #24
    Registered User MEZZZ's Avatar
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    I have been buying and selling on Ebay since 1999. For the most part, it is a GREAT TOOL for finding things, cleaning stuff up for $$ that I had laying around unused, etc. I have had great experiences on there, over 260 transactions, got burned once many years ago for a $20.00 item. I have bought 2 cars and a Harley and sold my Harley on Ebay, all positive experiences...
    THEN.............I decided to buy my Z! BAD MOVE!!!
    THe buyer listed the car as an unmolested, unrestored '77 bought from the original owner. Runs great, no smoke, no leaks, NO RUST, just a great car...new carpet just installed, needs seats replaced and with a paint job, this could be a show car! I send 23 follow up emails, asking VERY SPECIFIC questions...get the answers I was looking for, called seller and we spoke, I bid on the car, hit the reserve of $4,000. Bought the car, sent a cashiers check 8-17, supposed to get the title via Fed Ex once seller got my check and then he was going to drop at shippers. Waited 3 weeks to get it to DAS, and here it is oct 31 and I STILL DONT HAVE THE TITLE!
    Seller claims he MAILED it regular mail on 9-07, must have got lost.
    I pick up the car and it is NOWHERE near what the seller claimed. Rust hole on the inner front fender behind the headlight bucket about 3 inches long, RUST on the frame rail, about a 2 inch HOLE, the ENTIRE underneath of the inner hatch is RUSTED AWAY! The radio, blower motor, e-brake didnt work. The front end feels wacky and the paint was AWFUL! Looked like someone used rattle cans on it and there was OVERSPRAY EVERYHWERE! All over the engine, hoses, belts, etc as the idiot sprayed right through the hood vents...all over the windshield, weatherstripping, wipers, even the console inside the car, silver paint everywhere!
    I called, no response, email, no response, finally I turn the guy over to Ebay Fraud Dept. They find out seller bought the car only 4 weeks prior on a BUY IT NOW of $1750! He then flipped it with a reserve of $4000 without so much as an oil change ( as the oil filter had paint all over it too)...he didnt even vacuum the damn carpet! Then they find out after much hassle that the guy only applied to have the title transfered into his name on 10-3....6 weeks AFTER GETTING MY MONEY!
    And the SAD THING IS, as long as the P.O.(S) gets me the title, EBAY WONT DO A DAMN THING! He got the title 2 days ago, and is sending it to the Fraud investigator only after attempting to hold it hostage in exchange for me not pressing forward with my threatened LAWSUIT!
    Basically, the guy LIED about EVERYTHING, in email, on the phone and SCAMMED me out of alot of $$. And the only recourse I have is to sue the idiot becasue Ebays Fraud protection is a sham in my opinion.
    At this point, the only thing I can do, is keep the car, fix the problems and love the car,,,or...sell it and take my loss and wash my hands of the whole mess.
    I have offered a compromise, send me the title and $1000 of my money back, he still makes $1250 and I feel some vindication, but the guy has the nerve to say I am an extortionist and now wont take my call or reply to email. I may sue the bastard just because I can.
    So, moral is, BE CAREFUL...it only takes one idiot on Ebay to screw you up bigtime!
    1977 280Z
    I'm great at taking my Z apart, putting it back together has been a whole different story.

  25. #25
    Parts Hero WingZr0's Avatar
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    Sue and make an example. !
    Speeding is fun,
    As long as you out run,
    The cops! ! !

    ~Z~ Seek Truth

    ウイングゼロ 競争 GangLoadOParts.com

  26. #26
    Z Addict yor5150's Avatar
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    Default I bought my '73 240Z on eBay

    In 2005 when I decided it was time to find a 240. I looked on Craigslist, eBay and every other place I could think of. There were a couple on CL that were promising - at first. Then I saw two on eBay that I wanted. One was asking too much or the bidding got to high, I forget which. I bought the one I did because the car was in the same state about 500 miles away. I figured I could get my deposit back if the car didn't match up to the description. From this thread it looks like I lucked out. I gave a $500 deposit and paid the rest in cash when I picked up the car. The owner picked me up at the airport. I inspected the car, paid the balance and drove the car to Northern Calif.

    I've learned a lot over the past couple of years. Knowing what I know now I would have just been patient and found one local but I'm still glad I bought the one I did.

    It's too bad there are so many jerks and scammers in the world.
    Owning a Z = Longtime Dream Come True...
    (Was) All Stock 1973 240Z eBay purchase in Oct 2005.
    HLS30-163770, 5 spd, # 918 Orange w/Black interior
    1971/72 ??? 240Z HLS30-15987 (donor car - R.I.P. July 09)
    1974 260Z Stock, Orange ext/Black Int. Oct 2007. Sold June 20, 2008
    1976 280Z - FEB 2011
    Card-carrying member of the RSPBRC (Rear Spindle Pin Bushing Replacement Club)

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